Clothing Culture Of Sui And Tang Dynasties

The gown gown was the main costume of the Tang Dynasty men. First in the palace, mostly for the ladies in the palace, and later into the folk, became the favorite dress of ordinary women. The masculinity of women's clothing was one of the manifestations of social openness in the Tang Dynasty. Women wore men's clothing at that time. Judging from the paintings at that time, women wore men's clothing, not all wore their heads, but also wore all kinds of bun and wore only round collar gowns.

The men's clothing in the Tang Dynasty mainly consisted of round collar, narrow sleeved robe, Hu clothing and so on. The above picture is a comb high bun or concentric bun, wearing a round collar gown, small pants, a skirt, a silk cloth, a half arm, a young maid with a shallow shoe, and a bird watching cicada picture at the prince Tang Zhanghuai's tomb in Qianxian County, Shaanxi province.

In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, women's short sleeves were made of small sleeves, tight skirts and high waist skirts. They were all above the waist, and some even tied under their armpits. Silk, also known as "painting silk", is usually made of a thin leno and printed with a pattern. The length is usually more than two meters. When it is used, it is covered on the shoulders and coiled between the arms. Walking and dancing from time to time, it is very beautiful.

　 Dress of Tang Dynasty dancers

The dance of the Tang Dynasty is divided into literature and martial arts. Wu dance is also known as "healthy dance". Wen dance is also known as "soft dance". The two styles are quite different. Hu dance mostly belongs to the former, while the traditional han dance is basically the latter. Two different dances decide two different costumes. On the whole, the dancers have many small sleeves for the sake of turning over. While soft dance costumes use large sleeves to show a gentle and stretching posture. The popularity of Hu dance in the Sui and Tang dynasties had a certain influence on the popularity of Zhenguan and Kaiyuan Hu clothes.

During the Southern Tang Dynasty, during the reign of Lord Li Yu, he wanted to promote the use of Han Xizai, a middle school secretary, but heard that Han Xizai did not hear politics, and he often gathered together with his close friends at home. So they sent the painter of the painting studio Gu Hong to spy and remember the scene of the guest dinner at the time, and then presented it to Li Yu. This painting is a picture of Han Xizai's banquet in the history of Chinese painting. The figures and costumes and living utensils depicted in the picture are more authentic, reflecting the situation in this period.

In addition to Han Xizai and another monk, the man wears his head and robes. The color of his robe is all green. It seems to have something to do with the system at that time. The two feet of the head are slightly drooping and may have "silk strings" in the middle. Therefore, they have some elasticity, which is a universal pattern in the late Tang and Five Dynasties. Han Xizai himself, wearing a gauze cap, wearing a wide sweater and practicing shoes with feet, is a homely casual suit. The women's clothing in the picture also accords with the actual situation at that time, mainly with short skirts and long skirts, and a round collar gown. The waist is usually tied with tapeplates, and the remaining parts hang down like two streamers. The silk was narrower than the Tang Dynasty, but the length increased significantly. The length was about three to four meters.

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　 Tang Dynasty official clothing

Costumes for the late Tang Dynasty

The crown style, which still plays an important role in the Tang and Song Dynasties, remains the same type of crown, which is the same type of crown, which is wrapped in the head of the ancient people, and then becomes the small crown that can only cover the bun, namely the flat hat, the cage crown and Diao Chan (the mink tail is inserted on the flat towel, the flat hat is covered with the cage crown), the warrior crown (on the top is wearing a male cocktail), the Tianguan crown and the Jin De Guan (Tong Tianguan is the highest crown cap, the same as the Jinxian crown structure, the difference is the front wall of the exhibition barrel) and so on. The crown cap of the Tang Dynasty has a head (from the beginning of a piece of Baotou cloth gradually into a fixed hat body frame and the perfect shape of the feet), and the Jinxian official (important for History).

In addition to wearing round collar and narrow sleeved gowns, officials in the Tang Dynasty still wore formal ceremonies on important occasions such as sacrificial ritual. The style of the dress is mostly inherited from the Sui Dynasty, worn by the head or the caged crown, wearing the big sleeves of the big pair of sleeves, the surrounding clothes, the jade belt, and so on.

Wrapped in a head and wearing a round collar gown is a popular dress for men in the Tang Dynasty. The head is also called the burden head, which is a first garment formed on the basis of the Han Wei ribbon. After the Tang Dynasty, people added a fixed ornament in the head, called the "towel". The shape of the towel varies from time to time. Besides the towel, there are many changes in the two corners of the head. In the late Tang and Five Dynasties, the original soft angle has changed to the hard angle of the left and right sides.

Officials of the Tang Dynasty mainly wore round sleeves and narrow sleeved robes. Their colors were stipulated: all the above officials were purple; five items were above, and six were green; eight products were green. Slightly changed after that. Another application of a horizontal bar under the robes is also a major feature of men's clothing at that time.