Paris 2012 Spring And Summer Fashion Week Special Report: Paris Under The Heat Wave

The embodiment of French women

9 at the end of the month

The new shoots, together with the new faces on T, make Paris energetic.

This new atmosphere is the embodiment of French characteristics. We should use "sweet" to describe it.

This is not the "witty" idea in the US or the "Chai Yi" in Japanese, because those words contain the meaning of attracting attention in a strange way.

On the contrary, 2012 spring and summer in Paris

The most shocking thing was Friday. Christian Dior just showed off his latest series, as if nothing had happened.

The current designer, Bill Gaytten, the right-hand man of John Galliano, has shown a fresh set of works that are not popular. However, it is speculated that he will stay at the end of the next season when the new designer takes office.

Although Marc Jacobs has been widely regarded as the new candidate for Dior designers, the group will probably make the final personnel decision by the end of this year, according to a person close to LVMH Arnault, chairman of Bernard Arnault.

Speaking of his design, interim Gaytten said: "in the new series, Dior will reinterpret the classic Bar Jacket dress."

This is a sensible choice because the fashion industry has been concerned about the post World War II era and the revival of women's rights in 1950s.

The designer's works are not as dramatic as Galliano, such as the exaggerated makeup and the crazy big hat.

On the contrary, this time there is a "simplified version of Dior" style. Designers integrate the popular elements into the classic outline of Dior and make them look less conventional.

The sleeves of the kimono style on the coat made Dior women get rid of the stereotyped tailoring style and the naturally expanding lightweight skirt.

The dress is very beautiful with round shoulder trim and geometric shapes.

There are tiny pieces of mosaic porcelain on the collar, scattered smaller pieces on the edge.

The clear blue and light brown folds of the water are cascaded from top to bottom, giving people a sense of lightness and lightness.

A few red and red lips of model match each other.

After seeing many exaggerated shows (especially the first two days of Mugler and Gareth Pugh), Dior makes people feel happier.

The designer has made new treatment for the chest line, which looks as if the chest is coming out of the garment.

This is very interesting. There is seldom such a time to show erotic art. It is also a brief expression of emotion in fashion.

A similar sentiment appeared in the Nina Ricci show.

Like Dior, Nina Ricci is also the embodiment of French women. Its design is full of erotic color but elegant.

In the latest series, designer Peter Copping seized this feeling.

Sitting in the first row, the audience took a deep breath. The model upper body wore only one bra, and the lower body matched the round skirt trimmed loose skirt. It completely broke the aesthetic principle dominated by the linear geometric design this quarter.

When explaining the inspiration, Copping said he found the printing of the 1930s artist Zina de Plagny for Nina Ricci, and reinterpreted it with the exquisite twenty-first Century technology.

From the design of clothing, you can find these feelings and details: bamboo woven hat and meticulous lace, exquisite embroidered skirt, and white cotton linen dress.

Through the skirt, you can vaguely see underwear.

The half perspective of the nude is an amazing mystery, and a sweater with a decorative detail is a wonderful combination.

I have to admit that after just a few seasons, Peter Copping inherited the style of Nina Ricci well.

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Designers are like waiters.

This season, the Balenciaga show is pulled out of the splendid hall of the Grand Hotel and moved back to the exhibition hall at the top floor of the brand headquarters.

After the majority of the audience came into play, several plastic bench benches collapsed suddenly due to overburden. Many fashion editors sitting in the front row fell to the ground, which is not a good start for the brand.

Just after these plastic benches were completely separated, people stood watching the show. Even Catherine Deneuve and Salma Hayek were no exception. They felt like churches in church.

Despite the embarrassment, the dissatisfaction of the guests immediately disappeared at the beginning of the show.

In the end, the whole audience applauded for this wonderful show: in Paris, there were only a few designers such as Nicolas Ghesquiere.

Overall, this show has been the most dynamic in recent seasons.

The models wore new fancy heels, and the leather on their sides stretched like wings.

The wide shoulder box type jacket is made up of ruby yellow, pomegranate red and quartz white. The stitching part is made of silk material. It looks light and pparent.

Ghesquiere uses loose, loose silk stripes and silk shorts as a combination.

In this season, he no longer focuses on the tailoring design of the future. Most of the fabrics are made of silk and cotton, but they have novelty appearance like synthetic fabrics.

The designer also adds embroidery to his clothes, which looks a bit like Turkey's exotic style.

The dark blue jeans with unique personality are black on the back, front knitted fabric pants, and khaki cloth on the back.

There are, of course, some hard details, such as adding a patch like pocket on trousers or shirts, or a white cotton plaid sleeve shirt like a parachute or a Balenciaga classic fisherman's blouse that has been reinterpreted.

They will definitely become popular single products in the summer of 2012.

Over the past season, Ghesquiere has added motion elements to the design, so super short pants are not a big surprise. What people are more interested in is how he combines the history of Balenciaga with contemporary fashion.

For example, a classic printed T-shirt like a church colored glass, or a black leather that spliced in the zipper part of the gold dress. The religious print is inspired by a 60s scarf, and the large size sun hat is the best explanation for the advanced customary golden age.

At the end of the show, the designer showed us a series of black and white prints.

These evening dress models have the flavor of kimono and are combined with khaki color ribbons.

Looking at this week's fashion week, you can hardly find a similar design.

In the background, Ghesquiere said, "it's like a labyrinth. I want to add more inlays to the design, use some valuable wood and metal, and some lively geometric patterns."

Although the length of the dress to the shins is not as strong as that of the past, Ghesquiere always has the means to make them look very fashionable.

A good designer must be like a caring waiter who always serves the guests when they need them and then leaves quietly.

Cristobal Balenciaga said at the end of its career that fashion is a tragedy.

That sounds sad.

But if he knows Hussein Chalayan, maybe he can enjoy the humor of the world.

Not to mention, few people think Chalayan is a humorous person.

He was inspired by the shrubs in the garden and designed for his costume.

But in this dazzling fashion show on Friday, he acted as a comic actor as a supporting actor from a designer to a waiter who poured champagne for the models.

On stage T, the choir began to sing.

All the clothes were wonderful. Chalayan once again painlessly explained his unique style to the public.

Oddly enough, models have a miniature camera at the bottom of each cup, capturing the charming movements of models using pink lips to sip champagne.

As in the past, Chalayan always makes fashion fashionable and interesting.

Young man knows that fashion today needs wisdom and simplicity.

He said: "even in the design of the subtle, I also want to be careful."

When the crowd ended up congratulating him, he tied up his apron.

The clothes he designs are simply unbelievable.

A symmetrical white trousers suit is opened on the back, and the pparent gauze piece is drifting down from the shoulders to the lower hem.

The three piece sleeves with sleeveless openings and sleeveless sleeves are decorated with colorful fruit juices and cotton short skirt.

There are surprises everywhere: the white summer dress embroidered with black roses, the hairy prints of horses and flowers, and the futuristic shorts that reflect the silver light.

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Choose escape

When the temperature climbed further to 32 degrees Celsius, the tent of durle park became a human steamer instantly.

In the half hour waiting for the opening of Lanvin, the photographers gathered at the end of the T stage have burst out many boos. The waiter is busy delivering champagne to the late guests, but champagne does not quench thirst.

Finally, the lights went out, and a woman's silhouette appeared at the end of the stage. She was wearing a black shoulder padded dress.

Designer Alber Elbaz has summoned up some kind of evil force with one such dress. "Angel in hell" is the theme of this series.

In the background, Elbaz said he had an odd dream before designing this series, and he dreamed of a woman with wings.

So he tried to show his wings in the form of shoulder pads, but not the shoulder pads of the 80s of last century. Elbaz said he had no interest in repeating the power suits of that era.

The new Lanvin woman hangs the snake on her body. The snake can be printed on the trouser legs or the embroidered embroidery on the gauze skirt.

Of course, every Lanvin series will not be single sided, this time is no exception.

The latter half of the conference showed many pparent and plucent colored Chiffon skirts, which were as light as second layers of skin.

Nevertheless, when Elbaz had finished the curtain call, everyone scrambled to get out of the steamer. No one would like to go back and look at those wonderful skirts.

This also reflects the escaping sentiment of some designers this quarter.

Summer seems to be over, and the addiction to vacation has come up again.

In Ann Demeulemeester, the whole show was held on the T platform covered with sand, while the designer claimed that she had never been to the desert.

"All of these come from the reverie of my brain."

She said.

The elongated black jacket contrasts sharply with the pparent chiffon in the air. The more neutral tone becomes the pink of sunrise and sunset, as if it were an oasis in the desert.

The big hat of black leather is the key to the whole shape. The hat is loose and messy.

The theme of the whole series, as usual, is a perfect combination of masculine masculinity and femininity. Like those former adventurous female travelers, men must wear men's clothing because it is more free and convenient.

Do not belittle these black long sleeves with long legged jacket and wide leg trousers. The details are delicate and delicate. Sewing techniques are like sewing sheets for camping, lapel or lines with sequins, which look like crystal sweat.

The French native genius Roland Mouret also made an interesting decision in the new spring summer series.

"The inspiration came from Greece."

He said, "when the government can't give you assurance and support, you will naturally return to seek true beauty."

Mouret talks about a phenomenon in Europe that is the decline of pastoral spirit.

He wanted to design a series to show the minimalist style of summer.

So, what is the real Greek?

Changing colors are like the sparkling waves in the sunlight, which remind people of the azure blue of Aegean Sea.

The bottom is the design of the lucky eye, and the black shoulder badge may also have a hint of military uniform.

This series of excellent workmanship shows the inherent French temperament of the brand.

The harsh and elaborate cut highlights the graceful figure of the model, and no pencil skirt on the side seam can be seen tightly on the body of the model's graceful curve.

A summer long dress with a cross sling or a 40s style robe makes the designer's style inject new elements.

Is this Greece? Maybe.

But the show seems to be the eternal summer in Provence, and the most beautiful girl in the countryside.

Or, as Mouret said in Greek, "this is the Utopia of people's heart."

Returning to innocence is another form of escape.

Viktor & Rolf have always been interested in dolls. Their most famous creations are related to dolls. They used a layer of cloth to dress up the models as Russian dolls at the press conference.

This season, dolls return to T.

The models wore A dresses with chiffon ribbons and came out of a huge pink folds. The pop duet Brigitte, wearing the giant skirt, was performing on the high platform above T.

For Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, the design concept of large size and straight line is no longer new.

But these geometric printing and bright coloured clothes are modern.

It is also a trend to design mesh on the circular shoulder trimmed Satin jacket.

If designers still think large size clothing with large edges is still popular, they must have never been to American Girl department store.

There, the little girls dreamed of putting on the lovely clothes of the lifelike Bobbi dolls.

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Searching for inspiration from the ocean

In the early morning of October 4th, when the sun was not strong enough, people rushed to The Grand Palace to see Chanel before 10.

Every season, Chanel's performance will not be disappointing, especially this time.

When you walk through a short staircase to the entrance, it is a spectacular snow white.

Yes, Karl Lagerfeld built The Grand Palace into a pure white seabed palace.

In the seabed scenes full of pebbles, giant rays and corals, the female singer Florence Welch is caught in a giant clam shell, singing a "What the water gave me".

It's like a dream, but it's lifelike.

At the scene, Lagerfeld was in high spirits and spoke eloquent about the design. "We have everything about the sea, but no mermaid!"

The theme of the whole show is distinct. The first appearance is Lagerfeld's new round shoulder twill soft suit.

An ivory white or black wool skirt or a slim dress with an open border jacket.

You can't see Chanel's weaving or chain elements.

The edge of the jacket is embroidered with beads, and the dress matching inside is echoed by the same ingenious design.

Jacket and tie tie is very fashionable, mostly printed chiffon fabric.

The other jacket has an open design on the back, a cool black motorcycle jacket and short hot pants.

Lagerfeld uses a lot of reflective hard fabrics with future sense, adding glass fiber and other materials. It shows that he is keen to improve the quality of clothes and make them more light and comfortable.

The model's feet are wearing silver white leather or white bottom black side bottomed boots.

The overall style is soft and fresh, with short design and round shoulder design. It presents a romantic dynamic beauty.

After entering the second half of the fashion week, the three designers will go deep into the ocean with inspiration inspiration. Can we interpret it as a return to romanticism? Anyway, it's good news for the audience - nothing is cooler than water.

Last spring and summer, Givenchy's designer Riccardo Tisci introduced a series of Jersey with hardness and flexibility.

But this season, they are full of wild customs and they are no longer popular.

This may be one of the reasons why Tisci chose to return to elegant fashion.

After becoming a good friend with Lagerfeld, Tisci's design direction is also close to the former: Lagerfeld expresses the gentle side of the sea while Tisci explores the sexy side.

In fact, Tisci did not rely too much on ocean elements and did not exaggerate the romantic atmosphere of waves.

Shark skin, stingray fish skin and eel skin are all the fabrics that he wears. Compared to these, what deserves our attention is how to integrate neutral tone and self-confidence.

The opening dress and the bodice jacket are like tight diving suits. Most of them are cut by curve, and the waist is tied with ribbons or other fabrics.

Tisci wrinkles the front edges of jackets and blouses and designs a dynamic style.

Also worthy of note are olive green short skirts and sea wolf leopard spotted Polo shirts.

Models wear high heeled shoes with shark fin shaped shapes on the T platform.

Those sexy short, shinky Pink mini skirts make the legs of the model move around.

Wearing it on Giselle B u nchen or Natalia Vodianova is absolutely overwhelming, but for ordinary women, it is a big challenge for the body.

The complex process of clothing and the designer's attention to the evening dress make the whole series look closer to the advanced custom rather than the ordinary garment.

From the looming sea bottom creatures in the fold waves and the coral polyps on the surface, Sarah Burton began a new creation period on the basis of Alexander McQueen.

Like the above two, this season, she also tried to salvage the inspiration in the ocean.

The third series of Burton is the key to her design career.

After McQueen died early, she filled the vacancy of the brand designer. The wedding dress of the royal wedding in April made her succeed in everyone's attention.

McQueen, who has wild and uninhibited imagination, has been highly praised at the show in Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Since then, Burton needs to prove that she can make better clothes than the Duchess designed for Cambridge.

Finally, the design ability of Burton was affirmed, because her works had distinct themes and high quality.

The most important thing is the feminization style in her design.

Apart from a little bit of anger leaked from the model with a black skirt and a mask, the show is no longer the masochistic style of the pre McQueen period, full of shackles, sling and curved shoes.

In the spring of 2010, the last show of McQueen was modeled on the legend of Platon's Atlantis. Compared with that, Burton may be on the low side, but her designs are also very colorful.

She loosely made her slender suit and dress, leaving only a few golden modifications on the edges.

Although the number of accessories on the clothes is amazing, there is no unnatural feeling.

These ornaments make the short skirts that are carefully designed and rippled appear more harmonious.

The key to the whole show - accessories have been shown to the extreme.

The models were made of corn tassel, decorated with lace and no cap, and Pearl Satin as a hand decoration, like a mermaid's glove.

In this series, hard lace has played an unprecedented role.

Other characteristic ornaments include Creek like folds, shiny barnacle shells and pearls in the chiffon.

The soft color, especially the pink before dawn, looks like the inside of the shell.

These clothes and accessories are so fresh that they are strongly contrasted with the stalactite like laser light.

In addition to the rich imagination, Burton can not be underestimated.

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French sweet

In this season, there are two men's favorite shows in Stella McCartney's show: sex and sports! If you combine them, it's a dynamic and charming series of women.

There are many mesh designs in this series of clothing, even more than on the tennis net.

These lines strung them together and made all kinds of light and compact dresses.

"Relax and have fun.

Summer is so short, you have to enjoy it. "

McCartney holds her 9 month old daughter and gives it to the models.

Her series is often a true portrayal of her own.

Therefore, the last season's eye-catching loose maternity dress has been eliminated, instead of these tight shears and even half shaded skirts that were once popular in Hollywood.

After careful consideration, the new 2012 spring summer series is simple and fashionable.

Elastic fabric with mesh or coarse lace elements, knitted sweater and casual trousers, dense circular Printed Dress and handbag.

But in the final analysis, the whole show is dominated by sports style. The design of the mesh on clothing is just like the tennis racket, and the curve cutting also embodies the sexy side.

Walking into the Louis Vuitton show, you seem to be in the gorgeous dream of the merry go round.

When the models walked out of the roundabout route, the audience began to debate whether this was the last show of Jacobs in Vuitton.

In the background, Jacobs gives Kate Moss a big hug.

Wearing a short white lace skirt with feathers, Moss ended the gorgeous fashion show.

In the face of such questions as "these elegant and charming skirts are not a sign of the design style after you take over Dior", the designers avoided it.

Jacobs said, "this show is really beautiful!" he is right.

Just the lace collar decorated with white lace marks the difference between the show and the costumes of the strange maid of last season and the beautiful costumes of the 2012 spring and summer.

When models open these umbrellas, which are the most luxurious in the world, with pparent LV logo, it is clear that Jacobs is pformed from sexy to sweet.

There are different styles of England embroidery on the dress, some with Daisy prints, white, pink, duck egg blue and light yellow.

The day suit is a waist waist short jacket, or an irregular cut lace shirt, with a lattice mesh handbag, emphasizing the beautiful summer amorous feelings.

Little head ornaments add a fairer beauty.

Although this show is not innovative, it is extremely elegant.

If Dior really intends to recruit Jacobs, this is the sweetest and clearest response to the brand.

In the 4 week, sweet and overflowing fashion week, the Miuccia Prada Gothic red eye makeup is like a poison that gives people a fresh look.

"This show has the style of Paris Spring Department Store celebration, full of spring breath and feminine tenderness, but it is very important."

Designer Miuccia Prada said on the last day of fashion week.

The flowers and lace designed in this series are very lovely, but they are rendered with cruel colors.

Who can design the parquet and the pail bag is not naive at all? Just ask Ms. Prada.

The yellowish brown eye make-up, decorated with velvet sequins, is what France calls "the flower of evil". All of these reveal the fallen desire in Baudelaire's poetry.

In the last few seasons, Miu Miu's bird printing was very popular, and it was a great inspiration to the new series. The fashion's application to the elements of nature was finally reflected in the new bud printing.

The sprouting of new sprouts began to rapidly spread over T.

The show of black grey tonal dress, A skirt and cloak jacket began this show.

Then the seemingly lacy lace coat appeared.

Sprout prints first appeared on the high shank boots, and then appeared on the handbags.

In the end, you will find these lovely new shoots from the print of lace.