Clothing Culture Of The Old Beijing Manchu Dress Custom

The custom of dress and hairdressing is an important symbol of the material and spiritual life of a nation.

The pursuit of beauty is like that of everyone.

Manchu clothing and hairstyle directly inherited the basic customs of the female human beings, and blended some forms of Han nationality and Mongolian costume.

Its gowns, gowns, shoes, hats and braids are more innovative and colorful.

The Manchu's unique costumes are robes, gowns, vests and boots.

The robes are worn by men and women, old and young, rich and poor, and high and low alike.

Its basic styles are round collar, narrow sleeves, Zuo Ren, four sides slit, buttons and girdle.

Men's robes are long enough to hem their feet, so they are called "arrow clothing".

On the narrow sleeves of early men's robes, there were also sleeves, shaped like horseshoe, called "arrow sleeves" or "horseshoe sleeves".

After entering the customs, the "sleeve sleeves" of the Manchu robe sleeves are only used for "Duff sleeves" and salute.

Usually the robes are often called gowns, and the robes worn out are called "Robe".

Robes vary from season to season with skin, cotton, single, clip and yarn.

The robes of Manchu aristocrats are valued as yellow, the same as the dress system of the Han nationality. The cheongsam of Manchu women is not only accepted by the people of all nationalities in China, but also promoted to the whole world.

A short coat wrapped around a robe is called a gown.

Officials wear long sleeves over their knees, sleeves over their elbows, and buckles that are buckled.

The imperial clan opens four slits, the general bureaucrat scholar opens the double slits.

The official coat has a "complement" which indicates a grade, while a gown without a supplement is often called a "gown".

In general, the long gown is only waist, sleeves and elbows. Guchi Hisaihiroshio, also known as "mandarin jacket", was originally used only for soldiers to wear, but later evolved into a casual dress.

The shapes of the Chinese Liriodendron are also different from those of the waist, the big ones and the short ones.

Most of them are gowns and big gowns. They are often used as regular clothes, but lack of lapel Liriodendron.

Most of these liriodenes are short sleeves, cuffs are flat and broad.

Wearing a gown and wearing a jacket is the main dress of Manchu in Qing Dynasty.

Waistcoat is also called sleeveless jacket. It is a sleeveless short coat.

It developed from the "half arm" suit of ancient Han people, and it was a casual dress.

The waistcoat is also distinguished from the big, the opposite and the short ones. It is usually worn inside, with a narrow style and a vest worn in the late Qing Dynasty.

Now this vest is also accepted by the people of all ethnic groups, like cheongsam, which has become the favorite clothing of the Chinese nation.

The Manchu costume also had a "collar garment" with a stiff collar in the robe. The aristocrat wore a shorter pair of gowns, a pair of buttons, a round neckline, and a flat sleeve end cover.

In addition, there are also trouser legs, no waist trousers, no crotch, two trouser legs separately separated, and belts or buttons to wear the waist.

The Manchu people used to wear trousers with long waist, wide crotch and fat trouser legs.

The waist of the trousers is broad and wide.

Trouser legs are also pleat; they should also fold their legs and tie their legs.

This dress was not abolished until 60s of this century.

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The most distinctive feature of Manchu shoes is "Jiao".

It is made from animal skin or cattle skin, with front, flat, round and mouth sides.

Pucna pleats on the front face, and 6 small ears on both sides.

The grass is made of processed grass and is light, strong and warm on the feet.

Ordinary people wear boots and civilians are not allowed to wear them.

Later, influenced by the Han nationality, they gradually wore the cloth, but the bottom was thick, and the toe of the shoe was embroidered with cloud curls, which highlighted the sole of the shoe.

The shoe face has one or two pieces (single beam and double beams), and today it is called "practice shoes".

In the spring and summer season, farmers used to wear "melon to board" in the spring and summer season. They used 2 centimeters of soft and thick planks, slightly larger than their feet. They wore big eyes and two toes to wear their eyes. They wore a pair of rope around their feet. They were hemp rope, higher than their feet, so that they could replace their feet.

The Manchu hat is divided into a hat and a cap.

Hat is commonly known as "big hat", worn by gentry, warm hat in winter, summer hat, and easy with solar terms.

The cap is called "small hat", which is made of six petals and commonly used as a "leather cap" for the rich.

Civilians wear felt hat.

Today, the hat has been accepted by the people of all ethnic groups, which has changed the form of the hat.

Hang on.

Manchu men and women wear them.

Where there is a robe, there is a belt.

The belt is golden yellow, and the red is blue.

There are knives, spoon bags, fire chain bags, handkerchiefs, and so on.

Manchu women's clothing is generally the same as men's.

There are also official clothes and casual clothes.

Official uniform is divided into robes, gowns, cloak and liners.

The robes are usually narrow and long, with long gowns, such as long gowns, white sleeves and embroidered sleeves, and sleeves.

All the bride and young women's coat is in large red; in middle age is lotus root color; those with daughter-in-law are dark purple; old age is dark blue.

Red and lotus root are all large lace, purple and blue are just the right ones.

The shirt is light colored.

Unmarried women do not wear gowns or gowns, wear cloak and liners, but do not roll collar and wrap around their neck or handkerchiefs.

In summer, there is no collar in a casual dress and a handkerchief around it.

Manchu women do not have enough bad habits, they are all natural feet. Therefore, there is a saying that Manchu "men and women have a pair of shoes".

The shoes have boots, flat bottomed shoes and the "flower pot bottom" shoes worn by court aristocratic women, that is, the middle of the sole is shoes with a front flat bottom and a log bottom with a height of 3 inches.

Civilian women mainly wear flat bottomed cloth shoes. They have many feet in summer.

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Hair accessories.

Manchu hairstyles and hair accessories are mostly inherited from the Jin Dynasty.

Men half shaved and half left, plaited and plaited, decorated with pearls, gemstones, gold and silver pendants, and ordinary people only braid the rope.

There are many changes in women's hair styles. They also shave off the surrounding hair, leaving behind their hair and plait them into plaits.

After birth, the hair is contracted.

In the early Qing Dynasty, the adult women were popular in the "two heads" (or "shelf heads" and "fork heads"), with high bun as the example.

After the KangQian, due to the influence of Han's "Ruyi", the word "one word" was popular.

The female custom redecorating the head, not only has beautiful hair, but also wears various jewelry such as hairpin, Chiron and so on, especially the flower arranging decoration.

Aristocratic women wear "Dun Zi" in their formal dress, with pendants and shruds, shoulders and shoulders.

The nine slices of the ornament are called "full sky", and the five piece is called "semi - Dian", similar to the Han nationality's Phoenix crown, so it is also called "Feng Dian".

In the late Qing Dynasty, aristocratic women were popular in the late Qing Dynasty.

The earrings are also highly valued by Manchu women. They wear their ears and eyes when they are young, and wear gold tongs or copper tongs after adulthood or marriage.

Hairtail swallowtail. In the early Qing Dynasty, the ordinary flag female and the Han nationality woman imitated the Manchu lady's hair ornaments. They used the high bun as the comer. When they were combing, they would split the two sides in the rear part of the head, and comb two long bun to the left and right side, and the two bun was about one foot wide, commonly known as "fork head" (also known as "two head" or "handle head").

When making a forked head, it also hangs a strand of hair on the back of the head, and the lower ends form two sharp corners, forming a swallow tail shape, the name is "swallow tail".

Wu Shizan's palace poems depicted this hairstyle: "the clouds of the bun plate are made up of two Qi, and pearlescent Chai shadow protects the white."

The city is no more than the ruler, and the fork is divided into the swallow tail.

These palace words depict the unique hairstyle of Manchu women.

Hairstyle -- League head.

"League head", also called flag temple, is a common hairstyle in the common people.

After entering the middle age, Manchu women no longer "head wings", and the "comb" of the comb is shaped like a pattern of steamed bread, but the "head" is different from the "common knot" of the middle aged women.

There are different ways to comb the different positions.

The head of the group is directly above the top, and the hair is tied into a vertical round or flat high bun on the top of the head. Some also leave "swallow tail" and wear silver, copper and flat jewelry in the hair.

Some elderly women, because of their less hair, form a spiral scroll at the top of their heads, which is simple and convenient, and can be seen in the rural areas where Manchu people live in recent years.

There is also a kind of hairstyle called "water hyacinth", commonly known as "water temples".

That is to say, pick up the weak hair on the temples and use the soap water to form a hook like the ear root.