Brand Clothing Prices Rose &Nbsp; "Small Tailor" Business Hot.

They are tailors, sewing machines, and employ two or three odd jobs, all of them. Exquisite They are very popular in the moment, and many people come here to find clothes made by the legendary tailor.

Under the double-layer attack of garment industrialization and advanced garment customization, the small tailor was once neglected. They were very confused, some of them changed their clothes and sold some clothes, others started the retail business of clothing. Nowadays, the high price of clothing has made the urban people look for tailors to make clothes again. The market has brought the Spring Festival to the small tailors.

The premise of the tailor's business is that the market is too expensive.

"The price has gone up, and the winter clothes in the shopping mall have already been a bit impossible to buy. The coat was basically around three thousand yuan last year, and it has risen to four thousand or five thousand yuan this year. It is said that the cost of labor increased this year, and the price of cotton wool has also been raised, but it will not increase the price of an overcoat by one thousand or two thousand yuan. In the face of the rising prices of clothing prices in the market, Chen Linli can no longer sit still. She plans to work with her colleagues to make a new clothing for the new year.

Chen Linli's philosophy of clothing can not be separated from custom-made. "Two or three jackets and 1/3 of the wardrobe and almost all trousers are made in winter." This custom-made person has also affected friends and relatives around her. In recent years, she has introduced more than 10 friends to custom shops, and half of them have become fans of custom shops like her. Every time she went there, she felt that the tailor's business was better than before.

January 2nd is the second day of the new year's holiday, but Liu Aiwen, the owner of the clothing custom shop in Zhongshan North Road, is not busy. Instead, he becomes more busy. At three p.m., the reporter walked into the custom shop and saw that the shop was crowded with guests who had custom-made and tailored clothes. The boss said, "throughout the winter, the winter business of the small shop is busy without stopping. After a busy week, it will not take orders. Now it will take a week to get the clothes."

"My shop has been open for more than ten years, but business has gradually faded since 2000, but the number of customers tailored this winter is increasing. The income in December is 2 times higher than that at this time last year." Looking at the tailor shop owner beside Lianhua Supermarket in Jiangmen, he told the reporter cheerfully that not only his home, but also the business of some brothers shops were becoming more prosperous, which made him find the tailor's "return" feeling.

The women's clothing industry in Hangzhou is well-developed, and the number of craftsmanship craftsmanship Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon in the clothing custom industry is quite large. Today, with the rising price of clothing in the market, they have ushered in more young and fashionable guests and ushered in a new career development period.

Cai Xiaoying, a girl from Qiandao Lake, sells clothes in Fengjie Road textile market, but she always meets with special requests every day -- those who make clothes. "Some people saw that the clothes hung in the shop were of good style and exquisite workmanship. They always asked me if I could make them." In December, she received dozens of custom-made clothes. In order to show the tailor's exquisite workmanship, she took out two "identical" coats from the dressing room, and the new one was also dust-proof plastic bags.

Cai Xiaoying said, this is an old customer who bought the coat bought from Hongkong more than 10 years ago, and let the tailor imitate it. "Customers said that the clothes they bought were more than 10 thousand yuan in the year, but the new coat even cost more than 2000 yuan even for fabric. The cost performance is very high. "

Nowadays, skilled tailors are getting more and more popular. Reporters understand that the cost of finding a master is much lower than that. Thousands of dollars in a cashmere coat in the market, if the market is customized, with the best fabric, more than one thousand yuan can be done. Take the old style to make a new one, and bring the famous brand to imitate it. It has become the fashionable girl's dress code now.

In the custom shop, you will see an interesting picture. The white haired old man will measure the size for you. The 20 year old young man is ironing clothes. You see that the tools used by the tailors are scissors and tape, sewing machines and electric iron. But the tailor is no longer a traditional tailor, but trained to become a "transformation" tailor who can keep up with the trend of the times, design and innovate. The standard of tailoring is in the eyes of consumers, those who are good at copying and not losing shape, give them a picture of a famous brand clothing or a finished garment, and they will be able to hand over their tailored garments in a week.

Although the custom clothes are their jobs, the young generation tailors are different from their predecessors in their thinking and enthusiasm for their work. Apart from their hands and hands, the young people also learned to make computer plate making, three-dimensional cutting and new fashion cutting technology, which made the tailor's old profession new.

Computer cutting and traditional handicrafts add to fashion.

The original tailoring business is the master with an apprentice, tailoring by hand to make templates, low efficiency and low accuracy. Now the tailor uses modern tools to make templates, and completes four processes of design, plate making, placement and typesetting through computer operation of clothing CAD software. It turns out that a garment needs two workers to work in two days after these processes. Now it takes only one day for a person to finish the work. Nowadays, some tailoring softwares originally applied to enterprise plate making have begun to play a big role in the small tailor shop.

Chen Huamei, director of Hangzhou textile market, revealed that many small tailors in the market have used the computer software system used by the enterprise's plate making engineers, cutting clothes with software systems, greatly improving the work efficiency, and improving the style and size. Even in the face of a picture in a fashion magazine, you can cut and make clothes.

Although the technology has improved, how are the quality of young tailors in Hangzhou market? Can their skills withstand consumers' fastidious?

It is understood that today, the young master of Hangzhou tailor shop, most of them have not received systematic theoretical study, but slowly groped out on their own. They have worked as a sewing worker for three years, followed by a one or two year apprentice with a master, even if they have become a teacher. In the eyes of the clothing industry, these small tailors have to learn more about professional knowledge so as to be worthy of the title "artist on cloth".

Insiders say that at present, young tailors who are professionally trained, professionally technical titles and experienced in Hangzhou are rare. This team generally has a low educational background. In the eyes of professionals, a good tailor should be a graduate of fashion design, art, computer and other related majors. They can master the basic plate making process, be familiar with the characteristics of all kinds of clothing fabrics, have basic skills in garment drawing, understand the basic design intentions of fashion designers, and be familiar with the commonly used computer clothing design and drawing software. Of course, if you want to become a leader in tailoring, you still need to have a certain degree of cultural accomplishment and high artistic accomplishment. You should always pay attention to fashion and the popularity of the international market. trend 。

Wu Xiaoyun, Secretary General of Hangzhou clothing association, thinks it is good. Tailor First of all, he is a good plate maker. He is engaged in the design of garment structure, with high technology content, and the contribution of the plate maker to the garment is no less than that of the fashion designer. This is also the main reason why the fashion designer in the developed countries of the fashion industry is a good tailor.

"Tailoring is between art and technology, and how to wear beautiful clothes on the design to rely on the tailors who have skilled plate making techniques. In the tailor's shop, the apprenticeship is made for at least five years, and the chief tailor who wants to be the only one who needs to do so needs more than half a lifetime to practice. Wu Xiaoyun said. {page_break}

Simply described, tailoring is an art from stereo to plane, and then to three-dimensional. Through several measurements, an old tailor must grasp the characteristics of the customer with a sharp eye. In the process of making a plate, let the two-dimensional cloth "remember" the curve "data" of every part of his body. He can skillfully modify the defects of the wearer: the uneven shoulders are no longer obvious, the thick arms and the waist of the buckets can also show curves.

Apart from being beautiful, a good tailor's clothes are comfortable to wear. He knows the structure of human body and the principle of clothing. Secretary Wu believes that a tailor may be able to imitate a famous brand fashion, but to make the wearer comfortable, long wearing and no distortion, and the fashionable figure and spirit in the album are all rare. Good clothes don't work just to fit them, but they never change. "

She disclosed that in order to develop more excellent clothing plate making divisions, Hangzhou pioneered the technical title evaluation system of the plate making masters in the whole country, and the title evaluation was carried out in the way of evaluation and combination. At present, a group of garment plate making masters have obtained a junior title. Hangzhou has taken the lead in the field of clothing technology support.

Hangzhou garment making industry needs to reinvigorate

From the late 90s to the late 90s, the tailoring industry began to face the situation of being caught in the dark. On the one hand, a large number of industrialized fashions are catching up with the market. On the one hand, there are many advanced clothing and custom shops. The cheap fashion on the assembly line has attracted the low end customers in the industrial chain, and the advanced custom shop has taken away the high-end customers accumulated by the small tailor shop for many years.

At one time, many people worried that the tailoring shop would disappear in Hangzhou? Where is the way to customize small shops?

The Hangzhou textile market beside the north market of Feng Qi road was once the most brilliant fabric market in Hangzhou city. In the mid 90s of last century, there were a group of the best tailors in Hangzhou. Many tailors have been making clothes for customers in the market since 1996, and become scissors in the circle. But later, because of market decoration and other reasons, some tailors left the textile market and set up a new gateway in some places. Some people started the fabric business. Now the textile market is a bit cold and cheerless.

For these small tailor shops with strong skills but not enough funds to package themselves, is there a market or institution leading the way to scale market operation?

To this end, Zhou Xiaolan, a women's clothing management committee of Wulin Road, analyzed that the large-scale development of small tailoring industry is still a blank market. At present, the industry is in a state of stragglers. Most of the practitioners are older and lack of market awareness. They still follow the very traditional practice. This state is hard to attract large numbers of young consumers into the tailoring shop, and it is difficult to form a resultant force to become a market phenomenon for consumers.

Xu Weirong, director of a fashion brand in Greater China, a tailor, said that Hangzhou tailors need to pay more attention to packaging and marketing if they maintain the same level of technology and service. Industrial upgrading and service upgrading are the direction of the times. In addition to the spontaneously formed cohesive force of tailoring industry, the government needs guidance and support.

How to guide the tailoring shop to become bigger and stronger, Chen Huamei, director of the textile market, revealed that because of the market decoration and other reasons, the textile market has lost a number of excellent tailors. After 2012, the market intends to re invite them back.

She said that since the opening of the market in 1996, the tailor's shop has been an important service item in the market. Now there are many new trends in the field of fashion consumption, and the small tailor has begun to enjoy it. This gives market managers the confidence to see the future of the market.

"There are more than 200 stalls on the first floor of the reformed market, plus the upstairs business space. The bright and spacious market should attract more good tailors." When it comes to future planning vision, Chen Huamei reveals a little mystery, saying only that the market will be well adjusted in the future.

It is understood that the cost of fashion customization is much higher than that of a few years ago, but compared with the same quality fashion market, it is still a lot of benefits. Nowadays, a top cashmere coat cost about 600 yuan, plus fabric costs, the total price is more than 1000 yuan, but a similar fabric fashion in the mall to sell thousands of dollars, such a large price difference so that many people have re started the idea of fashion customization.

"Finding a skilled tailor and making clothes is a pleasant experience. You don't have to worry about spending too much, and you don't have to worry about poor quality fabrics. The most important thing is that you can wear fashionable and fashionable clothes." Her view of dressing has changed herself and influenced her friends around her. Before the rising price of fashion, her custom-made clothing concept has been increasingly sought after, and has gradually formed a strong gas field, which has changed many friends' fashion values and values.

People who insist on garment customization think that the elegant quality and taste of clothes are not stacked up by brands. In the process of customization, you are almost a participant in the whole process. From the selection of fabric to the finalization of style, even the shape and color of buttons, the tailor will refer to your opinion. The interaction between consumers and tailors has given an ordinary fashion more wonderful.

Chen Linli's custom-made clothes usually start with the fabric of Qianjiang small commodity market, and the experience of going to the fabric with her finally let the reporter see how the fashion designers have succeeded.

"You can find the remnants of those foreign trade garment factories, and don't belittle them. They are all pieces of cloth, but they are all real good things. They are made of international brand overcoats. They are tens of thousands of yuan." Indeed, as she said, the cloth is very small, each cloth is one meter or two meters, but the weight of the fabric is very smooth and smooth. There are many varieties, including cashmere, velvet, suede and so on. The top cashmere is only 60 yuan per meter.

Selling cashmere in winter and selling silk in summer, because of the quality and low price of the small fabric, the market of Qianjiang zero cloth is boiling in the four seasons of the year. This noisy and noisy market has gathered many folk experts: fashion designers, Chaozhou people and Taobao DIY shopkeepers. They can read orderly from chaos, and find babies from rubbish.

In addition to folk fashions, tailors who pursue personalized fabrics will come in and out.

"A half a month ago, a more than 10 metre long wool jacquard fabric was imported from the foreign trade factory. The lattice color was very eye catching, and it was very much Chanel style. A middle-aged man bought all of the fabric. He said he had opened a clothing store in Taobao. This fashion fabric will be loved by netizens.