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    Costume Unearthed In Northern Mawangdui Reproduces National Integration

    2012/2/6 9:24:00 126

    The Fusion Of Northern Kingdom And Horse Dress


    Figure 1- appearance of grave Costume



    Figure 2- Brown Luo Yun Luo embroidery embroidered belly



    Fig. 3- purple land cloud, Jin Jin and cotton Robe


    In November 2011, including Jin Dynasty.

    Clothes & Accessories

    The 8 pieces of Jin Dynasty cultural relics were first exhibited at the Qunli branch of the Heilongjiang Provincial Museum. They came from the king's Tomb of the Jin Dynasty, known as "the northern Mawangdui".


    The city of A Cheng, Heilongjiang Province, is the site of the Jin Dynasty female Zhen Zhaoxing. The tomb of Qi State, which was excavated by Jin Yuan, is the only Tomb of the Nu Zhen noble.

    The tomb was a salvage archaeological excavation in 1988. There are many kinds of relics, and they are rich and beautiful.

    Clothing has a head, crown, robe, knee, boots and socks, etc., with all kinds of accessories and ivory, pearls,

    gold and silver

    In addition, the white and brown powder, agalwood and cattail were also unearthed.


    The tomb is a burial tomb for both husband and wife. The male and female tombs are all dressed in silk, men wear 8 layers and 17 clothes, and women wear 9 floors and 16 pieces. The clothing is well preserved and the material is quite complete (Figure 1).

    Silk fabrics include gold and silver thread, dark flower, silk and yarn, and so on. Weaving processes include Zhijin, India, gold, and so on.

    Especially the embroidery method, the needle is dexterous and changeable, there are more than 10 kinds of needles, stitches, trocars and embroidered embroidery. The patterns are dragon, Kui long, flying bird, and so on.

    The design of the costumes is gorgeous and the production process is exquisite. It fills the blanks of the costumes of Jin Dynasty.


    The early costumes of the Jin Dynasty were relatively simple. Most of them inherited the customs of the Khitan people in Liao Dynasty. According to the three North Korean League Council, "the real women are white, short and short, and the rich are decorated with jewellery, and the skin of the clothes is black, the marten, the fox and the raccoon. The poor are dressed in cattle, horses, sheep, pigs and snakes."

    A man's head wrapped in a soap towel, wearing a collar and robe, a waist belt and a leather boot.

    The color is monotonous, more environmental protection color, winter wear more white leather robes, and ice and snow into one, summer.

    Clothing

    More embroidered with Uighur goose and other animal and plant patterns.

    By 1153, hailing Wang moved to the city to absorb the characteristics of the costumes of the Song Dynasty, and adopted the Hanfu system at the ceremony.

    The public service is divided into three colors, five products are above purple, six or seven are eight colors, and eight are green.

    A hundred official uniform is usually made of collar and narrow sleeves.

    The chest or shoulder sleeve ornaments are decorated with gold patterns. Women's clothing is mainly made of skirts, mostly black purple, embroidered with whole flowers.

    According to the silk dragon pattern patterns unearthed from the tomb of Qi State, it is concluded that these costumes were roughly the seven years (1167) between Jae Hee's end (1148) and Jin Shi Zong Da Ding. According to the characteristics of the unearthed silk material, it was deduced that the silk produced in the song Dynasty was not difficult to see that its tomb owner's status was outstanding. At the same time, it also showed that silk fabrics had reached the highest peak of manufacturing technology in the song and Jin Dynasties.


    Brown Luo Yun Luo patch embroidered belly (Figure 2).

    The belly was known as "hoof belly" early in the northern and Southern Dynasties, and the five was called "hoof belly". In the Han Dynasty, it was also known as "belly holding". In the song and Jin Dynasties, it was called "belly belly", also known as "Li belly", and even in the Qing Dynasty, it still used the term "Li Du".


    This belly is worn on the waist of the big pants, and the belly is covered with the brown Roland to embroider the embroidered cloud dragon pattern as the fabric, lined with yellow silk, and the inner silk wadding.

    The whole belly is spliced with three pieces of banding fabric, three pieces are the same length, the lower slits are shorter, the sides and the bottom edges are 12 laces, and the right upper edge has 4 perforated holes, the width of the form is 114 to 116 centimeters, and the length is 50 to 56 centimeters.

    When wearing, it basically surrounds the human body for more than a week, from the chest to the crotch of the human body. The four pairs of lace can adjust the length of the belly to form the curvilinear shape of the human thorax, play the role of modern women's body shaping clothes, and also keep warm.


    After the belly was put up, the "Qi" ink was printed on the lower part of the frenulum. The owner of the tomb was once called "king of Qi". Therefore, the object was the clothing of the Qi government, and the ornamentation of the front and back was embroidered with the aid of embroidery. The yellow dragon was cut into three pieces of Ganoderma lucidum moire, a dragon plate was above the clouds, the cloud dragon was arranged in a wrong arrangement, the dragon body and the clouds were slightly red in color, and the needles were mainly embroidered by needles, with fine weaving and unique style.


    Purple cloud crane Jin Jin cotton robe (Figure 3).

    This dress is worn on the outermost layer of the female tomb. The fabric is purple silk and cloud gold brocade, lined with purple purple silk. The female gowns are cross, left and narrow sleeves. The length of the robe is 142, the collar height is 5.6, and the cuff width is 21 centimeters. The sleeve length reaches the position of the human palm's fingertip, which has the function of keeping warm and preventing dirt, and prevents the cold wind from invading in winter.


    The pattern is for two cranes to spread their wings, and the crane's beak is slightly drawn up.

    Flaky clouds

    It is composed of two pairs of flying cranes. Each two cranes are arranged in a group, and the upper and lower sides are arranged in a row. The front ends are arranged in 5 rows from top to bottom. The crane is flying in shape, the image is very vivid, and the clouds are also fluttering.

    The gorgeous gold added a few bright colors to the whole robe.


    The Jin Dynasty served as a "regular suit", which was also called the present public service.

    Public service is more than five items of officials wear purple, subdivided into narrow purple and Exhibition purple, etc., visible tomb owner status.


    Brown, green, all branches, plum, Jin, cotton and skirt (Figure 4). The skirt is a skirt worn by women in Liao and Jin Dynasties. The Zhijin pattern includes plum blossoms, buds, leaves and branches, and belongs to the whole branch flower.



    Fig. 4- brown, green, all branches, plum, Jin, cotton and skirt.


    The skirt is worn in the clothing of women's clothing, and the fabric is full branch plum Jin Jin, and inner silk wadding.

    The weave structure is plain weave, the waist waist is made of green silk, and the back of the skirt is made up of 17 pieces of skew cut fabric. There are hardly any joints on the surface of the dress, so we can see that the technique of stitching the flowers at the time is a must.

    "Jin Shi Wu Yu Zhi" records: "women's clothes, skirts, mostly black purple, embroidered flowers on the top, the whole body six fold product."

    The skirt is characterized by narrow and wide width, three pairs of fold in front, three pairs on the back, and 12 pieces in front and back. The hem is radiated to satisfy the lower limb movement.

    The waist is 56 centimeters high, the fabric is thicker, and it can be cotton wool.

    There are two kinds of plum blossom patterns on skirts. One is the pattern of three frontage plum blossoms and seven buds. The other is composed of two fronds, one side open plum blossom and seven buds.

    The two sides are arranged on top and bottom, with eleven rows of patterns on the left and right sides of the skirt, all branches upward, and the plum open downward, forming a continuous pattern.

    This dress is exquisitely woven, jacquard neat and beautifully patterned. This plum blossom is three flowers and seven buds.

    Plum blossom

    In full bloom.


    "Records of the clothes and clothes": "Queen's crown dress, flower crown", "Sheng Zi Yi", "Qing Luo table", "green silk linen", "golden red", Rotori, Kowloon, four Phoenix, one dragon ball in front, ten flowers in front and back, two flowers and plants, and 5 species of flowers, including peacocks, peacocks, cloud cranes, Wang Mei fairy team and floating petals. After that, there are golden cicada golden two beau temples. Flower crown (Figure 5), "golden history"

    According to the above description, the flower crown is a ceremonial crown costume of the queen of the Jin Dynasty. The queen, the princess and the lady can be dressed, but the details and accessories of the crown are very different. For example, the number of flowers on the crown is 9, 8, 7, 6, 5 and so on.



    Fig. 5- flower crown


    This flower crown is placed on the head of the female tomb, 14 centimeters across, and 17.5 centimeters in the inner edge of the crown. The surface of the crown is made of gold thread and Sheng Li, and the surface of the crown is made of soap and chrysanthemum. It consists of three layers of lotus leaf petals, 5 petals of each layer, and 17.5 petals of each petal.

    There is a blue and yellow butterfly butterfly flower belt on the lower part of the crown. There is a forehead in the crown and two weeks around the forehead. It is tied to the back of the head, and is stitched by a small rhombus pattern.

    After the crown, there are hollow ornaments and jade ornaments, which are used as accessories in the white jade, and are used as a nun to symbolizes auspicious peace and safety. After the crown, 8 knots of gold rings are placed on the left and right sides, and hollow gold rings are used as golden fields.

    weight

    Technology.


    The brown land duer, the golden silk and the golden cotton shield the knees (Fig. 6), "dialect": "the knee between the knees, the cotton between Jianghuai, and the knee from the customs."

    As the name suggests, this is a dress covering the thigh to the knees.



    Figure 6- brownfield plum leaf slip gold golden cotton covered knees


    The cottage knee is folded into a rectangular pad in the chest of the male robe.

    Fabric

    For Jin brocade, lined with yellow silk and inner silk spun silk, four pairs of frenes are attached to the left and right sides.

    The two pieces are the same length, one piece short, and the width 146.7 to 155.6 cm. The fabric is decorated with the double wings of Zhijin, and the width is six to Xiang Lu, and the width is about 62.4 to 63.2 centimeters. After covering the knees, the ends of the Luan Zhang are inconsistent. The front row of the upper row of the six rows of Xiang Luan head goes upwards, the rows are two rows of plum, the lower five rows are downward toward the bottom, the bottom row is cut, only the tail line is upward, the front piece is reduced to splice as far as possible, the back piece is spliced by three pieces of fabric, and the width of the knee is longer, which can cover the chest, waist, knee and back of the human body, which is both warm and cold proof. The knee is divided into three pieces.

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