Why Do 30 Local Costumes Wear "Waistcoat"?

In March, I met 35 friends and went shopping for spring clothes.

Two floor, Cui Wei shopping centre, Beijing

Obviously, it is "Chinese baby". Why do we need to have a foreign name?

Is the "waistcoat" equal to the high price?

Some people say that China's clothing market is like a "Besieged City". People outside want to come in, and the people inside want to go out.

Others say that

The reality is that there are few local enterprises that can break out of the encirclement and develop a world in foreign countries. Most of them join the international brands to get together and wear the "waistcoat" first, disguised as internationalized, in order to increase their personal status and earn money for Chinese consumers.

In China, there are two public standards that can measure the popularity of brands, namely, "China's well-known trademarks" and "China's famous brand products".

The latter stopped its selection in 2007, and expired in September this year. At present, there are 51 products in the clothing industry, and among them, there are about 30 names.

From the perspective of the entire apparel industry, according to Li Kailuo, an expert in fashion industry economics, regardless of men's clothing, the names of foreign flavor enterprises reach 85% to 90%.

"The number of international brands has become an unwritten benchmark for measuring the level of shopping malls in the industry.

In the department store industry is the main channel of sales. Now, some domestic brands want to enter the high-end shopping malls, they must accept the high discount rate, and have to identify the foreign names in a prominent position.

Chen Dapeng, vice president of China clothing association, explained.

Li Kailuo further analyzed, "the composition of the price is very complicated, and the manufacturing cost is not big, which includes 70% of the operating cost of the mall, such as the discount rate, rent, personnel and inventory.

So the price tag is five or six times the cost, very normal.

Consumer flaunting psychology also boosted prices.

The mentality of "worshipping foreigners and foreigners" still exists to a certain extent, and feels that foreign products are better than domestic ones, which are more expensive than domestic ones. Some local enterprises deliberately create this image in order to cater for consumers' pursuit of foreign brands.

Wang Jun, a fashion show design expert, puts forward that behind the high price, there is also a fertile ground for gray consumption. "In high-end shopping malls, many consumers use gift cards to consume. Some local clothing brand production and international brands come from the same factory. The quality may vary little, but there are no obvious signs, like many" sky smoke "without packaging, which can embody" low-key luxury "and have a lot of market.

How difficult is intrinsic competition?

It is no longer a new phenomenon for local brands to wear "ocean waistcoat". The center of fashion trends is in Europe and America. "Learning starts with imitation". First, imitate foreign names, then invite foreign designers to play a positive role in enterprise development and advanced technology import in the early stage of garment industry development.

There are also some local brands that have developed to a certain stage. In order to adapt themselves to internationalization, there is a need to set up a foreign name with a brand name in mind.

Chinese men's clothing brand "good bird" is a very Chinese name, since 2005, with the development of the market, "good news birds" also gave themselves an English plation, "Saint Angelo", meaning "holy angel."

In response, Wu Zhize, chairman of the news bird group, said that the premise of starting a foreign name is not to deceive consumers. "From the market point of view, the first tier cities have a high degree of internationalization, and the name of a foreign flavor can be widely recognized, which is to cater to the market and help to open up international markets."

At present, some brands in China are developing rapidly. Although they can not compete with the big brands in the international market, they are not defeated by European two or three line brands in terms of overall product quality and service. For example, Guangzhou's "exceptions" and Hangzhou's "Jiangnan Buyi" have a large number of loyal consumers.

Wang Jun said, "they did not blindly imitate foreign brands, like" exceptions ", using oriental aesthetics to go out of their unique design style.

Some local brands have been copying and copying. There has never been a breakthrough. Such a gambler will lose.

The market is mixed up, and some enterprises claim that they are foreign "blood" from the foreign names. In fact, the trademark registration places and their producing areas are all in the country; some enterprises only register trademarks abroad, and they begin to make up stories and use them to publicize "gimmicks".

In Chen Dapeng's view, it is not advisable to blindly follow the trend of internationalization, and the living space of the "pseudo foreign devil" suspected of deceiving consumers will become increasingly narrow.

"In recent years, Chinese consumers are becoming more and more mature, paying attention to price performance, eyes are bright, and" fake foreign devil "do not have sustainable development ability.

If ten or twenty years ago, just like the "waistcoat", it can still cater for some consumers' showing off mentality. But now that consumers are becoming more rational, the "waistcoat", which lacks local cultural connotation, is calm and relaxed. It is not blindly taken by the international trend, concentrating on building its own brand, and equally capable of competing with international brands on the same level.

How do domestic brands cultivate their internal strength?

Since the reform and opening up, China's garment industry has only begun to develop, but it has become the largest producer and exporter of clothing in the world.

Over the past ten or twenty years, there have also been a number of excellent clothing brands in China.

But in reality, local clothing enterprises do not have the right to speak in fashion and international market. Just like a child in puberty, he is very tall, but without muscle, he still needs to exercise "internal force".

Clothing industry as a high value-added fashion industry, products to achieve the final ratio is culture.

Local enterprises exercise "internal force", that is, to create brand connotation, combined with the development of international market trend, and at the same time close to Chinese consumers' cultural appeal and consumption way to produce products.

Fashion can not be built overnight. It needs cultural conservation. It needs the efforts and struggles of generations and even more than a dozen generations.

Many international brands are used by their founders' names, like Chanel and LV. They have not only experienced a hundred years' accumulation, but also cautious in the way of business development, for fear of smashing their own brands.

Wang Jun put forward the gap between the local garment industry and foreign countries. "The United States makes clothes as a commodity, Italy makes garments as crafts, and France makes costumes as art, while China is making clothes as tools."

Many clothing enterprises' foreign brands and culture are "two skins", the purpose is just to make money, and brands change when they are done.

At present, the elimination rate of local clothing brands is still high. He appeals to local garment enterprises to take responsibility, not simply to salvage from the market, to endure the test of history, to reflect the continuous accumulation of cultural connotation in the brand, as well as an exclusive soul and spirit.

"Brand building is a decades old and a hundred year career. It needs support from a complete industrial chain, innovative R & D team and strict brand management."

But Chen Dapeng believed that "China is the kingdom of clothing, with 5000 years of culture and rich history of clothing. There are many places worth exploring.

Maybe in a few decades, China will become the center of fashion in the world.