The Value Choice Of Design: How Does Creativity Strike Business Interests And How Enterprises Choose?
When designers are facing fashion trends, should they keep up with them or should they persist in creating a world of themselves? How to design, develop, manage and use them when they are constantly commercialized?
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Ruyi 2012 China Fashion Forum
Yamamoto Teruji, the world's fashion designer, made a keynote speech, "the spirit of design", and discussed with the participants.
Yamamoto Teruji, a famous Japanese designer
Criticism of Art
"Mr. Yamamoto Teruji, you are not successful at all. You are not rich."
An American reporter once told me this.
I told him that my success was different from his success, and I felt I had succeeded.
I can show what I want to say through clothing.
Failure to express my opinion through my costume design is a failure.
In fact, the clothing products they produce can be sold in a season, and they can buy Fabrics for the next season's fashion. They can invite the planner to pay wages to the relevant staff, so long as they can run, they can be described as a "comfortable sales volume".
The voice of opposition is no stranger to me.
I once opened a shop in Paris.
At that time, an American fashion newspaper compared my fashion with another brand at that time, came out and drew a big fork number on our brand, which means that we don't want your fashion, we don't want your things.
Actually, I didn't feel unhappy at that time, but I was very happy.
Because our brand came to France for the first time, which has greatly enhanced the popularity of our brand.
It can be said that it was because I experienced all kinds of objections that I came to this day.
In my growth history, many people criticized me, but in this case, I got the medal of France.
I remember a woman reporter wearing a red dress. She told me that I understood you very well. I told her at the time that I didn't need you to understand me. I didn't want to seek your understanding. Understanding was from a downward perspective. This angle is from top to bottom, and I don't need it.
If we call him an artist, what is his role? He should dare to put forward his own different meaning to what we all think is beautiful, that is, to raise his own objection. I think this is the mission of the artist, not just the fashion industry, but the same thing in all fields.
I still believe in this point and do my work under this premise.
In fact, nothing is more boring than wearing rules.
I have never created anything popular in my life. I have always adopted an anti popular attitude against fashion. I am against it. I am a person who is against fashion and anti fashion.
When I wrote my career, I never wanted to write fashion designers.
Fashion Designer
。
In the past, when I was a company, I wrote about senior executives and legal representatives.
Why do I not like the word "fashion"? Because the word "fashion" is very easy to cause misunderstanding. Many people think that fashion is popular. What is popular in this season is fashionable. This is a misunderstanding.
As designers, they can't be influenced by popularity and inclination. Otherwise, this is very dangerous.
Chinese designers can go different ways with Japanese designers.
As a designer, it is necessary to run through one of his beliefs from beginning to end: the last legacy left by both hands.
So if you use your own hands, even if you work harder and harder, you will be able to impress the world by doing a very fine piece of work carefully and carefully.
I once opened a shop in Paris. At that time, we had a clothing company in Tokyo. In the first three or four years, brokers kept me patient, patient and patient. I actually thought about it on the costume festival. He said you could bear it and let me endure it.
Four or five years after I founded a fashion company, I held the fashion exhibition for the first time in Tokyo. At that time, the fate of my designer as a designer had changed greatly.
You have to wait for occasional strength, and you need to be patient.
At the same time, the production of things requires you to think, design and plan, and then put it into production.
And in the process of production, you may produce something beyond your imagination.
Something similar to inspiration, I think this is what God has given you. It is fallen from the sky. It is not produced by ourselves, it is given by God, and it will be moved by itself.
Now, there are some powerful forces in the market. How can the new power rise? You have to win by surprise. The market needs some products that are different from those that are selling well nowadays. Do not imitate the best sellers, and do not follow suit.
Instead, we need to systematically study them, find out their hidden and charismatic secrets, and enlarge them, presenting them with keen observation and experience.
Enterprises should be good at finding.
For example, there is a small gap here. There are some market segments that have not been discovered, and there may be many opportunities for success.
Besides, marketers are more difficult than designers.
Compared with producers, sales are harder to make.
Because if a work or product is not attractive, you have to use your power to make this charming thing attractive. This is very important, so you have to know how to do that kind of creative marketing.
Zhang Rongming, chairman of Beijing AI Underwear Co., Ltd.
Cultural rendering
Design has his ability, and his design skills do not mean that designers have culture.
Our company has many designers. In many people's view, our designers have done a good job, but I always think that our designers have a very short board, that is, lack of Chinese culture and lack of cultural rendering power.
If there is no designer with deep cultural background, it is unrealistic to want to become a master designer. Our designers lack a lot of things in this respect, and there is still a lack of one thing, that is, this kind of learning ability of aesthetics is not enough. If the aesthetic learning ability is not enough, then you can't have any good grasp of beauty. You can't have good ideas, especially in brand promotion. So this year, I put forward that our interior designers should make up two courses, one is to supplement our learning Chinese culture, and the other second is to supplement the learning process of aesthetics.
I am not a designer myself, so I don't know much about designer's thinking and designer's form of work. But because of the two quarter of the year, or the design of four seasons, we must communicate with designers, so I always have a puzzled thing in our company. How much I participate in the design participation is suitable for the development of this brand, because every brand in the company has a designer team, a group, and a special group and team of brand marketing.
A few years ago, I was involved in the whole process of design, from planning to design review, and finally to confirm this order. I was all involved in the promotion of the brand, from the theme of the planning and brand promotion, and even the creativity of the advertising language, all involved in the whole process, and I participated in the final decision of every promotion case.
In the past 35 years, I have been withdrawn. In designing this link, I only participated in a planning meeting, each season's product planning meeting, at the same time, I participated in the product evaluation process.
I will not comment on what kind of money I choose and what type I do not choose. We have formed a product review panel.
Marketing brand promotion is also so.
But the core value proposition that the brand should express is still to be grasped by our business managers. Therefore, we are dealing with the relationship between decision makers and design brands, which is a process of continuous practice and improvement.
Mao Jihong, chairman of Guangzhou Garments Co., Ltd.
Quenching of time
"I am a dog making clothes."
Yamamoto Teruji once said.
I have a very deep relationship with Yamamoto Teruji. He has always been a follower and a fellow traveler from school to now.
I never want to talk about artists, philosophers or designers doing business problems.
Yamamoto Teruji is not easy. He has been sticking to it for 40 years. I think I am very lucky because he has given us tremendous strength from university to now.
Yamamoto Teruji will spend dozens of hours on a few clothes to make this dress for hundreds of hours. I think this kind of concentration and spirit is a special move for our generation designers.
From this, we really know what a designer is, and really make a garment as if it is a love affair with a garment.
This process is like picking up a picture with a low head cut in our design room, telling us that the designer made it out of one piece, written by a love story, not by the so-called too many marketing, or advertising, such deceitful falsehood. He still relies on our true love for clothes, materials, and body.
In fact, I think everyone is very lucky, because Japan's three heroes, whether Lssey Miyake or Yamamoto Teruji, or Wakubo Rei, have pointed out a very clear way to our Asian designers. Only by doing our best, can we belong to the world. Only by using our inner voice to yearn for beauty or to love clothes, is that emotion true and true, so you can go to 40 years.
We have 10 years of business here, 20 years of business, but we still have quite a gap from 40 years.
40 years like a day, it's really hard to make costume design every day.
Fashion designers are very hardworking, especially participants.
International Fashion Week
The design designer in the industry is like a white mouse in a circular cage. In fact, every day he races with himself, and the endless race is actually like an alarm clock, and it never wants to stop.
I was very moved by an artistic director who said something.
He said that the first thing to do in the future is to continue painting. He first wanted to be an artist, second things, and he said he wanted to work with a man named Mao.
In fact, his company was in the process of restructuring.
At that time, I made a decision to do my best to help him.
It is very difficult for a designer to do business, because I am a designer, and I know very well that I am actually pushing myself forward, jumping high, jumping higher and higher, jumping to the end where I don't know where he is. He has to do six sets of design in one quarter, three brands, six designs, men and women, and his company is a designer.
The pressure is very, very large.
One day, the art director told me, "you have given me strength."
I was moved, and I told him that in fact, after 20 years of learning clothes, you have been giving me strength. This response is a good response.
Whether it's a designer or an entrepreneur, I really hope that we love the designers, the people who love the costumes, really use our own lives, and use our every drop of blood, or every force we have, to use in our creations, for brand building.
Xia Guoxin, chairman of Shenzhen Ellassay Apparel Industrial Co
Market docking
The most important thing to do is to design or create.
As a design company emphasizes in his company, the first is creativity, the second is creativity, and the third is creativity.
In fact, creativity is equally important in the field of design and fashion.
I have been thinking through today's study, how to create more creative atmosphere within the enterprise, so that everyone can really dare to think and dare to do.
Similarly, I feel that no one should be deified. I also get an inspiration from Yamamoto Teruji, that is, where we need to reflect, because after all, commercialization may support the future of an enterprise.
Just now, someone asked Yamamoto Teruji a question very much. If he had been a master in the past 30 years and a commercial brand at the same time, he could ask this question very implicitly. Of course, the answer of the master is very clear.
But the questioner is concerned about how to avoid corporate crisis and how to make the business brand thrive under all kinds of crises with the help of the master's feelings.
Mr. Yamamoto Teruji's sharing made me feel deeply. He said, "sometimes it's a burden." he said he would give up. He said he would go to a place, live in a place, the simplest of all, and live there. He could leave at any time.
I think this is a state, not only in the realm of work, I feel that there are many inspiring in my life, I think we are doing business, we are creating wealth, and we have more and more things. We have long time, long time, forget our ultimate purpose, and our progress is tied by wealth and other things that we own.
Yamamoto Teruji's own practice enlightens us.
He said, comfortable sales is to maintain his normal operation, profits, and enough for his life, enough for his company's operation expenses, he can make a comfortable sales, I think this is his consistent pursuit, not too much burden.
In addition, Yamamoto Teruji constantly dares to do something that others do not have in design, not necessarily the best thing to sell, but something that others do not have. He performs the men's dress with women, and watches his Paris fashion show. A fat middle-aged man walks in his fashion week. A housewife walks up to the fashion show with her daily steps. I think this is a simple, natural, but full of great creativity.
But we still need to reflect on it, because the topic of how to combine design and art with business and profit is bound to be placed before us. How to maintain a brand in commercial profit, or in a reasonable field, to pursue a higher brand value, we need to strike a balance between them.
In fact, profit is a safeguard against future risks.
There will be various risks in every business process. Maybe Mr. Yamamoto Teruji's store in the United States is very large, and the investment is very large. If there is no problem in normal operation, but once the financial crisis has come, it may drag his capital at once.
Enterprises should always put financial risks at a certain level. If you want to be a hundred years brand, the financial risk must always be placed at a high level.
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