The Dual Responsibility Of The Textile Industry Is To Give Consideration To The Natural Environment And Beautify Life.

Recently, 5 environmental organizations, including friends of nature and public environmental research center, joined the Tencent green channel in Beijing to jointly publish the Research Report on "pollution of choice of textile brand supply chain for fashion cleaning and green selection". The report pointed out that a large number of large textile brands and clothing retailers in China's supply chain has serious environmental violations, which has a serious impact on China's water environment. This report has aroused widespread concern from all walks of life. Some of the textile manufacturers and brand clothing enterprises surveyed have responded to questions, expressed queries and promoted the solution of the problem.

According to the reporter's understanding, China's textile and clothing exports amount to 206 billion 500 million US dollars, the average growth rate is 11.9% during the "11th Five-Year" period. The proportion of general trade increased from 69.7% in 2005 to 74.4% in 2010, accounting for more than 30% of the total volume of textile and clothing trade in the world. China's textile industry has promoted the development of the global economy and created a large number of employment opportunities. At the same time, we have paid a high price in the environment: our water resources have been seriously polluted and are continuing to increase.

　　 Printing and dyeing industry Higher energy consumption and water consumption

Printing and dyeing industry is a key industry to increase the added value of products in the textile industry chain. It is also an industry with high energy consumption, high water consumption and large amount of wastewater discharge. Textile printing and dyeing wastewater is one of the key sources of pollution in China's industrial system. Energy consumption in printing and dyeing accounts for more than 30% of the energy consumption of the textile product chain, while the energy efficiency in the printing and dyeing links is very low.

According to experts, in the traditional printing and dyeing process, there will be a large number of toxic sewage. After processing, some toxic dyes or processing aids in the waste water will have a direct impact on human health. In 2012, Greenpeace released the report of "fashion poison 3". It pointed out that the toxic and harmful substances NPE (nonylphenol ethoxylates) on many international and domestic brand clothing products will be released in large quantities during washing process, and then be discharged into rivers, lakes and oceans, and spanformed into a more toxic chemical substance that interferes with endocrine system -NP (Ren Jifen). According to the introduction, if the waste water has not been treated or treated without reaching the required discharge standard, it will be discharged directly. After decomposition, these organic components will consume all the oxygen in the water, causing the fish and shrimp to die in batches, until the river becomes a stagnant pool, which seriously destroys the water body, sediment and its ecosystem.

At the same time, due to uneven development between regions and enterprises, the water consumption and comprehensive energy consumption per unit product in the whole industry process still have a large gap compared with the advanced countries and regions. China's printing and dyeing industry has more than 90% of its capacity in 5 provinces along the eastern coast. Due to the over concentration of production capacity, the total amount of pollutants discharged in some areas exceeds the environmental affordability, plus some problems in policy and management, which makes the environmental pressure in these areas bigger.

It is understood that China's per capita available water resources account for only 1/4 of the world average, while facing the dual threat of water shortage and water pollution. Of the more than 600 cities in the country, 2/3 are in a state of water shortage, of which more than 100 cities are seriously short of water. And a large part of the waste water causes serious pollution of groundwater in lakes, rivers and cities, which makes the limited water resources more and more scarce.

Experts from China printing and Dyeing Industry Association told China Economic Herald reporter that in recent years, China's printing and dyeing industry has done a lot of work in energy conservation and emission reduction, and achieved remarkable results. But with the sustained and rapid development of the industry, it is inevitable that the total consumption of water resources and the total amount of wastewater discharged will increase. The key is that some textile enterprises can not achieve stable emission standards in order to reduce costs and deliberately violate environmental regulations.

In recent years, the ecological requirements of textiles in the European and American markets are getting higher and higher. The ecological performance has become a must to be inspected in international trade, and the index is increasing constantly, and the speed of setting up is speeding up. This is undoubtedly adding more and more harm to export oriented textile enterprises. It is understood that in China's pollution map database, there are more than 6000 records of illegal overrecords, including a large number of illegal enterprises exceeding the standard, involving violations of environmental regulations such as waste water, waste gas and solid waste. Especially, water pollution records are the most, involving privately built underground pipes, untreated straight row pollutants, abnormal use of sewage treatment facilities, excessive discharge of pollutants in excess of standards, unauthorized use of closed production facilities, and supervision by environmental problems.

Many polluting textile factories are suppliers of multinational clothing retailers and brands. In recognition of the risks of supplier pollution to brands, and the fact that resources and energy are increasingly scarce, multinational corporations have developed strict corporate social responsibility policies. However, these good policies are often difficult to implement effectively under the influence of local supervision and public concern about the environmental performance of enterprises.

Do environmental groups exceed their powers in charge of administrative supervision?

After investigating the relationship between the textile products manufacturers and the well-known brands, the environmental protection organizations sent letters to CEO of 46 enterprises on March 22, 2012, 26 and 29. After the letter was sent, some brands responded. Among them, Nike, Yida, WAL-MART, H&M, Levi "s", Adidas, Burberry and so on have begun to take positive actions to carry out queries and push them forward.

It is understood that ZARA As one of the largest fashion retail companies in the world, there are environmental violations in some suspected suppliers, including complaints by local people, direct discharge of some production wastewater without treatment, one of the typical cases of environmental violations in the locality, and many casualties due to the clearance of waste water tanks. After receiving the letter, he received a reply from ZARA, and wrote, "we regret that we can not answer the individual's response to our business model from schools, civil servants and professionals."

In the interview, he found that ZARA, the founder of green selection initiative, thought that the company had violated its public commitments. He called on ZARA to stop responding to environmental organizations' queries on the basis of the "business model" as soon as possible, and promote its supply chain to solve the pollution problem. It also appealed to large brands and retailers to immediately determine whether their suppliers had open overruled records, and to promote the corrective actions taken by illegal suppliers. In addition, retailers and brands set up an active management system, through regular queries on publicly issued list of illegal enterprises exceeding the standard, finding problems and promoting rectification, and promoting pollution enterprises to explain to the public. "We also call on these retailers and factories to adopt green supply chain policies to push suppliers beyond compliance and continuous improvement."

But there are also some enterprises and people who question whether the behavior of environmental organizations is beyond their own functions. A scholar who asked not to be named questioned that some practices of environmental protection organizations were really uncomfortable for the Chinese people. But in Europe and America, the enterprises concerned were all answered accordingly, which is also a response to the public and a part of corporate social responsibility. At present, there are many loopholes in the domestic administrative department, and there are local protectionism, and the media and environmental protection organizations play an effective role in making up for the lack of supervision.

　　 Textile industry Entering the era of low carbon economy needs multi party cooperation

According to the experts of the China printing and dyeing Association, the production equipment of some printing and dyeing enterprises has reached the international advanced level in the eastern coastal areas of China. However, the overall equipment level of the printing and dyeing industry is still not high. There are still many enterprises with poor stability in production equipment, high energy consumption and water consumption, low automation level, and high automation level and high energy consumption and water consumption.

After being industrialized and informationized, the world economy is moving towards low carbonization. The era of low carbon economy has arrived, which indicates that the low carbon economy will be an important manifestation of national competitiveness and enterprise competitiveness in the next 40 years from now to 2050. In the new round of globalization, the developing mode of high carbon, high energy consumption and high growth in emerging economies is facing enormous pressure, and emerging economies are in the stage of rapid development, and the pressure of emission reduction is far more than that of developed countries. At this point, government departments, retailers, manufacturers and consumers should adopt the means of continuous cooperation and cooperation to create a win-win situation together.

Government departments should strengthen supervision, expand information disclosure, and guide enterprises to save energy and reduce consumption by means of marketization. The experts suggested that we should strengthen environmental supervision of textile enterprises, enforce laws strictly and punish the law violators, urge them to strictly implement emission standards and regulations, further expand environmental information disclosure, publish environmental supervision records of textile enterprises in a comprehensive, timely and complete way, and promote enterprises to publish data on their emissions and resource consumption at the same time, so as to enhance public supervision of enterprises; and use environmental economic policy tools such as price leverage, green credit, green securities, green foreign trade, etc., to guide enterprises to prevent energy saving and consumption reduction.

Textile brands and retailers should make use of information disclosure to work together with stakeholders to promote emission reduction in the supply chain. When pollution emissions extend along with the extension of supply chain, the environmental management of brand to its supply chain only stays at the level of supplier at the level of direct spanaction. It is often insufficient to extend the environmental management along the supply chain. With the extension of supply chain, the number of suppliers is larger and the supply relationship is more complicated. The influence of brand enterprises on suppliers without direct contractual relationship will also decline with the extension of supply chain.

The "printing and dyeing industry" 12th Five-Year "development plan" clearly pointed out that during the "12th Five-Year" period, China's printing and dyeing industry will focus on promoting technological innovation and technological progress in the industry, reducing resource consumption, reducing environmental pollution, improving the added value of products, improving the quality and efficiency of economic growth, innovating marketing mode, speeding up structural optimization and adjustment and spanformation of development mode.