"Isolated" Song Jacquard Jacquard Loom Re Emerged

At a recent trade fair for cultural and creative industries in Suzhou, China, a ladies' bag with tapestry fabrics attracted audience's attention.

The sharp eyed old Suzhou felt the traditional silk names of Suzhou pleasantly surprised.

The hope of returning.

The song brocade originated in the Song Dynasty and originated in Suzhou. It is also known as the "Song brocade of Suzhou".

Song Gaozong in order to meet the palace clothing and painting and calligraphy mounting needs to promote Song Jin, and specially set up the Song Jin weaving department in Suzhou.

Song brocade and Nanjing Yun Brocade and Sichuan Shu Brocade also call China's three famous brocade.

Its texture is beautiful, its craft is unique, and it has the reputation of "splendid crown".

But with the changes of the times, heavy manual weaving and expensive production cost make Song Jin gradually lose its past advantages and its inherent market, and it is on the verge of death.

In 2006, "Song brocade weaving technology" was selected as a national intangible cultural heritage, and in 2009, it was selected as the representative list of human intangible cultural heritage.

Like many "intangible heritage", song brocade is also in the dilemma of inheritance and protection.

Only by the protection fund set up by the government can it lie in the museum; and with the combination of the market, song brocade can not only protect it, but also usher in a new development.

Looking for the road of resurrection from the decline

As long as the audience of the song brocade women's bag has ever seen it, the song brocade can be described as "amazing" with clever use of fashionable articles.

This is a joint effort of a silk enterprise in Suzhou with MS. Song Jin's national successor, Ms. Qian Xiaoping, to combine the traditional Song Jin weaving skills with modern loom technology, so that Song Jin's mass production can be realized, so that the technology of the endangered Song Jin has been developed.

Wu Jianhua, chairman of the song brocade industrialization project and chairman of Wujiang Dingsheng silk Co., Ltd., told reporters that song brocade weaving entered the electronic age. The value is self-evident. The commercial value of the market is only one aspect, and more importantly, the value of cultural heritage.

The intangible cultural heritage is best known as "living protection". With the scientific method and modern thinking to deduce song brocade, the song brocade products will be applied more closely to the areas closely related to life in order to better inherit the Suzhou silk culture and the representative work of Chinese silk culture.

The idea of "living protection" has existed for a long time, but it is not easy to implement it.

The key problem is how to overcome the defects of traditional technology so as to meet the aesthetic needs and industrial needs of modern people.

Therefore, finding the reason for the decline of Song Jin became the first step for Wu Jianhua to begin his "revival of song brocade".

After visiting many old experts and old engineers, he found that the production process of song brocade was rather complicated. In general, brocade was only a weft flower, while the song brocade was also used for warp and weft. At the same time, weaving was usually made of "three twill weaves", two by three weft, the warp bottom was used and the surface was cut, the bottom was colored colored silk, ground texture, and the surface was made of raw silk to make the weft joint. In a word, it was not counted on the plate making. Only the weaving procedure, the song brocade was more than two times higher than that of the ordinary brocade.

The brocade brocade should be made of pure natural natural dyes. First, the silk will be dyed with good color according to the needs of the pattern, so as to enter the weaving process.

Dye selection is very strict, mostly plant dyes, and some mineral dyes, all by hand dyeing.

In addition, the song brocade has a long time to make the pattern plate. The 20 cm flower pattern needs 1800 plates. It takes more than a month.

Therefore, low yield and high cost are a major feature of the traditional song brocade.

In modern times, after the silk textile factory was finished, due to the complexity of the brocade brocade technology and the delayed development of weaving machinery, the output became less and less, and gradually lost the market competitiveness.

"Ocean machine" has become a "combination of foreign and foreign languages".

Can we use modern technology?

According to the song brocade technology pformed into an electronic jacquard machine? When Wu Jianhua put forward this idea, many old experts and old workers heard repeatedly waving their hands.

In August 2009, Wu Jianhua bought and invested in the old factory of Suzhou Dong Wu silk weaving factory, carrying the "Suzhou silk" girders, and the arrival of a large group of management and technical personnel gave him the bottom line.

After three years of unremitting exploration and accumulation, with the efforts of the technical team, in March this year, an electronic jacquard loom, which was imported from abroad and reformed and accorded with the technical parameters of the traditional brocade weaving technology, was finally developed.

"At present, there is only one electronic jacquard loom that can produce song brocade in the world. The related technologies have applied for 5 patents and have independent intellectual property rights. At ordinary times, the workers in the factory can't get close to it."

Entering the Dingsheng silk gate, the workers told reporters that it was not easy to see that the electronic jacquard machine, which was able to weave song brocade after pformation, could enjoy the treatment of single rooms and exclusive workers.

By consent, the reporter in the factory workshop deep isolated area, close to see this newly developed "Song brocade electronic jacquard loom".

The loom is running rapidly, weaving a beautiful fabric. "This is song brocade, which is weaving the first batch of industrial application fabrics."

Wu Jianhua said that compared with the traditional mechanical looms, the advantage of the upgraded jacquard looms is very obvious.

First, the width of the door is wider, the width of the traditional loom is only 160 cm, the width of the electronic loom is 300 cm; secondly, the width of the traditional loom is only 20 cm, and the width of the electronic loom can reach 60 cm; the most important is the efficiency is higher, the traditional loom is only 18 meters per day, and the electronic loom can weave 45 meters per station per day.

Although the yield increased significantly compared to the traditional loom, it was only 1/3 of other common brocade.

Where is the expensive Hermes scarf?

He Minsu, an expert with many years of brocade weaving experience, told reporters that the development of the electronic jacquard machine laid a solid foundation for Song Jin's rebirth, but it still needs a lot of efforts to get modern market recognition and create new brilliance.

The most important thing is the ability of "intention", that is, the design ability of modern language.

Song Jin paid much attention to "artistic conception" when he was born. The brocade and elegance produced by him were often used for mounting high value gift boxes such as palace paintings, paintings and decorations.

But this kind of design ability can not be possessed by people without artistic accomplishment.

The pattern of ordinary brocade is mostly plum orchid bamboo chrysanthemum and so on. While song brocade should match those valuable paintings or gifts, the design of pattern and texture can not be the same as general. And how to express the unusual design with silk thread, it is necessary to have certain knowledge of weaving technology and dyeing.

Therefore, in ancient times, song brocade weaving artists were "circles" with calligraphers and calligraphers, and their artistic accomplishments were very high.

Wu Jianhua said, in fact, it is not only song brocade, but also in every skill.

All are core and soul.

Why do Chinese silk now occupy 80% of the world's market share, but the high-end market can't see a trace? Why does a Hermes scarf sell thousands of dollars and the domestic scarf is reduced to a "sales stall" for sales volume? The key is still in design.

Therefore, in the pformation of Song Jin electronic jacquard machine, the design of "expressive ability" as an important parameter has been greatly promoted.

The combination of "digital technology" and "artificial artifice" has greatly enriched the flower pattern of song brocade, effectively improved the weaving accuracy, and produced high-end song brocade products with complex flower patterns and relief patterns.

All these have opened up great space for the development of song brocade extension products, such as mounting brocade, decorative brocade, appreciation of brocade and clothing brocade, and developing cultural gifts such as calligraphy, painting, Thangka, greeting cards and so on.