Chinese Traditional Costume Culture -- Chinese Tunic Suit

It is a clothing named after Sun Wen.

Many famous figures such as Jiang Zhongzheng, Mao Zedong, Zhou Enlai and Deng Xiaoping often wear Chinese tunic suits.

Since Mao Zedong, a famous political figure in China, often wears a Chinese tunic suit, people in the West call it Mao Suit, but China never has such a name. The Japanese call the Chinese tunic suit "the people's clothing".

This clothing and its changing clothing became the main costume styles of Chinese people before 1980s.

Today, leaders of China and North Korea will also wear tunic suits on important occasions.

Characteristics

Chinese tunic suit is based on the extensive absorption of European and American costumes. Modern Chinese father Sun Zhongshan integrated the characteristics of western style clothing and Chinese style clothes, and designed a straight Lapel four bagged garment with a bag cover and was called the Chinese tunic suit. After that, Zhongshan became a popular fashion and once became one of the Chinese men's favorite standard costumes.

Since Mao Zedong, the founding leader of new China, often wore Chinese tunic suits in public, the West also used to call the Chinese tunic suit "Mao Zhuang".

In 1960 and 1970s, hundreds of millions of Chinese adult men mostly wore Chinese tunic suits.

After 1980s, with the deepening of reform and opening up, suits and other fashions began to become popular.

Although the Chinese tunic suit is gradually forgotten in the public, it is worth mentioning that when Chinese leaders attended major events in China, they were still used to wearing Chinese tunic suits, such as the National Day parade.

In 2009, the 60th anniversary birthday of People's Republic of China, chairman Hu Jintao and other leaders in the Chinese tunic suit facing the world and facing the world!

Zhongshan suit forming

In 1919, Sun Zhongshan asked Henry clothing store in Shanghai to turn a military uniform into casual clothes.

On the basis of retaining certain patterns of military uniform, this casual dress has absorbed the advantages of Chinese clothing and suits, and appears to be concise, simple and generous.

Because of Mr. Sun Zhongshan's advocacy and his reputation, this casual dress style spreads quickly, and has been pformed into a Chinese tunic suit and has become a popular clothing for Chinese men.

There are other arguments about the origins of the Chinese tunic suit.

If some of them were published in Guangzhou in 1912, some of them were made by Japanese railway uniform.

Huang Longsheng, an overseas Chinese in Vietnam, has a Western-style clothes shop. In 1902, Sun Zhongshan went to Vietnam to organize a group meeting, and went shopping at Huang's shop once.

Huang knew that the customer was Sun Zhongshan.

Immediately asked to join the Central Committee and contribute to the revolution.

The Chinese tunic suit was set up in 1912. After the founding of new China, both the revolutionary leaders and the revolutionary cadres wore Chinese tunic suits. The people also expressed their welcome to the new era with this kind of clothing.

Therefore, the Chinese tunic suit has become popular in the society and has become a landmark garment of Chinese men's clothing. Even today's T stage still can see the fashion dress evolved from it.

The origin of the Chinese tunic suit

In the Qing Dynasty (1644 to 1911), Chinese men dressed their hair according to Manchu style and wore clothes and hats, which lasted until the beginning of twentieth Century.

Although China has entered the path of modern history, its traditional clothing still has certain stability. Clothing still uses traditional patterns such as robes, Liriodendron, and leather cap.

Shortly after the twenty-six years of Guangxu (1900), the traditional style of dress began to be influenced by some foreign dress patterns. Some changes occurred, but the basic pattern remained the same. Until the outbreak of the 1911 Revolution in 1911, there were some fundamental changes. It symbolized the complete collapse of the Qing Dynasty and the end of an era.

The revolution of 1911 brought not only social upheaval, but also faster and more obvious changes in clothing.

The Chinese tunic suit was born in this change.

Origin of name

Chinese tunic suit is a large variety of modern Chinese clothing.

The upper and lower sides of their jackets have a pocket with a lid and buttons. The lower part is a pair of trousers. This is a popular clothing after the revolution of 1911. It was worn by popular revolutionary forerunner Sun Zhongshan as a temporary president and was popular in the world.

It has the characteristics of our nation and is simple, comfortable and simple. When the Kuomintang constitution was formulated in eighteen years (1929), it was stipulated that a certain class of civil servants wore tunic suits when they took the oath of office.

There is also information that the Chinese tunic suit was made from the military uniform at that time.

In 1919, when Mr. Sun Zhongshan lived in Shanghai, he once took a set of worn army uniform to the famous Henry clothing store. He changed the tailor into "casual clothes" and changed into "casual clothes" and still looked a bit like military uniform.

But in casual clothes, it is neither a "Tang suit" nor a "suit", and the shop assistants call it the Chinese tunic suit.

At that time, there was a seams on the back of the Chinese tunic suit, with a middle waist on the back, 9 buttons on the front door buttons, and a "fat pleat" in the upper and lower pockets.

Because of the high prestige of Mr. Sun Zhongshan at home and abroad, this style of service has spread rapidly all over the country.

style

The closed type eight neckline neckline is sleeved, the front flap is centered on 5 clear buttons, and the back block is seamless.

The cuff can be forked or fasten, or the buckles should be open or not.

Ming pocket, left and right symmetry, cover, nail button, the top two bags are flat bags, the bottom corner is circular, the middle of the bag cover is curved, and the two big pockets below are tiger bags (1.5 to 2 centimeters on the edge).

The trousers have three pockets (two side trouser bags and a back pocket with a cover), with trouser legs.

It is obvious that the formation of the Chinese tunic suit has incorporated the traditional Chinese consciousness in the basic formation of the suit, and the overall profile is shoulder pad waist, balanced and symmetrical, and wears steadily and generously.

Since its birth in 1923, the Chinese tunic suit has always been the most popular and favorite style for Chinese men.

Sun Zhongshan, the democratic revolutionary of China, is the founder of Zhongshan suit.

In 1923, when Mr. Sun Zhongshan was appointed Chief Marshal of the Chinese revolutionary government in Guangzhou, he felt that

Not only is the style cumbersome, it is inconvenient to wear, but it is not adapted to the practical requirements of the Chinese people in life, work and so on. However, the original Chinese clothing (breasted jacket, big shirt, etc.) can not fully show the spirit of the Chinese people at the time, and also has the disadvantages of being similar to a suit.

It is therefore advocated that a collar with a reverse collar instead of a suit shirt should be added to the collar at the time.

In this way, a jacket will have the function of a suit, shirt and hard collar. The three dark bags of the top coat will be changed to four clear bags. The two bags next to it will also be cut into a "Piano bag" pattern that can be contracted with the amount of articles put into it.

Mr. Sun Zhongshan said that he needed to reform his pocket so that his pocket could be put into books, notebooks and other essentials for study and work, and the soft cover was added to his pocket, so the articles in the bag were not easy to lose.

The trousers designed by Mr. Sun Zhongshan are: front slots, dark buttons, left and right dark bags, a small pocket (front pocket) in front, a dark bag on the right rear hip, and a soft cover.

Such trousers are convenient to wear and are also suitable for carrying necessities.

Mr. Sun Zhongshan, who helped Mr. Huang Longsheng create the Chinese tunic suit, was named Huang Longsheng, a native of Taishan, Guangdong. She originally opened Longsheng clothes shop in Paul's parting street.

In December 1902, Mr. Sun Zhongshan went to Hanoi to organize the China Central Committee.

Huang Longsheng learned that before the customer was the leader of the revolutionary party, Mr. Sun Zhongshan, he fell very much.

It is earnestly requested to join the Central Committee to make money for the revolution.

In 1923, Mr. Huang Longsheng worked with Mr. Sun Zhongshan in the Grand Marshal house.

When Mr. Sun Zhongshan designed the Chinese tunic suit, he asked him to help with the planning and responsible sewing, and successfully made the world's first set of Chinese tunic suits.

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Modeling feature

The Chinese tunic suit was promoted by Sun Zhongshan because of its simplicity and practicality. Since the revolution of 1911, it has become popular with Western-style clothes.

In 1912, the government of the Republic of China ordered the Chinese tunic suit as a dress, modified the Chinese tunic pattern and gave the new meaning.

Set up lapel collar, front button five buckles, four stickers, cuffs three buckles.

The rear piece does not crack.

In fact, these forms are exquisite. They contain meaning according to Zhou Dai's etiquette in the book of changes.

First, the four pockets of the predecessor represent the four dimensions of the country (courtesy, righteousness, honesty and shame), and the bag cover is the inverted penholder, which means to govern the country by writing.

Secondly, the five buttons of the lapel are different from the separation of five powers in the western three powers (administration, legislation, judicature, examination and supervision).

Thirdly, the three buttons on the left and right cuffs denote the three people's principles (nationality, civil rights, people's livelihood) and Republic (equality, freedom, fraternity).

Fourth, the back does not crack, indicating the great meaning of national peaceful reunification.

Fifthly, the collar is turned into a closed collar, showing the concept of strict rule.

The Chinese tunic suit is named after Mr. Sun Zhongshan's first wearing.

When the Kuomintang constitution was formulated in the eighteen year of the Republic of China, a certain class of civil servants was required to wear tunic suits when they took the oath of office.

Shape: erect collar, breasted, front five buttons, four stickers, three cuffs.

The rear piece does not crack.

Design concept

The original style of the Chinese tunic suit is: the jacket is a collar, a front flap, 9 clear buttons, 4 pressure pockets, and a back shoulder, a dark fold back seam and a half belt.

In 1922, the Chinese tunic suit was replaced with a lapel collar, 7 buckles and a lower pocket for tiger bags.

And then changed to the present style: the jacket is made up of lapel collar, with the wind fastener; the garment body is three open, the front door plaid, 5 clear buttons; 4 patch bags, each with a bag cover and 1 clear buttons, the upper is flat bag, the next is tiger bag, the left and right sides are symmetrical; the left upper bag lid keeps a 3cm insertion pen on the right line trace.

There are 3 buckles in the cuffs.

Trousers that match the Chinese tunic suit are usually used in western style trousers with the same material and the same color.

With regard to "Zhongshan suit" and "dictionary of Chinese culture and customs", Sun Zhongshan wrote: "referring to the characteristics of Chinese original underwear, he absorbed the" business clothes "and" suit style "of overseas Chinese in Southeast Asia, and in accordance with the principle of" fit for health, easy to move, easy to economy, and strong in outlook ", personally hosted the design of a fashion style made by Huang Longsheng.

Manufacturing process

work

The Chinese tunic suit is more workmanship, the collar should be made into the nest, and the shoulders should not be raised. The sleeves are like the Western sleeves, which require the front circle to ascend, and the front chest must have the fat potential. The four pockets should be made plain and the silk thread should be straight.

In the process, we can divide into two kinds, namely, fine work and simple.

They are lined with pads and pads. They are usually used for dress and trousers. The latter is not lined with material, and is suitable for everyday wear.

There are many advantages of the Chinese tunic suit, mainly in the form of symmetrical symmetry, beautiful appearance, elegant and steady, convenient activities, free action, warm body protection, both for dress and casual wear.

The disadvantages are tight necktie, necktie and so on.

The Chinese tunic suit has attracted the attention of the middle and old aged people and overseas Chinese because of its unique calm, steady and generous style, especially the intellectuals still regard the Chinese tunic suit as their daily clothing.

When wearing, we should pay attention to the meaning conveyed by the Chinese tunic suit, which coincides with the degree of human ecology. It is necessary to close up the fashion buttons and to open the collar buttons with the comfort of people for a while. This will make them appear neither fish nor fowl in the eyes of the public, but also lose their elegance and seriousness.

color

The colors of Zhongshan suit are very rich. Besides common blue and gray, camel, black, white, gray green, beige and so on.

Generally speaking, southern areas prefer light colors while northern areas prefer dark colors.

On different occasions, the choice of colors is different. The colors of the Chinese tunic suit used in ritual should be solemn and calm, and the colors can be vivid and lively when taking them.

Texture of material

about

There are also some differences in the selection of tunic fabrics for the dress. The best choice is the pure woolen cloth, the camel silk brocade, the Mel don, the Navy cloth and so on.

These fabrics are characterized by their rich texture, full handle, smooth surface and soft luster. They complement each other in the style and style of the Chinese tunic suit, and make the garments more steady and dignified. As a result, the fabric can be selected to be relatively flexible, and can be used for cotton, Khaki, Hua Dane, chemical fiber fabrics and blended wool fabrics.