Chen Baojian, Technical Director Of The National Textile Product Development Center

Not long ago, the China Textile Information Center and the national textile product development center were accompanied by China Chemical Fiber Industry Association and China. clothing The association and the China Home Textile Industry Association, jointly with 20 enterprises such as Jiangsu Xia Ke environmental protection color spinning Limited by Share Ltd, Tian Nu photoelectric material Limited by Share Ltd and Heng Tian Enterprise Limited, have initiated the establishment of "China Green non dyeing textile Innovation Alliance" and "fiber raw liquor coloring" technology. Around the current status of the technology and the subsequent planning of the alliance, journalists and the main leaders and countries of the Alliance Textile products Chen Baojian, technical director of the development center, started the dialogue.

Improving the quality of masterbatch is the breakthrough point.

Reporter: please briefly introduce the development status of the raw liquor coloring technology.

Chen Baojian: "coloring of raw fluid" means polyester melt (or slicing) is injected into the spinning box before injection into the drying, melting, filtering and metering color (color masterbatch). After mixing fully with the polyester melt and high efficiency static mixer, it enters the spinning box to spin. In the process of melt spinning, no waste water is produced. It is an anhydrous dyeing process. Raw liquor coloring technology is a mature technology, which is complementary to dyeing and finishing technology. The coloring process of raw liquor has the advantages of clean production, energy saving and emission reduction, but it also has some defects, for example, the varieties of colorants with high temperature resistance, the incomplete color system, and the addition of Color Masterbatch cause the instability of fiber production process.

China began to dye viscose fiber and vinylon in the early 70s of last century. In the past 10 years, dyed raw liquid of polypropylene fiber has been developed. Since the beginning of 1980s, the production technology of pre dyed polyester fiber has been introduced. It has been widely used in industrial applications. In recent years, the pre coloring technology has obvious advantages in saving energy and reducing the three wastes. With the increasingly stringent environmental protection requirements, it has more practical use value and good prospects for development.

Reporter: the establishment of "China's green no dye" Spin What is the potential of the innovation alliance to develop the raw liquor coloring technology?

Chen Baojian: because the coloring fibers of raw liquor are colored in the process of fiber spinning by adding masterbatch on line, there is no pollution in the production process, and clean production is realized. The finished fabrics are directly produced by coloring fibers from raw liquid, which directly reduces the printing and dyeing links, and reduces the pollution of wastewater discharge to the environment, thereby reducing the amount of energy used, protecting the environment, reducing the production cost, and improving the color fastness of fabrics, including washing fastness and rubbing fastness. Preliminary calculations show that the average cost of producing plain colored fabrics is 5% and that of sports stripes can be saved by 19%. Such products are very beneficial to society, production enterprises, enterprises and consumers.

Reporter: where is the bottleneck of this technology? What aspects do we need to break through?

Chen Baojian: high quality masterbatch is the main bottleneck that restricts the development and popularization of polyester raw liquor dyeing technology in China. Because the thermal and chemical processes in chemical fiber production greatly restrict and restrict the development of Color Masterbatch, compared with printing and dyeing, the chromatogram is incomplete and not bright enough. Color Masterbatch consists of colorant, carrier and dispersant. Colorants can be broadly divided into dyes and pigments. Carriers have different selections due to different fiber types added. Therefore, breaking through the bottleneck of high quality masterbatch production should start from the following four aspects:

One is the coloring agent, focusing on the research of high performance dyes and pigments, especially the synthesis of high temperature resistant dyes.

The two is dispersant, dispersing agent which is close to pigment size by air flow grinding and grinding technology.

The three is carrier research and development of special resin to improve the synergistic effect and dispersion of pigment in masterbatch.

The four is to establish a high quality color masterbatch demonstration production line to improve the color masterbatch liquidity and dispersion.

Upstream and downstream alliance core power

Reporter: can you introduce the key enterprises involved in the alliance? What advantages do they have in this technology?

Chen Baojian: "China Green non staining Textile Innovation Alliance" is made by Color Masterbatch manufacturers. Fiber manufacturing Enterprise, fabric production enterprise and terminal Clothing brand Enterprises and other 20 well-known enterprises jointly formed. Among them:

Shandong Tian Luo photoelectric material Limited by Share Ltd is a research and development enterprise of color masterbatch. It has nearly 13 years of production history of chemical fiber raw liquor dyeing agent. In early 2010, the performance of the raw liquor dyeing agent developed by the company is superior to that of similar products imported from Japan. It has a precision synthetic reactor, and the annual production capacity of the full automatic production line reaches 200 tons.

Jiangsu Xia Ke environmental protection color spinning Limited by Share Ltd is the "national environmental protection color fiber product development base". It mainly produces dyed fibers and yarns of raw liquid. The main products and capacity include 50 thousand tons / year regenerated raw liquid coloured polyester fiber production line, 200 thousand ton / year polyester melt spinning raw liquid coloured polyester fiber production line, 200 thousand ton / year non coloured cotton collocation center and 400 thousand ingot color yarn (line) production line. In addition to pure polyester yarns, natural fibers and synthetic fibers are blended to achieve the complementary advantages of fiber and "harmony between man and nature". With the China Fashion Color Association, we have developed CNCS color spinning special color card and practical color standard system, providing a variety of options for downstream customers.

Wuxi Heng no Knitting Co., Ltd. is the "national functional knitted fabric development base". With the development, development, production and sale of all kinds of medium and high grade sports fabrics as the core, with the excellent quality and strong strength, the company's scale has been growing continuously. It has become a modern knitted fabric company with complete equipment, perfect functions and standardized management. It has become a famous supplier of high quality sportswear brand fabrics at home and abroad, such as ADIDAS, MIZUNO, ASICS, ARENA, UMBRO and 361.

Lining sporting goods Co., Ltd. is China's household name "Gymnastics Prince" Mr. Lining founded in 1990 sporting goods company. After more than 20 years of exploration, Li Ning Co has gradually become China's leading international sports Brand Company.

Reporter: before the national textile product development center, there are several examples of technology alliance, such as Tianzhu alliance. What kind of successful experience do you think is worth learning from?

Chen Baojian: "strategic alliance for textile technology development and innovation" is an innovative form of organization based on the national textile product development base and promoting textile fabric industry innovation. "Alliance" gives full play to the market oriented advantages of the statistical analysis, product development and Trend Research of the industrial economy, and integrates the advantages of the materials, textile dyeing and finishing technologies and the creative design of the clothing brand. Relying on the innovative advantages of the base business group, it has rapidly formed the strength of integrated innovation with speed, cost, quality, style and high market rate, and greatly improved the competitiveness of the alliance's products.

At present, we have successfully carried out "Tianzhu product development technology innovation alliance", "Haixing shallows TM product development technology innovation alliance" and "Huafu color woven fabric product development technology innovation alliance". Through the effective operation of "alliance", the detailed rules of product development plan have been formed, and a more comprehensive "alliance" member "agreement" has been worked out. The division and responsibilities of each other have been clarified. The "alliance" product development process and product development tools have been perfected, the work efficiency has been improved, the "alliance" work presentation mode has been defined, and the operation quality has been improved. With the passage of time and the accumulation of work, these successful experiences will surely play a positive role in promoting the healthy and sustainable development of "alliance" in the future.

Work around terminal needs

Reporter: you put forward ten major plans for the coloring product development. What is the basis of your plan?

Chen Baojian: one is to carry out the research on the terminal application field of "raw liquid coloring textile products". Starting from the influence of the economic development track on the consumption mode, combined with the trend and trend of technology, we can fully channel and communicate with the downstream key product development enterprises, partners and clothing terminal brands, and accurately locate the direction of product development and the application field of products.

Two, according to the characteristics of raw liquid dyed fibers and the characteristics of yarn, combined with the cost accounting of prophase product development, the optimal design of product design is determined, so as to further determine the product development capacity of yarn blending fiber, fabric color, color matching, style, pattern and price positioning, and formulate specific product development plan.

Reporter: what are the detailed plans for the next development of the alliance?

Chen Baojian: first, we should actively study the consumption demand and trend of green non dyed textiles, pay attention to the impact of the product life cycle on environment, energy and resources, and combine technological innovation and fashion creativity to guide product development, guide market consumption and advocate green life.

Two, we should actively carry out research on key technologies such as "masterbatch optimization and blending", "online addition and process control of dye migration" and "multi-component fiber blending", forming common technologies in energy saving, emission reduction, consumption reduction and cleaner production.

The three is to develop super fine, super simulation, functional coloring fiber, enrich product color and variety, and improve product performance and quality.

We will work hard for the upstream and downstream enterprises of "green and non dyed textiles". We will enhance the level of sustainable development from the whole process of design, research and development, production, logistics, sales, recycling, reuse, and jointly build a complete green supply chain, green industrial chain and green value chain.