High Level Customization - Classic In Fashion

Luxury fabrics, colorful colors, unique tailoring, each style is unique because of its owner; It will never bow to kitsch, but will shine with the passage of time. Every detail presents an extraordinary and elegant state, every piece of beautiful clothing It can be called a superior artwork. This is the diamond in fashion - high customization.

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　　 Advanced customization

Chinese style high setting rough road

Although the market for advanced customization is shrinking in Europe and the United States, this process, which has lasted for a hundred years, is still popular in various countries. Until today, after the change of Chinese consumption habits, advanced customization has really had the soil suitable for taking root in China.

　 Two consumption soils

Do you often encounter such a scene: a family or several friends go shopping together, when you see your favorite clothes, you will always ask them to help you reference, and then decide whether to buy. It is very common for several people to talk about the lively scene of clothing together in shopping malls or specialty stores.

However, with the change of Chinese people's vision and aesthetic standards, more and more people find that popular clothing products can no longer meet the needs of consumers, especially those young people who are rich and have good taste. Take Beijing as an example. Whether in shopping malls or brand clothing stores, clothes with a sense of design and creativity have become a new market demand.

Driven by this new trend, many trendy brands with street culture as the background have emerged in the market; At the same time, there are also some consumers with higher demand levels. Advanced customization has become the best channel for them to obtain fit clothes and create elegant shapes.

It is different from the needs of Chinese people. In Europe and the United States, buying clothes is a relatively "self" thing. Under the industrialized production and sales system of ready to wear clothes, unless you are lucky enough to find a set of clothes that are unique and completely meet your own aesthetic taste from the mass production of ready to wear clothes, you do not know where to go, This embarrassing thing will happen to you.

Most Europeans do not go shopping in groups, and even their best friends do not share the same style of clothing. According to European tradition, even ordinary household linen napkins or cushions should show their own family's letter logo, which is to reflect that the brand provides them with unique products. This kind of consumption thinking runs through every detail of European life.

Westerners do not like to share their shopping experience with others, but prefer to be alone in the store and designer communicate. In this process, the relationship between designers and customers is gradually established. This kind of relationship makes the advanced customization born more than 100 years ago continue. {page_break}

　 People closest to advanced customization

In fact, in the traditional clothing consumption demand, the Chinese also have the tradition of "customizing" or "customizing". However Clothing customization In contrast, Chinese customization is more like the product of an era when products are scarce and the garment industry is underdeveloped. In the old Shanghai era, there were a group of Ningbo people who had unique skills in clothing production. These people were tailoring clothes for dignitaries or for the three religions and nine flow bodies on the beach of Shanghai, which spread the reputation of "Red Sect Tailors".

In the history of modern Chinese clothing, "Red Band Tailors" left a long historical track. At the end of the 1950s, in order to make the state leaders dress appropriately in various diplomatic occasions and show the spirit of the state leaders, a group of tailors, including the "Red Sect tailors", who had become famous in the old Shanghai era, came to Beijing in response to the government's call. In the factory set up by the government, they both make the best clothes for the national leaders and provide design patterns for the industrialized ready-made clothes.

After comparing the history of European advanced customization, many people believe that "Hongbang Tailors" are the closest to European "advanced customization" designers in the early history of Chinese clothing. Of course, this statement is more like an expectation of the Chinese people. In fact, the development history of advanced customization in China needs further empirical research.

The arrival of "Hongbang Tailors" in Beijing and the rise of the garment industry in China have had a certain impact on the development of China's local high-end customization. When the Chinese dress problem is solved, people no longer have to go through the tedious process for a new dress. The era of first pulling the cloth and then waiting in long lines to find a tailor to make clothes is gradually fading away. At the same time, the custom of clothing customization is gradually fading away. Until now, most people have been used to buying clothes produced by popular ready to wear brands. {page_break}

　 After the return, hope for the right to speak

Since the word "ready to wear" appeared in the middle of last century, not only the craftsmanship of tailors has been weakened, but also the tailor shop, which provides a place for customization, has gradually faded out of the stage of garment production. However, with the trend of luxury consumption in China, when Chinese women and celebrities with wealth and power are rising, the concept of exclusive private enjoyment advocated by advanced customization is gradually accepted by more and more people.

From the psychological perspective, the inherent "private" concept of human beings and the impulse of certain specific classes to keep a distance from the public aesthetic taste are the ideological basis for the generation and inheritance of advanced customization. Historically, every revival of advanced customization is directly related to the degree of social and economic prosperity.

Now, various "high-end customized" products in China have returned strongly, accompanied by luxury, exquisite design and expensive prices. China's excellent Clothing brand Smelling the business opportunities, some enterprises regard advanced customization as an opportunity to improve brand services and product quality. They have adopted the business model of high-end clubs, trying to make more high-end consumers have a deep understanding of the brand in the process of promoting the concept of advanced customization, so as to achieve the transformation and upgrading of the brand.

In fact, the return of advanced customization in China is not so much a renaissance as an inevitable result of its shift to the East after the decline of advanced customization in the West. Since this year, international brands have deployed in the Chinese market, which has shown that there is indeed a large market for advanced customization in China.

For talented designers, advanced customization is the ultimate dream of every fashion designer. Lawrence Xu, known as "the first person in red carpet dress", is one of the most popular designers in the field of high-end customization in China. In Lawrence Xu's eyes, high-end customization has begun to revive in China, but the Chinese people seem not ready for this new luxury sport. Because the Chinese people have not clearly defined the minimum standards for advanced customization, most of the time, advanced customization is just a promotional gimmick made by brand names. {page_break}

More than ten years ago, the famous designer Liu Yang tried to promote the concept of advanced customization in China, but the results were not very optimistic at that time. Liu Yang said in an interview with our reporter that at present, the biggest challenge of advanced customization in China is not technology or fabric, but that China has no voice in advanced customization.

However, with the change of market consumption trend, the popular elements, concepts and styles of western advanced customization have begun to absorb elements from the East, especially the cultural elements of China. This is a positive signal for designers and brands eager to seek voice in the field of advanced customization.

　 Big difference in production

Readymade clothes: products of the industrial era, which are made according to the proportion of human body, and then produced in large quantities by industrial production lines. It is characterized by low cost and low price.

Advanced ready to wear: Compared with industrial ready to wear, it emphasizes the designer's style, pays attention to the brand concept, and has more shapes, specifications, and fabrics. There will even be some manual addition in the production process and decoration details. It is more expensive than industrial clothing.

Advanced customization: Focusing on the customer's sense of exclusivity, it emphasizes the designer's personalized service, including the exquisite fabric, precise three-dimensional cutting and fine handicraft production. Value cannot be measured accurately. {page_break}

　 One hundred years of high definition to China

From the Palace of Versailles in the 18th century to China in the 21st century, the art of advanced customization has been shining in the corridor of time for more than a century. Historically, every revival of advanced customization is directly related to the degree of social and economic prosperity. When Chinese women and celebrities with wealth and power are rising, the concept of exclusive private enjoyment advocated by advanced customization has become an inevitable demand for them to pursue good taste and extraordinary social influence. Looking back on the development of advanced customization, we can find the root of its growing popularity in China.

　 Act I: Originated from the European royal family in the 18th century

In the 18th century, the custom fashion was increasingly popular among European royal families. In 1774, in Paris, the headquarters of high-end customized fashion, Queen Mary, the "French Empress", appointed Rose Potty, a female designer, as her "fashion minister". For the next 12 years, Queen Mary spent 2 hours every day revising the trends in Versailles. It can be said that from the very beginning, advanced customization is the "private" life of the minority at the top of the society.

　 Act II: The "Father of Gao Ding" Conquers Paris in 1858

In 1858, Charles Frederick Worth, an Englishman, opened the first high-end fashion shop tailored for customers in Paris - House of Worth. Since then, the two elegant French words "Haute Couture" have become the exclusive title of "advanced customization", and modern people have begun to "enjoy" the clothes that really belong to "me".

　 Act III: Entering the International Stage in 1900

At the Paris International Exposition in 1900, French haute couture formally entered the international stage, and then a large number of real fashion design masters emerged. After the Champs Elysees, Burgundy wines and Parisian women, haute couture became another great contribution of France to the world.

　 Act IV: 1947 milestone: "NewLook"

In 1947, the Christian Dior High Fashion Exhibition was launched. The new design and tailoring made people exclaim "It 'ssucha NewLook", and a new life aesthetics "really ended the Second World War". "NewLook" has become a milestone in the history of fashion, and also clearly defined the status of high-end customized fashion as the vane of human fashion life.

　 Act Five: The Golden Age of the 1950s

In the 1950s, with the rapid development of post-war economy, high-end customized fashion ushered in a golden age. There are many brands and design masters engaged in advanced customization, and celebrities from all walks of life flock to it. The advanced customization of this period has cast many monuments in the history of fashion. Cristobal Balenciaga, the "Picasso of fashion industry", is a representative of the golden age of high-end customization.

　 Act VI: The Elegant Age Begins in 1953

One afternoon in 1953, Hubert De Givenchy met the newly famous Audrey Hepburn for the first time. From then on, he found a lifelong inspiration Muse, which opened an elegant era in the history of advanced customization. The lifelong friendship between the two people also made a beautiful story in the history of fashion.

Scene 7: Industrial ready to wear challenges in the 1960s

The 1960s was a decade of anti tradition prevalence. The surging tide of the industrial revolution took away all the complicated and handmade things. The status of high-end customized fashion was greatly challenged by the rapidly developing garment industry. People's love for high-end customized fashion shifted from fashion to jewelry, showing a bright and lasting charm.

Act 8: In the 1990s, Gao Ding's "Western Learning Spreads to the East"

In the 1990s, the world fashion pattern was surging, and high-end customization was declining in the West. At the same time, in the East, China's newly rich class rose, and "NoLogo" gradually became a fashion. They found a higher quality of life in high-end customization - to show people their different identities with their own clothes.

　　 Act 9: 2007, shocking and rejuvenating

In 2007, high-end customized fashion, which had been dormant for a long time, burst out in various international first-line shows, and modern people in a hurry slowed down again to enjoy those dreamy "works of art on their bodies". The spring of high-end customization came back. At the same time, more Asian faces were added to the audience under the T platform, indicating the arrival of the "China era" of advanced customization.

　 Act 10: Advanced customization in China in 2012

There are striking similarities in history: with the advent of the "era of private enjoyment" in China, just like the European royal women in the 18th century, China's newly rich women and celebrities have put forward new consumption demands for clothes. They not only demand the guarantee of clothing quality, but also demand to express their distinctive personality. In March 2012, SongofSong Songzhongge and OBBLIGATO Origado brands under Yinger Fashion Group took the lead in launching advanced customization services in China.

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