Comparison Of New And Old Standards Of Down Garments

With the development of internationalization and the development of market economy, China's investment in the development of down products has been increasing, which brings opportunities and challenges to the development of the down market.

Changes in industry development and market demand will further standardize the production and sale of China's down products and promote the continuous improvement of the quality of down garment products.

In October 31, 2011, the state issued the GB/T 14272 - 2011 "down garment" [1] (hereinafter referred to as the new standard), instead of the GB/T 14272 - 2002 "down garment" [2] (hereinafter referred to as the old standard), and was formally implemented in February 1, 2012.

In order to better understand the implementation of this standard, this paper compares and analyzes the contents of the new and old standards by using a comparative method, and lists the main differences between the two standards for discussion.

1. The scope of application has been revised.

The new standard modifies the application scope of the standard.

Fabrics were changed to textile woven fabrics as main fabrics, and feather down as stuffing to feather down as main fillers. The "main" modifier was added, and "batch production" was deleted.

By emphasizing that the fabrics are mainly "textile woven fabrics" and "duvet as the main stuffing" clothing, the application scope is more clear, so as to avoid the situation of standard misuse.

2. Normative citation files are different.

First,

The standards are basically quotes from the era, that is, the latest standards are quoted. Secondly, the new standard has added new standards of reference (see Table 1), and has perfected the normative reference documents.

At the same time, some reference standards are deleted in the new standard, and the testing method is directly stated in the appendix of the new standard.

3. Add terms and definitions.

The new standard has added 23 terms and definitions, such as feather, down, Duffy, cashmere content, oxygen consumption, Streptococcus faecalis, infant clothing, etc., through the standardization of terms and definitions, to make the standards clearer and avoid ambiguity and misunderstanding arising from different understandings in the process of standard use.

4, increase and modify the technical requirements of the product.

4.1 instructions for use

The instructions for the use of finished products have been increased according to the requirements of GB 18401, that is to say, the basic safety categories of clothing are marked, and the name of the filling, the amount of cashmere and the amount of cashmere filling are marked.

4.2 fillers

The regulations were implemented according to the appendix A requirements of the new standard; the new standard filling items were classified as adding 55%, 65%, 75%, 85% and 95%, and the corresponding requirements for the indexes of fluffiness, oxygen consumption, residual value, cleanliness and smell; the requirement for residue rate was changed from less than 1% to less than 1.3%; the feather and feather processing plants sometimes used the feather and down of immature animals, taking into consideration the actual situation of the processing plant, the requirement of fluffiness was reduced by 1.5cm; the number of long haired slices, the content of colored plush and the content of Lu Qinmao were also reduced in some names including the amount of cashmere, and the standard indicated that when the oxygen consumption was less than 10mg/100g, the microorganism was not tested. The new standard increased the check of the content of the pile and the residual ester rate, and its index was requested by FZ/T 81002.

4.3 appearance defects

The new standard summarizes the assessment indicators of different fabric appearance defects, increases the assessment requirements for holes, wear and cobweb defects, explains the extent of defects allowed in each part, defines the unobvious defects, and modifies the allowable existence of yarn defects and spot defects in various parts.

4.4 sewing

In the needle spacing density requirement, the requirement for sewing thin thread is explained, that is, sewing thread 20 tex and below.

Thereby standardizing the assessment requirements for needle spacing density.

5. Physicochemical properties

5.1 fiber content

The old standard stipulates that the composition and content of the raw materials used for finished products should be consistent with the contents specified in the instructions. The new standard increases the labeling requirements for the composition and content of the finished products. The allowable deviation of fiber content is specified in accordance with FZ/T 01053, and the formulation is more clear and perfect, which is consistent with other garment standards and is easy to determine.

5.2 safety performance indicators

Taking into account the implementation of GB 18401 and the requirements for integration with the international "green" regulations, in addition to the old standards of formaldehyde content, pH value and dry wet resistance color fastness index, the new standard also supplements the assessment of basic safety technology items such as water fastness and decomposable aromatic amine dyes, and stipulates that no specific value is specified for formaldehyde, pH value and decomposable aromatic amine dye indicators, all in accordance with the relevant provisions of GB 18401.

5.3 color fastness

5.3.1 increased water fastness index.

Color change: superior grade is more than 4~5 grade, first class is more than 4, qualified product is more than 3~4 grade; stain color: superior grade is 4 or more, Grade A is more than 3~4, qualified product is more than 3.

5.3.2 color fastness test method is more clear.

The color fastness to soaping is GB/T 3921, and the experimental condition is A (1). It is pointed out that the water fastness and soaping fastness are made of single fiber fabric.

5.3.3 separately puts forward the evaluation index of color fastness to soaping, water resistance and dry friction.

5.3.4 fabric to reduce some color fastness assessment index

In the old standard, there is no distinction between fabric and linings, and the allowable grade of grade one and qualified color fastness are the same.

The fastness to acid and alkali perspiration is not specified in the new standard. Generally, as long as it meets the requirements of GB 18401, all indicators in the new standard will be slightly adjusted.

Most of the items involved in adjustment have been reduced to half level.

It can be seen that the new standard reduces the color fastness of down products.

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Color fastness requirements of 5.3.5 new infant clothing

The new standard makes clear requirements for the color fastness of infant garments, and stipulates clearly that the color fastness of infant garments shall be carried out according to FZ/T 81014 regulations.

5.4 degree of crack

5.4.1 clear test details

According to FZ/T 20019-1999 "test method for seam opening of woolen woven fabrics", the area of gripping clamp is not specified in the old standard. The new standard clearly stipulates that the effective clamping area of the clamp to the sample is 2.5 cm 2.5 cm.

Changes in 5.4.2 test load

The applied load of the old standard and inner materials is (100 + 5) N, and the new standard stipulates the test load of the garment face and the inner material respectively. It points out the specified load of the silk garments under different weight conditions.

Record and determination of 5.4.3 results

According to the new standard, the experimental results are illustrated: if the yarn slips out of the sample, the test results are slipped. If the fabric breaks, the fabric is torn or the seam breaks, the result is recorded as fabric breakage, fabric tear or suture fracture.

And the new standard is clear. The results of the test show that the fabric breakage, fabric tear or suture fracture phenomenon is qualified, and the phenomenon of slippage is judged to be unqualified.

The old standard does not mention the record and determination of the above results.

Strength of 5.4.4 trousers' rear crotch joints

The new standard has cancelled the strength requirements for the crotch joints of finished trousers.

5.5 increased child safety performance assessment

Children's safety was not assessed in the old standard.

Due to the lack of assessment of children's safety performance, children's clothing has been repeatedly recalled. The new standard has increased the safety standards for children's tops and belts. GB/T 22702-2008 "Safety specifications for children's tops and belts" and GB/T 22704-2008 "Regulations for the design and production of children's clothing to improve mechanical safety". This series of standards focuses on the safety performance of children's small components and parts, so as to avoid children's dangerous accidents as the main principles and basis, stipulating the safety specifications for children's tops, the safety requirements for using children's ropes, the safety requirements for ropes and belts, and the implementation specifications of children's clothing materials, design and production.

At the same time, the new standard stipulates that the adhesion force of infant garments, such as clothing, sewing, strength and buttons and other non removable accessories, must meet the requirements of FZ/T 81014-2008 "infant clothing" standard for safety performance.

Through the assessment of children's safety performance, the standard application scope has been perfected and the development of the international market has been complied with.

5.6 anti drilling property

The new standard increases the assessment of the anti drills, and determines the fabric grade according to the number of the surface of the fabric, such as feather, down or flying silk, and determines the fabric that is directly tested against the down.

6. Classification rules for inspection

The new standard removes the general type inspection of the finished product inspection classification, modifies the content of the product quality defect determination, and makes a more detailed and clear distinction between serious defects, heavy defects and light defects, which is conducive to the identification of defects by the tester.

The requirement for judging the appearance of a single item has been revised. The first class requirement is changed from "serious defect number = 0 light weight defect number = 0 light defect number < 7" to "serious defect number = 0 heavy defect number = 0 light defect number < 6"; qualified product requirement is changed from "serious defect number = 0 heavy defect number = 0 light defect number < 10" to "serious defect = 0 heavy defect number = 0 light defect number less than 0", and deleted "serious defect = heavy defect number of defect is less than the number of light defects". "

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There are three categories of old standards: appendix A, B and C.

Appendix A is a test method for seam opening degree. Appendix B is a schematic diagram of the sampling location for the strength sample of the down seam seam. Appendix C is a test method for filling.

Because the new standard has deleted the normative reference document FZ/T 80001 water feather feather test method [3] and FZ/T 81002 washed feather feather down [4], the feather and down physical and chemical indicators and feather feather related indicators test methods are illustrated in the appendix.

The new standards include appendix A to F six categories, adding appendix A "physical and chemical index requirements of feather and down", appendix C "feather and feather test method", appendix E "test method of fabric anti drilling and testing method of friction test" and appendix F "goose and duck Plush microstructure".

Appendix A explains the physical and chemical indexes of feather and down and the hygienic requirements of microorganism.

Appendix B "finished product filling test method" modified the balance precision of 0.5 g, the test environment standard atmosphere is temperature (20 + 2), humidity (65 + 4)%, the sample needs to reduce the humidity at least 24 h to balance in this standard atmosphere, and the test under the same atmospheric conditions, it is clear that the weighing measurement value is exactly 1 g.

The calculation of the amount of cashmere has been a hot topic for many years. In order to solve the disputes in the calculation of the cashmere content of the down garment products, the new standard provides a unified stipulation for the calculation of cashmere content in Appendix C.

The percentage of cashmere filling is 90%, the amount of cashmere content is 90%, and the amount of cashmere content is only checked for negative bias, and the addition of the check is also made. The pretreatment environment of the bulking test is defined, and the sample is put into the constant temperature box of (50 + 5) C for pre wet treatment, and the sampling requirements for the test sample are revised. The residue rate determination provides that the water bath can be heated to about 50 degrees, the reflux time is changed from 5 h to 4 h, and the oxygen consumption measurement is changed from 10 g to (10 + 10) g. The unit of oxygen consumption in the calculation formula is changed from mg/100mL to mg/100g; the odor determination increases the sealed sample placed at room temperature for H; the microbial colony unit is changed from CFU to 1H. Feather and down content test method: two times separation sampling quality 0.2 g velvet, velvet silk and feather silk weighing. When cashmere content is calculated, when cashmere occupies less than 90%, the amount of cashmere should be

Appendix D revised the test environment of "the test method of seam slippage", the sampling location of the sample, the humidity control condition of the sample, the loading load and the test results.

Appendix E "test method of fabric anti drilling and testing method" is introduced in detail.

GB/T 14272 - 2011 "down garment" standard has increased the assessment of product safety technology and children's safety performance. It has improved the items such as the degree of crack, the amount of cashmere, and the degree of fluffiness. It has changed the appearance defects and sewing items to varying degrees, and standardized the terms and definitions.

The formulation of the new standard is in line with the development of the international market. It is forward-looking and embodies the principles of advanced technology, economic rationality, safety, reliability and coordination. The standards are more perfect and reasonable, and the level is obviously improved. It can provide better technical basis for product production and trade, but some details still need to be improved and perfected.

Because the new standard does not make explicit requirements for the appearance of products, the assessment requirements of such indexes as bulkiness and salvage rate are relaxed, which puts forward stricter requirements for internal control of enterprises, and enterprises should make reasonable decisions based on their brand positioning.

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