The Process Of Making Woolen Sweaters
Woolen knitted garments are knitted sweaters with wool as their raw materials. Their main characteristics are extensibility and elasticity.
Therefore, it can stick to the human body without hindering the movement of human body, and has good softness and warmth retention. Therefore, it is comfortable to wear and has excellent wearability.
Here is a brief introduction to the processing and making process of sweater.
(1)
Wool knitting process
The wool yarn enters the factory to the raw material inspection, the preparation project, the knitting engineering, the garment engineering, the finished product inspection, the packing and the warehousing.
After the raw material is put into storage, the test and testing department will pick up the samples in time, and check the yarn density, evenness and other items.
Most of the wool yarns entering the factory are in the form of twisted yarns, which must be passed through the winding process to make them suitable for the knitting of flat knitting machines.
After weaving, the semi finished garment piece is inspected into the garment making process.
According to the technological requirements, the garment production workshop is mechanically or manually stitched. According to the characteristics of the product, the garment process also includes finishing processes such as napping, knitting and embroidery.
Finally, they were tested, ironed, reprocessed, graded and packed.
(two)
The purpose of raw material testing is the deviation of line density, evenness, moisture regain and color fastness of raw materials, which directly affect the quality of products.
Therefore, when testing the raw materials and finding problems, the process can be revised in time, and technical measures shall be taken to prevent the quality of the finished products from affecting.
(three)
The purpose and requirements of the preparatory process are sent to the woollen sweater factory. Most of them are skein yarns. They can not be knitted directly on the knitting machine. At the same time, there are various defects and impurities on these yarns which will affect the quality and output of the knitting.
Therefore, the purpose of the preparatory process is to twist the twisted yarn into a cylinder to suit the needs of yarn unwinding in knitting production, remove the defects and impurities on the surface of the yarn, and make it smooth and smooth. According to the technological requirements, wool yarn is twisted and combined to improve the yarn's fastness and the thickness of wool fabric.
When winding, the elasticity and elongation of wool yarn should be kept as much as possible, requiring uniform tension and unwinding.
(four)
Knitted sweater knitting equipment, type of knitting and garment inspection, knitting is the main process of sweater production, its knitting machinery has flat knitting machine and circular machine two kinds.
Because the flat knitting machine has many advantages, such as increasing the number of needles to knit the clothes that are suitable for the human body, it can be finished without cutting. It saves raw material and reduces the working procedure, and has many changes in flower pattern and variety.
However, due to its fast speed and high yield, the circular machine has attracted more and more attention from some manufacturers.
According to the type of knitted sweater, it can be divided into two categories: full forming and cutting.
The fully formed knit is to use needles and stitches to achieve the shape and size required for each part. After knitting, garments can be made without cutting, and most of them are used for weaving high-grade products with animal fibers as raw materials.
The cutting class can be divided into two parts, one is local cutting and the other is overall cutting. Local cutting is usually done on the shoulder and sleeve tops by step stitch (needle removal) process, and then locally trimmed to obtain the desired shape and size. The cutting loss is small and the output can be improved. This method is used to weave all wool top knitted fabric, jacquard tissue and other high-end products.
The overall cutting generally refers to the desired shape and size after cutting through a circular knitting machine into a piece of cloth. In this way, the cutting loss is large and is generally used in low-grade raw materials.
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(five)
After the machine is produced on the flat knitting machine, the machine must be tested piece by piece to meet the requirements before entering the garment making process.
The contents of the garment piece inspection include the size of the garment sheet, namely, the length of single chip, the length of the rib, the number of clamping gears, the number of times to receive the needle, the weight and appearance quality of the sheet, and the appearance quality includes the needle leakage, the flower needle, the edge single wire and so on.
The density and specification of the test piece should be carried out after the film is fully retracted.
During the knitting process, the clothing piece is subjected to longitudinal stretching of the wire drawing board and hanging hammer, and the tension of the braiding. The density of the garment piece and the actual size of each part are quite different from that of the finished product. Therefore, after the machine has been laid for a certain period of time, it does not shrink back to reflect the actual density and specifications.
However, the natural shrinkage (relaxation shrinkage) method is longer. In practice, various external pressure methods are often adopted, such as shrinking, shrinking and curling.
(six)
Knitted sweater is used to connect collar, sleeve, front and back body, buttons, pockets and other auxiliary materials. Some of them are also decorated with wet finishing methods and embroidery methods, so that the garments have certain style and characteristics.
The general process flow of the garment is: sewing pieces, semi-finished products inspection, knit button, lock button, ironing, garment inspection, 2. garment technology requirements (1) stitching requirements: the stitch of sweater should be stretched and strong with the shirt body, and the rate of elongation is 130%.
In principle, stitches must be the same as woolen sweater materials, color and yarn linear density. Combed yarn is the suture of carding products and sewing lines.
The bottom line such as flat seams and slots should not be Overtwisted. It should be soft, elastic, smooth and strong enough.
(seven)
Shrinkage requirements: the finishing process is a wet finishing process. It is made use of the shrinkage characteristics of animal fibers to make the fibers expand and soften after being dampness and heat. Under the action of friction, it shows short pads, feels full and improves appearance.
It is applied to cashmere sweater, rabbit sweater, wool sweater and other combed products, and combed products can also be washed at room temperature or for short time to improve appearance.
Parameters such as auxiliaries, temperature, bath ratio and time should be selected properly. Otherwise, if the shrinkage is excessive, the batches of products will be felt and can not be made up.
In the process of milling, the degree of milling should be checked halfway, and the suede standard samples should be compared to prevent excessive shrinkage.
(eight)
Ironing: the purpose of ironing is to make the product stereotyped, maintain the characteristics of the design, smooth and smooth appearance, and feel comfortable.
When the iron is pressed, the sweater can be sheathed on the sample to ensure the standard size. The setting temperature of the sweater is usually between 120 and 180 degrees.
In the process of ironing, sweater should be pumped to cool down and reduce humidity.
In recent years, there are more and more stereotyping machines, which are made up of automatic elevating hot plates and fixed blanking plates. The time of setting (steam time and residence time) is between 4S and 30s, and the efficiency is much higher than manual ironing.
(nine)
Product inspection, product inspection is a comprehensive inspection before the product is released.
There are three specialized processes in the sweater inspection work, including reappearance, sorting and grading, which include appearance quality (size tolerance, appearance defect), physical index (single weight, needle ring density), inner and outer packaging, etc.
In the process of finishing, a few defects, such as oil stains, residual grass chips and slits, which can not be removed, can be repaired at any time.
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