Origin And Classification Of Overcoats And Selection Of Fabrics

About 1730, men's coats appeared in the upper classes of Europe.

Its style is usually in the waist lateral splicing, waist waist fit, then called dress coat or long coat.

In 1820s, the overcoat became a daily life garment. The length of the coat was slightly below the knee, the big lapel, the waist type, the single row and the double row.

Around 1860, the length of the coat changed to knee length, the waist part had no seam, the lapel was narrowed, the collar was covered with velvet or fur, and it was mainly made of padded bags and made of coarse fabric.

The women's coats appeared around the end of the nineteenth Century. They were developed on the basis of women's Woolen long coats. They had long body length, large lapel, waist style, and mostly velvet fabrics.

Western style coats were introduced into China in the mid nineteenth Century.

Classification of coats

Coat can be classified according to length, fabric, purpose and so on.

1, according to the length of clothing, there are 3 kinds: long, medium and short.

Below the knee length, it accounts for about 5/8+7cm of the total height of the human body. The length is up to the knees or knees. It accounts for about 1/2+10cm of the total height of the human body. The length of the body is slightly below the hips or hips. It accounts for about 1/2 of the total body height.

2, in accordance with the use of ceremonial ceremonial dress clothes; with the cold wind and cap wind and snow coat; both sides can be worn, both to protect the cold, rain protection, dual use coat.

3. A coat tailored to the material used as a thick material; a fur coat tailored with animal fur; a cotton coat made of cotton cloth for surface, inside material and middle cotton; a leather coat tailored with leather; a spring and autumn coat (also called a coat) made of leather, trousers, Codding, Hua Dane and other fabrics; in the middle of the two layer, the down coat, etc. (and the circle of woolen coat), the characteristics of this material are thick and warm, the plate is not easy to wrinkle and avoid frequent ironing troubles and feel very feeling on the body.

The specific characteristics of the coat and its washing and maintenance

The characteristics of coat

1, the overall characteristics of the coat.

Appearance.

Generally good woolen coat is soft and smooth, smooth and oily, such as pure woolen fabric and chemical fiber fabric. There are obvious differences in appearance: pure wool color is soft and shiny, while the chemical fiber is luster darker; pure wool has soft handle, chemical fiber is stiff and not soft; pure wool has good elasticity and good recovery, while the chemical fiber is relaxed and has obvious wrinkle marks.

Under sunlight or strong lighting, the less the pimple coat is, the better the color should be uniform, the gloss should be soft, and the surface should be smooth.

For worsted, tweed, Verdin, Hua Dane and other worsted fabrics, the surface should be smooth and neat, and the texture is clear and neat.

Touch.

No matter what kind of woollen coat, it should be soft, smooth and oily. Feel free to let go of it. The fabric should be opened immediately or slightly wrinkled, and it can gradually heal itself.

Knead with both hands. The surface should not be fuzzed. The shorter the short fiber, the better.

For woolen overcoats such as camel hair and plush, they are required to be upright and flat. They can not touch the hair with their hands. They can not have the appearance of bottom, bald, velvet, or high and low density.

The specific characteristics of all kinds of overcoats

Hua Dane: it is one of the important varieties of worsted fabrics.

Style and characteristics: it is smooth, smooth, no fuzz, straight and straight, smooth yarn lines, smooth, waxy, plump, flexible, strong and wearable.

The luster is natural and soft, without Aurora, and looks more solemn.

Serge: Serge is a traditional worsted fabric.

Style and characteristics: soft and light, rich handle, good elasticity of body and bone, fast and durable.

Tweed: tweed is the most colorful and most organized product in worsted fabrics.

Using all kinds of combed colored yarns, flower twisting and thread inserts to make warp and weft yarns, and using plain weave, twill, skew or double weave and other tissue changes and combinations, it can make various surfaces, striped, small jacquard and color hidden bar effects.

According to its weight, it can be divided into three types: thin, medium thick and thick tweed.

(1) the weight of the fabric of thin tweed is generally less than 280 grams per square metre, and it is usually woven with plain weave.

The handle is slippery and glutinous, light, thin, elastic, good in shape, elegant in appearance, elegant in color and elegant in temperament.

2. The fabric weight of medium heavy tweed is usually between 285~434 grams per square meter.

It is divided into glossy and hairy.

It is characterized by its natural luster, rich color, bright and pure, smooth and smooth hands, and flexible body bones.

Suitable for making suits and suits.

(3) the thickness of the fabric of thick tweed is usually over 434 grams per square metre, and it has plain and thick tweed and mixed colour and thick flower.

It is characterized by its solid texture, rich body bones and good elasticity. It is suitable for making long and short coat of autumn and winter.

Vari Martin: also known as thin wool, style features: it is straight and flat, bright and uniform, glossy and natural, soft, smooth, smooth, flexible, wrinkle resistant, uniform yarn evenness and good air permeability. It is suitable for making summer suits.

Silk and camel silk: the ideal high-grade fabric for professional wear. The style is smooth and delicate, the handle is smooth and smooth, the luster is natural and soft, and the structure is tight without hairiness.

It is the most stereoscopic effect of worsted fabric in the worsted fabric. Its style is characterized by its smooth finish, clear texture, good drape and smooth waxy elasticity.

Worsted fabrics also include: Alice, Harrods, breeches, Merten, flannel, coats, ladies, etc.

How to maintain the overcoat?

Introduction: the fabric of woolen garments is pure wool, and wool blended with other fibers. According to the amount of wool contained in fabrics, the grade of woolen garments is determined.

Before 90s, woolen garments were in a prominent position in all kinds of garments and belonged to high-grade garments.

But with the continuous improvement of textile technology at home and abroad, according to statistics, there are nearly 1000 kinds of woolen fabrics on the market, all kinds of high school and low grades, and woolen garments have entered the stage of mass consumption.

Wearing: woolen clothing is worn for a long time, easy to produce elastic fatigue, and does not restore the original shape, causing deformation and aliasing.

Therefore, the clothing can not be worn for a long time. After wearing it for a period of time, it should be allowed to rest for a while, so that the elasticity of its clothing can be maintained. When the clothing is collected, it should be dusted, dried and stored.

Clothing should be carefully worn. If damaged, small holes should be repaired in time to avoid further expansion.

Keep the fabric clean and keep the high-grade quality of the fabric.

Collection: woolen clothing is easy to attract worms. Therefore, in a long time, it is necessary to put moth proofing agent into the suitcase or wardrobe to ensure the safety of clothing.

Woolen clothing has strong hygroscopicity, so in the rainy season, we should often provide ventilation or air drying to prevent mouldy deterioration.

When you are drying, you should avoid strong light or expose the sun to avoid fading.

We must not pile up in random places. We should pay attention to protecting the shape of clothes and hang them with clothes hangers to avoid distortion and aliasing.

Washing: woolen fabrics may be slightly faded according to the amount of wool. Generally speaking, the higher the amount of wool is, the greater the possibility of fading. Dark clothing and other dark clothes are more likely to fade. For dry clothing with high wool content, dry cleaning is recommended.

Using warm water to add a little salt can lighten the fading. So when you first wash dark colored woolen garments, remember to wash them individually so as not to pollute other garments.

Washing a woollen coat is easy.

But dry cleaning clothes have many side effects.

First, dry cleaning agent four vinyl chloride will affect the health, in addition, some non-standard dry cleaners disinfection is not strict, will cause two pollution of clothing.

Washing? Some woolen overcoats with high wool content will shrink and fade.

How to clean it? We must first look at the fabric composition and treat it differently.

Most of the fabrics with the highest exit rate this season are purified fabrics, which are not easy to shrink and fade.

For woolen woollen overcoat with high wool or wool, choose dry cleaning as far as possible.