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Listening To Professor'S Clothing Culture From Ancient Times To The Present

2012/12/17 19:09:00 13

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Clothing Culture World Clothing History Costume Design

Speaker: Hua Mei .
 Introduction: : Professor of Tianjin Normal University, Hua Mei a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_f.asp", director of the dress culture /a school, is now a member of the National Committee of the Chinese people's Political Consultative Conference. She has published 56 works, including the culture of human clothing, clothing and Chinese culture. 
 reading hint: 
New P is not enough. Novelty must be accompanied by scientific nature. At the same time, it must be deterministic and logical. Blindly pursuing new things can not achieve the level and purpose of academic innovation. 
 when people want to enter social life, their social role image is the person who puts on their clothes -- the wearer or the dress image. 
It is unthinkable for P to say that there is also a special service in the season, which shows people's desire for perfect life. 
 what is clothing? This word is equivalent to clothing. That includes clothing, accessories, makeup, and accessories. Clothing is a covering, such as covering the trunk of the main clothing, plus the first clothing, foot clothing; accessories are mainly decorative, such as head flowers, hairpins, bracelets, waist chain, etc.; makeup can be traced back to ancient times, painted skin, or acupuncture, hot marks, cutting marks; the following parts are all kinds of bags, sabre, sabre, even handkerchiefs, umbrellas...... 
 from this point of view, human beings can not be separated from clothing for a moment. Even though the nude is a pure tribe, there are still animal necks and feathers on their heads. It can be applied to the dress system related to political rule. In China's "twenty four histories" and "Qing history draft", there are ten books in history. We can live in the public, and we can't live without clothes every day. Why? We are social beings. Maybe the natural attribute determines that people need air, water and food, but social attributes determine "clothing" first. 
, then, how to study clothing, real research can not only stay on the aspect of dress and dress, nor can it only involve the material function of clothing. So, in 1995, I put forward a theoretical research system of "human clothing culture", consisting of six parts, namely, the history of human clothing, clothing sociology, clothing physiology, clothing psychology, clothing and folklore and clothing art. So far, we can say with pride that this system is correct and necessary. It is different from the general discussion of dress culture, and it avoids people paying much attention to its fashion. 
 the academic innovation of dress culture /p >
 1. Dress culture research should dare to renew the knowledge system /p >
 no matter how people comment on the inevitable progress of today and the past, human history will always open up a new page. Therefore, academic research, including natural science and social science, to dress culture, must constantly update the social consciousness and observation perspective. Taking twenty-first Century as an example, microelectronics, optoelectronics, computer science and so on have enabled people to enter the age of information and intelligence. Natural science has begun to study from molecular level, gene angle and complex system. Can the cultural research in this big situation continue the past model? Can we do this? 
 from 1930s onwards, European and American anthropologists began to study costumes, and basically formed the pattern and appearance of the history of clothing in 70s. As a result, the history of clothing development in a country or region appears frequently and is regarded as a standard mode. European and American scholars have published a large number of a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp" > world clothing history < /a > books, mostly based on western Germany, France, Italy and Britain, and traced back to Egypt and Mesopotamia. Since 80s, Chinese clothing history books have been published in succession, usually from the primitive society, the Xia and Shang Dynasties to the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China. That is to say, in the past decades, a variety of clothing history books have been published, and people have become accustomed to the division of dynasties and events in a country or region. Such as China's Tang, song, yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, the western Vitoria era, Japan's peach mountain era and so on. 
 in the "human clothing culture", the concept of the history of human costumes is put forward. From the time of the grass skirt, the era of animal skin, the age of fabric loading, the age of costume shaping, the era of dress customization, the era of dress entering into each other, the era of dress renovation, the era of dress stylization, and the perfection of clothing have been replaced by the era of dress internationalization. This is equivalent to breaking the conventional linear thinking mode from concept and reflecting the way of clothing that mankind has gone through. Why should we say this? First, the era of the global village and the world can no longer be satisfied with the simple view of other countries in their own countries. The cultural behavior and artistic law of all mankind need to be examined with the height of integration. Two, under the impact of the wave of new technological innovation, the social sciences are expanding from the conventional layer to the macro and the Cosmo level, and deepening to the micro level. 
Mr. Jin Zhe, the authority of the research on contemporary new subjects, said that from static scientific research to dynamic scientific research, from conventional scientific research to creative scientific research, from closed scientific research to pioneering scientific research, from general reference transplantation to interpenetration of internal relations, it is imperative to combine experience summarization, historical introspection, tracing pursuit and advanced consciousness closely. At the Tianjin Normal University, a seminar on "development strategy and Prospect of clothing culture" was held. Mr. Kim and 90 scholars from all walks of life across the Taiwan Straits were invited to come. According to Mr. Jin Zhe, the book "the study of human costume culture" is "a landmark work" for this new theory. "For the first time, we will sublimate the old and new topic of dress culture as the height of the discipline, explore the law of human dress culture, reveal the mystery of human clothing culture, open up new fields, establish new systems, build new disciplines, formulate unique practices, and make new breakthroughs in clothing culture." The new proves the vitality of prosperity. Only innovation can make academic research contribute to cultural undertakings. {page_break} 
 two, dress culture should be promoted from plate theory to blending theory /p >
 generally speaking, plate theory is formed by the accumulation of history, thus forming an inherent research mode. In this basically stable field or category, countless people or generations have been searching for it in dozens or hundreds of years, until the maturity period has been recognized. This is often referred to as discipline, such as aesthetics, sociology and so on. 
 the original intention of academic innovation includes the promotion from the theory of plate to the blending theory, because the expansion of research to the wider direction often requires cross penetration among different disciplines, merging and interacting with each other. 
For more than a few years, people think that dress is part of art. After entering the modern age, it always loves a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_h.asp" > dress design < /a > into art design. In fact, dress adornment is material, and its creation process seems to be more of an element of art, and when the costume is worn on the wearer, and people form a complete dress image and enter into social life, it is not simply a work of art. Because people create clothes, the materials, colors, patterns and styles of clothing are not accidental. They not only reflect the level of human productivity directly, but also reflect the aesthetic psychology and artistic talent of human beings, especially reflecting the difference of times and social regulation. In short, clothing production and even the wearing process is a comprehensive result of human cultural behavior. In this sense, how can clothing be discussed in terms of clothing itself? This is not a matter to material process, but a process from spirit to matter and then back to spirit. The essence of dress is precisely the cross and integration of human cultural spirit. 
 in the research, it is found that a baby is born naked. It is the first pattern of people to be wrapped up in clothing culture to wear a small coat or wrap around a baby. Clothing is an art. As for what is covered in the bag, it is obvious that the custom is decided by the times because of the region or the village. A small pocket should be covered with a navel to avoid catching cold. This is about physiology. It is psychological for the elders to express their wishes for the newborns in the form of hand or gift. In the Chinese Book of Songs, there is "a man who is born in the bed of a bed, carrying clothes, and carrying it." "It is a woman, a place to sleep, a garment to carry, and a tile to carry." That is to say, a boy should be put on a bed when he was born, put on a dress for a ceremonial dress, and play it for his jade article, while the girl was born to cover the quilt and put it on the ground to play the spinning wheel for her. This is evidently based on social thought and imprinted with deep Confucian thoughts, which is different from national and art. Dress culture is to solve this kind of thing correctly. It needs "structural interdisciplinary". Three, the study of dress culture should allow for the dynamic development of multi-dimensional thinking. 
No doubt, modern science and technology has formed a highly integrated and highly differentiated situation. The vertical and horizontal deepening, gradual change and sudden change and even rebound, consolidate traditional positions and develop new fields, alternate with each other, coexist or go hand in hand with P. 
 Social Science, which is at the same time as natural science, must emancipate the mind and establish a new knowledge system and knowledge theory. Because only new is not enough, novelty is accompanied by scientific nature, at the same time, it must be deterministic and logical. Blind pursuit of new achievements can not achieve the level and purpose of academic innovation. Pavlov said: "science advances with the achievements of research methods. With the advance of the research method, we will step up one step further, and then we will open up a broader prospect with all kinds of new things before us. 
 multidimensional thinking is a basic condition for academic innovation. It is precisely because of the multidimensional nature that it has made the current social science research clearly appear "scientific and cultural". Since 2005, I have organized eight works, namely "dress politics", "dress art and literature", "dress science and technology", "dress economics", "dress pedagogy", "dress military science", "costumes archaeology" and "costumes and ethnology". Although it has lasted for six years, there are still three immature parts. In the process of writing, we must understand that the multidimensional thinking is new. We must allow its dynamic development in research. Never satisfied and never slack off is the overall spirit of ensuring the constant innovation of dress culture research. 
 the popularity of dress culture 
 if there are many hot spots for us to think about the popularity of dress culture, when we first entered the twenty-first Century, there was an assertion in the international academic circles that the most developed subjects in twenty-first Century should have three conditions, one is the whole human race, the other two is interdisciplinary, and the three is close to the people's life. At that time, I had been doing research on clothing culture teaching for nearly thirty years, so I thought that dress culture just had these three points. 
 first of all, it is human beings. At least on this planet, there are clothes wherever there are crowds. As far as it has been concerned, clothing is never a single existence. Dress culture has always appeared in an interdisciplinary way. In today's era, we should let all people raise their awareness of clothing culture, because clothing is close to people's life. 
 for this point, dress culture is logical and handy, because no matter how ancient and modern Chinese and foreign people are, people always can not do without clothes. The ancient emperors wore them, but now the heads of state wear them, but civilians wear them all the time, and they must wear them every day. Even if there are seven things to open, wood, rice, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar and tea, I am afraid I must wear clothes before opening the door. This is a deep feeling in the process of my research. For example, pen, ink, paper, inkstone, known as the "four treasures of the literary works", do not necessarily mean that every civilian can not live without, or that there is no such four routine life. The four treasures of the literary works are of the upper class. They are almost the same as Qin, chess, books and paintings. Although the common people can draw a few strokes, there are many folk artists, but the days without Qin, chess, books and paintings are still good. Clothes are different, clothes are absolutely close to people's life. 
 dress is also different from other arts, such as painting, calligraphy and sculpture. Even wine culture and food culture can easily distinguish the subject and object. Before painting, people are the main body of aesthetics. Works are objects, people can appreciate and evaluate. After the end of aesthetics, people or people, paintings or paintings. Wine culture, food culture is the same, people are appreciating, people are tasting, and objects can not transform into subjects in any case. Clothing is not, people create clothing, which can separate the subject and the object. But when people want to enter social life, their social role image is the person who puts on clothes -- the dress or the clothing. This is inseparable. 
 why can we distinguish grades from clothing? Don't mention ancient emperors' costumes, princes, doctors, and scholars have dress codes, styles, colors, patterns and ornaments of clothes, clearly indicating the status and level. Nowadays, rank and rank belong to the display function of clothing accessories, or clearly indicate the identity and status of the wearer. Even if the pattern remains unchanged, will the top suit and the ordinary dress suit the same? Its fabric, workmanship, and tiny buttons will show differences and show respect. Therefore, it can be said that the emperor is dressed and beggars are clothed. It can not be said that clothing is not only human but also close to the life of the people, but there are differences in the image of different classes and occupations. There are political factors and economic reasons. 
 why can it distinguish the times, nationalities and regions from the new year's wedding dress? This is the dress culture. Happy things wear red, funeral wear white, this is highlighted in the Chinese Central Plains Han people's life, the west is not. Europeans are newly married to wear pure white gauze to express purity, while mourning wears a black dress to express sadness. Who can tell why? We can quote the necklaces worn by China's top cave people in Zhoukoudian, Beijing twenty thousand years ago, coated with hematite powder, made of animal teeth, gravel and shells. They can be linked to the red cloth used by folk spirits, and even the "old man under the moon" is using a red cloth to tie the feet of a couple, so as to show that red is regarded as evil spirits and auspicious. We can also point out that Europe's religious belief is that white wedding dress is more noble, more holy, more pure and beautiful. In fact, it is a sense of folklore. The culture of one side of the party is one of the cultures of one side. Because of this, a bright and colorful culture makes up the history of human beings and the history of clothing. Without these things, they will be powerless. {page_break} 
 I have studied clothing culture for thirty years, and I deeply feel that dress culture can be profound and universal. 
 the cultural glamour of public clothing /p >
 clothing system is part of the social system, including carriage and honour and clothing. The deep meaning of Chinese traditional culture is clearly manifested in the articles and regulations in the history of public service. Some of these connotations are non hierarchical and universal, such as reverence for heaven and earth (natural worship), and hope for ancestral worship (ancestor worship). Some interpret what is "a great event in the country" from the perspective of imperial power. Therefore, it also reflects the importance of the use of force and the field of silkworm breeding. Ming Shih, from the idea of "Yan Ju, Yi Wei Bian" and so on, sets out the desire for a perfect life. 
 such as offering sacrifices to heaven and earth, this is human's reverence for nature. The first cultural connotation contained in the history of public service records was that the rulers first paid much attention to offering sacrifices to heaven and earth. As we all know, human beings live in the embrace of nature from the primitive society stage, and feel the good and bad, gifts and punishment of nature. People do not know how nature is formed, but really feel the sky and the ground beneath them. 
 later, these sacrificial sacrificial ceremonies such as Bi, ring, Huang and so on become the adornment on human body. People want to pray for heaven's protection through costumes. 
 again, such as the worship of the tomb, this is the expectation of our ancestors. Throughout the history of world civilization, primitive religions have entered a new stage of development in areas where the main mode of production of mankind has changed. This is naturally related to the stable settlement life brought by agriculture, and the increase in population caused by adequate food supply, thus further generating a larger human community and a more complex social structure. Like American scholar Ralph and others, "the progress made by wandering and uncertain groups to the social organization of villages and even cities is, in essence, the progress of all kinds of activities that are functionally gathered from food to produce food and even to stabilize food supply." In these expanded groups, the dual family gradually formed, people began to be able to identify their own father, paternal clan society on the stage of history. According to the different importance of kinship in this society, "worship and worship of religious beliefs of their ancestors" is produced, that is, ancestor worship. Swanson, a cultural anthropologist of the United States, once discussed the relationship between religious belief and social structure. He stressed: "ancestor worship is related to the social structure that expands the family's important position. This kind of society is often based on settled agriculture." 
 in the traditional Chinese society after the Zhou Dynasty, ancestor worship played an important role in the religious system. In the last thirteen years of the Western Han Dynasty, the ancestor worship of Gao Zu was the earliest national sacrifice. Since then, since the Eastern Han Dynasty, the ancestral activities of the rulers of the dynasties have all proved the intention of their justifications and played a positive role in the realistic politics of the Eastern Han Dynasty. In this activity, the costumes of the Pilgrims and their followers have detailed provisions in order to show solemnity and seriousness, such as the book of Hou Han Shu Yu Zhi Zhi: "an emperor of the imperial prince, Prince Edward gaizu temple, the ancestral temple, the door doctor from, crown two Liang Jin Xian; wash horse crown mountain. When the temple is set up, it is not suitable for the emperor to serve as an official. There are divisions under the matter. Shang Shu Chen Zhongzou: "the doctor of the gate is like an admonish doctor, and a horse washing duty is like a servant, so he takes his clothes and the old emperors. Dialects are bedtime. "Yes." It is not difficult to see that the rulers of the past dynasties did not dare to neglect the ceremonies of the worshiping temple, for fear of being affected by a little impropriety. The dress regulations were obvious, and there are quite important signs of political order. 
 there is also a search and rescue mission. This is the regime's reliance on force. For a country and regime, the mobilization of armed forces and the decision of military operations are vital events. Therefore, in the traditional political system, the emperor is the supreme commander of the armed forces. How to express the importance of military actions through clothing has been clearly expressed in the history of public service records, especially the wearing of Wu. 
 another must not be negligent in the field of silkworm breeding, which shows people's dependence on food and clothing. China is traditionally a typical agricultural country, and the production of grain and non-staple food has strategic value. Sericulture is the main source of Chinese silk fabrics, which is representative or long enjoyed for a long time. The two have been supporting the financial operation of dynasties for thousands of years. Therefore, how imperial power reflects its importance to the two requires some specific and symbolic activities, and these activities also have specific clothing that matches them. In the book of the annals of the Han Dynasty, the note says: "the historian says," the emperor of Han Dynasty edicts the cloud: "agriculture is the foundation of the world. He opened the fields and plowing them to make the temple flourishing. Ying Shao said, "the emperors used to plow thousands of acres of land to make the world first. The emperor's Classics are also common. And the custom of Ying Shao Tong said, "the ancients make the people borrow, so they call it" Tian Tian. " Zheng Xuanyue: borrowed words. Wang Yigeng has made all the people die. In ancient Chinese rites, every March, the queen would come to host the sericulture ceremony to pray for a good harvest of mulberry. In Zhou Li, Tianguan inner Si, he wrote "Ju Yi". Han Zheng Xuan notes: "Ju Yi, Huang sang Yi." Color is like dust, like mulberry leaves. Lu Shi Chun Qiu Ji Chun Ji wrote, "it is the moon, and the emperor is the emperor." Henkel lure: "inner service" chapter: Queen's six clothes are chrysanthemum clothes. Clothes yellow, such as chrysanthemums, so called chrysanthemum clothes. After Han Shu, the records of the emperor, Empress Dowager and queen empress have silkworm clothes. In the Tang Dynasty six classics, when speaking of the Queen's essential ceremonial dress, the second category is "Ju Yi", which is used to "serve the silkworm." In the Ming Dynasty, it was changed to red, the dragon pattern of Zhijin before and after, embroidered or paved with jade, and decorated with beads. After the Ming Dynasty, the pro silkworm system disappeared. 
 it is unthinkable that there is also a special service for Ji Yan residence, which shows people's desire for perfect life. In the ancient Chinese clothing system, the official costume of a special official or a woman at home is called "Yan Fu" or "Banquet", and its shape is simpler than that of offering sacrifices. Wen Wu 100 officers can wear this dress to see and see each other, but they can not be used for sacrificial ceremonies and grand meetings. First seen in the Book of Songs, there is "private clothes" theory, and later almost all records in the history of public service records. In the Song Dynasty Ye Meng's "Stone Forest Yan language" also mentioned "Yan Fu". 
In the period of Jiajing, Ming Shih Chung accepted the advice of Zhang Cong, in order to achieve the goal of "living in the house, and to distinguish" and so on at home. In the seven years of Jiajing in the Jiajing period, in the name of "Yan Ju", he used the meaning of "deep palace alone, and Yan an as the precepts", and promoted the emperor's clothes as emperor's regular clothes in the past year of the Jiajing period of P. It is recorded in the Ming history and public service records: "Jiajing seven years, changed the Yan Fu clothes". In the early days, Emperor took the crown clothes of Yan, and was still following the custom. He took the text of "the book of Rites" and "Xuan Di Shen Yi". The emperor set up his system for reference. He said, "beyond the crown, it is the most widely used. From the end of the emperor to the emperor, the life of the state is also served. Deep clothing is from heaven to the common people. Today, it is not easy to make the old system, but the clothes are yellow. The emperor said to the Ministry of Ritual: "the old and the mysterious are commonly used. Because of the ancient system, it was renamed "Yan Ju", and it was in the deep palace alone, with Yan an as the precept. 
"P", which is represented by Yan Ju, is still worn by Yan Ju Ju, but its shape and decoration still highlight the authority of the royal family, especially in the form of traditional Xuan dresses. The reason is that the Chinese believe that although there are no rules at home, Confucians must pay attention to etiquette at all times and everywhere. The use of deep clothing is to emphasize following the ancient system. By the time of Qing Dynasty, Fogg wrote in the volume six of listening to the rain, "military aircraft,... Over the past decades, the industry, commerce and industry have all adopted the system of "Yan Fu". Yan Ju and special clothes show that the desire and pursuit of perfect life in ancient China is never ending. 
 the Ming Dynasty, Wen Yi Yan Yan, the clothing of cranes complement /p.
 by showing the charm of costumes, the beauty of Luo is revealed. 
 Hua Mei's book "history of Chinese clothing" 
 > Emperor Yongle Emperor of the Ming Dynasty, "/p".