The Most Influential Fashion Designer In The Era -- Raf Simons
< div style= "text-align: left; line-height: 18pt" align= "left" > before being interviewed, it has been told: < span > Raf Simons "hard to get". I don't think so. I believe he must be a sensitive and gentle person. It is evident from his tears Jil Sander farewell show. Sure enough, when he saw Raf Simons himself, he shakes hands shrug with me in a Helmut Lang black jacket and dark blue jeans. Unlike his cold and forward design, the Raf Simons in front of him has a kind of shy gentleness and sincerity. His assistant told me a very lovely detail: Raf Simons has been using the same mobile phone number for the past 15 years, and sometimes he even answers the phone call of the studio himself. He was very low-key, rarely interviewed and refused to reveal his private life. People only knew he had been in contact with designer Veronigue Branquinho for several years. Fortunately, he now has more and more courage to unmask the mask: "I am Capricorn, the life of this constellation is serious, but the older you are, the more relaxed you are." Raf Simons said, "I'm getting more and more outgoing now." In a word, we started our topic. < /span > < /div >.
< div style= "text-align: center; line-height: 18pt" > b > ten years of fashion bad elements < /b > /div >
< div style= "text-align: left; line-height: 18pt" align= "left" > span > "Redux" has the meaning of coming back from afar, which is the title of the autobiographical book published in 2005 by Raf Raf. In his own words, it is a look back to the previous design career. From 1996 to 2006, he quietly insisted on the marginalized design of men's wear in the fashion circle. "My men's clothes have been labeled with too many" revolutionary "labels and left the left wing of the fashion world crazy for 10 years. He shook his head and said innocently. The establishment of the revolutionary leader status of Raf Simons in the men's clothing industry originated from the "fourth character" image created by him, even the youngsters who failed to get the civil rights. They may be the catcher in Salinger's false mouthpiece of the wheat field, or perhaps the young blood on the ground of Su Tong's "Toona Tree Street". Raf Simons as the curator of the 2003 Florence fashion Biennale in Italy, the theme is "fourth sex: extreme youth". This topic, which had been frayed earlier in other fields, made him the first person in the fashion world to realize this awareness. The boys of Raf Simons are more destructive in shape and throw away the mobs of punk sports. From then on, he was regarded as a "bad element" in the fashion circle. He could not play with scissors, but let the fashion take a whole street. How many designers can cut new ideas like Raf Simons? < /span > /div >
< div style= "text-align: center; line-height: 18pt" > b > > a little bit less /b > /div >
< div style= "text-align: left"; "line-height: 18pt" align= "left" > span > Raf Simons those black shoulders with very thin shoulders were once born, and they had hidden ambitious clipping experiments. As for the brilliant deeds after Hedi Slimane's entry into Dior Homme, it is not worth showing off. Raf Simons has already done all of its work in 5 years. 40 pounds of Karl Lagerfeld, which has been losing weight for the Dior Homme clothing, can be widely used today: "fashion is made for people under 48 yards." However, Raf Simons began to run a yard more than half a yard per hour, and the cloak did not need to be said that the sweater cuffs covered by the shoulder line were over thumbs, the wide trousers were not big enough, and the trouser belt almost reached the chest, which gradually made a lot of fans poison him. {page_break} < /span > /div >
< div style= "text-align: left; line-height: 18pt" align= "left" > for this, span span Raf Simons laughs: "not everyone has a standard body like model." Every minute of his life is about precision, or lengthening cuffs or widening his shoulders. He is a good young man who has an aesthetic pursuit. The topic pause, and Raf Simons suddenly nodded in a self affirmative manner. "Men's clothes are much more complicated and challenging than women's clothing," she said. This is what I have been trying and exploring, and it has more restrictions than women's clothing. < /span > < /div >.
< div style= "text-align: center; line-height: 18pt" > b > when it is simple to meet elegance < /b > /div >
< div style= "text-align: left; line-height: 18pt" align= "left" > these two seem to have no obvious tacit understanding, but < span > Raf Simons is obviously a high rank player. After a year of Dior, the time he took over was already at stake. Even he himself said, "the appointment of Dior has led me to think about what I have done in the past 17 years, and how to make myself coexist with Dior. I think it is a challenge." It can be said that hiring Raf Simons to design is the greatest decision of the Dior brand in twenty-first Century. For his current work, he obviously enjoys it: "I am more interested in the design and production mode of women's clothing, and how clothes look, how and how they are materialized." His design eliminates unnecessary structure and color, but does not appear monotonous. It has a simple but tempting taste. Make a pleat, cut a knife and print a picture in the most suitable place. The romance he created is like a woman's self pleasing side, fresh and elegant but not too close, calm and less amorous. He did not repeat the John Galliano style flashy drama. He was even more silent about the future design, and was forced to hurry. He simply said, "if I only have minimalist brushes, then I will never come to Dior." < /span > < /div >.
< div style= "text-align: left; line-height: 18pt" align= "left" > in the interview, < span > Raf Simons has been repeating: "I am not a fashion designer." Not only because he did not really learn fashion design, but also because he seldom cares about fashion. "I will go to places that are very Robinson rafting. I also do ordinary things like watching movies and staying with friends. He is better at observing all the stories and emotions behind them and interpreting them. There is a saying that "his clothes are not just good-looking, but full of feelings", which is probably the most appropriate evaluation of Raf Simons. < /span > < /div >.
< div style= "text-align: center; line-height: 18pt > > b > the goal is real independence < /b > /div >
< p > < span style= "font-size: 10.5pt" > Raf Simons says: "I am a big boy at home." He came from the town, in the face of the series of "revolutionary" acts, in fact, is another kind of nameless romance. Perhaps this gives him a different perspective, refusing to use professional models, and those mediocre young people's original ecology, who are following the target "picking" after wandering from the streets of Antwerp. In this regard, he rarely said a joke: "I want to take a big car chirp people to Paris show, in addition to those who have never seen anything in the world Street mixture, each model also brought a young and old, together into a" family friendly "family tour group. Raf Simons concealed himself behind the teenage models, and eventually gave the general manager job to others. For him, the fashion kingdom he founded is based entirely on psychology and sociology, rather than just a simple dress. "I want more space for myself. My goal is to be independent, whether in work or in spirit." In the spring of 2006, Raf Simons offered a series of Jil Sander women's clothes, which were almost swamp. Therefore, the audience of the mainstream fashion circle saw the true colors of Mount Lu. < /span > < /p >.
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