The Domestic Market Still Has No Consensus On The Standard Of High-End Customization.

The habit of "custom-made" dressing that seems to be reviving has long been lost for P.

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< p > "gentlemen, you seem to have misconceptions."

In 2013, China's "a target=" _blank "href=" http://www.91se91.com/ "clothing" /a "Association's" men's clothing advanced custom development forum ", when the local clothing boss with Shandong accent and Wenzhou accent talked about the Chinese men's wear advanced customization, Patrick Patrick, the owner of the Norton and father's son (Norton&sons), from the Saville street and the" first gentleman of the UK ", said that" in 2006, the Saville Street senior tailors Association officially released a set of fully customized standards, of which there is an unusually clear definition of full customization.

Full customization means that every a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > clothing < /a > should be manually tailored and hand sewn according to the requirements of the guests. At the same time, the tailor must have 20 years of experience to qualify for advanced customization.

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Such a harsh voice, P, is doomed to faint because the rules of the game are being reinterpreted by the Orientals.

With the "first lady" travel dress becoming a hot topic of public concern, "exceptions" and "useless" two brands quickly become hot search words on the Internet.

You will find that China's high-end customization is bringing together a new force that makes people look at the world.

Although according to the view of the western counterparts, "Chinese customization" is not really "custom-made".

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< p > according to Zhou Yiqi, Deputy Secretary General of the China clothing association, although Chinese clothing was custom-made before, the watershed began in 2009. Men's wear began to diverge after the popularity of western style clothes. A group of enterprises began to do business leisure and fashion leisure, and the other one developed to advanced customization.

Some of them mainly undertake overseas customization, while others focus on the domestic market to develop VIP customers.

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< p > large-scale industrial production makes the garment industry face homogenization competition, and is also the reason for the rise of high-end customization.

"(enterprises) are constantly opening up and expanding the market. The rising of raw materials and the increase of labor costs make prices rise, and the emergence of new channels for online shopping has a great impact on the existing brands.

A store that relies on distributors to sell goods will have stocks once it is sold.

However, advanced customization faces no more inventory pressure than the more sophisticated customers.

Combined with these circumstances, we can judge that advanced customization is the trend in the future.

Zhou Yiqi said.

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< p > YOUNGOR has set foot in its custom business since 2001 and opened its first volume shop in Hangzhou.

In 2009, the high-end brand MAYOR was set up. It means "mayor a target=" _blank "href=" http://www.91se91.com/ "dress < /a >, positioning administrative civil servants tailored, and opened nearly ten brand stores in the country in more than a year.

At the same time, Wenzhou's benchmarking enterprises, Chuang Ji, Dayang Chuang, Georges Bai, Ya Pao Lang Di, Ray Tibor and so on, have begun to set foot in the advanced customization business in the development process.

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< p > Beijing based Jacob Langdi has made its own custom since 2009.

In this year's Clothing Fair, there are also specially designed stand booths. Most of these garment companies serve the financial industry and state-owned enterprises.

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< p > however, analysts pointed out that "advanced customization" is very strong in testing the strength of garment enterprises, and requires that its research capability, design level, technology content, production process and product quality should be improved. This requires enterprises to be top notch in the industrial chain, technical equipment and talent team.

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< p > therefore, most companies are studying customized systems and platforms. When the system is complete, there will be a rapid rise.

But the problem is that there are still great differences in the understanding of advanced customization in the current market.

The red collar, who has always been an overseas client, came from Qingdao, and began to try high-end customized services for men's clothing ten years ago.

Zhang Daili, chairman of the red collar group, believes that "most of the" advanced customization "in China stays at the stage of speculation.

Zhang said that the standard of Chinese men's clothing should be tailored in the way of Saville street, England.

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< p > according to the standard of Saville street, the highest specification customization is Bespoke, which is tailor-made from head to toe. It ensures that every guest has her own unique version, whether it is a three piece suit (top coat, trousers, shirt) or four piece suit (top coat, trousers, shirt, coat or vest), or even leather < a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > shoes < /a >.

However, the old custom and long clothing period can no longer meet the modern dressing requirements. Most of the customization is semi custom, that is to say, we should add personalized elements on the basis of tailoring, such as the choice of fabric, the choice of barge, the selection of wool lining process, and the requirements for buttons, chest bags, embroidery and so on.

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< p > "I think the first thing that China's advanced customization industry should do is to give a clear concept to the advanced customization and semi customization, and make the standard so that consumers can understand why he needs to spend so much money to buy a piece of clothing and what services he can get."

Patrick Grant indicates.

"Britain has a history of 200 years in the field of full customization. It is not easy for China to set standards in such a short time, but it needs such a standard."

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< p > in fact, China does not lack the tradition of tailoring. The question is how this tradition will return after the wave of the clothing industry.

Unlike previous tailoring times, advanced customization is designed for a person to fit the personality and temperament of a person. This includes many ideas. Unlike clothing, 90% of the work in advanced customization requires manual completion.

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< p > most domestic garment enterprises do not have much custom rules and standards, which can be distinguished from the standard number of ready-made garments, and clothes for customers to make their own bodies, plus some personalized design elements are the most basic criteria.

Zhang believes that at least the whole custom, semi custom or simple dress should be customized. "Customizing is to dress the customer in his own clothes, suit his clothes, accord with his personal taste, habits and dressing occasions."

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< p > red collar has made many attempts. In order to control the rework rate within 2%, it is necessary to make a great deal of detail and foolproof in the early stage.

From the order production to the completion of the finished garment production, a set of tailored suits for the red collar needs an average of 298 processes (15 hours manual process).

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< p >, but Hong Huang, founder of BNC, thinks that if we refer to foreign standards, men's clothing is more suitable for customization. The connotation of advanced customization should be the concept of women's clothing.

The custom of women's clothing has a special vocabulary in foreign countries, Haute Couture. The Paris Fashion Association of France requires that "a target=" _blank "href=" http://www.91se91.com/ "designer" /a "and its fashion shop must be certified by the association, and its clothing can be called" advanced customization ".

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< p > compared with men's wear, women's wear is much more complicated.

Zhou Yiqi introduced that domestic women's clothing is very rare in pure high customization, most of them are mainly designer brand, such as exceptions, Guo Pei, most of the service stars.

"For women's clothing customization, it is a more cumbersome process. If we make rules, we may need a group of people to serve another group of people."

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< p > take designer brand Guo Pei as an example. She once served as the designer of Beijing Olympic Games dress. Every year the CCTV Spring Festival Gala hosts and the main actors 90% of the Chinese costumes are from Guo Peizhi's hands.

Guo Pei said in a media interview that China did not have any real (women's) advanced customization in the past until around 2009.

Guo Pei believes that there are many standards for advanced customization, first of all, the program standard, emphasizing communication and uniqueness, followed by plate making, cloth sample, three-dimensional debugging, trial and semi-finished products, commissioning and other six or seven links.

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< p > Hong Huang thinks that tailor-made will return.

Customization has always been one of the ways that Chinese people buy clothes.

To tell the truth, buying clothes is a new thing. After the reform and opening up, it has never left our life.

Hong Huang said to Chinese entrepreneurs, "we can make some guesses about whether we should make a return to tailor made.

I think (customized) will return, because the rich age, the uniform size of clothing can not meet their requirements.

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< p > what you need to see is that even in Saville street, advanced custom based on gentleman culture is declining.

In the age of "You are the way you look (people like clothes)", only wearing a custom is a gentleman, emphasizing high quality fabrics, dressing a lot of rules and adding months of long wait, which makes the custom full of upper class ritual.

But modern clothes have left the old custom tailored. Saville Street's tailor shops have been languished, and the tailor has no choice but to switch jobs.

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At P, the great era of China's good tailoring is probably just beginning.

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