How Far Does Chinese Style Go Before Local Designers Become Famous
China's GDP is rising, and the cultural industry will inevitably develop with it. Maybe one day Chinese fashion will be mature and prosperous, and design masters coming out of China will also be sought after by the world, and their works will also be worshipped by global trendsetters as works of art.
Apart from the perspective, the current domestic situation is that, in the words of Mao Jihong, the founder of the "Exception" brand, "when I was in college, I learned more and more clearly that China failed to pass the clothing designer To create an industrial chain of clothing. There is no Chinese clothing brand, let alone Chinese design, Chinese creation and Chinese clothing culture. "
Girls who often go shopping and shoot websites must be familiar with such words as "European and American style" and "Japanese and Korean style". People who are more proficient in French chic and Italian fashion will also count the characteristics. Fashion experts are also discussing the "anti fashion" of Japanese designers and the design sentiment of breaking away from birth, as well as the avant-garde of Ant Hewlett Packard designers. So we should not only think about the continuous progress of Chinese design, what is the real Chinese style?
Shiatzy Chen, the first person to go out of Asia to the world, founded the brand in 1978 and entered the international market in 1984. In Shiatzy Chen's design, the Chinese mark has always been very strong. Embroidery, silk, small cotton padded jacket and improved cheongsam full of Chinese charm have all joined a strong Chinese traditional clothing element while catering to international beauty. To be fair, the elements of cheongsam, embroidery and so on have decreased a lot in Chinese clothing today. The new generation of post-80s and post-90s generation are not as interested in traditional embroidery as their parents. On the contrary, modern things such as printing and plaid are more beautiful in their eyes.
However, Li Bingbing, who became a hot topic in 2010, wore the "Hundred Fortune" dress at the Venice Film Festival, the vase earrings designed by Chinese jewelry designer Wan Baobao, and Fan Bingbing's "Dragon Robe" and "Blue and White Porcelain" dress, which eventually faded out of our sight in the initial acclaim, "showing off Chinese elements", "no aesthetic" and other curses. The rote copying of traditional Chinese elements is obviously untenable.
Unique independent designer
The brand SANKUANZ, founded in 2007 by Shangguan Zhe, a designer from Xiamen, and a friend, has become a hot brand in mainland China with the tide of literature and art. Shangguan Zhe's design is fresh and simple, does not follow the trend, and gives a feeling of tranquility and freshness. The clothing style includes Japanese style, and the color is mainly black and white, light pink and light blue, with occasional bright colors. His clothes It is special enough that it also sells well in Taobao's exclusive online shop, which is obviously the style that many literary and artistic fashion lovers nowadays pursue. Shangguan Zhe's clothes add modern and popular elements to make them fashionable enough, while maintaining their own independent and fresh Asian style, so that they can be seen clearly in pure European and American clothes.
The brand "La Vie", founded by Shanghai designer Ji Cheng in 2002, has a similar idea. Ji Cheng, who studied design in Milan, Italy, has obvious Chinese marks in his works. For example, her latest series this year takes the "Tea Classic" as the theme, and fashion blockbusters are like ink and wash paintings. Models are sitting in boats and boating in lotus pools. The well-designed clothes have no contradiction in the traditional and simple pictures. Ji Cheng's inheritance of Chinese style may be more in a freehand and refined style like traditional Chinese painting. Compared with the flourishing Chinese embroidery, this way of expression may be more in line with the aesthetic pursuit of current Chinese people. The clothes designed by the "La Vie" show in London in autumn and winter of 2012 also received media attention and praise. Some media said Ji Cheng was "Soft handed Vivienne Tam".
Similar brands include the low-key Chinese independent brand "JL", which strives to innovate on the basis of inheriting the traditional Chinese style. Its design is mainly simple and simple, and it is easy to see that it is a Chinese tradition Clothes & Accessories It has nothing to do with the current fashion trend.
Overseas Returned Designers Going International
In recent years, Masha Ma, Qiu Hao and Uma Wang, among others, have also gained a certain reputation internationally. Compared with the designers mentioned above, their style is more international and their aesthetic is more similar to that of Europe and the United States.
Uma Wang's clothes are full of deconstruction and minimalist style. Her clothes can be seen in high-end boutiques around the world. After winning the British "Fashion Fringe" award in 2012, Wang Haizhen, a designer from Dalian, who attracted much attention this year, was invited to participate in the Shanghai Fashion Week in autumn and winter of 2013, and the fashion show was arranged at the end.
St. Martin in Britain has become the dream palace of many Chinese students, and more and more Chinese students have entered this dream holy land. Uma Wang people have received international elite education, and have proud achievements. They have closely interacted with foreign media. They have established themselves internationally and entered the international market as Chinese designers. They also believe that they have an international design language and value design and beauty itself.
Their works are more in line with international taste, and their design vision is also directly oriented to internationalization at the beginning. In fact, few ordinary Chinese people can afford to design on behalf of China, and even many people do not know how many of them are.
Local brands for the public
There is a passage in the movie "The Devil Head of Fashion", Miranda, the female devil head, said when explaining the influence of fashion on her assistant Andy, "Oscar de la Renta launched a series of dark blue dresses in 2002, then Saint Laurent showed a series of dark blue army coats, and then dark blue soon appeared in the works of eight other designers, soon spread to the department store counters, and then extended down to the horror of affordable clothing malls." From this point of view, the creativity of the most top designers can lead the trend. As soon as the works are produced, there are countless low-cost brands following suit. The trend is finally reflected by the majority of consumers of PPP products. Therefore, when we discuss "China Style", perhaps we should pay more attention to these brands with more affordable prices.
For example, the Hangzhou brand JNBY, whose products are mostly dark and gray, has a deconstructed and industrialized flavor, slightly similar to the style of Uma Wang. Of course, as a clothing brand opened in major shopping malls, its route is much more friendly to the people. Its recognition is very high. A large number of wrinkles and asymmetric details in the clothes reflect its unique style. But this style of cannibalism is not like a long-term plan. Imagine that if the whole people wear JNBY, will it be a return to the time when the People's Republic of China was founded when everyone wore grey, blue and black?
Another cutting-edge brand facing the mass market is ZUCZUG/Suran, which was founded in Shanghai by Wang Yiyang, a northeastern Chinese. Keep this relaxed and humorous style all the time, try to create a new lifestyle that is widely accepted by the public while avoiding traditional Chinese elements. The lines of plain clothes are more exaggerated, the design is full of bright and relaxed atmosphere, and the brand style is also very obvious, which really makes people stand out. This kind of thing is easy to be accepted by some young people who pursue literature and art and are unique, but for those "fierce" people who like high street fashion and leopard fur wrapping, it may not be attractive.
This year's initiative of Shanghai Fashion Week, several Taobao original women's wear brands were invited to the catwalk, which also attracted wide attention. The stores of brands AMII, Andu, Chuyu, DEAR Li, Love Fish, Milan Declaration, Qigege, Xiaowei, Inman and Piggy are also basically stores with high sales volume. Grassroots original designers have their own ideas in their designs, but in order to consider sales, they will also take into account the current trend, retro, dark, minimalist, what is popular in fashion week, designers will add more. But perhaps we can see the clue from the high sales items. Perhaps the most popular design is the style that Chinese people generally like. Maybe this kind of design can finally become a typical representative of Chinese taste and character, a category different from Japanese, Korean, European and American styles, and also beautiful, which some people are willing to imitate and practice.
In the future, the development of Chinese fashion will take a new turn in who, perhaps only time can give us an answer. In any case, we should have an optimistic heart, believe in fashion, believe in originality first, and believe that local designers will create a better future for Chinese fashion.
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