The 17Th Ningbo International Fashion Festival Opens Prince Charles'S Tailor Show
Blond hair and blue eyes, slightly plump, and a light green suit. When this lady named Phillpa appeared in Hall 6 of the International Convention and Exhibition Center, the scene suddenly became excited.
Ms. Phillpa, who has worked as a tailor in "Henry Bailey" for 12 years in the UK, has the best craftsmanship in customizing suits by hand. But for us who are laymen in clothes cutting, her other identity is more exciting - she is the royal tailor of Prince Charles, the British Crown Prince. She not only helped Prince Charles cut suits, but also "instructed" him to cut clothes.
Yesterday, the 17th Ningbo International Fashion Festival Opening at the International Convention and Exhibition Center. Ms. Phillpa specially demonstrated cutting skills for everyone on the scene.
"Henry Bailey" suits worth 50000 yuan each
The prince has to customize one set every month
If we can see the royal tailor of Prince Charles, we will naturally inquire about the details of the prince's clothing.
Unfortunately, Ms. Phillpa did not answer this question directly. Instead, Mr. Wang Biao, the Chinese head of "Henry Bailey", revealed some details of royal clothing to us. Mr. Wang Biao is also the lead in introducing Henry Bailey into China. He said that Prince Charles' requirements for customized suits were only four words - very high.
Most people wear clothes with matching. But Prince Charles went further and participated in the design at the beginning. When customizing, he will put forward his own requirements - whether to use one button or two buttons for the suit is up to him; If it is a striped suit, the stripe pattern on the pocket must be aligned with the stripe on the dress, and the stripe on the sleeve must also be aligned with the stripe on the shoulder; One more thing, all buttonholes should be sewn by hand.
Another insistence of the prince is that all fabrics must be made in Britain, not imported from Italy and other countries. So, how much is the prince's suit?
Wang Biao said that the starting price of each set of "Henry Bailey" hand-made suits is 22000 yuan, and the price will rise according to the different fabrics and accessories. The price of Prince Charles' clothes is about 50000 yuan per set. He usually customizes one set every month.
Red Sect Tailors vs British Tailors
Each craft has its own advantages, and publicity must keep up
In fact, there is also a proud tailoring skill in Ningbo - Red Sect tailors. The first suit and the first Chinese tunic suit in China were made by the tailors of the Red Sect.
Ningbo is the hometown of Red Sect tailors. Every year at the Fashion Festival, foreign tailors come to show their skills, which is a bit unreasonable. This year, Red Sect tailors also set up a stage on the scene. Compared with foreign tailors, the craftsmanship has no priority. The local red band tailors obviously need to be encouraged in their propaganda.
This year is the first time that Hong Gang tailors have participated in the Fashion Festival by showing their skills. The booth is also in a good position, right next to Henry Bailey in the UK. However, Henry Bailey in the UK is very popular, and "Hong Gang tailors" are ignored. The reporter found the booth of the Red Sect tailors after looking around.
When comparing the two booths, the British "Henry Bailey" booth is obviously high-end and grand, and the "Red Sect Tailors" are a bit rustic.
The 19 designers, tailors and tailors of "Henry Bailey" were dressed carefully and appropriately in suits. Both the cutting table and the sewing table are elaborately decorated, and many sets of sample clothes are also brought. The booth of "Red Band Tailors" just hung some introductions about the technology of "Red Band Tailors", and the on-site cutting table was also relatively simple. No sample clothes made by "Red Band Tailors" were seen on the scene.
So, how do you compare the two technologies?
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Lin Jiao, a teacher from Ningbo Hongbang Garment School, said after seeing the "Henry Bailey" handmade suits, that the "Hongbang Tailors" are slightly better and more sophisticated in the technology of locking buttonholes and bead edges, but in terms of chest treatment, "Henry Bailey" is better. The "Henry Bailey" handmade suits are more plump and three-dimensional on the chest, making people look more robust.
Although the "Red Sect Tailor" is confident that his skill is not inferior to that of "Henry Bailey", the fragrance of the wine has to be shouted frequently.
Britain's top craftsmanship man 's suit Shop and Red Sect Tailor
They are going to open stores in Ningbo in the next two years
In fact, since the first Ningbo International Fashion Festival, "Henry Bailey" has been interested in opening its first store in China in Ningbo. Now two years have passed, when will "Henry Bailey" come to Ningbo? Wang Biao said that the most important thing for Henry Bailey to open stores in China and Ningbo is to have staff.
Earlier, they wanted to come to Ningbo to recruit people to study the technology of Henry Bailey in the UK. Now two teachers have been selected and sent to Britain for training, but this is far from enough.
According to such progress, their plan is to open their first store in Ningbo in 2015, and then stores in Shanghai and Beijing will also open one after another. The "Red Sect Tailors" once had a manual customization shop in Ningbo, which was closed three years ago because of a small customer base. However, next year, the "Hongbang Tailor" manual customization shop is expected to open again.
In the past, tailoring by hand was the most common way of making clothes, but after it was replaced by factory, production line and mass production, tailoring shops that tailored clothes by hand slowly withdrew from the market.
However, in recent years, tailoring and hand customization are making a comeback, but they are taking the high-end route, and the price is much higher than that of ready-made clothes. At present, there are hand-made clothing stores on Heyi Avenue, Yuehu Shengyuan, and Heyi Road in Ningbo, and the prices are very high, usually tens of thousands of yuan per set.
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Popular next year——
Blue green system, Three dimensional fabric
In Hall 5 of the International Convention and Exhibition Center yesterday, more than 1600 pieces of colorful fabrics selected from all over the country silently explained the fashion trend of next year: fabrics full of strange three-dimensional effects are the most fashionable, patterns with retro and national styles are the most widely used, and blue-green systems will be the most popular.
"Today's fabrics pay more and more attention to scientific and technological colors. Like this miniature geometric pattern fabric with texture and flexibility, it looks a bit like a mouse and keyboard, but because of its flexibility, it can show different color effects, which also gives designers more space. The three-dimensional fabric is a popular trend next year." According to the person in charge of the Fashion Trend Center of China Textile Information Center, in order to control costs, the use of pure wool, pure silk and pure cotton fabrics has gradually decreased, and more blended fabrics are used. But even pure wool fabrics pay attention to the micro three-dimensional sense of the surface of the fabric, making the fabric look warmer and more upright, and more durable.
The most popular color next year is naturally blue-green. Different from the color from nature, it is also blue and green. When applied to clothing, it is more "unnatural". The effect of natural color mixing makes the blue-green fabrics more soft, unobtrusive, and more easily accepted by ordinary people.
In addition, the traditional printing patterns with national style will be a big hit next year. The combination of African style and futurism, China's pad dyeing effect and brocade pattern will be more used in fabric design.
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