A Designer Who Became Famous Overnight -- Marco

　　 After "overnight fame", it responded that it was the first time to design a special person.

A few days ago, with the "Chinese fan child" and other nouns being widely concerned by the Chinese people, Guangdong Designer Marco and her "useless" studio have become hot words for Internet search. Mark and his studio expressed feelings and feelings after "overnight fame". clothing The understanding of designer's responsibility.

Beyongd's song "lovers" sounded leisurely -- workers on the Guangzhou garment line were busy, the exceptions of agriculture and forestry under the road were particularly dazzling, Zhuhai studio quiet and peaceful, Paris show mysterious low key... 6 years ago, director Jia Zhangke won the best documentary award of the Venice Film Festival in a documentary film entitled "useless" costume of designer mark.

This is a quiet old house in Zhuhai, Guangdong, where the designer's "useless" studio is located. Recently, the telephone ringing in the studio has been ringing, and the number of emails has suddenly increased.

In the eyes of ordinary people, Mark seems to be "overnight success." However, for this 42 year old designer who was born in Changchun, Jilin, behind the "overnight fame" is diligence and perseverance.

In 1989, mark, 17, was admitted to the Suzhou Silk Institute of Technology (after joining Soochow University) in the Department of fashion design and performing. After graduating from university in 1994, she was assigned to a small clothing company in Guangzhou. Fashion Designer Road. Just in those days, she was 23 years old and won the gold medal of the second China International Youth brotherhood costume design competition by "terracotta warriors" series.

In 1995, she was named the top ten fashion designer in China at the age of 24, and was named "China's five best" designer by Japanese Asahi Shimbun. In the second year, mark founded his own designer brand "exception" and became director of art in Guangzhou.

In February 2007, mark, 35, was the first Chinese designer to launch a press conference on Haute Couture in Paris. At the end of the same year, director Jia Zhangke used the "useless" documentary "useless" to win the best documentary award of the Venice Film Festival, the horizon unit.

In 2013, for 42 year old mark, it is undoubtedly a peak of life. In March this year, Chinese President Xi Jinping visited Russia for the first time since taking office, and his wife, Peng Liyuan, appeared in China's local clothing brand and became the focus of attention all over the world.

On 2009, at the inauguration ceremony of US President Obama, the first lady, Michel Obama, dressed in a dress and red Chinese fashion designer Jason Wu. It was said that mark was the Chinese version of "Jason Wu" and the founder of "Chinese fan".

So far, Marco has never provided personal photographs to the media. Chi Qianqian, a reporter for fashion magazine, interviewed Marco in 2007. In her impression, Marco was a woman who was not very talkative, sensitive and shy but somewhat stubborn and stubborn. This is just like Marco's own interpretation of "useless". "Everyone is pursuing usefulness, usefulness, and even become a prerequisite for us to do things, but the value of immediate usefulness and future is often different. I want to make useless things in people's eyes useful, and I think people no longer use the principle of whether they are useful or not."

　　 Useless studio statement

Thank you very much for your attention to the useless design studio in the past.

Marco, founder of the useless design studio, provided some clothes for Ms. Peng Liyuan's visit to four countries. Clothes & Accessories The design is made up of useless and exceptional production technicians, and the product of this design project will not be sold externally.

Since 2006, mark has focused on useless creation while being an exception in art direction.

　　 Useless design studio

March 28, 2013

　 Dialogue with Marco: "true luxury is in spirit."

Talk about Customization: the most appreciated designer is nature.

Xiaobian: did the "useless" studio undertake advanced customization? How did you customize your dress for Ms. Peng Liyuan?

Mark: this part of my costume for Ms. Peng Liyuan is my first attempt to design for a special person. My understanding of the design of the special person is that the clothing and accessories that suit the needs of the specific object for the specific object under the premise of the designer's personal aesthetic and values. I am responsible for the overall design and production by team members.

Xiao Bian: some people say that you are the Chinese version of "JASON WU". How do you think of this overnight success?

Mark: I will live as usual. All fame and wealth are mirrors.

Xiao Bian: do you have friends to congratulate you? Who are your favorite designers?

Mark: Yes, there are some (Zhu He). The designer I admire most is nature, and there are not two of the 7 billion designers.

Xiao Bian: how do you understand "the world, China"?

Mark: the world is like a human body. Different countries are like all parts of the body. The key is not which country is the heart, which country is the brain or the fur, but each country has different value to the world. Tolerance is the only way to produce harmony, and the premise of tolerance is not self centred. From this point of view, a drop of water is the ocean, and the ocean is also a drop of sea.

Talk about "Chinese children": dress like Chinese clothes

Xiaobian: it is said that Ms. Peng Liyuan's dress has brought a rare opportunity for the development of high-end local brands. It may also make Chinese consumers blindly pursue foreign luxury brands. What do you think of the development opportunities of China's local design?

Marco: good thing! The Chinese can face up to themselves in the mirror. Not long ago, a man asked me: what is "China" fashion? Answer: it looks like a Chinese costume.

Xiaobian: in contemporary China, cheap and low-quality garments are flying everywhere, while the rich are fanatical about foreign luxury fashion. What are your responsibilities as designers?

Mark: today's real fashion is no longer the empty and beautiful packaging that is driven by the trend. It should be the extraordinary thing once again seen in the ordinary. I believe the true luxury is not in the price, but in the spirit of its representative.

I understand that the responsibilities of designers include three categories: the responsibility of inheritance in the past, the moral responsibility for the present and the ecological responsibility for the future.

Moral responsibility means that the designer has the responsibility not to make excessive design, only to properly express, but to stimulate people's sense of desire separately, and try to trigger more blind consumption, with a view to greater commercial interests. The designer assumes the role of social conscience in society. The most essential quality is honesty and integrity, not selling soul for fame and wealth.

Talking about "useless": non brand non fashion public welfare organizations

Xiaobian: from "exception" to "useless", from advanced garment to advanced customization, what is the biggest difficulty of your personal experience in the past 17 years?

Mark: before I was 30 years old, I wanted to know who I am. How did I disappear after 30 years old?

Xiaobian: how do you describe yourself as a designer?

Mark: after graduating from college to ten in early 2000, I learned the fact that there is no shortage of designers who can design fashionable, elegant, sexy and beautiful fashion designers, but there is a lack of real fashion designers. In my dictionary, the meaning of the two words "fashion" and "clothing" is quite different.

Xiao Bian: before you have emphasized that "useless" is a public welfare organization, not a brand, nor a fashion. Why is that?

Marco: there is no business strategy and commodity planning, no target market positioning and business objectives, and no response to all kinds of fashion trends. It has not opened a store for 7 years. It doesn't look like fashion or brand.

Xiaobian: what do you think of the commercial operation and public welfare of the fashion industry?

Mark: at present, public organizations in China are hard to form their own hematopoietic capacity. It is useless to try in this direction. Useless does not exclude sales. If there is profit, we can continue to do public good.