Without LV, It Might Not Become The LV Now.

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< p > to a certain extent, Marc Jacobs in the 16 years of LVMH can represent the operation mode of fashion industry.

Since 1990s, when luxury groups such as LVMH and Kering began their intensive acquisition strategy for luxury brands, the new a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > designer "/a" and their personal brands fell into a leaky net of interest by a luxury group.

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< p > this is a long-term business plan.

Before these young designers were able to build up their careers, luxury groups had taken them to be a creative director or artistic director of a brand, while investing in their personal brands.

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< p > because the cost of creating personal brand is very high, not every designer can find the investment of Hongkong rich Silas Chou and Canadian merchant Lawrence Stroll like Michael Kors. Many young designers need the development funds from the luxury group for their personal brands.

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< p > John Galliano and Marc Jacobs took place in the same year.

Before he took charge of Dior, Dior, who belonged to LVMH, was very popular with politicians and social celebrities.

The design style of John Galliano is very exaggerated and gorgeous, and the experiment is very intense.

Although the new design makes it difficult for old customers to accept, it also makes Dior quickly become an avant-garde name.

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"P" is a great pressure job for the luxury group's brand as a creative director while earning fame and gain.

The first line of luxury brand clothing for men and women needs 8 exhibitions in spring, summer, autumn and winter, early spring and early autumn.

Every two months, a designer will have an inspiration that can not be lost. If we want to take into account two brands at the same time, the pressure will be double.

But Marc Jacobs not only did this, but also made a series of rules for the fashion industry to the public.

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In October 2, 2013, when Marc Jacobs announced its departure from LV and focused on the development of its own brand, we can see what he has done in the past 16 years: < /p > P.

< p > strong > 1, let < a href= "http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_z.asp" > LV < /a > not only sell leather goods < /strong > /p >

In the autumn and winter fashion week of P, 1998, Marc Jacobs released the first series of women's garments that he designed for LV. This series of women's clothing style is very simple, and has been widely praised by fashion media and commentators.

But since LV did not have the foundation of women's clothing, the initial work of Marc Jacobs was not simple.

Before Marc Jacobs arrived, LV did not have a ready-made garment line, so his job was not only to design sketches, but also to organize design teams to win support resources of the group.

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< p > but the biggest difficulty that Marc Jacobs faced at that time was not resources. After all, Arnott, who was willing to pform LV, was willing to invest in the brand.

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< p > < < a href= > http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_z.asp > > Marc Jacobs < /a > the biggest headache is that if we want to link T station with the consumer market and make the design commercialization possible, the most basic thing is to have enough production capacity, but Marc Jacobs's original series designed for LV can not solve this problem.

Wang Liyi, a Fashion Critic in Hongkong, once interviewed Marc Jacobs, who had recently complained that LV could not keep up with the production. After the fashion show, some new designs could only be bought in 6 months.

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P, 1999, two years after Marc Jacobs joined LV, he told the media that LV still had two factories for making garments, and that factories for handbags also needed expansion.

Although to some extent, LV's lack of capacity has stimulated customers' desire for it, in the trend of iteration, customers will not always be interested in fashion that can not be bought.

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< p > < strong > 2, consolidate handbags for LV and contribute less than /strong > /p >

< p > precisely because Marc Jacobs created the women's garment line for LV, and gradually pformed LV into a fashion company.

Although the women's wear line is not a profitable business, it can make handbags sell better.

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< p > consumers may not be able to afford LV's ready-made clothes, but they can be satisfied by buying a handbag with a higher rate of reuse.

LV wants to make this dream easier to achieve, so it has launched a large number of canvas handbags that sell at a minimum price of only a few thousand yuan.

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< p > this strategy is very successful.

Over the years, LV's contribution to sales has accounted for about 50% of LVMH group's overall revenue, while most of LV's sales come from handbags and leather products.

Further subdivision, canvas bags occupy about 35% of LV's handbag sales.

For instance, Luca Solca, director of luxury research at Exane BNP Paribas, Paris's Securities Division, told the first financial weekly that Marc Jacobs has kept LV in this era. The 16 year that he took office is the most important period of LV. During this period, the demand of luxury consumer handbags increased greatly, and LV is the most powerful company in this field.

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< p > a lot of people think of LV, and think of the packages that are full of the Logo pattern of the word "Hua". These products satisfy the needs of customers to show to others, and the other side is criticized as "vulgar and superficial".

In the early days of joining LV, Marc Jacobs also thought of reducing the pattern of the word "flower", but soon found that it was not feasible because the customers in the emerging market needed them.

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< p > but it is not effective for LV to continue to implement such a strategy. Customers in emerging markets no longer welcome Logo products.

LVMH released its third quarter earnings report in October this year, showing that sales of handbags and leather goods dropped by 3.8% compared to the same period last year. Arnott also said at a shareholders' meeting that LV will change its strategy and focus on high-end leather products to reduce canvas utilization.

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The Capucine handbag launched this year (P > LV) is said to have the same type of cortex as Hermes Birkin.

Capucine handbags have been out of stock at stores, so that a long waiting list has been accumulated.

And in September of this year, LV also dug the accessories designer Darren Spaziani from Proenza Schouler, specializing in the design of high-end leather handbags.

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< p > Luca Solca reminds us that LV is not a niche brand. He does not think that it is feasible to rely solely on high-end product lines. For LV, there is a wide range of product lines and a wide range of customers are very important.

Therefore, LV needs to find a balance, on the one hand, the product should be commercialized enough, but on the other hand, it should maintain brand value and customer trust.

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< p > < strong > 3, manufacturing topic, exposure is advertising < /strong > < /p >.

< p > crazy advertising. This is Bernard Arnott's way to create "star brand", so LV's advertising volume in fashion magazines ranks the top three among all luxury brands.

Arnott once quoted a designer Christian Dior to express his view on fashion conferences: "the value of fashion criticism is not to praise or depreciate, but whether it has appeared on the front page."

Marc Jacobs has the trait that Arnott needs, that is, he can always grasp the focus of discussion and create topics for the brand.

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< p > everyone knows that the designer is the label of the brand, but unlike most other designers who come out after the end of the fashion show, Marc Jacobs personally serves as a model for the hard copy of the graffiti bag advertising, and shares the Lady cover with the underwear in the magazine cover, making a short film on the official website, and he doesn't mind walking a bit earlier.

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< p > Marc Jacobs also makes LV's show design no longer adhere to a long T platform.

In the spring and summer fashion week of 2012, Marc Jacobs moved a huge silver merry go round to the show ground.

The dramatic layout made the LV show and the new season grab the eye. The media did not forget to describe the show's creativity while reporting the fashion.

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< p > strong > 4, more street, younger, better earn < /strong > /p >

< p > all this begins with a graffiti bag.

In 2001, Marc Jacobs co operated with the American Graffiti master Stephen Sprouse, whose handwriting "Louis Vuitton Paris" was printed in handbags.

Before that, luxury and street avant-garde art had nothing to do with it, so graffiti bags had just challenged many people's traditional ideas during the fashion week of Paris, but soon the graffiti bag became one of the top LV handbags.

Since then, Marc Jacobs has collaborated with artists such as Julie Verhoeven, Murakami and Kusama Yayoi in 2002, 2005 and 2012 to launch a series of cross-border design products.

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< p > Marc Jacobs I am a favorite of contemporary art, but the biggest advantage of cross boundary design is that I can make these ancient luxury brands appeal to the younger generation of customers.

These young customers are not interested in resending grandma's handbags, but they may have been brought up in American street culture and rap songs.

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< p > in addition, Murakami Takashi's cherry blossom bag and cherry bag designed for LV are printed on the traditional characters of the cherry blossom and cherry patterns, and have not been restricted to three colors at most in the past LV. The use of dozens of colors in one time makes the whole handbag pform from old age to young and lively.

At the time of launch, the whole fashion industry was shocked by this, but at the same time, it acknowledged that this is the most eye-catching idea.

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< p > the background of cross-border design is related to the adjustment of the business strategy of the luxury group.

Since 1990s, those who are able to patronize luxury stores are no longer the aristocratic celebrities who have their ancestral properties, as well as social celebrities such as movie stars, pop singers and financial practitioners.

LVMH and other large luxury groups began to target the mass market in order to expand their customer base and sell more luxury goods.

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< p > Marc Jacobs has integrated popular culture into luxury design. It has changed the clear distinction between luxury industry and popular culture in the past. The rich commercial returns have led more and more luxury brands to follow the lead of LV. Nowadays, the cross-border design of brands is very common.

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< p > < strong > 5, sell is good design < /strong > < /p >

< p > a designer who can take a firm foothold in today's fashion world is also as important as his design talent.

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From P to 1980s, Arnott made the luxury brand LVMH of Christian Dior, MOET & CHANDON Hennessy, Givenchy and Celine through the intensive and rapid acquisition.

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< p > in order to improve the efficiency and reduce costs of luxury brands, Arnott sought designers to pform the aging brands and put together the production lines of all brands to improve production efficiency and share the same distribution and retail network.

Marc Jacobs and John Galliano are considered the most talented two designers in LVMH, but Marc Jacobs is obviously much better in business performance than the latter.

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< p > John Galliano is good at designing gorgeous and exaggerated a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > clothing < /a >, but he is too persistent in this regard, not taking full account of the actual needs of customers, so that his design is criticized because of its too low wear. During his last two years in office, the sales performance of Dior was not satisfactory.

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< p > Marc Jacobs, from crossover design to show stunt shows that he knows what people like to buy and what they like to pay attention to.

This is not only shown on LV, but also on his personal brand Marc Jacobs.

Because of LVMH's support, the brand has obtained sufficient development funds. In addition to its main brand Marc Jacobs, in 2001, he opened up a cheaper Marc card Marc by Jacobs, thus covering a larger customer base from high to low.

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< p > the development of deputy cards is not Marc Jacobs, but it is better in business.

In 2012, the sales revenue of main brand and Deputy brand reached US $1 billion, which has entered the sales scale of first-rate luxury brands.

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"P", if not because of Marc Jacobs, LV may not be the present LV, the fashion industry is not the way it is now - Bernard Arnott's greatest contribution, may be to leave the fashion industry in Europe, by the Marc Jacobs American.

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