The Share Of Textile Exports Has Dropped Rapidly. Fashion Apparel Brands Are Not Up To Standard.

< p > in order to achieve pollutant emission reduction of printing and dyeing wastewater, China began to implement the discharge standard of pollutants for textile dyeing and finishing industry in January 1, 2013 (GB 4287-2012).

The standard has tightened the emission limits of COD and aniline, and set up emission standards for AOX for the first time.

< /p >

Zhejiang Province, which occupies half of China's printing and dyeing industry, has more fully disclosed the data of enterprises violating the new standards. < p >

The relevant data show that the local printing and dyeing enterprises have a large scale violation of the situation, in the first half of 2013, the number of printing and dyeing enterprises exceeded 400, accounting for more than 90% of the total number of enterprises in the province.

< /p >

At the same time, the pollution emission is becoming more and more obscure. The investigation and evidence collection has become a difficult problem. P

"The most difficult problem is the mastery of evidence. Now the emissions of these enterprises are different from the state of a few years ago. More and more enterprises are adopting a more subtle way of discharging. Now do not say that these sewage outlets are becoming more and more extended. Some of them are miles away, some underground pipelines, or pipes on the ground. Some of them are deep into the river and go deep into the bottom of our offshore. It is hard for you to confirm that you are very difficult to pick up this kind of sample."

< /p >

Fang Yingjun, director of the green Jiangnan institution, introduced the survey, saying, "the investigation is very shocking, the emission is very large, and the P outlet is also very spectacular.

When I was standing there, my heart jumped out. I had never seen such a big scene, and there were some hot and pungent flavors. I took some water samples at that time. There was a temperature at that time. I thought it was 40 degrees Celsius and the heat was blowing up.

< /p >

< p > in some other areas, because of the particularity of the industry, even if the a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp" > the textile industry < /a > sewage enters the ordinary municipal sewage treatment system, it is also unable to achieve the qualified discharge.

< /p >

< p > strong > pfer site can not pfer pollution < /strong > /p >

After p a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp" > Nike < /a > closes the only shoe factory in China, Adidas recently closed its only own factory in China. Therefore, insiders believe that China is losing its status as the world's textile factory in 2009.

< /p >

< p > however, the environmental protection organization found that the decline of textile export share was mainly concentrated in < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp" > garment processing < /a >, and in the process of textile raw material processing mainly based on printing and dyeing, China still occupies the most important position in the world.

As China has multiple comparative advantages over other textile processing and exporting countries, China is still expected to be the world's factory for textile processing and production for a long time.

< /p >

< p > "in fact, these create jobs. Finally, the links of clothing and clothing processing are increasingly shifting to those countries in Southeast Asia and even South Asia, such as Bangladesh.

However, the printing and dyeing industry has left a large number of enterprises in China. The industry consumes 85% of water, 80% of energy and 65% of chemical emissions. It can be said that 80% of the emissions of these pollutants are basically derived from such a link, and this link remains in us.

< /p >

< p > from an economic standpoint, China seems to have some gains and losses in the new round of global industrial division. However, from an environmental and social perspective, such a division of labor is worrying.

What China has lost is labor intensive clothing processing. This link can create a large number of jobs, and water consumption, energy consumption is low, and pollution emissions are few. What China gets is capital intensive dyeing and finishing link, which is difficult to bring a large number of jobs, and water consumption, high energy consumption and large amount of pollution emissions.

< /p >

< p > China's printing and dyeing industry is the most concentrated in Shaoxing, Zhejiang. "Dye vat, wine jar, soy sauce" and other three cylinders are becoming the new business cards here. Data show that as the annual output of 10% of the country's textile County, it owns the complete industrial chain of former PTA, chemical fiber raw materials to weaving and dyeing, and clothing home textiles.

Among them, printing and dyeing output accounted for 30% of the country, accounting for nearly 25% of the county's industrial economy, which is a traditional pillar industry.

At present, there is only one sludge disposal unit in the area, with a daily handling capacity of about 1000 tons, but the local sludge output is up to 2500 tons.

< /p >

< p class= "p15" style= "margin-top: 0pt; margin-bottom: 0pt" > span style= "font-family:" Song body ";" font-size: ";" "" "" > "< < >", "song";

< p > < --EndFragment-- > "I think it is still necessary to promote some enterprises to get the improvement of sewage treatment technology through green selection, and I believe that it is not a technical issue or a capital issue, so we need more people to push this matter, so that no longer the situation of sludge besieged in the south of the Yangtze River."

< /p >

< p > < strong > supply chain leveraging < /strong > /p >

< p > when the banner of anti environmental pollution is flying high, how to make the production enterprises take the initiative to reduce pollution and start from the last link of the industrial supply chain, it is probably not bad for the textile industry to carry out the industry.

< /p >

< p > many fashion brands are confronted with environmental pollution. The problem is in the supply chain.

"These brands have large scale procurement behavior in China, and some enterprises on their supply chain have environmental impact, and these brands have a bad impact on the environment in the procurement process. I hope this disclosure will help them."

Ma Jun introduced.

< /p >

< p > according to the introduction, supply chain pollution is not the pollution caused by the final product itself, but the pollution caused by the production and processing of raw materials.

A simple example is that the apple mobile phone itself does not pollute itself, but there is pollution in the manufacture of spare parts.

< /p >

On the environmental protection, some brands are unwilling to face the supply chain problems. On the one hand, enterprises flaunt their own environmental protection efforts, on the one hand, they ignore or even connive suppliers' illegal emissions behavior. P

< /p >

< p > reporters found similar contents of protecting the environment when browsing the official websites of several brands.

Among them, YOUNGOR's website clearly stated that "the concept of cleaner production is increasingly playing an important role in YOUNGOR's cost control work, and it also enables business management to get a completely new understanding of the importance of production and environmental protection."

< /p >

< p > "China's printing and dyeing industry occupies a pivotal position in the global textile industry. A large number of printing and dyeing enterprises exceed the standard violation, while polluting the local environment, it also means that there is a major environmental violation risk in the supply chain of textile brands."

Ma Jun believes that sometimes pollution is not caused by the fashion brand itself, but as an influential brand, it is also a lack of responsibility to allow its suppliers to pollute the environment after undertaking the corporate social responsibility.

< /p >

< p > in fact, supply chain pollution in China has not been given due attention. Many enterprises' views basically stay on. "I do not pollute myself, and I can not do anything about suppliers' problems. I have done enough for myself."

< /p >

< p > facing the query and criticism of environmental protection organizations, people in the textile industry have voices saying that the industry is going back to the black pot to pay for others' mistakes.

"What pollution can you say about our garment factory?" an insider in Ningbo, Zhejiang complained about the new financial reporter on the phone.

"The problem of printing and dyeing factories is their own, and it is not caused by us. The boards cannot be hit on us."

< /p >

< p > choose the fast moving consumer goods industry, and tap the qualified sewage discharge through supply chain pressure. This is precisely the "unjust" attitude towards enterprises. The supply chain is mainly concerned with the fast moving consumer goods industry. The industry is closely related to consumers, hoping to promote the solution of enterprise problems through the pressure of consumers.

The simple logic is that consumers impose environmental pressure on brands, and brands push the pressure on processing plants and raw materials suppliers to achieve a reduction in environmental pollution.

< /p >

< p > "no matter how many things we expose, we do not want to beat the enterprise and let it go bankrupt. Instead, it is the big brands in fast moving consumer goods that are being investigated and supervised. They are capable of doing better.

But there is a real flaw in its corporate social responsibility. We want it to be better. "

Ma Jun said he hoped that Polo, UNIQLO, YOUNGOR and other clothing brands should face up to the serious water pollution problems caused by supply chain.

< /p >

It is an important purpose of environmental protection organizations to force manufacturers to really attach importance to environmental problems by using P power.

The new financial reporter learned that after announces the green choice Textile Research Report, the effect has already appeared.

"The companies and brands that had never responded to our research before contacted us immediately after the report was released, expressing their willingness to communicate."

< /p >