The Fashion Industry Is A Fan Of "Advanced Customization Is Not Dead".

< p > people think that as "a href=" http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_s.asp "advanced custom dress" < /a > is "sunset industry", every time it will be sung off once, "the senior custom is dead". In view of the fact that editors have been talking about it for years, I have written many manuscripts, such as "high customization goes down the altar", "advanced customization is not dead, exquisite elegance is dead" and so on. In the "a href=" http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_s.asp "2014 spring summer" Paris advanced custom fashion week < /a > the end of all the show, I am ready to say something auspicious: "advanced custom never dies." Because my favorite designer, the current a Dior designer, Raf Simons, gave a new look at this year's new look at advanced customization: it is a collection of superb skills, which is only the wearer's solution, "not enough for the outsiders." < /p >
< p > < strong > reason 1: fashion is a martial arts. How can we lose the leader? < /strong > /p >
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< p > as the "fashion world's leader of the martial arts", the advanced custom industry has the "martial arts secret book" of the fashion: the museum's manual workshop, the outstanding skill that nobody can do is a fashion learning. < /p >
What is "P" > strong > "advanced customization"? < /strong > < /p >
< p > this French is called the "Haute Couture" fashion series. It doesn't mean that the XX house tailor will sew a dress for you by your body, then buy you a sky high price, even if it's finished. It's not Louis Vuitton. This "international big name" has changed your clothes according to your personal size. < /p >
< p > "advanced customization" requires "organization certification", just like when Mafia needs to complete a series of "organizational rules", resolutely abide by "organizational discipline" and "organizational observation". The brand that can be "a href=" http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_s.asp "advanced customization < /a > must meet the following regulations: < /p >
< p > A. has a studio in Paris, and can participate in the women's Wear Exhibition held by the advanced uniform Association every January and July; < /p >
< p > B. shows at least 50 garments every time; < /p >
< p > C. employs more than 3 full-time models throughout the year; < /p >
< p > D. the number of styles is very small and most of them are finished by hand; < /p >
< p > E. shall be strictly approved by the French Ministry of industry, < /p >
< p > 2014 during the spring and summer advanced customization week, there were 21 members of the "organization", 15 French brands and 6 other countries' brands, and 10 "inviting brands". This season, Chinese designer Yin Yiqing was among them, and female designer Marc, who made fashion for Mrs. a > Peng Liyuan < /a >, also made "advanced custom inviting brand" and "useless". < /p >
< p > it can be seen that "advanced customization" is a "minority" game, and it is destined that only "Wulin master" can participate. < /p >
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What is "P style=" text-align: center "strong"? What is the "martial arts master" in the fashion world? < /strong > /p >
< p > they make "expensive" clothes and make something called luxury. Luxury is not only because it is expensive, but also because it has the ultimate fabric and superb technology. These top skills are the masterpieces that can only be completed by 30 days' manual time. It is "the skill that no one can" and is the secret of the museum's manual workshop pressing the bottom of the box. < /p >
< p > > the "martial arts leader of the fashion world" has the "martial arts secret book" of fashion: Dior has Vermont embroidery workshop; Chanel has Massaro shoe workshop, A.Michel hat square, Lesage embroidery workshop, Lemarie feather square, Goossen gold and silver square, Guillet decorative flower workshop, Desrues button workshop, embroidery embroidery workshop, gloves gloves, pleating square, embroidery workshop. These workshops retain hundreds of years of valuable craft databases, and no one can match them. < /p >
< p > the inheritance of these "secrets" has become the genetic code of the brand from generation to generation. 2014 during the spring and summer advanced fashion week, Dior invited more than 80 fashion students from all over the world to come to Paris to visit the fourth quarter senior custom series made by Raf Simons for the brand. It fully demonstrates the long history of Dior brand. The chief executive of Sidney Toledano said that the purpose of the action was to share and convey the idea of advanced custom clothes, so that more young designers could join the ranks. < /p >
< p > < strong > reason two: get through the two pulse of the governor: Modernity and wearability < /strong > < /p >
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< p > these fashions were born in complex handicraft, but they are, after all, clothes, clothes that allow the wearer to move freely in the twenty-first Century society. < /p >
< p > Yves Saint Laurent announced its withdrawal at the beginning of 2002. It issued a Manifesto: "high fashion is dead! The old solemn, luxurious, luxurious is replaced by the absurdity and grotesque." in fact, the new generation will always be regarded as "grotesque" by the older generation. When the miniskirt is born, the old generation thinks that the slut will wear it; when the jazz is born, the older generation thinks that playing jazz is blunting; when Yves Saint Laurent designed trousers for women, the older generation felt that the women in trousers were not serious. {page_break} < /p >
< p > nowadays, < a > Yves Saint Laurent < /a > obviously belongs to the "old generation", belonging to the age of death with advanced customization. The "luxurious grand" custom is a "antique" of the last century. This kind of "antique" is designed to turn women into a display, wear complex clothes, act inconveniently, and remain there quietly in the eyes of others. < /p >
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< p > in the 2014 spring and summer Paris advanced custom fashion week, Christian Dior and Chanel led the high-end custom brand, giving the way to save "advanced customization": "young" and "real wear". Time and gorgeous handwork is like the "two governor's pulse" of advanced customization. If we do not really understand how they exist in modern society, "advanced customization" will die. < /p >
< p > comfortable clothes are the needs of modern women. Although advanced customization was born of sophisticated handicrafts, they were, after all, clothes, clothes that allowed the wearer to move freely in the twenty-first Century society. They should be light, comfortable and should be able to exercise. Those tedious crafts and sophisticated tailoring are meant to make the wearer more comfortable. < /p >
< p > perhaps in the eyes of "guardians of the old age": the Christian Dior 2014 spring and summer advanced custom-made gowns are too simple to match the momentum of "red carpet"; Chanel actually wears sports shoes and kneecaps for the gowns, which is a disaster. They just misunderstood the essence of fashion in the future world. Girls wearing Dior don't need to be proven. Women wearing Chanel have her attitude towards life. < /p >
< p > I particularly agree with MS. Hong Huang: "the luxury of luxury is a respect for human wisdom, whether it is design or handwork, it is an expression of recognition for hands and minds." < /p >
< p > in the new era, it is not for the sake of "showing off" that people buy advanced tailor-made, but they are "Empathy" for this fashion. This is not only a hot consumption of brains, but also a taste and time. They can afford to work hours, and try to get dressed. (Dior, a high-level customization, from the selection of money, volume, white cloth to the final production, the total need for the buyer to go to Paris for the 5 time). < /p >
< p > > a > Christian Dior < /a > Design Director Raf Simons described in this season the woman who bought the senior custom of Dior: "she is not only wearing fashion, but also a kind of strength and attitude. Any outsiders' opinions and evaluations are not related to her. She is wearing herself. Dior has conveyed this message since Raf Simons took office. Exquisite workmanship is not to produce luxuriant and complicated ceremonial dress, not to produce "dead things" like stage props, but to make clothes that are more comfortable and more comfortable to express the wearer's attitude. Therefore, the handwork is traditional, the advanced customization is modern, it uses the traditional exquisite sewing to come out the newest fashion idea. < /p >
< p > < strong > reason three: replace one with "new blood", dying on the old brand and dying back to life < /strong > < /p >
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< p > every advanced customization is an art laboratory. Everything that happens on this T stage decides what you will wear in the future. It becomes a popular fashion indication. < /p >
In May 1968, when p quit Balenciaga, he told Time magazine: "the life of supporting customization is over. Real customization is too luxurious for this era to survive." < /p >
Less than half a century, most of the people in the world wear fashionable H&M, Zara and other fashionable fashions to pursue the trend happily. The advanced customization is still alive, and fashion week is still held in the two quarter of the year. P < /p >
In the first 10 years of P, twenty-first Century, Yves Saint Laurent, Emanuel Ungaro, Versace, Christian Lacroix all quit the stage of advanced customization, and even 2013 Givenchy also said goodbye to the advanced customization week. But in the second 10 years, we ushered in the return of Versace, Givenchy, and return. The designers of new thinking revived these old brands, while the modern thinking, such as "the", "the", "the" and so on, are joining. Advanced customization for fresh blood! < /p >
< p > just like this season, Chanel has returned to the stage of advanced customization in 1930s, and it has been 60 years since its last show. Schiaparelli was once famous for her avant-garde avant-garde shoes. She wore high heeled shoes on her head as a hat. She played in 1930s. Lady Gaga those fancy clothes, counting up a lot, are picking up her teeth. She has been ahead of the society for more than half a century. She deconstructed and challenged the stereotypes. She told people that fashion is not just a dress, it can also be a work of art. < /p >
< p > today, how can T Marco Zanini restore Schiaparelli? This is twenty-first Century, and people who wear advanced custom do not need to attract attention like Lady Gaga. They need Schiaparelli's "elite sense of humor" and wear well. Marco Zanini designs a two-faced suit, one side of the body, one of which is complex and colorful, just like the two forms of modern people's daily wear and evening dress. He designs a trouser suit for the bride, so that the wearer can stand in the wedding dress model. He also uses flat bottomed sports slippers and long dresses to illustrate the truth of comfort and magnificently. < /p >
< p > and the designer who took over Schiaparelli's Vionnet is Vionnet Hussein. The designer once brought all kinds of groundbreaking fashions for twenty-first Century: a dress with a longer dress for one second, a luminous garment, a clothes to get rid of the gravity and floating clothes, and clothes that can be folded into tables. He thought seriously about fashion in the future world like scientists, rather than designing clothes for sensationalism. < /p >
< p > old rebirth is not a duplication of the past, but to let the designer's fresh blood transform the old brand to adapt to the new era and to lead the new trend. {page_break} < /p >
< p > not every a > dress > /a, which is used for hundreds of hours of work, is called Haute Couture. Not every designer who has the right moment can enter the Paris fashion week. Every advanced customization is an art laboratory, and designers can freely display their imagination. They use creativity to influence the direction of future fashion. Everything that happens on this T platform determines your future dress and becomes a popular fashion indication. < /p >
< p > < strong > reason four: provide daily wear for "inheritors" < /strong > /p >
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< p > "old money" (< a > Old Money < /a >) is not the growth point of advanced customization, "successors" is the future customer base. Designing fashion for them is the future of advanced customization. < /p >
< p > who is buying "advanced customization"? Before the abolition of the palace system, the customers of advanced customization were mainly members of the royal family. Since then, celebrities and celebrities have been joined. Before 1914, 50% tourists came from France. After World War I, most of them came from North America and South America. After 1970s, the main customers came from the Middle East, South America and the Far East. However, this list of customers has been declining. In 1945, there were 1100 advanced custom boutiques and 20 thousand customers around the world. By twenty-first Century, this number had dropped to 20 advanced Custom Stores and 2000 customers. < /p >
Less than P, however, the "upstart" seems to be expanding this figure: emerging customers from Arabia countries, Asia, Eastern Europe and the United States are expanding this team. Some of the most successful commercially successful high-end custom brands, such as St phane Rolland, have already targeted their investments in Asia and the Middle East. The new rich obviously love the word "customization", which gives people a natural sense of superiority. < /p >
Sidney Toledano, chief executive officer of P Christian Dior, said that the 2014 spring and summer advanced customization week was popular. It was not affected by the economic situation. "Everyone is very interested in advanced customization. This year, there are many thirty or forty year old customers, most of whom come from the entertainment industry or high-tech industry in the US and Asia, and they pursue the most high-end design." < /p >
< p > these thirty or forty year old customers are the 1% people depicted in the Korean drama < < a href= > http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_s.asp > > the successors < /a >, the so called "two generation". The "successors" realize the importance of "wear". It is not that there have been various definitions of upper class society in the bestseller's Guide style, which is a very important part: "a little bit of polyester fabric in a Oxford shirt" can make people find "middle class lineage". Advanced customization is clearly a tool to prove the origin of blood. It is not to wear a dress on red carpet to tell everyone their own wealth, but to have a unique dressing experience in everyday life. This low-key is like Peng Liyuan's wearing a coat made by Mrs. mark. Only the wearer can feel the quality and comfort of the clothes. < /p >