Existing Problems And Countermeasures Of Wuhan Garment Industry

　 Wuhan City clothing The existing problems and development countermeasures.

The writer is a research group of the CPC Wuhan Municipal Committee and municipal government. 。

Since the reform and opening up, especially after Xiaoping's South inspection speech in 1992, the clothing industry in Wuhan has developed rapidly. It has developed from the general industry to become an advantageous industry in the national economy of the city. According to the preliminary statistics of relevant departments in Wuhan, as of the end of 1998, the clothing enterprises in the city were 1716 households, with an annual output value of about 6000000000 yuan, and the number of employees has reached about 150 thousand. There are 5 enterprises close to and over 100 million yuan (excluding military enterprises). A group of clothing brands represented by glaciers, Taihe, Jinsong, Jin Shi, and Qi Qi have initially formed, and the concept of Han style clothing which has certain influence in the national garment industry has played a positive role in expanding the influence of Wuhan. Although the garment industry of Wuhan has begun to take shape, it has formed a good foundation for its development. However, compared with the advanced areas in the country, the garment industry in our city still has a big gap in terms of scale, strength and popularity. It is understood that the annual output value of four brands of Zhejiang, Ningbo, YOUNGOR, Shan Shan, and children's clothing last year reached 6 billion yuan, which is the same as the overall scale of the clothing industry in our city. In 1998, no one of Wuhan's clothing enterprises had a list of sales revenue and profits tax. Ningbo Shanshan suits produced nearly 1 million 800 thousand packages last year, while the total production of Western-style clothes produced by two enterprises in Jinsong and Jin is only 140 thousand packages.

Last year, the output was 2 million units, while the two brand down clothing of our glacier and Antarctic peak was only 1 million 200 thousand Suites last year. The Shanghai three gun group, which produced knitted garments, earned 670 million yuan last year and profits and taxes 92 million yuan, while the Aidi group, which also knitted garments, sold only 160 million yuan last year, and profits and taxes were 10 million yuan. A comprehensive analysis of the main factors that affect the development of garment industry in our city is as follows:

(1) the overall quality of enterprises is not high. First, the level of enterprise management is low.

Most of the Han style clothing business operators grew up in the market by individual owners engaged in garment trade in Hanzheng Street and Yangzi street in 80s. Most of them manage their enterprises by experience, and quite a few of them are still family workshops. Family management is appropriate in the initial accumulation stage of enterprises, but with the further development of market economy and the fiercer competition, it restricts the further development and scale development of clothing enterprises to a certain extent. Two is the weak ability of enterprise innovation. It is shown that the ability of fashion design with originality and distinctive style is generally insufficient, and lacks a specialized training and professional knowledge. Designer Ranks. Most enterprises do not have real fashion designers, some are just plate makers. The style of clothing follows Guangdong, Shanghai and other places, and a few of the backbone enterprises with design capability. Plagiarism and imitation become popular, resulting in product convergence and low grade, which has affected the overall image and level of Wuhan clothing. Three, the mechanism transformation of state-owned garment enterprises is not in place, and the development is not fast enough.

Some state-owned garment enterprises have certain production capacity and better technical and equipment conditions, but the internal mechanism of enterprises, especially the mechanism of distribution, employment, marketing and product development, can not meet the needs of the market, which has affected the expansion of the scale of production, some of which are limited to maintaining simple reproduction, and some are even in serious distress. Four, most of the private clothing enterprises are backward in technology and equipment. There are many common equipment, less specialized equipment, and some key equipment that can improve the quality of products, such as embroidery machine, edge trimming machine, computer cutting equipment, CAD computer design system and so on, are widely used in garment enterprises, which restricts the grade and level of product quality.

　 (two) the industrial structure is irrational. First, the industry structure is unsatisfactory.

From the perspective of product quality, it is basically a low-level public costume, with similar products, lack of personality, low competitiveness, high grade and high-grade clothes. From men's and women's clothing, men's wear is relatively slow. From the age of the clothing objects, the young and middle-aged clothes are the main ones, and the development of the elderly and children's clothing is not enough. From the inside to outside look, the outfit is the main and the development of the interior is not enough. Two, the development of supporting industries is lagging behind. Wuhan garment enterprises invested about 2000000000 yuan in annual purchase of accessories, almost one hundred percent of their fabrics purchased from abroad, or rely on imports, and accessories, accessories and ornaments also basically depend on the outside world. At present, Wuhan's textile industry mainly produces two yarn and two cloth, with less fabric production. According to statistics, the proportion of Wuhan accessories purchased by Han clothing enterprises has decreased from 30.8% in 1981 to 2.5%, and it is still declining. This situation is not only easy to be controlled by others, but also increases the cost of products. Three, the market is not extroverted. Most garment enterprises lack marketing planning departments, narrow sales channels, basically rely on local commercial retail, expand their capabilities to the outside of the province, and have a single sales promotion means, mainly by means of price adjustment. At present, only a few garment enterprises such as Taihe, glacier, elegant and red people have sales outlets in some large cities in the country. The ability to develop international market is weaker. It is understood that the current self owned import and export rights of clothing enterprises only glaciers, Antarctica peak, Taihe and other 8 enterprises. Last year, the city's clothing exports amounted to 267 million US dollars (accounting for 24.7% of the total export volume of the city's total 1 billion 82 million dollars), of which the proportion of Han made clothing exports accounted for only about 45%.

(three) the lack of service system is insufficient for planning guidance.

　　 Wuhan In the past two years, the garment industry in the city has been oversupplied with the same clothes, and the enterprises have been bargaining with each other for the market. There is a lack of coordination mechanism between the two sides. From the front and the surface, consumers are benefited, but in the long run, they will damage the interests of both sides and seriously weaken the development potential of the garment industry. Two, the intermediary service organization is not perfect. Providing intermediary services such as information, consultation and communication for garment enterprises is weak, and the functions are not enough. The industry information channels are not smooth, enterprises are in the same position, low-level duplicated construction is serious, the training and introduction of clothing professionals are in a state of blind competition, and lack of group guidance; the cultural atmosphere of clothing is not strong enough, and propaganda is not enough. The three is financing lag. There is a lack of funds for development, a single financing channel, and a lack of liquidity. Some state-owned enterprises are heavily burdened with low credibility, capital exhausted and difficult development.

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　 What measures should we take to promote the development of Wuhan's clothing industry?

(1) clarify the target position, and truly cultivate the garment industry into the dominant industry of the city's economy.

The clothing industry is a dynamic industry with huge market space. Statistics show that the per capita clothing consumption in Wuhan has increased from 9.8 yuan per capita in 1981 to 631.19 yuan in 1997, an increase of 9.8 times. With the development of economy and the improvement of people's living standard, the proportion of clothing consumption will also increase. Clothing changing from warm to healthy, functional, fashionable and personalized will promote the level of the garment industry, and the prospect of the garment industry is limitless. As the only megacities in the central region of China, Wuhan has strong industrial and technological strength, obvious regional advantages and market advantages, and has four distinct climatic characteristics. It has good conditions for the development of the garment industry. After decades of development, especially since 90s, the clothing industry in our city already has a considerable foundation. Judging from the orientation of urban function and the adjustment of industrial structure, the clothing industry has no pollution and absorbs strong employability. It is an urban industry suitable for urban development. It has great significance for shaping the city image and optimizing the urban environment. Therefore, it is not only necessary but also feasible to further speed up the development of garment industry in Wuhan and make it truly become a dominant industry in the economy of the city. The 95 plan of Wuhan city has proposed that the garment industry be built into a dominant industry with a large scale and characteristics. The status and role of the garment industry in Wuhan's economic development have been clearly defined, and the development goal has been established.

We believe that as long as we fully tap the potential, consolidate the advantages and find the right way of development, our garment industry can achieve a new leap forward on the existing basis, making it a truly advantageous industry. We should position in accordance with this goal and build a new pattern of the great development of Wuhan's garment industry. The specific objectives are: (1) scale: strive to achieve sales of more than 10 billion yuan in 2002; (2) enterprises: cultivate large enterprise groups with 5 annual sales of over 500 million yuan; (3) brand: possess 23 well-known brands nationwide; (4) market: build a market for clothing, accessories and accessories in central and even the whole country.

(two) to carry out structural adjustment, and to accelerate the development of the garment industry in terms of scale, upper class and upper level, we must take structural adjustment as the main line, change the mode of growth, and improve the overall level of the industry as soon as possible.

The main measures are: 1. asset aggregation. Large garment enterprises and enterprise groups are the giants representing the image of the industry and supporting the development of the industry. A large number of large and powerful large enterprises and groups should be cultivated through asset flow and reorganization. On the one hand, it is necessary to support the merger and acquisition of small and medium-sized enterprises, such as glaciers, Taihe and other large enterprises with a certain scale of strength, and set up a group of wholly owned, holding and shareholding companies to form a different level of enterprise structure with division of labor and cooperation. On the other hand, we must encourage small and medium-sized enterprises to join together and take the road of fusion development to achieve large-scale and intensive operation. Ningbo, Huangshi and other places have many successful experiences in cultivating large garment enterprises, which is worthy of our reference. 2. brand extension. Brand is a kind of commercial reputation as well as an intangible asset. Making full use of the brand advantage of famous brand clothing and expanding the expansion of the brand with the expansion of the brand is an important way for the garment industry to expand its scale and upgrade its level. It is necessary to guide and support the well-known brand product manufacturers to take brand as a link and carry out the brand management of licensed production and commission processing, so as to bring the famous brand effect into full play. 3., industry development. In order to consolidate the advantages of women's clothing and guide the development of women's clothing to small batch, multi variety and individuation, we should expand our efforts towards other types of clothing, such as casual wear, sportswear, children's wear and special clothes. Through efforts, we have formed a series of women's garments represented by Taihe and AQI. The series of men's suits, represented by Jin Shi and Jinsong, are represented by the glacier and Antarctic peaks. It is necessary to guide the development of knitting, bleaching and dyeing, printing, computer embroidery, zipper buttons, trademarks, etc.

(three) enhance the ability of innovation and improve the comprehensive quality of garment enterprises. At present, the apparel industry has entered a critical period of great adjustment and restructuring. The key to apparel enterprises to gain a firm foothold in the market and grow stronger is to continuously enhance their technological and managerial innovation capabilities and comprehensively improve their quality.

We should take clothing design as the leader, improve the level of clothing production technology, and change the situation of imitation and lack of characteristics of products. To introduce and digest the latest fashion styles both at home and abroad, we should train our own design masters. It is suggested that the municipal government regularly organize a national or international costume design competition with Wuhan characteristics as an opportunity to promote the improvement of the clothing design level in our city, expand the influence of Han costume, and cultivate the cultural atmosphere of clothing. We should make full use of the latest technology and design research results, popularize the computer CAD design system, fully implement the ISO9000 standard, and vigorously transform the existing technology and equipment. We should take the establishment of a modern enterprise system as the direction, improve the management level of enterprises, change the rigid mechanism of state-owned enterprises and the pure family management of private enterprises. There is not a large number of state-owned enterprises in our garment industry. To survive and develop in fierce competition with other enterprises, we must deepen internal reform, transform operating mechanism, and boldly explore trial share holding system, management and technology stock.

And other measures conducive to mobilizing the enthusiasm of all parties. Private enterprises should break through the pattern of single ownership and boldly absorb state capital, social capital and overseas capital. It is necessary to promote the separation of ownership from management rights, and to make the personnel running enterprises with stronger professional knowledge and comprehensive management ability more scientific and standardized in terms of enterprise system, organization form and management mode.

(four) optimize the external environment to provide a guarantee policy environment for the healthy development of the garment industry.

The development of garment industry is inseparable from policy support, and the policy should be focused. In order to make a thorough investigation of garment enterprises, we should classify the Han style clothing enterprises according to the strength, brand, mechanism, development potential and quality of the leaders of the enterprises, and draw up the key support objects. In view of the financial difficulties commonly faced by garment enterprises, relevant departments should study measures to support strong clothing enterprises to be bundled or listed for backdoor listing, and to set up a cooperative development fund of clothing industry based on enterprise investment, so as to solve the problem of financing guarantee for garment enterprises. Market environment. We should strengthen the management and enforcement supervision of the clothing industry, crack down on fake and shoddy products, stop vicious acts of killing prices, and maintain the normal order of the clothing market. The establishment of a new industrial and commercial cooperative relationship, from businesses directly to clothing manufacturers order, the implementation of commercial distribution system, sharing market risks. China's accession to the WTO will soon bring new opportunities to the development of the garment industry. We should give special support to enterprises to enter the international market. Enterprises with transnational capabilities should be given their own export rights. Enterprises with immature conditions should actively promote their cooperation with foreign trade enterprises, and foreign trade enterprises should also focus on the export of clothing products. We should vigorously energetically revitalize the national garment trade center of Wuhan, and plan the construction of Huazhong garment accessories market.

Talent environment. Talent development is fundamental to the development of garment industry. We should find talents, introduce talents and train talents in many forms, levels and channels. The garment designers and craftsmen are included in the professional title evaluation system, and the qualification is recognized. The training of garment operators, designers and workers should be carried out at different levels. We should adopt the way of linking schools with enterprises, and support the close cooperation between clothing enterprises and universities such as Wu textile and Academy of fine arts, so as to train professionals. The relevant departments can organize the gathering of garment professionals to recruit talents in urgent need for enterprises. Social environment. Wuhan Han style clothing trade association is an industry self-discipline organization of garment enterprises in our city. It has played a very good role in communication between government and enterprises, strengthening cooperation among enterprises, and developing Han style clothing market. In the past two years, the chamber of Commerce has existed in name only for various reasons. It is suggested that we should improve institutions and adjust personnel as soon as possible, focusing on solving the common difficulties in the development of garment enterprises, exchanging information on the industry, carrying out external cooperation, organizing personnel training and designing competitions, developing markets and creating a good competitive environment and other related issues, playing a good intermediary role, contributing to the high-speed, healthy and orderly development of Han style clothing. The government should strengthen the guidance for the development of garment industry and the work of the chamber of Commerce, and set up a coordinative steering group for clothing development in Wuhan, which is responsible for studying and formulating the development planning and supporting policies of the garment industry, and coordinating and solving major global problems so as to form control. market The resultant force of orderly competition.