Every Oriental Woman Must Have A Cheongsam.

The movie "Mei Lanfang" is on the air, and Mei Lanfang's lover, Meng Xiaodong, has several elegant elegant cheongsam, which is very gentle and elegant, fresh patterns and soft lines.

In the winter of Wuhan, a cheongsam show was also staged in the northwestern lake, the governor of the two lakes and the golden dress club, which inspired women's yearning for classical beauty.

"Every woman should have at least one cheongsam". This is not a luxury for a woman whose body is not perfect.

In the past and present life, in 1930s, the so-called "cheongsam" was called the Qipao, the robe of the banners, which originated from the robes worn by the eight banners of Manchu nationality.

The clouds wanted to dress, and the two women of the Manchu and Han Dynasties in Qing Dynasty imitated each other's clothing with passion, so that the Manchu Han style of dress was mingled with each other. This is the prelude of the cheongsam's popularity throughout the country.

The complexity of decoration is a prominent feature of previous cheongsam.

Modern cheongsam was born in the early twentieth Century.

It was the age of Western learning.

Overseas students who have seen the new world in foreign countries bring back western style dress (dress and cap), but also give China an alternative view of clothing.

Tagore, the great poet of 1924, visited China. He saw Lin Whei-yin, a lovely and talented woman wearing the cheongsam of the Republic of China.

At that time, the top skirts of jackets were covered with jackets, jackets and vests, and the clothes were round, wide and thin.

The cheongsam reflects the characteristics of Beijing school culture.

The 30s is the flourishing period of cheongsam.

The cheongsam known as Chinese dress is known in the world as the cheongsam in 30s.

The cheongsam was born in Shanghai, where clothing and lifestyle are deeply influenced by the West. Clothing columns, calendar and fashion beauty paintings undoubtedly promote the emergence and popularity of fashion.

Influenced by western humanism, people began to emphasize their physique, and they became more westernized in their ways and structures.

Its most important "improvement" is to adopt the design concept of chest and waist in western style clothes, which breaks the pattern of cheongsam without any province.

The slightly wider chest and tighter waist design highlight the woman's breast and waist, and the curve has a clear view.

The cheongsam also appeared for the first time with shoulder joints and sleeves.

Since ancient times, Chinese women have been advocating shoulder cuts. But in order to support cheongsam, the fashionable women at this time shoulder shoulders to heighten the contour and height of shoulders, which is called "beauty shoulder".

The appearance of this "improved cheongsam" has truly established the structure of modern cheongsam, and has completed the shape of mature, gorgeous and perfect sexy.

After liberation, it has gone through a quiet period. Since the 80s of last century, cheongsam has appeared on the international stage frequently, stunning the world and becoming the appellation of Chinese clothing.

The process of making a cheongsam chef is similar to that of making other clothes. First of all, the guests should choose the cloth and style.

But customize a cheongsam to at least a dozen sizes.

The production process is mainly divided into three parts: cutting, drawing and embroidery.

The simple cheongsam actually has many complicated crafts. There are only more than 10 kinds of collar. There are hundreds of special techniques, such as needles and embroidery, but many of them are on the verge of being lost.

For example, the mosaic process has a set of special skills, including two inlays, two rolls and so on, including the buttons on the collar of the cheongsam, hundreds of hundreds and hundreds of ways.

The apprenticeship who used to study Qipao was almost 6 years from sewing, sewing to volume and proofing.

Now the cheongsam is mainly made of traditional manual and semi mechanical technology.

Semi mechanical refers to the main body of Qipao need to be made by motor.

Buttons and embroidery belong to traditional handwork.

There is also a computer embroidered machine, but machine embroidery is easy to appear cheongsam is not flat.

The way of hand painting will be light and natural.

Hand painting is often used on summer fabrics.

The use of the edge and the inlaid tendons is much more important, mainly for ornament. Most of the traditional cheongsam is colorful, and the edges and bands are pressed to make the colors more harmonious and better reflect the details of the cheongsam.

In the process of wrapping and inserting tendons, keep the hands moist.

Modern improved cheongsam pays more attention to fashion. As long as the flavor and type of cheongsam are good, the technological requirements are not high, and the cheongsam of a traditional classic style can be more complicated if it is more complex. A pure handmade Qipao has to go for ten days and a half.

The designer of the cheongsam Jin Buyao is the designer of the bangs and the artistic director.

City Commune: the style of cheongsam is basically fixed. Success depends largely on fabric.

Then what is the fabric on?

Liu bangs: now the cheongsam is much used for traditional fabrics such as forging, silk, brocade, nylon and silk, nylon and so on.

All cotton flax is very popular now, especially printed or hand painted.

The city Commune: is there strict "three circles" requirement for making cheongsam?

Is the chest more plump and better?

Liu bangs: Qipao has certain requirements for stature.

Ideally, the chest circumference is 88, the waist circumference is 60, the hip circumference is the most perfect proportion, the height is 1 meters 60 to 1 meters 68.

The general requirements are: shoulders should be slipped, waist should be thin, chest should be full of fullness, buttocks should have a certain high warp, so that the Oriental women can be more graceful.

Oriental women are dignified, quiet and beautiful, unlike western women's gorgeous and wild.

City Commune: how can we tailor women for their imperfect bodies?

Liu: for short and thin women, there will be some bedding, such as the shape of underwear.

This kind of cheongsam has a very high demand for the shape of the plate. It will be corrected by the special plate making method according to the parameters of the gold ratio of the people, so as to achieve the garment effect.

Fat people have a rough neck, such as Hongkong artistes fat, she often wears Qipao, she is suitable for ladder collar, such a collar is tied to her neck, and it will reduce the coarse feeling visually.

If a woman has no waist, she needs to have a pfer on the plate, such as the chest collection, the waist collection and the distortion on the seam so as to achieve a view shift so that the cheongsam looks like a curve.

City Commune: so how much money can build a good cheongsam?

Liu: actually cheongsam is not expensive.

Apart from the high price of some high-grade cloth or hand-made embroidered cheongsam, the price of general cheongsam and ordinary clothes is almost the same.

Cheongsam tens of yuan to several hundred yuan.

Cheongsam is usually between 500 and 800 yuan.

A little more high-end, between 1800 and 2500 yuan.

City Commune: what new ideas will you learn from improving cheongsam?

Liu Hai: it will blend into the fashion design concepts in Japan, South Korea and Europe and the United States, such as changing to ultra short, sleeves, and changing them into sling.

City Commune: is it like a cheongsam instead of a sling?

Liu Liu: the basic form of this cheongsam can still be preserved. For example, the tailoring is still waist and chest, and it will still be very close.

With the most Chinese fabrics, silk and brocade, the most Chinese dress, Qipao, worn by the Chinese women in the bun and tall, the unique oriental charm is the real Chinese flavor.

The cheongsam is beautiful and beautiful. It responds to you in every detail and looks at your body and your heart.

Some people say that every woman has a qipao complex.

And an exclusive cheongsam is a very unique way of life. Any time, any place, as long as the mood is suitable, always wear the temperament that belongs to you.

Yang Jing: editor in charge