Why Does APEC Head Wear Fabric Use Song Jin?

Standing collar, pair of cardigan, shoulder sleeve, jacquard pattern

, decorated with seawater, river cliff, Zhang Satin...

At the APEC dinner in November 10th, the leaders and spouses made a family portrait in the "new suit" of the Song Dynasty brocade with Chinese characteristics.

The appearance of Chinese element song brocade makes the world look at it.

The song brocade originated in the Song Dynasty and originated in Suzhou, China, also known as "Suzhou song brocade".

Suzhou song brocade and Nanjing brocade, Sichuan Shu Brocade and Zhuang Zhuang of Guangxi Zhuang nationality are known as the four famous brocade in China.

Why does the APEC conference match Suzhou song brocade this year?

11 morning, as the leader.

Wu Jianhua, director of Dingsheng silk, a provider of Wujiang, Suzhou, opened the story of song brocade "new suit" to Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology.

According to Wu Jianhua, the requirement of APEC Conference for clothing is to choose traditional Chinese elements. The advantage of song brocade is "matte light characteristics, gorgeous colors, exquisite patterns, and Chinese are not dazzling, expensive and not obvious, and low key and restrained."

The first feeling of Chu Yan, the chief designer of the new suit, is that "Song Jin is very consistent with the low-key, restrained and extravagant temperament."

This year, the APEC leaders' fashion design scheme was launched in late December 2013. 71 enterprises, 259 designers and 18 universities received the invitation letter from the organizer.

Between February 2014 and September, 35 samples of 455 designs were selected for further design.

Wu Jianhua told reporters that the whole set of garments has been designed for more than a year from design, sample preparation to production, and the final identification of the fabric was in September 2014.

"After fierce competition, Dingsheng silk stands out from more than 500 competitors and is responsible for providing core fabrics."

Wu Jianhua disclosed that the APEC meeting was in late autumn in Beijing, and the weather was relatively cold. Considering that the fabric of the song brocade itself was rather light, the material was adjusted during the production, and the weft was changed from pure silk to wool, which was relatively warm.

In the history of China, song brocade has the reputation of "splendid crown".

The history of song brocade can be traced back to the Sui and Tang Dynasties. It gradually developed on the basis of brocade in the Sui and Tang Dynasties.

In order to meet the court costumes and calligraphy and painting, Song Gaozong vigorously promoted song brocade and established a song brocade weaving department in Suzhou.

After the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Song Jin was known as "archaize Song Jin" or "Song Shijin", collectively referred to as "Song Jin".

Suzhou has always been the land of splendid beauty and the land of silk.

The origin of song brocade in Suzhou can be traced back to the spring and Autumn period.

Through the development of various times, brocade skills have been comprehensively improved in the Northern Song Dynasty.

In the Southern Song Dynasty, Suzhou established a courtyard and a famous Suzhou weaving house. Its palace weaving and folk silk weaving were flourishing.

Suzhou song brocade, in addition to the clothes used for gowns and clothing, is also widely used for the installation of scroll painting techniques. There are more than 40 kinds of varieties.

In particular, the application of mounting calligraphy and painting has preserved these beautiful brocade with calligraphy and painting treasures.

In Ming and Qing Dynasties, the use range of song brocade was enlarged, especially during the period of Kangxi and Qian Long.

The the Imperial Palace museum's collection of "the world of bliss" is the heavy brocade produced by Qian Long during the period of Suzhou, which is a rare treasure.

The brocade brocade is unique in technology. There are two kinds of warp threads, which are divided into face and bottom sutras.

There are three kinds of weft, one weft pattern is used in combination with the ground, and two weft is specially designed for weft knitting.

In the song brocade dyeing, pure natural dyes are used to dye the silk according to the needs of the pattern pattern before weaving into the weaving process.

Dye selection is very strict, mostly plant dyes, and some mineral dyes, all by hand dyeing.

The song brocade pattern usually takes geometric veins as the skeleton, and fills flowers, Rui grass or eight treasures, eight immortals and eight auspiciousness.

Eight treasures refer to ancient coins, books, paintings, harps, chess and so on. Eight immortals are fans, swords, gourds, branchlets, flutes, green sticks, lotus flowers, etc. the eight auspicious means treasure pots, flower umbrellas, Falun, 100 clean, lotus, Pisces, conch and so on.

Song brocade not only has high appreciation and collection value, but also solves the practical problem that any silk handicraft can not achieve.

Song brocade is soft and strong, with exquisite design, wearable and washable repeatedly, so it is especially suitable for mounting painting and calligraphy.

Deputy secretary general and research level advanced technology of Suzhou arts and Crafts Society

Leng Jian told the surging news that Song Jin is currently a national intangible heritage protection project in Suzhou, and also a world cultural heritage.

In the early days of liberation, there was once a song Brocade Factory in Suzhou. Later it was renamed tapestry factory. In the late 90s of last century, many old factories of Arts and crafts were withdrawn after "restructuring", including traditional projects such as song brocade and Suzhou embroidery, which were pformed from the state-run enterprises of the planned economy to individual businesses. At present, Suzhou song brocade is mainly used for painting and calligraphy mounting and making of boxes, as well as daily necessities such as pillowcases, quilts and so on. But due to the limited use, there are not many individual enterprises in Song Jin, and the scale is also small.

In Wu Jianhua's view, the best protection for song brocade is "live protection".

The key problem of "living state protection" is how to conquer the compatibility of ancient looms and modern equipment, so as to realize the first step of "Resurrection song brocade".

In August 2009, Wu Jianhua bought a hundred years old factory Suzhou Soochow silk weaving factory, and has a group of experienced management and technical personnel.

In 2012, the company spent 2 million yuan to develop an electronic jacquard machine that accords with the traditional brocade weaving technology and technical parameters, and stepped out of the first step of the industrialization of song brocade.

Although this action has aroused great doubts in old experts and old technicians, the idea of "revival of song brocade" has been rewarded from three years ago to APEC.

A brocade handicraft scholar told surging journalists that the song brocade appeared on APEC was not the traditional song brocade in the traditional sense, but the improved version and the innovative song brocade.

"The basic structure of clothing, including the style and color of the block, is the song brocade, but it has changed on the pattern. It is designed according to the requirements and changes of APEC."

As the representative successor of Song Jin, Qian Xiaoping, the first curator of the Suzhou Silk Museum, has repeatedly issued the call to protect Song Jin.

11, in an interview with surging news, she said, "I have been dealing with silk for a lifetime, and the decline of traditional silk technology has distressed me."

For this reason, since the 60s of last century, Qian Xiaoping has devoted himself to the investigation and study of traditional silk technology, especially song brocade.

In a book, she recorded in detail the organizational structure and production process of song brocade.

In the 80s of last century, when people did not realize the protection of traditional crafts, Qian Xiaoping set out to set up the first National Silk Museum in Suzhou.

"I spent a lot of painstaking effort, and after more than 10 years, I finally set up the first silk museum in 1990. In the museum, we can see the traditional silk of various styles, such as song brocade, brocade brocade, and weaving."

In 2006, Qian Xiaoping led students to try to replicate the ancient song brocade looms.

In the past ten years, the state has begun to excavate the inheritance of non heritage. Song brocade has been paid much attention to, and the excavation, inheritance and research of traditional song brocade have been deepened.

This time, the prosperity of fabrics provided for APEC is also a representative of positive actions under the background of mining and inheritance of song brocade. They have done a lot of work in the field of innovation and development.

Qian Xiaoping said.