Focusing On The Development Of Zhangzhou'S Textile Industry
"The ancient textile industry in Zhangzhou was quite developed, and it was most prosperous in the Ming Dynasty.
In the Ming Dynasty, Zhangzhou was the main producing area of Chinese silk, and the fabric was popular at home and abroad.
Zheng Laifa, a researcher with Zhangzhou municipal CPPCC history and culture, said.
According to Wanli's "Longxi County annals", the local silk is made of silk and silk.
Zhang is skillful in weaving and is named after the world.
"Min Bu Shu" listed Fujian commodities, "Zhangzhi yarn silk" ranked second.
Before the opening of the Tang Dynasty, the textile industry in Zhangzhou mainly woven gowns and linen cloth, which was mostly produced by Native women.
According to the records of the old county records in Zhangpu, Shen Huaiyuan, the messenger of emperor Liu Song in the Southern Dynasties, had the phrase "children practicing Ge Ge" in the poem "Suian".
From the Tang Dynasty to the Song Dynasty, some of the counties in Zhangzhou were planted with kapok, and the fibers were woven into kimby cloth.
Zhangzhou folk expert Zheng Huicong said that in the Song Dynasty, there was a "kapok shop" in Zhangpu's mouth area today.
During the Yuan Dynasty, Zhangzhou was rich in Zhang silk.
After the east gate of Zhangzhou, the city, the mountain top, the six stone and the Pu tail are the middle points for the production of Zhang silk.
The products are made of big spinning, small spinning, silk towel, black claw yarn and so on, among which the black claw yarn with jacquard is most famous.
Zhang silk, Zhang gauze and Gibeb are exported to Japan.
At that time, the textile workshop of the official battalion was quite large. In the city proper of Zhangzhou, there was a miscellaneous Bureau, specializing in the production of handicraft, and making it a permanent rent.
With the rise of the folk weaving industry, the dyeing and printing industry has been rising synchronously and handed down from generation to generation.
The genealogy of Chen Clan in Chihu, Zhangpu, recorded that Chen Dao, the first ancestor, moved to Chai Lake from the east of Zhangzhou in the Song Dynasty. He used dyed cloth as the industry and later developed into a large-scale dyed cloth workshop, known as "Chen Ran".
Tao Zhao's eldest son Meng ye, whose descendants moved to the west of the city, set up a semicolon, called "upper Chen Ran"; second son Zhong ye, whose descendants lived in Chihu lake, was called "lower Chen Ran".
This dyed cloth family opened from the end of the Southern Song Dynasty and flourished from the Yuan Dynasty to the Ming Dynasty, which symbolized the flourishing of the folk weaving industry at that time.
In the Ming Dynasty, the textile industry in Zhangzhou had greater development.
Zhang people produce many fine textiles on the basis of absorbing advanced textile technology at home and abroad.
Silk, yarn, silk, silk, satin, velvet, silk, cloth, ramie cloth, banana cloth, linen, and so on.
The north of the Longxi County, which is now a suburb of Xiangcheng, is the best in the province.
In Zhangpu County, there are silk fabrics, white silk and so on.
At that time, there were many varieties of textiles produced in Zhangzhou, which were selling well both at home and abroad.
Domestic products, "Wu Yue is like running water", exports are "heavy for the other country".
According to Ming Wanli "records of Zhangzhou Prefecture", the silk products produced in Zhangzhou are velvet, which is foreign, and today the Zhangs are woven with velvet.
The iron wire is woven and cut out, and the mechanism is steamed by clouds. It is almost impossible to get rid of it. Ronnie, who has nearly finished weaving, has a large number of labor expenses.
Lu Lu silk and Zhang weaves forced the production of Luzhou, but they were not very distinguishable.
Yarns, Zhang gauze, and old ones are pushed by the sea, and now all of them are skilled in weaving.
Chi Luo, Zhang system also learn Wu Zhong, not as good as yarn.
Light satin and Zhang silk are different from others.
During the prosperous period of Kangxi and Qianlong in the Qing Dynasty, the foreign trade policy became more relaxed and Zhangzhou's textile industry continued to develop.
There are not only specialized textile factories, but also many dyeing houses in the city. The dyed fabrics are colorful and the color of Indigo is the first in the country.
Fabrics such as Zhang Rong, Zhang silk, Zhang silk, Zhang gauze, Gibeb, fine gauze, linen, banana cloth, fake robe, decorative pattern silk cloth, pineapple cloth and so on are of high quality and beauty. They are well known both at home and abroad, and are sold to Ningbo, Shanghai, Taiwan and Southeast Asia by Xiamen port.
After the Opium War, foreign cloth and yarn poured in from Xiamen port, and Zhangzhou's textile industry was in decline.
Daoguang twenty-six years (1846), and sericulture and silk weaving, but not many products, mainly for tribute and export.
At that time, only velvet can participate in the competition of foreign textiles.
Li Jinming, Professor of Nanyang Research Institute of Xiamen University, believes that after the Qing Dynasty, the popularity of cotton cloth greatly affected the promotion of silk. At that time, people were keen on cotton and silk was left out in the cold.
Judging from the silk products exported from Zhangzhou, the Qing Dynasty was obviously not as well developed as the Ming Dynasty. This is an inevitable result of the social development process.
After the Sino Japanese War, Zhangzhou's textile industry resumed.
Before the revolution of 1911, there were many weaving factories, workshops and spinning and weaving experts in the southeast township of Zhangzhou.
The east gate of the Fucheng city connects the official Pavilion (in this Xinhua East Road) area, and the local shop (workshop) has developed from more than 10 to twenty or thirty.
More famous companies such as Yi Fang, Shun Shun, Yuan Cheng Chang, Zhen De, Zhengyuan, and several printing and dyeing workshops are dyed by cold dyeing.
Textile, printing and dyeing has become a major industry in Zhangzhou Fucheng.
During the period of the Republic of China, the weaving industry in Zhangzhou was expanded.
In 1935, there were 14 cotton textile factories in Longxi County, with an annual output of 3300 cloth, 3 towel factories and an annual towel 1600 dozen.
In 1937, there were more than 200 looms and looms in Zhangzhou, more than 900 looms, and more than 600 pieces of cloth exported each month (20 yards per piece).
Both scale and output are the top of the province.
In 1947, there were more than 2000 textile enterprises in Longxi County.
Only 690 journalists came to the trade association, mostly textile and medium-sized households. Those who did not attend the meeting were mostly small farmers who were employed as sideline businesses.
In the same year, Zhangzhou velvet entertainers, including Hu Mei and six stone villages in Longwen District, had only 10 people, who were over 60 years old, and lacked tools.
velvet
It is difficult to produce.
Zheng Laifa said that during the war of resistance against Japan to the founding of new China, the production of Zhangzhou native cloth was flourishing, and its products were supplied throughout the southwest Fujian Province.
After the founding of new China, the original Zhangzhou
Handicraft textile printing and dyeing industry
Production will soon be resumed.
According to the survey in 1952, there were 132 weaving households and 230 looms in the urban area of Zhangzhou. There were 486 weaving households and 541 looms in Longxi County.
It produces more than 120 thousand pieces throughout the year.
In the same year, Longxi district began to organize textile production cooperatives. Most of the private households who had not yet joined the cooperatives were still producing and selling their own products.
Overview
Zhangzhou
The rise and fall of the silk industry and the dispute over the origin of the "new Satin" core fabric "Zhang Satin" in APEC this time, Zheng Laifa feels that Zhangzhou should get such inspiration: innovation can develop; backward will be eliminated.
Due to the lack of technical strength, equipment and talents, and after the founding of the people's Republic of China, the development of textile industry in Suzhou and other places has already been in the front. Zhangzhou should restore relevant production and make rational decisions and scientific research.
From the perspective of the protection of intangible cultural heritage, Zhangzhou should first make good use of the only existing embroidery.
As Zhang Satin was pformed by Suzhou, in the Ming Dynasty, velvet production in Zhangzhou was extremely prosperous. If possible, Jiangsu should learn the skills of Zhangzhou velvet, restore velvet production and return velvet back to Zhangzhou.
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