H&M Creative Director: How Long A Cooperation Mode Can Last Is Also A Problem.

If we only look at the first impression,

It looks more like a businesswoman than the creative director of H&M, though these two professions have long been unclear.

Van Den Bosch, 71, has worked in H&M for more than 20 years and is one of the most influential creative directors in the fashion industry today.

Van Den Bosch is one of the speakers of Hongkong design week in December.

From Karl Lagerfeld in 2004, Comme des Gar ons in 2008 to Alexander Wang in 2014, H&M launched 13 designer collaboration Series in 10 years, each of which led to customers queuing and snapping all night.

As a review of these 10 years, H&M also launched a book "The First Ten Years" in November this year.

Van Den Bosch is the most important driver behind the business model of H&M.

although

It is not the first to create a brand of designer cooperation series, but it is the most successful fashion company running this model. It has excavated a large intermediate market between high-end fashion brands and fast fashion.

"Most people are still not familiar with these designers, nor are they able to buy their brands in every city.

I think H&M has taught people a lot of knowledge about fashion history through such cooperation.

Van Den Bosch explained to the guardian why H&M decided to start launching the designer collaboration Series in 2004.

But to be more precise, popularizing fashion knowledge is the result of designer collaboration series, not the reason.

The sales volume created by the designer collaboration series may explain the initial motivation of H&M.

In 2004, cooperation with Karl Lagerfeld increased H&M's global turnover by 24% in a month.

In the US, 19 stores sell 200 thousand pieces of "Karl Lagerfeld x H&M" in one day, with a turnover of up to $12 million.

In 2005, H&M chose to launch a series of cooperation with Stella McCartney, the designer of women's clothing. The enthusiasm of buyers is not as good as that of Karl Lagerfeld series, but the sales of H&M also increased by 11% in the same month.

To some extent, the H&M designer collaboration series can quickly get attention, and choosing Karl Lagerfeld as the first partner has played a key role.

At the same time, as Chanel and Fendi creative director, Karl Lagerfeld is the most famous designer at present.

"He is the symbol of the industry, he is the designer of Chanel, and his career is long enough, so we think Karl is a good start."

In the meeting room of Hongkong design business week, Van Den Bosch told the interface reporter.

Van Den Bosch declined to say whether Karl Lagerfeld is the first designer of H&M to cooperate with the series, but Karl Lagerfeld is the best candidate to start the battle, whether from the individual's appeal of the designer or the openness of the cooperation.

All along, Karl Lagerfeld has been active in various business cooperation projects. In 2003, the Australian Version of "Vogue" looked for the first "guest editor" and also Karl Lagerfeld.

The success of "Karl Lagerfeld x H&M" led H&M to decide to standardize the series.

Every less than a year later, there will be a new series of designers collaborated on the launch.

With the increasingly fierce competition in fast fashion brands, brands need more sales incentives.

Van Den Bosch is unwilling to let the designers who are involved in cooperation be compared with each other. She values the difference of styling between designers.

"We must have different designers who have worked with us before. For example, we found Alexander Wang this year. Next time, we won't find designers of fashion design style.

In addition, the designer himself is willing to cooperate with us is also very important, right time, right people. "

Van Den Bosch said.

Not every designer can get a positive response, but some designers have refused the invitation of H&M. Some designers will worry that the cooperation with fast fashion brands will lower the image of high-end fashion brands.

Alber Elbaz, the creative director of French luxury brand Lanvin, once held this idea. Before 2010, he had not considered working with H&M.

But H&M will not spend too much time persuading designers.

"If

If you don't like this kind of cooperation, you don't have to keep talking.

If they like it, they will do it. "

Van Den Bosch said, "most designers are very generous, but others choose to retain something of their own.

Designers will benefit a lot from our cooperation. After all, they get such a large order. "

The market and concept of fashion consumption are changing. The mix of high-end fashion brands and fast fashion brands has become popular. With the successful precedent, the negotiation between H&M and designers has become more and more successful.

In 2008, Comme des Gar ons, founded by Japanese designer Wakubo Rei, also introduced a series of cooperation with H&M.

"I believe the success of H&M is not only to sell many basic clothes, but they are also looking for new ways to break through.

That's why I respect them.

Wakubo Rei had previously accepted the interview with W magazine.

As a matter of fact, H&M will be specially arranged according to the designer's characteristics before each cooperation.

For example, the first place of "Comme des Gar ons x H&M" is Tokyo; in 2012, David Beckham launched the underwear series for H&M design, and H&M built a half naked statue of David in several major cities around the world; before 2014, the designers and designers held a conference in Shanghai to invite local celebrities and celebrities.

In choosing which designer to work with, H&M also followed the popularity list and the fashion trend at that time.

Van Den Bosch says she knows who the customers of every collaboration want to be. "I met Alexander a few years ago, and he was very good at designing sports style fashions, and then we finally had the opportunity to cooperate."

This "opportunity" refers to Alexander Wang, which has become the hottest designer in the last two years. It also means that since last year, sports wind has almost dominated the T platforms. From Chanel to wearing high boots, to New Balance, the fire has continued to drive the trend. H&M naturally does not want to miss it.

It is only when tenth years after the series of designers collaborate, this model will inevitably become old and the novelty of customers will gradually decrease. Maybe H&M is the time to think about new ideas.

"I don't know what we will do in the next 10 years. I think the designer's cooperation mode can last for two years, but it will last longer, I'm not sure."

Van Den Bosch told the interface reporter.