How Did Women Dress In Tang Dynasty?

Three sets of women's wear in the Tang Dynasty: skirts, shirts and dresses.

The upper part of the body is a shirt with narrow sleeves, and the lower part is a skirt.

Fan Bingbing's "Legend of Wu Mei Niang" launched a hot silver screen, while the women's wearing a piece of clothing that breeds breast dew has aroused public controversy.

How did women dress in Tang Dynasty? Is it really so open?

An ancient costume researcher told reporters: "

The basic dress is three pieces: skirts, blouses, and shears.

The main character "Wu Mei Niang" has nothing to do with the Tang Dynasty. There are only a few of the clothes of the ladies in the Tang Dynasty.

In addition, the costumes in the early Tang Dynasty were more compact and the image was also thin and thin.

It is worth noting that the breasts and breasts that are often opened in TV plays are not opened in the early Tang Dynasty.

Before and after the opening of Yuan Zhou, the neckline of the shirt was lower and there were some pictures of "light red shirt to cover up the breasts".

In addition, the clothes that are half breasts are usually worn on specific occasions, such as in court or boudoir.

In the Tang dynasty women's dress and make-up, Sun Ji, an archaeologist, mentioned that women's clothing was firming in the early Tang Dynasty (FIGS. 1 and 2). After the Tang Dynasty (3, 4), the middle Tang (Figure 5), to the late Tang Dynasty (map 6, 7), the sleeves and skirts of the sleeves increased.

In many Tang Dynasty history and novels, there are records of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty.

In the Tang Dynasty, Niu Seng Ru's "mysterious records" recorded the dress of a civilian woman: "children holding boxes, there are green skirts, white shirts, green children".

In addition, there is "the old man in the fairy tale," Xu said, "when he was in the Tang Dynasty, he had a wife of" Cao Liu Yin "," Huang Luo Yin mud skirt "," five halo silver mud shirts ", monofilament red earth silver mud son, and Yi Yi Du's full dress.

Sun Ji, an archaeologist, wrote in the article "women's clothing and makeup" in the Tang Dynasty.

Skirts, blouses, and shit, this is the time of Tang Dynasty.

The three essential factors, regardless of status and dignity, dress and frugal, are 3 essential elements.

"Shirt" is a long sleeved jacket worn by women in the Tang Dynasty, with a narrow sleeves and short body.

In the literature of the Tang Dynasty, every mention of everyday women's clothing is often called "shirt" and "shirt", such as "Lotus skirt, willow flower skirt", "red shirt narrow wrapped small arm", "fragrant shirt narrow sleeve cutting" and so on.

In the Tang Dynasty warehouse account book unearthed in the 206 Tomb of Ashtar, Turpan, Xinjiang, a large number of ordinary people's pawnshop rankings were registered, including women's clothes, almost all of them.

The shirt usually refers to a single garment. In winter, it changes to a jacket and becomes a "jacket".

In addition, in the early Tang Dynasty, the sleeves of the sleeves were narrow, and the poems were often described as "red shirts and narrow arms," and so on.

The collar styles of sweaters are varied. According to pottery figurines, murals and other cultural relics, there are many forms such as straight collar, cross collar, round neck collar, round neck lapel and so on.

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Skirts in sixteen national tomb murals of Ding Jia gate, Jiuquan, Gansu

The upper body wears "shirt" and the lower part wears "skirt".

In the early Tang Dynasty, women in the Sui Dynasty wore long skirts, and their skirts were waist high, even above their armpits. They looked very long skirts.

Mr. Sun Ji textual research, because

It has a narrow width, and a few pieces of cloth are stitched together to sew a skirt.

In the Tang Dynasty, it was usually made of six pieces of cloth and silk. In the new book of Tang Dynasty, Tang Wenzong had asked for "five skirts of women's skirts" under the premise of advocating frugality.

Some expensive skirts range from seven to eight.

According to the records of the width and width of the cloth in the old Tang Dynasty book of food, each piece of cloth is about 0.53 meters wide, and the five group advocated by Wen Zong is about 2.65 meters wide.

Most women in Tang Dynasty love colorful skirts. In the literature, red skirts are often called "stone skirts".

For example, "Kaiyuan Tianbao incident" said that when the Changan ladies visited spring, they used "red skirts to hang and hang up to hang banquet".

Many of the poets' poems also reflect this preference, such as Bai Juyi's "pomegranate flower dyed dance skirt" and Tang Dynasty man Chu in the May prostitute.

1 silk paintings in murals

Besides skirts and shirts, women in the Tang Dynasty wore "dresses".

In the Tang Dynasty, a long scarf was also called "silk" or "Zi Zi". It was made of light gauze and Luo, wrapped around the shoulders and twisted around the arms.

Silk and silk are often painted with decorative patterns or painted with gold, silver and silver. They are very beautiful. In the novels of the Tang Dynasty, there are always records of "gorgeous clothes" and "Purple Silver mud".

In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, the decoration of Zi Zi is more and more magnificent. Besides printing and gold, there are many decorative techniques, such as embroidery, coloring, valleye and halo.

There are also more heavy clippings. In late Tang Dynasty, the "ritual towel" and "shawl towel" were also equivalent to "Zi Zi" clothing.

Silk and silk are not the inherent clothing of the Han nationality.

Mr. Sun Ji thought that silk and silk were probably originated in Western Asia, and later accepted by Central Asian Buddhist art and spread to China in the East.

In addition to the above basic clothing, women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty often has a short sleeved jacket called "half arm".

Mr. Sun Ji textual research "half arm", also known as "half sleeves", first appeared in the Three Kingdoms period, and it has become popular in the Sui Dynasty. Men and women in the Tang Dynasty will wear it. Relatively speaking, women are wearing more half arms, and half arms are usually made of fabrics of better quality.

On the frescoes of Princess Tang Yongtai's tomb, the Painted Ladies are the upper body with a half arm outside the shirt, and the female figurines unearthed above the middle Tang tombs often wear a half arm figure.

However, the half arms were more popular in women's clothing only in the early Tang Dynasty, and the middle and late Tang Dynasty was significantly reduced.

This is because in the early Tang Dynasty, the women's jacket was narrow and suitable for half arms. After the middle Tang Dynasty, as the women's clothing became wider and wider, they gradually did not adapt to the half arms.

We can also see women's portraits in Tang Dynasty wearing large sleeves.

The Tang dynasty women's large sleeves were also called "dresses". During the Han and Jin Dynasties, the "Yi" was a short coat. In the Tang Dynasty, the "dress" had begun to develop in costumes.

In the literature of the Tang Dynasty, there were more "big sleeves" referring to the magnificent sleeves, such as the dress of the palace, the dress of the ladies, and so on.

The solemn dress of the people can also be used as "Jiao". In Bai Juyi's "twenty deep spring marriages", there are "Chunshen married women, purple row pheasants", so they call the wedding dress "Yi", and there is also a pheasant mark that symbolizes the dress.

However, apart from the characteristics of big sleeves, the style of the neckline and the way of wearing are not much different from that of the shirt.

1 large sleeves in mural paintings