Detective: The Road Of Costume Change In Ancient China
According to Wang Xiaoqiang, Chinese clothing continues to absorb foreign elements.
Dress culture
It can be said to be eclectic, which has greatly enriched the elements of Chinese clothing.
In addition to the absorption of other dress cultures by various generations, the changes of the dynasties also brought changes in clothing. "When Mr. Shen Congwen wrote the study of Chinese ancient costumes, he often said," the next generation of emperors must dress the people of the last generation who are most valued by their emperors. "
Wang Lao said, of course, Shen Congwen did not write this sentence in the book.
"The evolution of clothing is also a very complicated process. If we want to speak very clearly, we need to understand many aspects."
For the pformation of ancient Chinese costumes, routine is basically Hu Fu.
Tang Costume
The absorption and evolution of dress culture of other nationalities.
Zhou Xibao, a famous clothing expert, summed up five major changes in costume history in China. The last change was in modern times.
Judging from historical records, the first change of costume was in the Warring States period, that is, the "Hu Fu riding and shooting" of Zhao Guozhao's Wu Ling Wang in history. This change is due to the needs of politics and military, and the introduction of trousers, hooks and boots into the Central Plains of the northwest hunting nation.
According to Mr. Shen Congwen's "Research on ancient Chinese costume", China's complete dress and dress system was established in Han Dynasty.
The development of dyeing and weaving, embroidery and metal technology in the Han Dynasty promoted the change of clothing decoration.
By the end of Han Dynasty, China was in the period of Wei, Jin, southern and Northern Dynasties.
During this period, according to Mr. Hu Shi's comment, "the barbarians entered the Central Plains", and the non Han people established power in the Central Plains.
During this period, the exchange and blend of ethnic groups are very common. Eventually, some ethnic groups are also integrated into the Han nationality. During the period, the fusion between the costumes of all nationalities is inevitable.
Later, Zhu Xi, a Confucian scholar of Song Dynasty, said, "today's uniform is a military garment of the barbarians, and it flows into China at the end of five Hu."
This is the second dress change in the history of Chinese clothing concluded by Mr. Zhou Xibao.
The third time was in the Tang Dynasty.
The Tang Dynasty is a prosperous and open historical period in Chinese history.
According to historical records, "in the beginning of Tianbao, the nobility and the people were good for Hu Hu Hu Hu."
"Too often happy is still Hu song, noble food for food, all the ladies compete for clothes."
("Old Tang book and public service aspiration") wearing Hu clothes became a fashion.
Hu costume and Western costume influenced the dress of the Tang Dynasty greatly. The rich and colorful costumes of this period are the result of communication with foreign cultures.
This is also a conscious period for Chinese clothing history to absorb different ethnic costumes.
Hundreds of years later, the Qing Dynasty, established by the aristocratic aristocracy of the Manchu people, began to use shaved modification as a means of political domination and oppression. After a period of harsh measures and forced implementation, the Han man finally shaved and put on braids and put on a full load.
This is another large-scale costume revolution in the history of Chinese clothing.
It is precisely because of this change in costumes that the Manchu style of clothing has become the mainstream of Chinese clothing in a large scale.
This is the fourth revolution in the history of Chinese clothing.
Cheongsam, which has evolved from full dress, is widely loved by the people. Now many people like it. Of course, cheongsam has also joined the aesthetic elements of modern people. Cheongsam, as a costumes with ethnic customs, evolved from the robes of Manchu women.
In the early Qing Dynasty, the Manchu women wore their gowns, and the Han women still wore their skirts under their jackets. In the late Qing Dynasty, the Manchu imitated the Han ethos and gradually changed their robes. By 1920s, cheongsam was once again reformed by the influence of Western costumes, and then entered the wardrobe of the vast majority of Chinese women.
The fifth dress revolution in history is after the revolution of 1911.
After 1919, Western-style clothes, as a symbol of new culture, impacted traditional robe and mandarin jacket, and gradually became popular.
In 20s and 30s twentieth Century, with the coastal developed cities such as Shanghai, Guangzhou and Tianjin as the center, there was an upsurge in Western-style clothes among young students, teachers, companies, and offices of high schools and schools.
For the first time, the government of the Republic of China used the western dress as "Chinese dress" and the western-style clothes moved eastward. From then on, western dress patterns and dress culture profoundly influenced and impacted traditional Chinese costumes, including clothing aesthetics and dressing concepts.
Undoubtedly, this is the most profound change in the history of Chinese clothing, which has been affected so far.
Dressing in Han Dynasty
Seven characteristics
1. when wearing a coat, the collar must be exposed when the collar is large and bent.
2. dressing must be made of white fabric.
The width of the 3. sleeves is two feet.
4. shirt sleeveless.
5. when fur clothing is worn, the fur is outward.
6. the waist belt is very exquisite. The hook used is made of gold into various animal shapes.
7. men maintain the custom of wearing knives, but the knives they wear are tangible and have no real value, mainly showing their appearance.
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