Dialogue Thom Browne: Be The Most Authentic Self.

New York, America - "I only know I have to continue to do business.

I am stubborn, but I am not stupid. "

Designer Thom Browne talked about ways to balance concepts and business.

Fashion is a business.

No matter how you play the concept, you must first ensure that your tactics can make the business go smoothly.

No matter what you do, you must consider business feasibility. "

Thom knows nothing about the positive and negative sides of the coin.

He is the head card player in the fashion world, and the most dramatic elements are in the show, for example, the models were once tied to the bed and slowly rose from the coffin.

In the 2013 spring and summer men's release, he put the show in a garden in Paris, opening several minotaos, which were painted silver and with unpretended omens. Then the male models appeared as a group of life size "camouflages". The appearance was unforgettable. For example, the women's clothing series of 2011 autumn and winter was released, the venue was New York public library, all the women's models were dressed in an alternative Catholic nun robe, and the two male models of the priests appeared to untie their robes one after another, and then they began to show up.

Thom estimates that he can sell 80% to 90% costumes on the show.

But it seems paradoxical that the designer who is meticulous in his own military hairstyle is most famous for his rigour and wrinkle suits. These suits drew inspiration from 50 and 60s, and the length of sleeves and trouser legs were shorter than those of ordinary suits. And those highly practical jackets, shirts and knitted sweaters were striking and ingeniously decorated with tricolor stripes, which became the symbol of his personal style.

The series now sells more than 160 retail outlets. It has also developed into the seventh year of the special cooperation series "Black Fleece (black wool)", which is famous for its Brooks Brothers.

In March last year, Thom's second direct retail store (also his first independent flagship store abroad) opened in Qingshan District, Tokyo.

The first lady of the United States, Michelle Obama, was also just the beginning of Thom.

He joined the design of his silk jacquard jacket and skirt at his husband's second presidential inauguration, making Thom Browne a household name for the first time in the United States. His name is no longer known only by fashion connoisseurs. Even taxi drivers know his name.

In 1965, Thom was born in a heavily Catholic Irish Catholic family, ranking the fourth among seven brothers and sisters.

He grew up in the old industrial rust belt of Allentown, Pennsylvania, and was not at all close to fashion.

"I never thought about fashion when I was little," he recalls.

"I didn't know that there was fashion.

I went to the shops to buy clothes, and I never thought that these clothes were designed and made by someone.

These clothes are two different products to me. "

But the children's wardrobe -- the gray flannel trousers and jackets worn in winter, the Navy coat and khaki trousers worn in summer -- undoubtedly influenced his design aesthetics deeply.

"I think you can see a lot in my series of feelings that truly represent the United States, or represent an emotion on the east coast of the United States."

He said, "these are clothes that we have been wearing from childhood to size. They are classic American sweatshirts and dresses."

When I haven't touched the fashion circle, as Thom said, what I am most interested in is "sports and campus life."

From the age of 9, he insisted on swimming for several hours every day.

When he was at school, he went to Indiana to study University of Notre Dame and joined the swimming team of University of Notre Dame.

People may not be surprised why they can see the shadow of some athletes in Thom's works, from the raincoat with the tennis racket pattern to the white tuxedo with the edge of football clothes.

"You can see a lot of inspiration from motion design in my series -- from fabric to the emotion I want to pass through clothes."

Thom points out.

His family is mostly lawyers, doctors and businessmen. "Parents always emphasize to us repeatedly that we must do things and do things well."

But Thom moved to Losangeles after graduation to pursue performance.

He has become a commercial actor and has a reputation for being handsome and statues. He has also taken some advertising of a ibuprofen to play a running athlete with a headache.

But more importantly, he began experimenting in the old suit: first wash the suit, throw it into the dryer, roll it up and down, and cut the suit short, thus creating his trademark wrinkle suit.

In 1998, Thom gave up the show and moved to New York.

In less than two weeks, he got a job as a Giorgio Armani and engaged in the wholesale business of the brand.

"I only wanted to find a job at that time, but this job is just about fashion."

He recalls.

Not long after that, he arrived again.

He has really honed his skills, and has designed some trousers, sweaters and shirts for Oxford.

"It didn't have any profound impact on my design skills," Thom said. "But I learned how to run a business."

But what's important is that he met Queens, New York.

Rocco Ciccarelli, who is often referred to as the tailor behind the tailor, has been sewing samples for Club Monaco. In 2011, when Thom founded its own brand, it also turned to Rocco, and finally decided to make five suits suit all grey.