Anti Fashion Designer Yamamoto Teruji
Yamamoto Teruji is the master of clothes for the bad guys.
Yamamoto Teruji, the Japanese name Yohji Yamamoto, is the world fashion Japan wave.
Designer
And the new head.
He is noted for his simplicity and charm, fluency and anti fashion design.
In the mid 90s of last century, Yamamoto Teruji became famous in Europe by working with Heiner Miller, a German dramatist, in the visual design of opera.
He said he would never wear a tie, even if he was received by the emperor.
He told the young man, "stop studying, and live your life."
He openly declared himself a "bad man" design.
clothing
。
The clothing sign says, "what is more boring than wearing rules?"
He is Yamamoto Teruji, a fashion Icon in the past 30 years with a simple style of "anti fashion".
In 1981, he and his friend Wakubo Rei, in the fashion week of Paris, made a blockbuster with the fluffy and strange black fashion. Their unprecedented physical display style made the stale European fashion circle staggering and incomprehensible, calling it "the aesthetics of killing in Hiroshima".
After years of recall of public opinion attacks, he said, "I am not deliberately challenging anything, not to oppose it.
fashion
。
I just want to open my own shop there.
That's all. "
Many people think Yamamoto Teruji is a riddle, but he is just a few words, explaining his world outlook in his clothes.
He loathed coquettish women, hated the crude and simple concept of masculinity and femininity, hated cumbersome European ornaments, loathed the rules of a clothing series every six months, and had no time to use the "fermented", natural, mature and mature beautiful fabrics.
He said, I want to design the time itself.
And "bad men"
Freemasonry
Because the family was poor and grew up under the mother's harsh and protective care, Yamamoto Teruji was never able to integrate well into the world.
"If I don't succeed in my career, I think it's only a crime to get rid of it."
Fortunately, there were fewer criminals on the streets of Tokyo, but in the movie "Four Seas brothers" and "the seat city", you saw Takeshi wearing a Yamamoto Teruji Oversize suit or a wind coat to become the most stylish black man in the history.
Yamamoto Teruji, 72, said in his autobiography, "I dropped a bomb," that he hated Retrospect and did not believe in the future.
Even if he declared bankruptcy five years ago because of 6 billion debt, he did not see his will be eliminated.
After giving away his business to others and being his own creative director, he can finally immerse himself in the world of design.
In the mid 90s of last century, Yamamoto Teruji became famous in Europe by working with Heiner Miller, a German dramatist, in the visual design of opera.
However, he did not like Milan and New York.
"They think good clothes are good clothes. They think fashion designers are chasing fashion constantly, and winners will buy a castle or a private plane."
What he hates most is any form of authority.
"I hate those great people and things.
What I care about is how to design clothes without authority. "
He also hates body restraint and symmetrical tailoring, and does not like advanced customization.
He used black to oppose flashy and unnecessary.
The unpretentious black became his symbol, leading the most brilliant Studio 54 club from Tokyo, Paris to New York.
Those who dislike authority eventually establish "authority".
For men who are not fashionable or fashionable, Yamamoto likes to stimulate them, but never does it.
When he thought of a man's hand in his pocket, Yamamoto Teruji often thought of American Idol James Dean and Robert Mitchum, who are known for their "rebellious" image.
That movement is often a sign that tells about the hooligans who live on the edge of society and have close ties with the underworld.
They are rebellious, ironic and rebellious to society, and have a skeptical attitude towards society.
He may live in Tokyo, Paris or New York, "lingering in the dark streets, facing a hostile big man.
At that time, his hand in his pocket was ready and ready to fight.
In the next moment, he took out a bunch of keys, as if he was holding a weapon, holding it tightly in his hand.
No wonder Yamamoto Teruji would have a working vest for 13 pockets.
"If I could drop my passport, I wouldn't even have a suitcase."
His
Women's wear
The model always wears flat heeled shoes, with few heavy make-up.
He has always advocated that women should have the power to dress like men, and that women wearing military uniform and hunting clothes are the sexiest.
Even the evening dress of women wants to put on their pockets, "so they don't need to carry a handbag."
My idea is always so funny that no handbag will be stolen.
Escape from work can not escape fate.
Yamamoto's mother is a tailor in Tokyo.
He regards his mother as an idol but is also deeply fettered by "mother love control".
In his youth, he was determined to become a painter.
But in order to satisfy the latter, he thought of being a hard working mother to raise him. He went to a famous university full of rich children and went to the third year of college. But he was frustrated to find that everything there meant nothing to him.
After graduating from college, Yamamoto found no way to help her mother's tailor shop.
This made her very angry because she had hoped that Yamamoto could find a job in a big company.
She told him that he should at least learn basic tailoring.
So Yamamoto went to the professional technical school of clothing. However, when she measured the size of her female customers, she was upset, and could not think of any effect on magazines.
He longed to get rid of his mother, but never realized that his childhood experience determined his creative consciousness throughout his life.
The Kabuki street in Shinjuku is filled with women who please men, but he can't feel any attraction from women who are good at using sex glamour.
But the mother's painstaking trample of the sewing machine, or the distraction of the needle on the side of the garment, gave him a strong impulse.
Working women mean to him that "I have no way to control her time", but he wants to respect them from the heart, and at the same time, because he can not get their attention and give birth to inexplicable hatred.
This complex and complex psychology led Yamamoto Teruji to decide to avoid making such a cute dress like a Laurie in a man's eyes at all costs.
Yamamoto Teruji's design of women's wear is anti male chauvinism, which stems from his childhood experience.
When he was a teenager, Yamamoto Teruji had to hate his mother to die.
A few years later, he was in his autobiography, and his old age mother still chatted on the phone and asked him if his hair was too long to be sorted out.
He begged, "please, please don't care for me again. My age is two times faster than your husband's life."
Then I asked the old mother "do not leave me, do not leave me alone".
As for his father, who died in the battle of Philippines, there were no father's bones at the funeral.
When he was puberty, he asked his mother again and again: why do I have no father?
When he grew up, Yamamoto Teruji poured a cup of whisky into his stomach, playing with women, wandering day and night in the streets of Tokyo, sleeping on sleeping pills.
In his relationship, only he pursued after the woman. If she turns around, everything will come to an end.
He said he longed for life, and asked, "can I even die without the unromantic love of a married woman?" because since childhood, he has questioned the so-called correct ethics and believes that one of the examples of those "extraordinary people" needs to fight is loyalty to their families.
He escaped to work, but he could not escape fate.
After half a hundred years, a woman told Yamamoto Teruji to give birth to a child for him.
He did not have any reason to refuse, so the other women, who were dating one by one, carefully told the whole story and asked them to break up with themselves, and the women readily agreed.
After that, Yamamoto Teruji accepted the pre pregnancy examination of the woman's designated hospital and received the certificate.
Until the woman conceived his flesh and blood.
Yamamoto Teruji, a more than 50 year old celebrity, went to see his son on his parents' day.
The four year old boy sneaked a glance at him and ran away without seeing him again.
Yamamoto did not know whether his son was embarrassed or angry, but felt that the child was subtly controlling his feelings.
He seemed to see the young self.
"If a child knows who I am, I pretend that I don't know him, and that he is deeply hurt by this" don't know where to go "Dad.
At that moment, Yamamoto Teruji, who was strong and hard, was completely overwhelmed by the deepest emotional force in the world, just like paralysis.
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