Analysis Of Lssey Miyake'S "Deconstruction"

In the fashion world, the term "Deconstruction" has become more common than ever before.

In the spring and summer and autumn winter Paris fashion week this year, Vogue Anna, the Japanese creative director Dello Russo and Garage editor Elie Elie, all used the highly exaggerated Japanese deconstruction dress as street Jersey.

The two people walked into the show, tacitly, only to see that the Maison Martin Margiela 2015 spring and summer were also highly styled: This is the three year old John Galliano masterpiece in the fashion world.

The design of John Galliano has never been changed.

There are stripped shoulders hanging from the waist, with masks like future fighters; sewing with patches like woody Beige jackets, and black plastic toy cars on jackets.

But this kind of weird style is in today's.

No longer small.

In the past 2015 autumn and winter fashion week in Paris, Anrealage, Simon Porte Jacquemus, Manish Arora and Chinese American designer Li Yang have launched the so-called "Deconstruction" and the unique autumn and winter series.

The person most easily associated with this word is the 1960s French philosopher Jacques Derrida (Jacques Derrid).

He initially used deconstruction for text analysis, and thought that the seemingly regular text structure did not have a solid center, nor did it have an ultimate and unchanged meaning.

In particular, those opposing basic concepts for building "fixed structures", such as homosexuality and heterosexuality, are all mobile and open.

The construction industry, which is most closely related to the structure, first embraced the concept. Young designers made buildings such as bricks and wires, and broke up and down, left and right, and inside and outside.

Let's talk about how this trend of thought affects the fashion industry.

Since the 13 Gothic century Gothic costume, Western clothing has formed its attention from the human body.

Three dimensional effects of the aptamer style of structural stylistic features.

Structuralism has a long history. So far most of the top brands are still practicing this concept, such as the structuralist Giorgio Armani 09 spring summer series, using shoulder pads to shape the perfect shoulder type, and waist design to highlight the waist hip curve, which is evaluated by Vogue: "pay special attention to the design from the body's three-dimensional perspective, just like packing a building."

"

On the contrary, it deconstructs the basis of "starting from the human body".

Such as Wakubo Rei, she reversed the design steps, not according to the human body model design, but first selected cloth, in order to let the cloth get the best display and design.

Lssey Miyake, the representative of the "Deconstruction" in the fashion industry, is famous for its "unstructured" design. It adopts a straight line, no provincial road and five cutting lines. For example, the work of a piece of cloth introduced by 70 era is like putting a blanket on the body directly.

Why is the design of deconstruction so prevalent in Japan? This may be related to Japanese Oriental philosophy and traditional costumes.

In Japanese philosophy, the most important thing is to follow the natural and inaction. For example, the Japanese traditional kimono is a semi-structured design, with very few tailoring and outstanding material characteristics.

Lssey Miyake once said, "my clothing is not as expected as European fashion." he used to use folding, stretching and wrapping techniques to reduce the tailoring and minimize the bondage of clothes to the human body. It is a rebellion against western structuralism's explicit somatotype and a heritage of Japanese style design.

Now, deconstruction is clearly sweeping the globe.

When this kind of line does not pay attention to lines, it does not conform to the conventional style, is constantly recognized, and has attracted many young generation of consumers. The brand has been overlooking the unexpected effect, and the phenomenon of strained deconstruction has begun to appear.

The newly concluded 2015 RickOwens series of autumn and winter series has caused controversy. This minority independent brand has been labeled with "dark, detached, beat position" label, but the topic of walking bird and the mask of future soldier mask of gold foil will soon forget the essence of the brand.