Three Important Problems To Be Solved In The Pformation Of Garment Industry

General view of China at present

Colleges and the entire garment industry have entered a strange circle.

These positions in front of the stage are often ignored by some technical professions such as plate making teachers. All of these lead to our clothing industry falling into the vicious circle of heavy design and light crafts.

To complete the pformation of the industry, the Chinese garment industry obviously needs a FIT of its own to cultivate the professional and technical personnel needed for its development, which is the key to the development of the industry.

Industry pformation first "make" craftsmen

The quality of a garment depends not only on the designer, but also on the craft and technology of the plate maker.

A good plate maker can not only make the designer's work perfectly interpreted, but also extend the original intention of the designer and make his work more perfect.

"I am just a tailor, not a designer. My job is to maximize the value of clothing and then pfer to customers."

Yamamoto Teruji felt more like a tailor than a designer.

Yamamoto Teruji is not the only one who calls herself a tailor. The famous designer Yves Saint Laurent and Lssey Miyake are all tailored to the tailor. This is totally different from the prevailing atmosphere of "heavy design and light craft" in China's clothing industry.

"China's clothing industry generally has a high evaluation of designers. Compared with the technical posts such as plate making artists, the designer who stands at the stage is more popular."

Li Xin, senior fashion designer of China Designers Association.

This phenomenon can also be spied out from the setting of large and medium-sized events in the industry.

"At present, there are many competitions for clothing design in China, but there are only one of us for the competition of garment plate making."

Yang Xiaodong, the head of the national garment and plate making competition and Deputy Secretary General of the China clothing association, said that the purpose of preparing the national costume plate maker contest was to excavate excellent plate makers and enhance the level of plate making technology.

In June 7th, the final of the third national top ten garment and plate making masters competition was held at the Jiangxi Clothing Institute, and more than 100 plate makers from all over the country participated in the competition.

In the end, 10 people from Hangzhou, Sun Changan and others won the "top ten clothing plate making masters in China".

Feng Dehu, executive vice president of China Apparel Association, said

In the pformation of Guan Jian node, it is very important for the development of the industry to explore and cultivate excellent plate making artists and garment technology talents. "They are also important supports for the pformation and upgrading of the industry."

Li Xinshen understood this.

Absence of originality

"The designer of the running water, the iron making plate maker, one.

Designers may often change, but the brand's senior plate makers are generally very stable.

Li Xin said that the plate making division is the secret weapon of the boss of the enterprise. A good plate making can not only help the designer to put the design idea into practice, but also correct the deficiencies of the design according to the brand style, and ensure the consistency of the brand series products in style.

The design concept belongs to metaphysics. How to put the effect map into practice and become a garment product is the foundation to promote the fashion industry and Guan Jian.

At the beginning of the year, Yamamoto Teruji said that, at the beginning of the Chinese fashion forum, his studio, when recruiting apprentices, no matter how excellent they graduated from a design college, must first work as a 3 year edition of the teacher's assistant.

Yamamoto Teruji believes that a designer is in the process of typing and cutting.

The understanding of fabric texture and fluidity can only be perceived by manual printing.

"Even though there are more and more high-end typing software, it still can not replace manual typing.

I hope that the version I have made can make the stitches of the shoulders and armpits penetrate into a thread, which is also what I pursue in the life of fashion design.

Yamamoto Teruji said.

However, judging from the current talent structure of China's garment industry, there are not many excellent talents in plate making, which is closely related to the concept of talents in the industry and the personnel training mechanism in fashion design institutes.

"Chinese education has always had the tradition of focusing on brain and technology."

Li Xin said that many Chinese clothing colleges and universities in the recruitment of students, generally put the assessment of painting skills in the first place, "many schools will draw the effect of clothing drawing as an important assessment criteria for talents, this is not necessary, nor is it consistent with the current international training and clothing personnel mechanism."

Li Xin has visited Italy, Japan and other clothing professional institutions. She said that the strict assessment of students' painting skills was different from the domestic institutions. The international clothing professional institutions generally only spent 3 months to cultivate students' painting level, and they would put more energy into the training of garment plate making technology.

"In addition to Parsons, there is also a FIT in the famous clothing colleges in the United States. The latter mainly focuses on the training of fashion technology talents."

The lack of ingenuity in the training of talents in the industry has also made the Chinese clothing technical talents, such as plate makers, present uneven development in terms of professionalism and so on. This is evident from the finals of the top ten plate making masters in China.

The quality of edition teachers needs to be improved.

Zhang Wenbin, Professor of costume Academy of Donghua University, has served as the judge of the 3 National Top Ten plate making masters competition. For the quality inspection of the 3 contestants, he said that compared with the previous two sessions, the overall quality of the contestants in this competition has improved significantly.

"This competition has a high degree of completion of the entries. The unfinished rate of the first two entries is generally between 1/4~1/3, and only 1/7~1/6 of this tournament has not been completed."

Zhang Wenbin said.

Although the completion of the work is high, Zhang Wenbin also found some outstanding problems at the competition site.

"As far as our written examination is concerned, many players do not know enough about basic knowledge of clothing, and they have two sides in their professionalism.

Judging from the written examination results, both players scored more than 90 high scores, and some of them only got scores of scores.

From the overall situation, 60% of the contestants failed to pass the written test.

At the same time, we will not see the imbalance in the effect picture and clothing plate making.

"In order to

For example, the effect diagram we have given is very clear, and the competitor can only complete the assessment requirements according to the proportion plate making.

However, we found in the review that many players would not look at the design drawings. When they hit the board, there was a deviation in the understanding of the style, and the proportion of the various parts of the board was totally wrong. The fashion style we gave was made into a tooling. "

Zhang Wenbin said that although the overall quality of China's plate making division has improved, it still needs to be improved.

In this regard, Li Xin said that the gap between the overall quality of the plate making master was mainly caused by the imperfect training mechanism of the plate making personnel.

Taking the theoretical examination as an example, the teachers and students in the professional training institutions that have been trained systematically are relatively good. However, some of our industry's Edition teachers have grown up from the grass-roots practice. They are generally trained by the teacher's apprentice model, emphasizing on practice, lacking theoretical knowledge, and lacking systematic and professional training in understanding the effect diagram.

Li Xin said that some professional training students like North dress and Tsinghua Academy of fine arts have solid theoretical foundation, but in terms of career planning, they are more inclined to engage in relatively bright industries such as design, and have little interest in the position of plate making teachers.

The dislocation and deviation between this concept and the actual development of the industry is also an important problem to be solved in the future industry pformation.