Modern Breakthrough Of Traditional Costumes And Harmony Seeking Harmony

　　 Cai Yufen, a costume designer of Taiwan theatre, is not only dazzling but harmonious.

The costume of Kunqu Opera is the most classic, beautiful and unique feature of the costumes.

The traditional Kunqu costume basically followed the fashion style of the Ming Dynasty, and absorbed the characteristics of the Qing Dynasty clothing and the flag.

It does not emphasize gorgeous, and emphasizes "elegance" and "Rhyme". Costume The birth is a hard work of art.

A new Kunqu Opera "Liang Shanbo and Zhu Yingtai" by Taiwan Guoguang opera company has pushed the costumes art of Kunqu opera to its peak.

In the whole drama, there are more than 30 sets of handmade Kunqu costumes, which are called works of art. Among them, there are 17 sets of two costumes of Liang Shan Bo and Zhu Yingtai. From Kunqu opera only Clothes & Accessories Art is a feast for the eyes.

All of them came from Taiwan full-time theater costumes. Designer Cai Yufen, founder of DRAMAYA theatre design studio.

In order to explore the design concept and the story behind the new Kunqu Opera "Liang Zhu" costumes, Xiaoguang, a proud collector, visited the Guoguang Opera Troupe in Taipei, and took a limited time to interview Cai Yufen, who was still busy in the background.

Ten years ago, in conjunction with the traditional Kunqu Opera, the design of costumes was based on traditional lines. Now, Kunqu opera has been revised online, and has entered the stage of the National Grand Theater. The new interpretation needs the new elements of the Kunqu costume. CAI has chosen to express it with "freehand brushwork".

Cai said that "freehand" expression is more tension than traditional expression. {page_break}

Everything that will appear on the stage is brewing 3 or 4 years ago. The gradual decline of traditional handicrafts not only did not affect the beauty of costumes, but under the guidance of CAI's courage, it turned out to be a traditional attempt to get rid of the tradition, and got the approval of the directors and screenwriters who dared to innovate.

Traditional costumes usually express their artistic conception in a realistic way. Often, there are totem elements in the costumes, such as butterflies and peonies.

The new Kunqu costumes, themes from the corresponding scenes of the situation, the expression is also enriched. They print the bottom. Embroidery Dotting the eyes, the level of diversity, the background of virtual reality, give people ink and wash the natural feelings of Qingxin.

Yingtai's yearning for Shan Bo turned into fallen and snow. Yingtai's costumes are in the background of dark color printing, with slightly sad fallen flowers floating on the skirt and lining with the snowy white spots on the Shan Shan's clothes, creating a cold and scent atmosphere.

Eighteen send together, symbolizing the twisting and romantic Wisteria flower incarnate in spring and love, wrapped around the face of the skirt, just like the Yingtai and the Shan Bo in the play, how reluctant and unwilling to give away.

In all scenes, costumes are hand embroidered. printing Matching, embroidery accounted for about 50%-70%, greatly breaking through the traditional restrictions, layout more boldly, impressionistic and full of exquisite.

Integrating into the costumes of Kunqu Opera, Mr. Cai said he hoped they would have no trace in the performance of the Kunqu Opera butterfly lovers. She said that in every play, a designer is not thinking about how to make his design come out, but considering what color the audience should be giving to the audience.

In scenarios, scenes are different and colors are different. The scene of missing is a mixture of purple and ice and snow. The feeling of spring needs the color of spring, and the great happiness is the contrast of the wedding ceremony with the big red. From Liang Shanbo to Zhu Yingtai, from the beginning of the play to the end of the play. clothing The 17 set shows the fineness of the design.

No matter how many skills and creative techniques are coagulated in clothing, its fundamental purpose is to serve the plot. Therefore, both color and techniques are based on plot, not dazzling and harmonious.

Cai's understanding of the Kunqu Opera butterfly lovers is sprinkled on every costumes with various beautiful elements. Whether it's innovation or tradition, what she focuses most is not technique, but the audience's experience in appreciation.