What Is China's Luxury Brand Outside The Wall?
In 2015, with the further maturation and development of consumers, though global
Luxury goods
The market is still facing many pressures, but the total capacity of the market will still reach a record $255 billion 200 million, and the annual growth rate is expected to reach 11%.
Compared with 2014, there was a marked recovery and development.
Its growth power mainly comes from the traditional high-end niche brands and designer brands, especially the rapid development of customized products and services.
Recently, French luxury group LVMH announced that it might close some Louis Vuitton (LV) stores in second tier cities in China.
Subsequently, LV closed its three stores in Guangzhou, Harbin and Urumqi.
Although the store is not new in the luxury industry, LV's one-time closure of 3 stores has aroused heated debate in the industry.
It is reported that Shenyang, Chengdu and other places will also usher in LV customs shop tide, retain a store at most (except Beijing Shanghai Hangzhou).
Many people have been sighing for the once luxurious brand of luxury that is now in the cold winter.
Ma Yun [micro-blog], chairman of Alibaba's board of directors, said in an interview with Forbes not long ago that it was absurd to sell such a high price [Gucci micro-blog] (Gucci[micro-blog), or even thought that luxury should change its way of operation.
This has also led to people's thinking about the luxury industry.
"I don't think that expensive things are luxury goods. They can be called luxury goods with cultural connotations and heritage."
Kong Lingjun, founder of Kong's watch, said in an interview with the international finance daily.
As the world's largest exporter of textiles and the largest consumer of luxury goods, it is expected that China will be able to generate its own luxury brand.
Regional culture is deeply rooted in the hearts of the people.
Many years ago, Gucci President Minico Diso said proudly: "in many people's minds, luxury brands are always linked to Europe, and luxury brands from Asia are really hard to imagine."
"This view represents the views of many top European luxury Brand Company."
Georges Kern, chief executive of Mingshi and grand brand, said that only the most beautiful shoes can be found in Italy. Only the most romantic perfume can be found in France, and the best watches can be found in Switzerland. This has almost become the "standard answer" in the minds of consumers worldwide.
It can be seen that the regional culture of luxury goods has penetrated into the bone marrow of consumers.
What about China?
brand marketing
Expert Xu Xiongjun once said that China has no luxury culture, and if so, it is also concentrated in the field of tobacco and alcohol.
Now, all this seems to be slowly changing.
"In fact, there are many good things in China. Every industry has top-notch enterprises, which are the foundry of foreign brands, and technology can basically be balanced with foreign countries."
Kong Lingjun told the International Financial Daily reporter.
His hole watch was founded in 2007.
Speaking of the original intention of establishing the brand, Kong Lingjun said that he wanted to be a luxury brand belonging to China, making it the world card of China.
"Why China has taken a place in the world, but it has not yet belonged to its top watch brand?" is the idea that prompted Kong Lingjun to visit several Swiss watch factories, and witnessed the meticulous tabulation in the factory and the dedicated work attitude of the watchmaker.
Since then, he has visited France, Germany, Japan and other clocks and watches brands, and finally found that Chinese brands can be established in the world if they are willing to take the foreign brands' attention and precise attitude to make brands and create products with cultural connotations.
It is learnt that Kong's watch focuses on the design and production of enamel meters.
The choice of enamel table, Kong Lingjun said, on the one hand is because of complex technology, tabulation difficulty is very high, its high value is widely recognized in the clock industry; on the other hand, ancient Chinese enamel has had a glorious period.
Therefore, as a descendant, we should rejuvenate the past glory and inherit the enamel craft which represents the ancient art.
Moreover, the traditional culture elements can be complemented by the characteristics of enamel, which are enduring and new, mysterious and noble.
According to the relevant data, enamel ware has two main types: one is from the Persian copper pinch enamel, which reached a peak in Jingtai. Later it was called "Cloisonne". The other was the painting enamel technology from Europe, which was introduced into China in the Qing Dynasty, Kangxi.
At present, there are porcelain and silver placenta on the placenta enamel and enamel in the Kong's Enamel table.
"Ceramics were invented by our Chinese, so we made many porcelain enamel sheets.
From the source of product pattern creation, it can be divided into animals, plants, landscapes, dragons and Phoenix, personages and so on.
The animal series, such as panda Cui Zhu, is to commemorate the giant panda of China's national treasure. It has Chinese characteristics.
Plants such as "butterfly flower", "blossom and riches", "bright future" are all Chinese folk New Year pictures and customs slang. The characters are legendary historical legends of Guan Gong and Chang'e.
It can be said that it is precisely because of the extensive and profound Chinese traditional culture that we have endless creative materials. "
Kong Lingjun said.
receive recognition only from outsiders
As Kong Lingjun said, Chinese culture is extensive and profound. It is not difficult to build a luxury brand with cultural heritage.
Take clothing as an example.
In the 30s and 40s of last century, a embroidered hand made cheongsam was the standard of a wealthy family.
With Wong Kar Wai's "show of love", cheongsam renewed its popularity and became popular all over the world.
Even famous designer Pierre Cardin admits that a large part of his evening dress design is inspired by Chinese cheongsam.
Along with the Oriental customs sweeping the globe, including the top and bottom, France blue porcelain, Zhao Yi jewelry, Kirin, Shanghai and some other Chinese luxury brands, they began to emerge in the world.
Unlike the luxury brands created by Chinese and American designers such as Wang Weiwei and Anna Sui, the top and bottom are all designed by Chinese designers and are labeled "made in China".
Shanghai is the work of Hongkong designers. At present, there are 39 stores in New York, Tokyo, Paris, Madrid and London.
Politicians Hilary, Thatcher, movie stars Anngelina Jolie and Nicholas Cage all wore Chinese clothes in Shanghai.
The price of the traditional cheongsam is nearly ten thousand yuan, while most of the traditional cheongsam is priced at around 7000 yuan. It is also known as France blue porcelain, which is the most famous porcelain brand in the world and sold in 56 countries worldwide.
Harvard School of management also introduced France blue porcelain as a textbook for Chinese luxury brand business cases.
"Although these luxury brands with pure Chinese blood have developed well, they will still encounter one problem, consumer bias."
An international luxury brand told the international finance daily, "the DNA of the international brand is still much better than that of the Chinese local brands. Maybe this is a bit extreme, but the reality is still cruel."
"You will spend tens of thousands of yuan to buy a Chinese brand.
Suit
Or a Chinese brand bag? "The reporter asked many girlfriends around her, and the answer was" no ".
This is not surprising.
Some local luxury brands have encountered the embarrassment of "incense outside the wall". They are very popular in foreign countries, but are hardly known in China. They are more difficult to be recognized and bought by most Chinese consumers, such as LV and Chanel.
According to a survey conducted by global luxury magazine, 86% of Chinese consumers said they would not buy luxury goods marked "made in China".
"Chinese do not rely on" made in China ".
I have to admit that because many products in China are not excellent enough, the Chinese have a certain attitude of worshipping foreign affairs and foreigners.
The luxury brands said.
In this regard, Kong Lingjun said that many of the top overseas brands are now subcontracted by Chinese factories, so the technology level made in China is not bad.
Chinese consumers do not quite approve of China's luxury brands, mainly for psychological reasons.
"But this has changed significantly over the past two years.
Many of my entrepreneur friends have been proud to wear Patek Philippe or other world-class brand watches. But gradually, with the accumulation of wealth and the maturity of their consciousness, they began to prefer low-key brands.
Just like many people like to wear cloth shoes nowadays, they begin to like to wear brands that can't be seen by others.
Kong Lingjun told reporters that the consciousness of entrepreneurs is slowly rising. "Apart from not showing people's identity, many entrepreneurs are willing to spend money on national brands because of their sense of social responsibility and have a patriotic feeling."
In Kong Lingjun's view, Chinese consumers now know more and more what is good.
"Many customers in Kong are buying fifth people and sixth watches.
Take enamel as an example. Yuan, song, Ming and Qing Dynasties emperors all like enamel.
Nowadays, there are many collectors of Royal crafts in China.
Consumers are increasingly advocating customization, unique, do not like mechanized mass production, because they lack the value of collection.
Some of the watches on the market are at a premium.
Michel Guzez, a luxury brand management expert and director of the MBA program at Marseille business school, explains that savor a luxury is an experience of life and a feeling of Michel culture.
GuZi believes that young Chinese luxury brands are lucky, though they may not have the deep background of international luxury giants, but they are not backward from a cultural perspective.
Looking around the newly emerging luxury brands in China, all of them contain the unique Chinese traditional culture genes -- extending the influence of Chinese culture from product design to making full use of Chinese raw materials such as craftsmen and precious red sandalwood. The Chinese elements of the Kirin jewelry are highlighted; the porcelain of the French Blue Porcelain and the jadeite jade pushed by the jewellery of the Zhao Yi are themselves invented in China, and the firing process is also handed down in China for a thousand years. Shanghai's Qipao and Chinese clothing have become the symbol of Chinese clothing (24.60, -1.39, -5.35%).
Of course, sales strategy is also a key battle for brand reputation.
The sale of France blue porcelain is relatively successful in China.
Chen Liheng, its president, believes that even luxury brands that sell to Chinese consumers should learn to tell Chinese traditional stories in a way that Westerners are used to.
"For example, the Alice teapot of the blue porcelain is far from the Chinese wind, but when you play it with your hands, you can see that the color matching, patterns and patterns are in line with Disney's element and spirit. There is also a porcelain called" Fuhai Tengda ". When you hear the name, you know that the pattern design is very Chinese, but the producer chose three top ceramic factories in France, which are produced by Westernization technology. Among them, Bai Tu is in charge of Baiyu porcelain, Kunting is responsible for silverware knives and forks, and Barack is the crystal cup. This kind of porcelain gives people a completely different sense of vision.
Quality is the core of brand.
"Discount", "price reduction" and "closing stores" are the most turbulent year in China's luxury industry. The global luxury market is facing a lot of pressure. But according to the November 24th China luxury report released by the wealth Research Institute in November 24th, the global luxury market volume will still reach a record $255 billion 200 million this year. Among them, the global luxury consumption of Chinese consumers is up to 740 billion yuan, an increase of 100 billion yuan compared with 2014.
The report also shows that in 2015, the consumption of luxury goods by Chinese consumers amounted to 91 billion US dollars, that is, 78% of luxury consumption occurred overseas, and the situation of consumption outflow was still serious.
It can be seen that the powerful influence of international brands still exists.
It is worth mentioning that the Institute of wealth quality found that the difference in luxury prices between domestic and overseas has significantly narrowed from the previous average price difference of 50% to 20%-30% in 2015 compared with 2011.
This has a significant relationship with the policies released by the Chinese government in recent years to further reduce import tariffs.
Zhou Ting, President of the Institute of wealth and quality, believes that in 2016, the Chinese government will further increase the adjustment of import tariffs, and use various policy measures to restrict overseas shopping so as to promote the growth of China's local consumption. China will be the cheapest land buyer in the world.
According to statistics of the Institute of wealth and quality, in 2015, 83% of luxury brands had various forms of customs clearance in China. In the past few years, Prada has closed 16 stores in China, Chanel (micro-blog) (Chanel) has closed 11 stores, and Burberry[micro-blog has closed 3 stores.
"Closing shop tide" will not be terminated in the short term.
Zhou Ting believes that luxury stores will become more popular in 2016, and more than 95% of luxury brands are expected to choose to close some stores strategically and establish large experience and service centers instead of existing ones.
In addition, although China's luxury electric business in 2015 ushered in a rapid development, favored by capital, but the Institute of wealth quality believes that China's luxury electric business is far from being as good as expected.
According to the survey, 96% of China's high asset groups do not recognize China's luxury e-commerce websites and App.
No matter how big the international brand or the market is, the quality of the product is always the core of the brand in Kong Lingjun's view.
"Enamel table yield is very low, only 30%.
It takes two months to make a watch, and most likely it is a defective product.
It takes 3 years to cultivate a master.
Even so, we are not anxious to increase production. We want to calm down our minds to convey Oriental wisdom products and ingenuity to consumers, and to go abroad to show China's Enamel art.
"When exhibiting abroad, many foreign buyers said it was hard to imagine that Chinese watches could do that. I felt proud every time.
China is very large, and every industry has some very good brands. It is slowly becoming familiar with people, believing that the luxury market in China will become better and better. This spring has always been there.
Kong Lingjun said.
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