Fashion Is Predicted To Die.
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It is often predicted that it will go to death.
This is a view that has been put forward since 70s, which is very incitement and continues to have news value: we are told that fashion is collapsing; fashion is breaking; fashion needs to be changed; fashion is over.
Moreover, this view has been continuously fermented in recent years.
The reason for the fall of the traditional fashion system has been found. In fact, the emergence of high fashion fashion is the fashion system based on the concept of seasonal pformation. It has been declining after 1.5 centuries, from the smallest to the present.
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The appearance of the argument has been proved to be influenced by uselessness, which has nothing to do with fashion, but is a product of split in specific historical conditions.
Recently, the early autumn and early spring series, which contributes 2/3 of the total sales of the brand every year, seems to have affected the traditional fashion show two times a year.
Let's take a look at the fast fashion brand's aggressive fashion invasion, fast fashion brand.
Zara
In 2014, its revenue exceeded 13 billion 200 million pounds.
H&M
It's 13 billion 500 million pounds, which is relative to the luxury brand.
Louis Vuitton
It's 6 billion 700 million pounds.
In any case, from the perspective of earning wealth, there is something wrong with today's fashion industry.
Let's take stock of the fashion industry in the past five years due to designers leaving, collapsing and suicide.
Lee Alexander McQueen2010 left the world in February and John Galliano in 2011 left Dior has been a great concern, but followed by a series of industrial earthquakes, including Louis Vuitton, Jil Sander, Rochas and Jil, etc. this year, the candidates for the creative director have changed.
The renewal of fashion rulers is nothing new, but the speed of turnover has indeed reached an alarming level.
Prior to that, Dior's art director Raf Simons and Lanvin's creative director Alber Elbaz were suddenly listed as one of the biggest fashion events of the year in October, more contemptuously about the speed of the industry's alternation.
Last October, Raf Simons talked about the strong demand of Christian Dior for the huge machinery, and how he hired two creative teams to take charge of the three series of six series of products to be displayed by the brand, although there are still some products that are not included, and shuttle between two teams to find a certain amount of inspiration.
It can be seen that every designer seems unavoidably to encounter such a barrier of creation and fatigue, even though most of the media believe that their departure is due to personal reasons or disagreements with the company.
The contradiction between business machines and creative talents is constantly emerging. Can fashion industry continue to develop healthfully? This is indeed a big question mark.
Alber Elbaz completed his own Lanvin curtain call. A week later, he interviewed the media and photographed the tape recorder. He said helplessly, "we don't listen. We record."
He then lamented the current pace of fashion and people's dependence on digital technology.
Last November 4th, Alber Elbaz even said, "will we become an entertainment industry?"
It is foolish to condemn an industry's commitment to change from taste aesthetics to actual degradation.
However, the dismissal in the past twelve months can also highlight the essence of fashion.
That is, fast fashion is no longer just a profitable model, it also affects the attitude of all sectors of the fashion industry.
Therefore, the fashion week in New York will challenge a fashion system with the all-weather and uninterrupted display of "buy and wear" labels.
Thakoon is reorganizing its business. It was acquired by fashion tycoon Cao Qifeng family in December last year. Rebecca Minkoff will display its 2016 spring and summer series in February, which usually displays autumn and winter series, so that her customers can buy it immediately.
Burbeery and Moschino also made changes in order to enable customers to buy the clothes displayed at T immediately.
Jean Monnier, head of MonnierFreres, a luxury retailer, said Moschino75%'s products and main accessories will be available for sale immediately after the launch.
Diane von Furstenberg, chairman of the American Fashion Designers Association, has expressed her views on the prevailing seasonal design arrangement: "something is wrong.
Everything needs to be restarted. "
Rebecca Minkoff was the latest designer who questioned the value of fashion show. She thought that the fashion show would not be available until 4 to 6 months later, when consumers had lost interest in the style because they had already seen too many stars and social media, and they would not buy them again.
But in the face of such a huge change, can the speed of clothing supply really make them better or more desirable? Is the fashion industry so obsessed with speed at the moment a part of the problem rather than a solution? Louis Weedon mentioned at the same time that Inditex, such as H&M and Zara, Pull&Bear, MassimoDutti, Bershka and a series of high street brand retailers, is also a relatively new topic.
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Indeed, the former will face challenges from the latter.
Some retailers now cut their series to increase sales and avoid more products being copied by high street brands.
Bruno Pavlovsky, chairman of fashion department at Chanel, said: "for us, this is the six series in a year.
Every two months is a new series for us. "
Referring to their customers, Dior's CEO SidneyToledano adds, "they've been looking forward to something new."
However, paradoxically, Louis Weedon's CEO Michael Burke revealed a completely different view when interviewed by the media on the Palm Springs cliff in the LV 2016 holiday Series in May this year: unless you are a fashion designer, updating the fashion brand in three months or six months is very tiring and difficult for the company to follow.
Without doubt, it is certain that the whole industry is baffled, including designers and their fashion reporters.
When the brand advocates extravagance, peeling themselves out of fashion, trying to create eternity but unpredictable to satisfy all consumers' needs for new things, all the great urge is fission.
But fashion is first and foremost a business, and the coupling of trade and innovation is a crucial factor.
At present, this balance is broken, which is the fundamental problem of today's fashion industry.
Designers are no longer regarded as human beings, but rather a machine for making clothes, ideas and quotations, and this machine must be easy to open and close.
Raf Simons describes a contributing factor for her departure from Dior as a ruthless step, but others think it lacks overall control.
His terms of reference are confined to women's clothing without worrying about store design, advertising, and the huge beauty business.
Alber Elbaz is reported to have clashed with Wang Xiaolan, the boss of Lanvin.
After his dismissal, he issued a sharp personal statement, expressing the hope that Lanvin will "discover its vision of the enterprise".
According to AlberElbaz friends, earlier, Alber Elbaz had been increasingly unhappy with management decisions.
I wonder if 2015 will become a disaster year in contemporary fashion history, or just a precursor to a series of events.
Although some mistakes have been made in high fashion today, there has been a lot of bubbles on the bright surface, but in the last ten years, they will be broken sooner or later.
Designers are no longer happy, retailers are restless, and they can't trust the clothes they buy. The international market turmoil, and the fluctuation of brand profits and losses are also worrying.
What are the remedies? I don't know.
But it is certain that we do not need to produce more clothes for the saturated market. Accelerating the pace of fashion renewal is not necessarily a solution, though it can be regarded as a new concept to combat "consumption fatigue".
But what about the weariness of designers, or the clothes, the images, magazines, and all the fashions fatigue that appear in the shops? Or perhaps all of us, including designers, customers, journalists, may be tired of being stuffed with so many things at a time. It may be like a handbag that is rough but sold empty. Before this crumble industry collapses, we need a little breathing space.
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