What Impact Will The "Fashion Show After The Show" Bring To The Fashion Circle In The Conflict?
Latest fashion
Zhou Yongyuan is a place where brain holes are scattered. However, this time, the opening of the brain hole is not limited to the design itself. The international leaders who are leading the fashion trend begin to find new breakthroughs from the docking mode between the showroom and the shopping mall.
At the beginning of the year, designer Tom Ford announced the cancellation of the autumn winter clothing series, which was scheduled to be held in New York fashion week in February 18th, and will be released from September to September.
At that time, the brand fashion show will be launched on the same day online and offline stores.
Burberry, who has always dared to play, immediately announced the response, and Mulberry, Michael Kors and Tommy Hilfiger joined the pformation team that was sold after the show.
Thierry Andretta, chief executive of Mulberry, said that the move would reduce the production of cheap and high street plagiarism, and shorten the time between the fashion show and the official launch of the clothing, so that retailers could sell the original design at full price and let consumers get new products faster.
Obviously, not everyone thinks so.
As a collection, the world is numerous.
Luxury goods
The French fashion circle has sniffed at this practice.
Luxury brands such as Dior, Chanel, Saint Laurent and Hermes are openly opposed to the practice. They believe that customers need to wait to increase their expectations of the product.
Market downturn, let a lot of
fashion
The brand began to break the original mode, reshape the industrial ecology, and change the battle with adhering to it, so that the clothing circle began to wake up and examine the original development mode.
In this regard, the "show after sale" will give the conflict in the fashion circle what kind of impact?
The disgrace of discount
For the pformation of "show after sale" in fashion circles, MoMo Lee, a new designer who has independently designed the brand from New York to China, is optimistic.
"The plagiarism situation in the clothing circle is too serious now, and the post sale mode can effectively evade the situation."
MoMo told reporters that as long as a cloth for domestic fabric enterprises can be made, these enterprises can make highly similar products in a short time, even on the number of fabrics.
But if the brand can be sold after the show, this plagiarism situation can obviously be greatly improved.
More importantly, the shortening of the time difference between the show and the shopping mall will make a positive change in the sales mode of the clothing industry.
"According to the traditional mode of operation of clothing industry, it takes about 6 months for the fashion clothes to be converted into clothing products sold by shops.
And when the new products are on sale, many customers who like the brand will not choose to buy it at the first time, because even the clothing of the season has only 2 months to wear, so it is better to buy it at a discount of more than a month in the evening.
MoMo told reporters that taking New York market as an example, every December is the discount season for major brands. Many people will choose to buy expensive luxury brands that were originally priced at this time.
In this regard, if it can be bought after the show, in addition to allowing customers to taste the first time, it can also effectively extend the consumer's brand clothing cycle.
Shortening the listing cycle will surely enable some customers to pay for the design at the original price, and also push the design to achieve more benign commercial value conversion.
Innovation after sale is worth affirming, but in MoMo's view, the risk of this model is not acceptable to all independent designers.
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"Many fashion shows are not launched at the very first time. In addition to the production cycle, there is another reason for the brand to be combined with the commercial needs for the two design of the work so that it can be more suitable for commercial sales and reduce the business risk of the enterprise."
MoMo said that once the time between the show and the shopping arcade is shortened, designers are required to have absolute confidence in their works. Otherwise, such losses and risks are likely to be unbearable for some designer brands.
"In my view, a more reliable way of operation is to design a proportion of spot and pre-sale products based on their own control over the product, reducing risk at the same time."
Death is invariable.
"What is there to be done now without risk? No risk taking, how can brand develop?" for the show after buying, it outlines the general supervision of the design and holds absolute support. In his view, in the rapidly changing Internet era, the traditional clothing mode should have changed.
The clothing industry needs to graft new technical means to seek breakthroughs.
"I don't think it's the most advanced mode to sell after the show. I want to do the live broadcast + sales mode. By watching the show with the video website, the audience can directly buy online while watching the show."
He said that, to achieve this model, it does not require the brand to be ready in advance.
"As an example, the production cycle of our clothing will not be too long, and it can be completed in two weeks."
Once the idea is realized, Li believes that not only can it bring new vitality to the garment industry, it can also help the whole industry chain to achieve self-help pformation.
Li Zhen said: "nowadays, not only are garment enterprises not having a good time, but there are no orders for fabric enterprises. Therefore, if all links of the industrial chain are closely linked through risk sharing, it will bring new vitality to the industry."
Runaway speed
Independent designer Zheng Tong is not convinced of the current speed of the garment industry.
In his opinion, simply catering to speed will only make design lose in business.
"I have a student who chooses to start his own business after graduation.
He was very original at the beginning and wanted to be an original designer brand. But after running for a while in Taobao, he found that the demand for speed on the online platform made it difficult for him to stick to the principle of original design.
Later, in addition to regularly pushing a small number of original design styles, he spent most of his time in Guangzhou white horse market.
Zheng Tong told reporters that many times, design and business are contradictory.
And the student who didn't stick to the ideal of design was highly valued in the electricity business.
Insisting on original design or pursuing commercial value is just a matter of choice for Zheng Tong.
But if the designer brand is to adapt to the pace and pace of the commercialized brand, it is easy to lose the tonality of original design.
"I think these designer brands are not confident enough. After all, the consumption of high-end designer brands and customers who buy fast fashion brands are two kinds of people themselves.
Designer brand sales should be the tonality, connotation, culture and quality of the brand, rather than just a simple price.
Zheng Tong believes that high-end designer brands should not be led by fast fashion.
At the same time, the time difference between retaining the show and shopping malls is also necessary for Zheng Tong.
"The fashion show is different from the final product. This redesign, high quality fabric and processing technology will take time to complete."
Zheng Tong said that blindly pursuing speed will surely hurt quality.
"Good things are worth waiting for."
Zheng Tong said.
Business pformation
Fully pursuing the design concept, Zhang Shangnan, general manager of the Chinese men's wear design and trading center, who has been working on the designer's platform, does not seem to be realistic. However, if the fashion circle that is in the bottleneck of development is stuck with the original promotion mode, it is obviously not suitable for the development needs of the current industry.
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"I find it very difficult to decide whether to sell the products after the show. Is it suitable for the brand or depends on its own operation?
But the introduction of this model reflects the lack of commercialization of fashion week from a certain level.
Zhang Shangnan told reporters that taking the show in some fashion week in China as an example, the cost of the designer is basically hundreds of thousands of yuan, but the commercial benefits that will eventually be produced are negligible. Many designers only get some honorary titles.
But it is clear that this detached business mode has become more and more difficult for designers to buy.
Mao Lihui, a Chinese Fashion Critic, is very impressed by this.
He said: "now many fashion week is too empty, the brand spent about 1000000 yuan on the show, and finally, how many target audiences have placed orders, and how much business pformation rate can be achieved. For these hard targets, few fashion week seriously assess."
Mao Lihui believes that the lack of fashion week and commercial docking has even made the top stage of Paris fashion week continue to be criticized.
In this regard, after the show, buying first lets the brand achieve the most direct pformation between the show and the business.
From this perspective, this may not be a useful attempt in fashion circles.
Spicy comment: sale after the show is a great adventure to crush the illusion of luxury.
Every year in February and September, fashion lovers all over the world will be bodied, because this is the four day of fashion week.
These new series of clothing will normally enter brand stores and online sales in 4~6 months, when consumers will be able to get their favorite products into their pocket.
Over the years, luxury brands have created a desire and illusion for consumers in this way of waiting.
However, not long ago, this traditional way was broken, and many brands launched new strategies after the show.
As the name suggests, "after the show is sold" is the fashion show, the brand immediately released fashion sales, this is a new way to eliminate the time difference between T and retail.
The Tom Ford, the first to break the deal, cancelled the brand's fashion issue which was originally scheduled for fashion week February 18th in New York. It will be released to September. It also said that the brand will also sell new products online and at the physical store on the day of the exhibition.
Then the British brand Burberry also responded by announcing that the brand will be released from September on the integration of men's and women's clothing series.
After the show, the entire series will be sold online and in store immediately.
After that, a series of brands such as Tommy Hilfiger joined the reform camp.
As Tom Ford said, the world is becoming more and more instant. Now the way to show the new series to customers in 4 months is outdated and unreasonable.
This marketing strategy caters to the current consumption demand, especially with the tastes of young consumers.
The bold changes of these brands are called "great changes in fashion system" by some people in the industry.
This is a new way of dialogue with the market, said Anouck Duranteau-Loeper, chief executive of fashion department of Paco Rabanne.
After all, the development of technology has made "waiting" a painful and annoying thing for many people.
Michael Kors is well versed in this consumption psychology.
In February 17th, Michael Kors had a capsule series in the 2016 autumn and winter fashion show.
All the products of the series are listed and sold on the online store and brand store in Madison Avenue, New York after the show.
But whether these brands try to achieve the desired results can not be reached yet.
To be sure, the new approach is a great challenge to the overall operation of the brand.
Which products can be more popular with consumers? How much is the production of new products? Will it lead to more inventory? Therefore, the "show after sale" is like a big adventure.
But which brand is not going forward in the face of challenge and adventure? In this sense, their spirit of being the best in the world is worthy of our admiration.
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