Fashion Designer Marco: Clothing Carrying Road (Two)

I have no other way to go.

In the northeastern part of the country, in the countryside about 6 hours' train ride from Changchun, Marco's tribute and attachment to farming life all come from this. Every summer and winter vacation, mom will take her to grandma's house, gather mushrooms and hazelnuts on the mountain, gather the rice, gather sweet potatoes, milk the sheep, and watch the cows born in.

Hard work in the countryside made Marco feel "very happy".

Mother in memory

The figure before sewing for Marco and her two sisters also determined her professional choice in the college entrance examination.

"To tell the truth, I don't think my mother's clothes look good.

"30 years later, Ma said frankly that those clothes did not fit, and that they were much larger than her actual size for wearing longer.

Marco went to Suzhou Silk Institute of Technology (now renamed Soochow University).

In the late 80s, China's 75 plan will be

As one of the key industries in the industry, fashion industry and garment manufacturing industry have been pushed to a strategic level, and colleges and universities have established relevant specialties.

In 1989, the Suzhou Silk Institute of technology set up the first national costume design and performing specialty, but the curriculum was more focused on fashion shows, and there were very few classes in the design course.

Marco is not interested in being a model. "People are so uncomfortable with your figure and looks."

A few years later, as the most successful graduate of the University returned to her alma mater, Marco once pointed to a classroom telling her university teacher that she was sitting here, reading all the design materials of the library, and then writing her own notes, thinking for herself, learning hard.

On the day of graduating from college, mark went out of the school for the last time. He looked up at the school board and asked himself, "do you know what design is?" the answer in my heart is loud: I don't know! Then I turned around and said goodbye to my college days.

"

Like most fashion designers in the early 90s, mark went to a clothing company in Guangzhou to do a little bit of small design and help all departments.

In the following year, he was urged by his brand dream. Ma could find another clothing company intending to create an original brand. The general manager promised to set up a new brand soon, but in order to raise funds for creating the brand, the company had to make some uniform design first, and Marco accepted it.

In the Pearl River Delta in 90s, the factory line was buzzing for 24 hours. A large number of orders from the West and strong domestic demand pulled tens of thousands of private garment factories. The design of the uniform made by Marco was well received by customers, and the company's performance was rising.

A year later, Marco asked the boss when he could start playing cards. He asked, "don't you think it's good to do that now?" "I'm going to explode because I feel like I've been cheated."

When she resigned on the spot, she was so angry that she didn't even get paid for the month.

An industry that lacks copyright protection needs more and more copies of the outside version, rather than a designer like Marco.

In 1994, an old Hongkong company provided a design position for Marco, and the company was planning to pform its brand into a foreign brand OEM.

Marco took part in the second "brother Cup" International Youth costume designer competition sponsored by Japanese enterprises. She found inspiration from a group of photos of Terracotta Army that he stumbled through in the library. In the next two months, she finished the terracotta warriors in the countryside of Hunan, and the future design style seems to have begun.

The materials for making the terracotta warriors include: sewing ramie linen for mosquito nets, making wax waxes for shoes and local brown leaves.

When the terracotta warriors were sent to Beijing, Marco prayed that they should never be the worst.

Unexpectedly, she won the gold medal. The judges from Italy held her tightly and said, "I love you so much."

"The Terracotta Warriors" brought Marco's first chance to go abroad in life. The judges of Italy are willing to provide all support for Marco to go to Italy for further development. Mark thanks her kindness and told her "I will not leave China".

Mao Jihong, Marco's first husband, was also an exceptional partner. She tried to summarize the sensitivity of Marco to the material.

In his memory, he clearly kept the picture that he could make clothes all night. "Sometimes it was bitter to tell her that she had shed tears.

"

The "brothers Cup" Gold Award gave Marco a great encouragement. "It convinced me that I chose the design profession at least not wrong, and I could go on this road.

In the spring of 1995, Hongkong's own brand started. As design director, Marco designed more than 100 sets of clothes, and held the first conference in her design career in Beijing. Later, he selected some of them to participate in the first ten best designers in China and became the youngest winners.

That year, when she was just 24 years old, everything was moving in a better direction. She was ambitious. "Just wait for the company's orders, and then push the brand to the market."

However, shortly after he returned from Beijing, Marco heard that the company had laid off nearly a thousand people.

It was in 1995, the United States imposed trade sanctions against China, and Chinese textile exports were severely restricted, and the export quota was not allowed to make the company lose a large number of export orders.

After 3 months of waiting and suffering, the listing of the new brand is far from over. Marco's dream of Chinese original brand is shattered by reality again.

3 years, 3 jobs, "it's a big blow for me. Why is it so hard to be an original Chinese brand?" the arrival of China's consumer society in 90s allowed many garment enterprises to attach importance to designers. However, design is only part of business, and the style of design comes from market terminals, which is far from the concept of mark.

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A boss once gave Marco a 1 million annual salary, "I was very disappointed and wondered why he wanted to talk to me about this.

Because treatment is not my concern. What matters is what we have to do together.

"He didn't say anything, and the boss added chips and a Lincoln car.

Marco turned around and felt like a valued commodity.

During the year, she gave up less than 10 well paid offer, because no enterprise could understand what she wanted.

A low rent apartment top floor in Fangcun, Guangzhou. Unemployed young man can read books, have cats and cook for himself every day.

In the midsummer of 1996, the hot summer was hard. A nap and a half of a wakefulness took place throughout the day. Suddenly, there was a voice in my mind. "Marco, you can't wait any longer. You can only rely on yourself.

She immediately jumped up and called Mao Jihong. "I decided to create a card.

"

In Marco's description, this magical moment seems to contain some kind of luck.

That year, Marco's Gold Award "terracotta warriors" was accidentally burned out because of the fire in the storehouse. The 150 thousand compensation for the other party became the exception of the initial fund, and mark and Mao Jihong borrowed 200 thousand.

The first batch of clothes were sold in a 12 square meter shop under the Guangzhou agriculture and forestry road. "The strange thing to do is that in the first 3 years, our stock was zero. At that time, there were many times in the shop, that is, the customers quarrelled for a fight.

Marco said that even in the 1997 economic crisis, the clothing industry was very depressed, but exceptions, the monthly sales volume of a shop could reach more than ten million.

"I am a passive entrepreneur. The last thing I want to do is to be a boss.

After finishing the story of the exception, Marco herself felt very tired. She sighed gently, "I have no other way to go but to create cards.

"

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What is needed is not the success of a commercial brand.

Mark can regard clothes as the existence of faith and ideal, not just a job. "What I value most is that no matter what design is, it is always serving people."

Mark can criticize designers who are too self expression to make people a model of supporting clothes.

It is said that Marco never uses models, and every design must be in her own body. She needs to feel her clothes fully.

For this reason, her figure keeps unchanged all the year round, so that she can easily enter her middle code design.

Marco has a pair of eyes.

200 fabrics, 1 minutes to distinguish between the difference, pick out the most needed pieces.

Xiao Zhou, a graphic designer of the useless studio, had designed an envelope. Mark could immediately point out that a line spacing is different from others.

Zhou a ruler, a measurement error of about 2 millimeters.

Once the workshop was blackout, the horse made an experiment with the whimsy. In the dark, she touched each of the entire fabric and judged what material it was.

After calling, the accuracy rate is 95%.

"This is probably natural.

Marco said that the material seemed to her to be alive, and the design was to mobilize all the senses to "understand who they are and give them a proper image."

In the fall of 2004, Mark decided to issue the new spring and summer new dress in 2005 in Beijing fashion week. The show was given the strategic significance of upgrading her exceptional brand. The exceptions were 1500 yuan from the average price of 600 yuan and 700 yuan. "I have always been depressed, especially in my mind.

More and more people take care of the taste of the public.

"

The decision was strongly opposed by executives and agents everywhere.

"Reform has not progressively step-by-step.

As a perfectionist, mark can insist on this. Her personality is very stubborn.

Two days from the fashion show, mark flew from Guangzhou to Beijing.

On the 45 day before, she moved the blanket to the sofa of the office, worked for nearly 20 hours every day, and completed more than 100 sets of designs.

A huge factory in Beijing has become an exception to the new show, and the arrival of mark also brings pressure.

At a meeting, Ma could see the space design model of the show, "she did not speak, nor did she comment, but the look was" no ".

A former employee, who declined to be named, told reporters that in private, horses were called "people who overthrew everything at a critical moment".

According to the former employee, the preparations for the show quickly became unmanageable and constantly reversed. He believed that Marco was a respectable designer, but her harsh and critical pursuit and perfect personality often put pressure on her subordinates.

A strong sense of distance, like a totem hanging on the wall.

She accused a senior executive with no mercy. The man was already very tired and resigned immediately after the show.

After the performance, the audience stood up and applauded - an unprecedented success.

Marco was crying in the background, and she held a girl around her.

One man reminded her: drums and drums.

She seemed to have no strength and was still sobbing.

In those years, Marco was extremely tired.

Throughout the year, hundreds of sets of garment designs, more than 100 stores operating pressure, "every day in the office is a trot.

"She suffered from severe cervical spondylosis." how many years do you have to do? 20 days is a circle. That's not the day people live.

Now, recalling the show 10 years ago, Marco said, at that time, she knew that the exception was no longer her future. What she wanted was not the success of a brand in business. "The five things in the heart are intertwined with each other. It is not the language that can be described, sentimentally attached, disappointed, moved, heavy, everything is mixed in it.

"

A few days ago, a friend who had not seen for a long time praised Marco, who had a good temper and laughed.

"I used to love to lecture people.

Marco admitted that the exception was "relatively fierce", and the mood was very bad. From 2004 to 2006, "it's my worst time."

"She feels that business is actually making her tired. She thinks she is under pressure.

She felt that that thing could not express herself completely. She should have to accommodate the market or something.

Mao Jihong thought Marco was "a real anti market person".

According to a former employee, Marco said at a conference that the exception is something that has nothing to do with money.

An investment institution had hoped to get an exception in the stock market. Marco strongly objected. "I am all resolute and do not use it for a second. Tell Mao Jihong, never think about it. If they want to achieve the goal by brand, they are different from us. Why do you want to sell yourself?"