Fashion Designer Marco: Clothing Carrying Road (Three)

Anyway, you start.

Marco feels more and more

The industry is out of tune.

In 2005, she visited New York.

After watching several shows, I felt nauseous and ran to the Central Park lawn for two hours. "Then I realized that I was watching the performance watching vomiting."

The deafening music, the model with the breast and the heavy makeup and the 15 centimeters of the high-heeled shoes, "my heart is very sad, isn't the woman beautiful enough? Why do people spend so much money to create these tortured things?" fashion fills people's emptiness and self, and makes people deeply in narcissism and self pity.

Beyond the ego, the larger world is blind.

"

Hou Ying, a modern dancer, was talking in New York at the time with Marco. The two men walked around the Broadway in circles, tired and sitting on the steps.

Hou Ying recalls that the street lamp was very bright that night, and Marc looked very miserable. She asked helplessly, "what can I do now?"

In 2006, the Paris Fashion Association and the China clothing association established the Sino French Federation to promote Chinese brands to enter Paris.

A year earlier, China joined the WTO, international

The brand officially entered the Chinese market. Overnight, all the large stores were occupied by LV and GUCCI.

"The real wolf is coming.

Mao Jihong said, "made in China" must turn to "create in China".

At this point, Marco left Guangzhou where she had lived for 14 years with her simple luggage. She sent all the nearly 100 pieces of clothing and dozens of shoes she had accumulated before to her friends and relatives, threw away all the cosmetics and perfume, and came to Zhuhai to create "useless design studio".

In the past few days, she had no intention of designing clothes, walking in the most remote mountainous areas of China, looking for almost vanishing handicrafts. "She likes me for no reason, for example, to see embroidered flowers. She can squatting next to other people to see people embroidering and squatting for hours, but then she can learn by herself.

"Yuan Yanghan, who followed Marco for more than 10 years, said.

Didier, former president of the Paris High Fashion Association, recalled that in the summer of 2006, he visited Marco in Zhuhai.

Marco showed him some useless designs, and told him that he chose fashion design because it was the only area that allowed her to feel free.

Didier liked these handmade products and sent an invitation to mark fashion week in Paris.

Mark knows what this invitation means.

She has seen the documentary "City fashion shorthand", which is a famous Japanese designer Yamamoto Teruji. "At that time, director Wenders asked Yamamoto Teruji a question. Now you come to Paris to do the two issue every year. Will you find it very hard? Is it two times a year?"

Then he asked why, why did he have to come? Yamamoto Teruji's answer is, if you do not come, you will not be remembered.

I told the chairman of the Paris Fashion Association that because of my sense of responsibility for Chinese clothing, I would not refuse your invitation, but I can tell you very clearly that I will not continue to publish it here. I can only design with feelings.

Didier kept silent for a while and said, "anyway, let's start.

"

In 2007, Mark's first work, "land", appeared in a hundred years of high school indoor basketball court in Paris. Without T, models were erect like sculptures. Their clothes were heavy and thick, covered with dust and holes. "This is a dress made for heaven."

Marco explains.

"She shows not fashion, but China.

Didier praised the Marco's first show in Paris, which, in the absence of credibility in Chinese fashion, has contributed to its unique innovative image and has broad national significance. Its achievements are equivalent to the first Japanese designers who broke into the fashion week in Paris in 70s (Chuan Jiu Bao Ling, Yamamoto Teruji, Lssey Miyake, KENZO).

The Chinese air field built by Marco is neither fashion nor pure art. Didier described it more like "a love confession". "I think 20 years later, people will talk about it."

"

Almost at the end of the "land" press conference, Marco received an invitation from Haute Couture, Paris's top custom fashion week. Haute Couture, as the top of the world fashion Pyramid, has always been known for its harsh and cumbersome application procedures. At present, only twenty brands in the world are listed on the list of high profile releases.

In July 2008, mark returned to Paris with his new work "luxury poverty", becoming the first Chinese designer to appear in the Paris high list.

The more than 40 dancers slowly entered the Boulevard of the little palace in Paris. At the other end of the arena, the old weaving machine from China issued a strong rhythmic sound, and the spinning woman gently rubbed slowly, twisting out a long cotton thread in her fingertips.

ECO FASHION TALK, the global authoritative magazine, evaluated Marco's bold voice. "Standing on the opposite side of the garment industry in China's cheap labor force, picking up the underdeveloped handicraft, challenges the clothing attributes of modern culture in essence.

"

"We were very troubled at that time to help her apply for the open space.

Zhao Qian recalled to the people that as the executive director of the International Fashion Association of France, her job is to push Chinese brands to the international market.

"She is not a designer. She must put aside the concept. The core of the designer is clothing. But for the artist, clothing is just a carrier. Her mind is the core.

Zhao Qian went to Zhuhai to see Marco in 2007 and asked what "useless" was. Marco wrote the answer on paper. The main idea was that science and technology developed rapidly. Many abandoned objects were the most precious emotional memory of human beings. She wanted to search for the most essential things in human nature by doing these useless works, and the eternal things that people yearn for most.

"

The performance of Paris is undoubtedly successful, but it has stimulated another layer of contradiction of Marco: is it an artist or a promoter of handicraft brand? Is it to choose to be alone or to help the whole world? When a field investigation, Marco once lived in a farmhouse. In order to add new clothes for the children and the husband, the hostess sat in front of the loom until late at night.

"I listened to the monotonous and forceful sound from the next loom in the dark, and I was very moved. This voice has been accompanying people for thousands of years. This voice is the memory of mother's brand in her children's heart, and it is also the emotion that women can't express.

Marco's eyes are red. "So I think these are the most things I can't keep in mind." these are the memories that mark Ma can't last. She finally understands that she can't turn back from this journey.

In 2009, mark resigned from his position as an artistic director and devoted himself to useless business.

"I want to be big. She wants to be small. She wants to be fine.

In an interview with the characters in the interview, Mao Jihong reviewed the conversation of the two men at that time: "when she set up an exception, she asked me why I earned money." when I said that money could buy her freedom, when I asked her to do something useless, I thought it was like when she went to collect the wind, I had to keep the company. Right, I said at least two of us could start to be free.

"

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In the final analysis, this is between you and God.

Aunt Wu is a woman worker from a useless studio in Rongjiang County, Guizhou.

Her needlework is done quickly and well, and in 4 hours she can embroider a beautiful six petal flower.

When she was 12 years old, she studied the needlework, and all her family's clothes were from these skillful hands.

A month ago, she came to Beijing for the first time. As one of the performers of the opening ceremony, she sat next to the spinning wheel, performing "spinning". This was not a performance. It was her daily life, so familiar that all the actors were busy preparing before the performance.

"Miss Ma, very nice person.

Aunt Wu told reporters with a heavy nasal voice that her Mandarin was not very marked. "Miss Ma never bullied people and was very nice to people.

"Before that, there were fellow workers working in plastic factories in Zhejiang. They were scolded and scolded by their boss, and they were sick because of the bad working environment.

4 years ago, mark went to Aunt Wu's hometown to see her embroidery. She asked if she would like to come to Zhuhai. She came. Her little son was about to get married, and his family needed a lot of money.

Aunt Wu took 6 days a week to wrap up her bags and calculate the money according to working hours.

She did not know what Miss Ma was doing. "Do you want to make a skirt?" she asked suspiciously.

Miss Ma's dress is too laborious. It takes 16 months to finish one skirt, and 2 months to finish it.

When she was at home, there were tourists who wanted to buy clothes that she was wearing. She could not bear to sell them.

As she was busy with her work, she speculated that Miss Ma's skirt must be "sold to the official".

"

Then, aunt Wu brought some fellow townsman, "what else do you want to come over?"

There are some people who want to come over. I can't touch their hearts. I dare not let them come.

"She patted her chest, and the people she brought must be able to touch her 60% wishes." is the heart good or not?

"

One Sunday, aunt Wu and her 4 countrymen are doing their own work. They are usually in the dormitory. The city life gives them a strong sense of discomfort.

Monthly wages, if not sent home, the studio's colleagues will help to deposit in the bank, they will not use the bank card.

In the latter half of life, Marco had decided to live among these Guizhou aunts, walking from her office to sewing workshops for less than a minute.

Sometimes, on Sunday, aunts will burn a pot of sour soup fish with the hot chili and spices brought from their hometown. She will sit around eating with everyone, and when she is happy, she also needs to sing two songs.

Now, Mark's character has become even more quiet, and even his criticisms are as gentle as possible.

A few years ago, a friend's visit was useless, bringing a businessman, hoping to invest in Marco, and Marco immediately asked them to leave. "I am the kind of black and white, there is not much middle ground.

"She described her attitude towards money not against capital, but about her subsequent purpose." the spirit of independence is very important. "

All the money is now spent on her personal savings.

"Marco is like a utopia.

Martin Lhopol, a French fashion consultant, believes that Mark's efforts are contrary to the reality of China.

"My French friends often say that China is simply outrageous.

Chinese want to own big cars, they buy everything.

And I told them that China, like starving children, needs to go through this stage.

A country that is in a frenzied consumption, like France yesterday, Martin believes that mark is doing more like a moral project, importing the values that she believes to be positive energy for the country, "will not change China tomorrow, but many people will see it."

"

Anyone can only move forward in a regional route designated by the times.

In Jia Zhangke's "useless", Marco's story was followed by a small tailor's life in the Shanxi county.

For a long time, China has only tailors and designers are imported from the times. As a participant in China's garment industry for nearly 30 years, mark can have been successful enough to become a Yamamoto Teruji superstar in the Chinese design world under the ever rising commercial power.

A man of great talent and success may turn the boat ahead of the trend of the times.

"I don't want to talk about clothes. I think clothes are too narrow.

In response to some regrets, Marco's face was plain. She made a simile. An ophthalmologist pformed herself into a Chinese medicine. Can people regret that he failed to become the top eye specialist? He can treat systemic diseases.

In describing her age, Marco thought that it was neither beautiful nor ugly, just as human nature was mixed.

Many of Marco's friends have received a useless handkerchief, and printed, "even if you give the best to the world, it may never be enough. Anyway, give the world the best you have" - this is what sister Teresa said.

Mark can recite the second sentence: "you see, in the final analysis, this is between you and God, but not between you and others.

"

At this time, the loom began to clang, "many times, I sit here listening to the sound of the weaving machine next to Ah Xiang... My tears will flow out.

"

As the sky deepened, Marco went back to the studio to work overtime. Downstairs workshops and Guizhou aunts were also working.

"Two shoulders. It hurts. It takes a lot of time.

Aunt Wu said she had just embroidered a flower and began to sew a sheet.

Last month, her little grandson was born. Her daughter-in-law was not a little red lady. "Nowadays, girls are too busy with their cellphones to surf the Internet.

Aunt Wu sighed and thought of making clothes for grandson, but he was too busy to work.

"