Saint Laurent: Role Change From The Boss To The Working Emperor

As early as April this year, when Saint Laurent announced its position as creative director, WWD has reported that the designer himself expects to suspend his fashion business from October and devote herself to the work of Saint Laurent.

This is not the first time that fashion designers have closed their own brand names and are committed to serving their employers. Dior Homme creative director Kris Van Assche suspended business in 2015 for more than 10 years with the same name brand because of financial problems, so that it can concentrate on doing well.

The role of creative director.

Today, for small scale

In terms of brand, consumer market downturn and high operating costs are all very challenging problems.

There are quite a few designers in the industry who are two fashion brands. Anthony Vaccarello has also been the creative director of Versus Versace, and has designed two seasons for the latter.

On the one hand, they want to support their own brand by working for big brands to earn a high salary. On the one hand, they are more and more fast in the fashion industry.

Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs have left their former employers to do their best.

2016 autumn and winter series, as the curtain call of Vaccarello's own brand, has been officially sold on the shelves.

At present, there are more than 100 retailers selling their works worldwide, many of which are famous for Bergdorf Goodman, Browns, Selfridges, Colette, Montaigne Market, Net-a-Porter, Mytheresa.com and Luisa via.

Department stores, top buyer shops and important e-commerce platforms.

Vaccarello also expressed gratitude to friends who had worked together in a formal statement: "thank you for every friend who has been supporting since the founding of the brand is that you have made the brand so successful that this adventure has made amazing achievements.

But now, I need to dedicate myself to new projects.

The brand name of Anthony Vaccarello was founded in 2008. In the past eight years, this brand is known for its sharp asymmetrical sexy skirt.

The brand has quickly become one of the most competitive fashion events in Paris women's clothing week.

In 2012, the supermodel Anja Rubik accidentally became the most sexy red carpet dress on MET GALA on the high split white dress. It also helped Anthony Vaccarello go to the fashion industry spotlight in real sense.

On 2013 MET GALA, Anja was again wearing the hot short leather skirt designed by Anthony Vaccarello.

I made a joint appearance.

Since then, Anthony Vaccarello has maintained close cooperation with Anja Rubik, from the opening and closing mode of the fashion show, to the shooting of advertisements, to the attendance of major events, and even to the

In the series, portraits of Anja are printed on clothing.

Anja Rubik wears Anthony Vaccarello to appear in 2012MET GALA red carpet.

Anja Rubik hand in hand Anthony Vaccarello again appeared in 2013MET GALA red carpet

Anja Rubik has almost become the brand model of the Anthony Vaccarello2014 spring and summer women's clothing series: VOGUERUNWAY

Anthony Vaccarello regards Anja as inspiration muse, invites its advertising blockbuster and prints the portrait of Anja.

A series of costumes

The 36 year old Belgian is humble and low-key. In an interview with reporters, Vaccarello showed that designers should not be overexposed.

But now the brand creative director's job function is not simply leading the design, but needs to participate in the formulation of brand strategy from marketing to sales, and they have to be exposed to the media regularly as stars do.

Hedi Slimane is probably one of the few designers who can live in their own world. Of course, Saint Laurent allows him to do so.

Entering Saint Laurent allows Anthony Vaccarello to quickly enter the top.

Ranks.

At the time of its appointment, Francesca Bellettini, President and chief executive officer of Yves Saint Laurent, called it a "master of pure modern aesthetics, perfectly suited to the temperament of the old fashions in Paris".

In terms of design style, like Hedi Slimane, Anthony Vaccarello is also a designer who likes to emphasize rock and roll elements in design. At least from this point of view, after the Vaccarello takes over, the overall design style of the brand can have a relatively natural pition, but it will have a lot of changes with the works of the Hedi era.

In June of this year, the first group of images of Saint Laurent under the guidance of Anthony Vaccarello was officially released, showing the portrait of a single person and two persons in black and white.

The future of the house has injected some sexy factors into Saint Laurent.

After Anthony Vaccarello formally took office, the official Instagram account of Saint Laurent deleted all the picture information in the Hedi Slimane era, leaving only a portraits of Anthony Vaccarello.

This behavior has also led to controversy in the industry. Fans of Hedi Slimane have said this is too merciless, and professionals believe that this practice actually undermines the brand image.

After Anthony Vaccarello formally took office, the official Instagram account of Saint Laurent deleted all the picture information in the Hedi Slimane era, and only kept the portrait of Anthony Vaccarello.

In general, luxury brands are being replaced.

Stage will be cautious, and there will not be excessive propaganda measures.

For example, during the pition period of Gucci Frida Giannini to Alessandro Michele, although the PR team hopes that the media should try not to mention the former, it is designed by Frida Giannini in the fashion magazine costume films.

It is still lending normally and keeps a surprising amount of exposure.

However, the Gucci headquarters has clearly stipulated that this series of works is forbidden to be provided to celebrities for public occasions or event Celebrations (it is said that Oscar Theron Charlize is the only one who has agreed to wear Alessandro Michele herself.

Like the stars who attended the event.

Interestingly, Tom Ford, which is regarded as a "prohibited topic" in the period of Frida Giannini, is once again "coming out of the mountain" after taking office in Florence. The Gucci Museum at the headquarters of GUCCI, in June, has deliberately opened up the classic design of half space exhibition Tom Ford period.

Alessandro also revealed his dissatisfaction with Frida and his admiration for Tom Ford in more than one interview.

In this interview, Vaccarello praised Hedi Slimane in his interview. "I respect him very much. He always sticks to his own ideas and works hard to achieve them.

He has not shown any bad works, and I think his works during the period of Saint Laurent are excellent.

By the beginning of 2016, the annual revenue of Saint Laurent brand has exceeded 1 billion US dollars, but its number of global shops is only 142, far less than those of Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Chanel, Christian Dior, Prada and so on.

Saint Laurent is bound to have enough room for development in the next few years.

Saint Laurent is also changing.

The release date of the Anthony Vaccarello kept the publication time of his brand name, and moved the Saint Laurent2017 spring and summer women's wear series to the first day of Paris women's wear week.

As far as it is concerned, it is pure.

A series of men's clothing Look will also be merged, but neither brand nor designer has revealed it.

In the industry

Also full of expectations, in addition to Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent debut, Maria Grazia Chiuri Dior and Bouchra Jarrar Lanvin will debut in this Paris women's wear week.

The Balencaiga, which has gained a lot of attention, will continue to attract people's attention.