Chinese Silk -- The Beautiful Clothes Hidden Beside West Lake, Hangzhou

2016 at the opening ceremony of the business summit of the group of twenty, President Stina Lagarde of the IMF wore an elegant blue-green scarf.

From the fashion capital of the world, the strong women in France chose Hangzhou as their element.

This scarf is green like West Lake's water, printed with the pattern of Three Ponds Mirroring the Moon, and fluttering the LOGO line of G20.

We can not help but arouse our attachment to the delicate south of the Yangtze River and the delicate silk.

The Chinese Silk Museum on the Jade Emperor Hill Road has not heard anything for a whole year.

A year passed. This week, Zhao Feng, curator of a long time, telephoned the reporter: in August 27th, our exhibition hall was ready to open to meet everyone's arrival.

A few days ago, reporters walked into the newly renovated Silk Museum.

I heard that she was crying with excitement in the face of the renovated museums and all kinds of beautiful clothes and shoes in the museum.

The reporter said that she had been running for 5 years, and her impression has always been traditional, ancient and professional.

But this time it took her two days to finish reading, and her eyes could not stop.

Because it became completely different.

The brand-new fashion hall is brightest. It is divided into China Pavilion, Western Pavilion and exhibition hall.

It used to be a vegetable plot, but now it has been pformed into a new fashion house.

The curator took Eileen Chang's Title: changing clothes.

Silk Bo has been making fashion these years: it will hold the annual fashion retrospective exhibition at the end of each year, but it has been running for 5 years, but it has not been known for many years.

They also participated in their 20 year fashion retrospective art exhibition in Beijing.

She silently accumulated the pulse of her clothes and her contacts. This time, she was surprised to see that she had received such a masterpiece of designer.

The exception of the designer, Marco.

Her famous name is "terracotta warriors".

21 years ago, at the age of 23, she had just graduated from University, and occasionally participated in the second International Cup competition.

By chance, he turned to a group of Terracotta Army photos in the library, and he made a set of robes and won the gold prize.

The terracotta warriors made Marco famous in the first World War.

Two years later, she set up an exception with her husband.

In recent years, all the gold prize works of the brothers cup have been hidden in the Silk Museum.

Designers coming out of this competition are now big coffee. For example, Wu Haiyan, the first gold medal winner, is also in Hangzhou, a teacher of the Chinese Academy of fine arts.

Recently, Guo Pei, who was very popular, had 4 representative works in the museum. This "lotus flower" was created in 2010 and Zhou Tao hosted the Spring Festival Gala.

The skirt, which is improved from Qipao, is embroidered with traditional Chinese elements such as Chinese dragon, cloud and water pattern.

In March 2008, Zhang Ziyi wore the Olympic flame collection ceremony in Athens.

The next two are the awards dress for the 2008 Beijing Olympic Games.

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At that time, Guo Pei produced five series of works to share the functions of the award ceremony dress.

There are more than one skirt in each series, which will vary according to different occasions.

And Laurence Xu's design is specially designed for this time.

The theme is the color of Dunhuang, using the color of Dunhuang frescoes.

The big flower in the chest is a treasure flower in Dunhuang, and the lake is blue.

Light and elegant, the feeling of flying, drawing closer, the details are clearer.

The designer hopes to express the communication between silk and the world through the theme of Dunhuang silk road.

How did the cheongsam in 1920s -1950 improve?

Every time the museum chooses a landmark object, we pick out some interesting ones.

1920s is the formation and maturity of Qipao. It is very tangled.

On the one hand, traditional women are keen on fashion, so they will learn how to cut Western costumes. On the other hand, people are reluctant to part with thousands of years of accustomed clothes.

As a result, this new civilization appeared, it is a big tight short jacket.

The top is a short coat with a black skirt with a large skirt and a long ankle or calf.

The coat looks simple, but it is very particular: the pendulum should be circular or straight, with a pendulum longer than the buttocks, sleeves long to the elbows, cuffs and trumpets, usually seven inches.

To see this young girl's costume, we must say that Dong Jie's cold autumn and autumn days in "Jin Fen Shi Jia" are absolutely standard.

Civilized new clothes are the most popular dress of the students in the 54 period, and they are the first to wear.

Ordinary students wear cotton cloth, and the rich ladies wear silk.

With the small and fresh atmosphere, fashionable women from all walks of life are imitating.

In fact, what people miss is the girlhood that never returns.

Next is the wife's "fake two pieces".

What is the most valuable cheongsam in the museum?

This one.

It looks rather unattractive and its color is rather stiff. The name is called the big sleeved Qipao vest, and it is also the product of 1920s.

This is not a formal cheongsam, but it is a valuable piece in the history of cheongsam.

The beginning is the matching of long waistcoat, big sleeves and short sleeves (the big sleeves are the trumpet sleeves now), and the two are separated and put together.

This piece also has two parts, black flower lace long Ma Jia, striped square silk big sleeves, but these two pieces are stitched together.

It is fake two, which is the prelude of modern cheongsam.

The cheongsam in the real sense appeared in 1925, and the right side is the genuine cheongsam in 1925, which can be compared.

This bubble sleeve cheongsam is a combination of Chinese and Western styles in the 1930s. The sleeves are obviously western and wrinkled.

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The cheongsam was made by Ieoh Ming Pei stepmother Ai Leen Pai in 1950s.

Hand stitched, lined with yellow satin, outer layer of pepper yarn, in the body and front chest position is decorated with black broken velvet flowers, and decorated with beads.

Bao Yugang's daughter donated her mother's Qipao, commonly known as the flower pattern Qipao, which was also popular at that time.

It is mainly about different color matching and flower selection. When we read the dream of Red Mansions, we all know what is fastidious about flower designs.

Lu Rongzhi, people who care about art know her.

When she was young, she studied in Europe, bought a piece of canvas with French pattern, and brought her mother into cheongsam after taking it back to Taiwan.

You see, there is a mini sunglasses on the neckline, which are her original match.

There are also some treasures from the bottom of the Hangzhou Pavilion. For example, the owner of the cheongsam is a 88 year old lady who still lives in Moganshan Road.

In 1950, when she attended the wedding, she made this cheongsam specially.

She issued a solicitation order in the newspaper many years ago, and she contacted the library on her own initiative.

Western fashion house

In this place, every girl does not want to come out.

Why do you want to be a western fashion house?

The curator said that western fashion was introduced to China, about a century ago. Today, all clothing or fashion is basically western in terms of basic style.

Nowadays, there are hundreds of colleges with clothing design major in China. One of the compulsory courses is western clothing history, not the history of Chinese clothing.

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A collection of Western fashions has been collected in the museum. There are nearly 40 thousand pieces. Only 400 of them are on display at present, but they have already covered more than 400 years.

The retro costumes of "Don ton Manor", "reason and feeling", and the Chanel suit of 1960s are all there.

The exhibits will be changed, but not necessarily for exhibitions. After that, all the collections will be put on the Internet.

For professional spectators, they will provide the opportunity to observe the storehouse and pick something to see because they need more details, materials and patterns.

Let me first talk about the most dazzling dress of the Western Pavilion, her age: About 1680 - 1700.

Many girls like the costumes of that era, but if you are not thin, you should forget.

This dress has two parts.

The sleeves are called corsets.

It was a popular jacket in Europe at that time, with sleeves detachable or sleeveless.

In order to shape and support the chest, corsets are often shaped by cane or whale.

It was an era without bra.

This corset is usually tied up in front, closed, and strangled itself.

But in exquisite words, the side and back ties are closed, which is specially for Fu Fu, who can afford servants to dress herself.

And this corset is the frenulum behind it, supported by several whale bones.

Do you think that's enough?

In the middle of the jacket, there is also a triangular triangle, embroidered with green silk and metal thread.

This is also a triangular corset, specially used to decorate women's coat or triangular ornaments in front of the corset.

Or sew, or nail in front of the bra, or tie it with a bra.

Finally, this is the dress, which is made of very precious Woven Satin fabric, and the pattern on the skirt is carnation.

The owner of this dress should be very noble. You can imagine her as Juliet in Shakespeare's writing or in Das sin in Quixote.

But what kind of waist do you want to wear such a bra? Only 1 to 5 feet and 1 feet 7.

In the 19-20 century, no matter aristocrats or ordinary girls, they came through this way.

"Gone with the wind", Hao Sijia waist 1 feet 7, not bone, 1 feet 9 after giving birth, she was very nervous, let the black old lady give her le, died of pain.

But you have to wear it!

It's hard to squeeze the waist through the corset, butt here.

Clothing in eighteenth Century is quite complicated, and the biggest feature is the big skirt.

A new dress has developed.

When a big skirt is worn, many people are amazed: how can the buttocks be plump and lordosis.

In fact, everyone has the same figure, but there is a secret weapon -- the skirt.

The skirt came into fashion from 1870 to 1890s. The most popular name was Barnier, made of whale, metal wire, cane or light wood and linen.

After putting it on, it will be oblong and oval, with a maximum width of four meters.

Where is this skirt? It's a mobile bunker.

The French dress of the French lady (the 1770-1780 age) was Barnier's skirt.

Exaggerated skirt for formal occasions, usually wear a narrow skirt.

The skirt began mass production in the middle of nineteenth Century.

It is not discovered that the earliest garment manufacturers started mass production, not clothes, but skirt.

In the past, the nobility was in a carriage. If two women went up, they could not squeeze.

They took the skirt off and hung outside the carriage. The driver was afraid of taking this kind of guest, which would slow down the car, the horse and the mail.

The following classic skirt has a very royal name: imperial style.

Popular in the neoclassical period, it is actually the ideal reappearance of ancient Greece and ancient Rome clothing, which is the most popular classical style of fashionable women in the eighteenth Century.

High waist contour, waist line around the chest, a thin magic weapon.

This dress is called Chanel's comeback.

In 1954, Ms. Chanel thought that her age was coming again, and she returned strongly with her suit.

Simple structure and powerful functionality, Chanel's suit was accepted by the whole world in 1960s.

This year's object, compared with the present, feels that the fabric and type have not changed much.

I wonder why girls need so many pockets in those days.

The fashion house is finally a display area, which lists the fashion elements after 1980, bell bottoms, pedal pants, bat sleeves, leather jackets and knickers.

Each of them has detailed words and photographs and objects.

After reading it carefully, I really want to know who wrote the text.

For example, pedal pants.

If Chinese men want to list the most intolerable fashion in 80s, step pants will be top of the list.

Women, regardless of their age and slim weight, are happy to wear their pant pants for a fall and winter, regardless of whether the leg curve displayed under the elastic fabric is really pleasing to the eye.

Jincheng Exhibition Hall shows the development process of China's silk and Silk Road in the past 5000 years.

Originally, the ancient Silk part was most extended to the Qing Dynasty.

Now, all of them are taken out to tell the history of 5000 years.

Moreover, Ming and Qing Dynasties occupied a whole layer.

The colors of these skirts are all very well matched, embroidered with silk thread at that time, and I don't know how many needles I need to have such a piece.

TVB's "Golden branch desire for evil" has been broadcast 12th anniversary. As the ancestor of the palace fighting drama, everyone has been missing it for two days.

Qi Qi Yi spent a lot of effort to supervise the production, and the requirements were very high in detail.

In the second collection, the embroidery paw collected by Kong Wu has always been a clue. At last, if the princess read the words above, she could see my tears running.

Let's talk about two things.

One is fresh and baked.

In May this year, the tomb of Zhao Boyun in the Southern Song Dynasty was excavated in Huangyan. This double breasted, double butterfly, chrysanthemum striped T-shirt comes from the tomb of the seventh grandson of song Tai.

This is also the first public display after the excavation.

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There is also hidden in the museum is a printed gold robe pattern, which is unearthed from Zhou's tomb in Jiangxi County, Southern Song Dynasty. It is also regarded as the earliest fabric loop in China.

The loop is also called buttons, knots and knots, which are derived from Chinese knots.

The tomb of Zhao Boyun was buried in the Southern Song Dynasty in ten years (1274). The tomb of Huangyan in Jiading was nine years in the Southern Song Dynasty (1216).

The tomb of Song Dynasty in Huangyan should be 58 years earlier.

This "earliest" should be rewritten.

Finally, three small topics are introduced.

A favorite room is also the most unforgettable room for all women!

First of all, a friend from the Virgo, do you enjoy it?

A lot of big brands, decades later, the basic style has not changed, that is, changes in the cortex and color, the classic is classic.

There is also a room that is very interesting and has a sense of age.

Enamel washbasin was used when we were young.

There are also scenes that I feel like I'm filming. I have the concept of miniature model. The details are very good.

For example, the previous cloth shop is like this, do not be seen again by the crew.

Tailoring shops for custom suits and cheongsam are like this.

Finally, if you look at it, remember to make full use of this search system to find different theme pavilions.