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    How Can Canadian Geese, Putin And Beckham, Change From Ugly Duckling To Luxury Geese?

    2017/2/22 12:15:00 53

    Down JacketBosidengFashion

    According to the world clothing shoes and hats net, even in the same cold winter,

    Down Jackets

    The famous company is facing a completely different situation: Bosideng, China's first largest down garment manufacturer, has quietly closed the flagship store in Mayfair, London. This is the first store in overseas layout, which has always been regarded as the symbol of the company's ambition to go out to sea; and Canada Goose (Canada goose) announced that it will make an initial public offering in New York and Toronto at the same time in March. The total sale of 10%-15% shares is expected to raise 200 million to 300 million dollars, and the valuation of the brand will reach US $2 billion.

    Few people are willing to go back to the fall of Bosteng, a shop in central London in the fall of 2012, when it was the top of China's down jacket sales list for 16 consecutive years, with 1.1 stores in China.

    According to the world clothing shoes and hats net,

    Bosideng

    Since China's Marks&Spencer (Martha), the London flagship store, which is throwing 30 million pounds, is only a drop in the bucket of its gross profit of 418 million pounds (4 billion 200 million yuan) in 2011.

    Now, Bosideng not only closes the store, but also closes its website in the UK.

    The company announced its withdrawal from the British market and interpreted it as "the unstable situation after Britain's withdrawal from Europe".

    In the case of micro-blog, there was a message from consumers saying, "the quality of Boston filling is very consciences, that is, the style...

    Ugly to tears. "

     CanadaGoose

    While Bosideng was in retreat, Canada Goose appeared in New York's stars and supermodels, followed by micro-blog's self photographing of Chinese stars such as Dongyu Zhou, Hu Ge and Jing Bairan. Although the World Meteorological Organization pointed out that the winter of 2016 was warmer than that of the previous year, although the price of some styles increased by more than 10% per year, the enthusiasm of consumers towards Canada Goose continued to increase.

    Google trend statistics show that the global user search for Canada Goose has a peak every winter and has been increasing ever since 2013.

    Transform the function oriented down jacket into one kind.

    fashion

    Consumer goods are the way for the company to appreciate.

    Fashion overwhelms the weather.

    The goose or duckling that has broken the shell for only 3 months can collect feather from the roots of the abdominal feathers.

    This type of small wool fabric, such as reed flowers, is light, fluffy and elastic. This characteristic enables it to store large amounts of static air and thus become one of the best natural textile fibers with good thermal performance.

    In the early twentieth Century, in order to resist the severe cold weather, Russia began to make winter clothes filled with feathers as the winter equipment for the army. This is the embryonic form of modern down garments.

    In 1930s, in Washington state, a shop owner named Eddie Bauer discovered that a woolen jacket was not enough to withstand the sharp drop of temperature in the mountains after sunset.

    Cold is a fatal threat to outdoor enthusiasts.

    In order to develop warmer and lighter outdoor sportswear, Eddie Bauer tried to imitate Russian military uniform, choose waterproof nylon fabric and add goose down into the double layer fabric. In order to prevent the dash from running around in the interlayer of clothes, he also stitched a diamond shaped lattice as a reinforcement.

    In 1936, the world's first quilted down garment TheSkyliner was born on the Bauer hand, and it was patented in 1940.

    During World War II, Eddie Bauer became a US military uniform supplier.

    Today, the brand has hundreds of stores in the United States, with annual sales of up to 2 billion dollars.

    Most of the functional down jacket is born in sports or outdoor brands, such as Moncler in France, Jack Wolfskin in Germany, The North Face, Marmot and Columbia in the United States.

    Canada Goose also started in a small workshop that made snowfield motorcycle jackets.

    In 1957, a Poland raincoat craftsman named SamTik hired five workers. In a warehouse in Toronto, he created the brand Metro Sportswear of winter duty coat and sweater for policemen of Ontario Province, and then continued to make the tooling with the brand name of SnowGoose.

     CanadaGoose

    In 1997, Tik's son-in-law David Reiss gradually began to take part in the business of the small company.

    He led the business to a winter down coats and provided uniforms to business customers such as the Canadian government, polar science teams and airlines. Therefore, Canada Goose had no retail outlets for a long time.

    This kind of "relying on heaven" clothing often exposes its limitations.

    On the one hand, they are mainly used for professionals working in extreme weather, mountaineering and skiing enthusiasts. Most of them can not escape the appearance of bloated, often regarded as "fashion poison". On the other hand, winter is the key season of performance, but influenced by global warming, many winter brand brands are always worried about inventory at the end of each year.

    AdAge, an advertising agency in the US, has reported that by the end of 2015, Messi, Kors and clothing retailer Gap complained that the warm winter had dragged the back leg of November sales, because the temperature in New York, Chicago and Baltimore was 10% higher than in previous weeks until the first week of Christmas, which caused us retailers to lose 185 million US dollars. Many brands had to sell the down coats, thick sweaters and scarves at a discount.

    However, Racked, a retail industry media, found that the two brands of Canada Goose and Moncler can be strong enough to withstand the trend of selling winter clothes.

    A supermodel He Sui's CanadaGoose "Expedition" coat sells for more than 1000 dollars, and Moncler is almost all over the line for more than 1500 dollars. From the price point of view, it is already a luxury item. As the originator of down jacket, Eddie Bauer even costs no more than 400 dollars at a discount price.

    It is "luxury" or "high-end" positioning that these two brands need not look at the face of the old man.

    Neil Sanders, a Conlumino analyst at the consulting firm, explains that consumers often consume the down market clothing because of the sudden cooling of the weather. This is impulse shopping. The brand of this market is most seriously affected by the weather changes. Canada Goose and Moncler, which have become high-end brands, are not affected, because fashion lovers will buy an outfit of these brands as an investment.

    Racked quoted a staff member from DELL department store as saying that Canada Goose and Moncler had heated the whole winter market.

    The staff even observed that the winter coat has become a symbol of identity for the elites working in New York.

    Arthur Zaczkiewicz, deputy editor in chief, once mock at reporters: "they sweat, but they still wear Canada Goose.

    Fashion overwhelms the weather.

    On the other hand, the two brands have shaken the rules of luxury goods to some extent.

    Racked pointed out that the coat used to protect the cold is hardly regarded as a part of luxury goods. From Chanel's tweed coat to Burberry's windbreaker, no one is designed for warmth.

    But Sucharita Mulpuru, a Forrester retail analyst at the Research Institute, believes that Moncler and its peers have "completely changed the dialogue".

    Because these brands give the thick coat "worthy of investment", so that products have similar characteristics of luxury.

    {page_break}

    Ugly duckling to luxurious goose

    In 2001, when David Reiss formally took the CEO seat from her father-in-law, Canada Goose earned only $3 million a year, compared with 290 million 800 thousand last year.

    In 15 years, the hurricane was nearly one hundred times.

    Moncler 2003's revenue is only 50 million euros, but the market has been increasing rapidly since three years ago. According to its interim results released in July 2016, the first half revenue increased 17.1% to 346 million 500 thousand euros, and its market value was about 4 billion 300 million euros.

    Similar to Canada Goose, the rise of the brand is also attributed to a head of gold.

    In 2003, Remo Ruffuni, a Italy designer and entrepreneur from a family of fashion, bought Moncler.

    In an interview with the fashion column "Fashion interview notes", Ruffuni explained the reason: "it must be a brand with a good history. I am very familiar with Moncler because it was very popular in Italy in 1980s."

    Canada Goose is ambitious for brand positioning. It hopes to turn its own down jacket to Canada's national brand, just like Swiss watches and Scandinavian furniture.

    In fact, its name, Canada Goose, is not a goose, but a Canadian National Black goose.

    The brand claims that the product has been completed in Canada from material selection and processing. It makes people feel that the quality of the down jacket is excellent enough to withstand the cold weather approaching the polar circle.

    Reiss halted the production of the original Snow Goose to ensure that all products reflect the word "Canadian made" and enhance the brand image.

    On the sleeves of its down jacket, there are also canadian goose designs for the science team, which contain badges and maps of the north pole and maple leaves.

    Moncler's strategy is to avoid emphasizing the identity of "fashion brand", which is a good clothing that everyone can wear for years.

    The brand also sponsored the Explorer Michele Pontrandolfo, making him the first person to go to the Antarctic expedition alone.

    Similarly, it is marked by steep mountains and gallic roosters.

    The two brands are selected in the wilderness or ice and snow fields, supplemented by the image of a wolf or polar bear. The model is plunged into a large down garment, revealing only a face with a grim expression. The window design of the shop also emphasizes elements such as skiing and adventure, which are completely different from the fairy tales or fashion sense created by other brands.

    But on the other hand, these brands are closely related to fashion.

    The first step is to impress female consumers.

    After David Reiss took over Canada Goose, she began to develop the women's wear line, adding fur collar and waist to other models of the outdoors police uniform.

    Today is still being ridiculed as bloated, fat version, in fact, has been countless times to improve the direction of self-cultivation results.

    In 2006, Remo Ruffini excavated the creative director Alessandra Facchinetti of Valentino to build the high-end women's wear line Moncler Gamme Rouge, and worked hard to shape it into a product line of fashion week.

    In terms of channel layout, Reiss intends to allow Canada Goose to join various fashion brands' orders, contact with buyers and boutique stores, and set up its first showroom in New York in 2015.

    Moncler is avoiding the location of traditional sports brands when choosing the location of online stores, but striving for location near luxury brands. Consumers will naturally regard Moncler as the same luxury brand under the background of big neighbours.

    Next is promotion.

    The magic girl in X police 2 passes through specially tailored and ankle length Canada Goose; James Bond's gifted gifted colleague Q passes through the Canada Goose outdoor coat.

    Canada Goose has long denied that it has invested in advertising.

    Jackie Poriadjian-Asch, the chief marketing officer, has publicly stated that "products have never been specially implanted, usually by producers and stylists."

    However, Canada Goose is undoubtedly trying to pry up more fashionable chips.

    Kate Upton, a supermodel, was on the cover of sports illustrated in bikini and down jacket, and more star related Street racket circulated on social networks.

    Moreover, in July 2016, Canada Goose became one of the 18 partners of the Paris fashion brand Vetements custom tailor series. Shortly after that, it co operated with OpeningCeremony, a well-known buyer's shop in New York, and launched a limited edition joint down jacket.

    And Moncler is like an old fashions.

    Its high-end product line Moncler Gamme Rouge is a frequent visitor on the official schedule of Paris fashion week.

    Moncler's own products have included the down dress, the cocoon coat and the velvet boots with a skirt, and have also issued a joint name with the designer brand AMI, tide brand Off-White, hat brand NewEra and so on. The content is far beyond the traditional winter wear, such as the feather jacket, the hat skateboard, the shoes and so on.

    Its spring and summer advertisements in 2016 were handled by the famous portrait photographer Annie Leibovitz, who also worked with Leica to launch cameras and launch suitcases with Rimowa.

    Even Ma Yun is also a fan of Moncler down jacket.

    If you want to think of luxury as a quality card in marketing, you must hold the production end firmly in your hands.

    Reiss did not choose to outsource production to factories in Asia, but stayed in Canada. Some processes still retain manual sewing.

    Similarly, after Remo Ruffuni took charge of Moncler, the first thing to do was to divide the overseas authorized production enterprises of the brand into complete recycling to European manufacture.

    The two brands also rarely offer substantial discounts.

    According to reports, Professor Susan Fournier of Boston University Business School believes that the success of Canada Goose lies in "maintaining a high price, maintaining a conservative output and controlling the channel."

    At the same time, they continue to develop new fabrics, give full play to their functional advantages and add a sense of technology to the brand image.

    For example, when you walk into a Moncler store, the salesperson will proudly introduce the use of Japanese made fabrics in down coats, and with the unique ratio of velvet and feather, the filling will not leak out of the seams as easily as ordinary down garments.

    One of the down garments displayed in its 2017/2018 autumn and winter show is a hot press membrane lined with Grenoble, which improves the waterproof performance of the clothes and facilitates the use of snow or skiing. The jacket and skirt are blended with wool and nylon, which is more breathable than traditional nylon.

    Canada Goose has exclusive fabric ArcticTech, which can withstand low temperature of 30 degrees below zero, and is more wearable than ordinary fabrics.

     CanadaGoose

    In 2013 Bain Capital offered $250 million to acquire Canada Goose majority stake, and from the 2014 fiscal year to now, Canada Goose's average sales growth rate is close to 40%, net profit has increased by about 196%. If the March fund-raising success, will undoubtedly make Bain Capital earn full pot.

    The Moncler listed in Milan in 2013 is the best reference.

    Private equity funds Moncler, EurazeoSA, IDG capital and Carlyle Group have earned hundreds of millions of euros from this year's largest retail IPO.

    Since its listing, Moncler has maintained a growth rate of more than two digits. In June 2016, two investors were introduced: Chairman and shareholder JuanTorres of Temasek Holdings and DufryAG (the world's largest duty-free shop group).

    This is Temasek Holdings's first investment in Italian company.

    Putting all your eggs in one basket is more effective.

    The fatal defect of down jacket is the relative simplification of products.

    This characteristic makes the down jacket sales cycle most often only about 9 months, and winter sales become a vital lifeline.

    To break through this limitation, Bosideng tried to pform from the down jacket brand to the whole category. After 2012, Bosideng began to expand the non feather clothing category stores and counters, and tried to establish multi brand combination, four seasons products and international channels. When the expansion was fastest, Bosideng's main line brand Bosideng, Xue Zhong Fei, Kang Bo, Bing Jie, Shang Yu, Ricci-Club, Bosideng Plus Zero and many other younger brands such as women's clothing, etc.

    In addition to London's stores, Posden also bought overseas brands and went to New York to organize walking shows and guerrilla stores.

    {page_break}

    However, the radical expansion strategy made the company's revenue continue to decline from the 2013 fiscal year.

    As of March 31, 2015, Bosideng retail outlets were 6599, a significant decrease of 5053 compared to the same period last year, and in September last year, the figure dropped to 4822.

    The original sub line brand "KangBo" was forced to shut down because of poor management.

    But today, the Canada Goose and Moncler, which are magnificent in the capital market, are doing the opposite. They are constantly betting on the fist products.

    Canada Goose's product improvement is almost still concentrated on heavy coat.

    For example, the pilot jacket was popular in 2016. It immediately launched a military green jacket jacket with short jacket. At the same time, CanadaGoose also used a new type of technology fabric called Tri-Durance, which has stronger breathability and softer texture, and is specially used for making light down clothing that can be worn inside the suit coat.

    Up to now, 85% of Moncler's sales have been made up of down garments.

    There are some adjustments to the brand, for example, the birth of a light down jacket is intended to promote sales in the temperate and subtropical regions; the business travel series is used by travellers between the northern and southern hemispheres; the model showcase of the store is often a mix of down clothes with ordinary clothes, and encourages consumers to find the opportunity to wear down clothes in the fall outside of the winter.

    RemoRuffi believes that a single throw is an effective measure to strengthen the brand image.

    According to the world clothing and shoe net, Ruffini admits frankly: "yes, in the six or seven month of Naples (the largest city in southern Italy), we may not sell anything, but we don't care. What we care about is how to build a strong brand according to our own story."

    However, reporters believe that the cost of channel expansion and market competition will still be the risk faced by Canada Goose.

    CNN wealth channel said: "Canada Goose operates in a highly crowded and fragmented market", and Moncler, the main competitor, has already had a relatively solid business foundation in the market of luxury goods.

    No one knows whether the goose will be so lucky in the future.

    After all, clothing is a cruel business.

    More interesting reports, please pay attention to the world clothing shoes and hats net.

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