Is Fashion Commentator No Longer Disinterested?

According to the world clothing shoes and hats net,

It is a dedicated ceremony to stick together small fragments scattered in the fashion year's agenda, so that fashion professionals can prove their value.

Just as luxury

The Olympic Games:

To show off its ability to capture the spirit of the times and lead the way of the age, the stylist shows off its modeling skills, and contributors and commentators display their tact that enables the general public to understand colorful fashion (though the actual information they provide is tantamount to the new clothes of the emperor).

In this sense, the writer is an important part of the whole mechanism.

In all kinds of fashion activities full of self paralysis and small circles, reading reviews of fashion shows actually means that readers will be able to harvest a joyful time.

In the morning, before we started our new day's outing, we were delighted to read Suzy Menkes, Cathy Horyn, Vanessa Friedman, Sarah Mower, Tim Blanks, Godfrey yen and others for the comment on the fashion show of the day before. They were able to reach the top of the industry in Pyramid with a pen pen, because they saw a lot of sharpness. The bigger reason lies in the heavyweight status and huge circulation of their media in the industry.

Reading reviews may be one of the ways to really understand those highly conceptual designers who want to convey information. For example, you may be more likely to understand the Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Gar ons ons; perhaps it is easier to understand Miuccia Prada's wanton and obscure inspiration reference.

When people in the industry go deep into these everyday products, they will find that everything has been carefully examined: how many paragraphs length from the designated designer to countless ambiguous words, the reader is forced to guess for himself: does the author think a hair cloth will be good or bad?

Though sometimes interesting, the implication of the reader is a dangerous move.

Let's consider each comma's position and decompose every adjective, just like these hastily written reports are all the words of the ancient prophet.

Why do we do this? It's very simple: all of us, whether ordinary readers or professionals, are eager for objective and fair comments, because we know more clearly that there are many obstacles to stop this utopian ideal from becoming a reality.

Fashion houses and, in most cases, companies and groups that own these fashion houses have gained enormous power in recent years, which is no less powerful than the news media.

These dazzling giants like to show off their powerful muscles from time to time, and our publishers, editors, and all kinds of public relations and industry guardians, who are increasingly leading the game, remind us all the time.

The fashion as an industry depends on business survival, and commerce is the result of careful planning by a series of media: anything that creates obstacles is basically dangerous, and at all costs eliminate them.

The best example is the difference between frank and open (or even diligent) press conferences, and actual written reports that are filtered through layers and eventually published.

Fashion journalists are becoming more and more good at implicit criticism and flattering, speaking less or understatement, and writing euphemistic criticism, which are usually just fleeting thrill, and become the background sound of the enterprise settings that are well worth the opinion column.

Like many of my peers, I am a freelancer.

I will never exchange the right to work with anyone in exchange for a full-time job; but as a freelancer, my income depends entirely on the articles I write.

In other words, I want to earn a living by relying on relationships.

This means that all my capital should be established on the basis of establishing relationships with fashion companies.

These relationships are often based on mutual concern and mutual openness, sometimes recorded on record, sometimes not made public, but this can not be confused with "friendship", even if we are constantly aware of the possibility of confusion.

In this vague framework, it is becoming more and more difficult to maintain your critical voice, but to be insightful and to bring the respect of others, even from your enemies.

However, the fashion industry forces us to control our criticism to a certain extent.

To this extent, it is a confusing Wasteland: if I choose to write something that may make a fashion house unhappy, it will affect the friendly relationship I have established, and I may lose the opportunity to participate in the brand press conference or interview with the designers. Then I have a discounted ability to do my job well.

The politics of the fashion industry can be attributed to a series of subtle rules: the author should learn how to express sharp opinions in a mild way. The designer should learn to accept criticism as a spur, rather than "behind the arrow."

But in my career, I met many designers who voluntarily accepted the "bad reviews". I also met many big cafes who took "good reviews" for granted.

In other words, generalizations are meaningless.

But the real problem is not here.

As a freelancer, I am witnessing a strange mixture of business interests and freedom of expression every day, which is the real poison of contemporary fashion.

The continuous communication and penetration between fashion houses and editors, authors and stylists may become some shameful activities.

Famous media sometimes open their doors to infiltrate manuscript with weird but expensive payment, or be commissioned to write a press release for a fashion review, which means that the boundary of professional ethics is dangerous and vague.

Fashion reporters with sharp teeth and high reputation can also be hired as public relations communication consultants by brands, which is even more difficult at the level of professional ethics.

Similarly, stylists who are employed in magazines often provide styling advisory services for fashion houses in a semi public way, and editors also know when to turn a blind eye.

Independent magazines are often like public relations firms that use their publications as proof of good taste to get "connections", and their editors have been unable to review business in a critical way.

Flying to distant foreign countries to participate in the brand early spring early autumn conference or other special events, the luxury travel cost is wrapped by the brand and is another source of red envelopes in the work.

Although the brand does not expressly express expectations, it is likely that these benefits can also be reflected in the final manuscript.

Business class tickets, five-star hotel accommodation, and the promise to issue the most intimate circle tickets in the fashion industry will guarantee us to some extent a gentle and elegant comment.

Fashion itself is a dangerous temptation: Fashion ensures that every top industry enjoys a five star luxury lifestyle, even if their daily lives depend on government relief.

{page_break} these giant star levels of treatment have spoiled you, the temptation to pull you into a smoky moral trade may be hard to resist.

Besides, fashion has the whole system support and the unique magic power to turn enemies into allies. Think of fashion bloggers. In just a few years, they can abandon their original voice and begin to openly and mediocre in product placement.

Fashion is a game that we all participate in together.

Even the media that you are reading in this article is part of this game.

Whether this is an editor who expresses frustration with my voice, it gives me a completely different outlet for self expression.

We all want exposure, and the power that comes with exposure, along with the rewards from free gifts to admission tickets to the famous designer's most sacred private territory.

But the more friendly a fashion house or designer is, the harder it is for you to write an honest comment.

Today, fashion news is pforming into the decorative lace news produced at best to meet demand, and worst case is the most accurate product implant.

Magazines no longer rely on newsstand distribution, but rely on advertising pages to earn income, pay for production costs and staff salaries.

In addition, the luxury industry is still the Prime Minister of many newspapers and magazines, but its employees and editors often look down on fashion and regard it as auxiliary secondary content.

Many journalists devote their time and talents to fashion, and they are very understandable about their frustration. However, this frustration has become more and more compromising with the code of practice, which seems to be a good discussion.

For example, street photographers everywhere outside the show are creating professional stars who are behind the scenes to become popular stars.

Among my peers, there are also smart people who use Instagram and other social media channels to create invisible billboards.

In return, they received cordial thanks from the latest fashion brands.

It seems innocuous at first glance, but let the journalist who is supposed to be a liberal thought writer receive fashion from the fashion brand as a reward. The shadow of this industry everywhere not only erodes the trust of readers, but also undermines the progress and development of the industry.

Another point is worth noting that we, as commentators, are also flesh and blood: we are not robots, but sometimes we are professionally - deeply in love with a designer.

In our readers' eyes, excessive praise is interpreted as moral deficiency, and in fact, we sometimes make a mistake.

But when the fashion industry is regarded as "opaque" as a whole, simple mistakes will also make us all guilty.

The contemporary fashion system does not encourage all kinds of comments. The cultural wasteland before us makes it so open and straightforward that it is really painful.

Today's fashion is mainly related to public relations communication. Apart from design innovation, what we have left is: endless postmodernist looting on old ideas, and reorganizing old ideas out of new marketing for new products.

Real fashion reviews are parallel to progress, because only doubts and debates can create new solutions and new scenes, lighting the progressive movement.

But this continuing danger has been silenced: sometimes it comes from unilateral dictatorship (the most direct and direct act is to remove the advertisement page of the publication), and sometimes through more subtle pressure, such as depriving fashion journalists from entering fashion conferences or designer's chance to take pictures of brand clothing.

So don't forget that reviews are indispensable for any industry, and are also opportunities for self questioning.

The blind optimism of the collapse of the wall will only help accelerate the decline of the Empire, despite its decline or the premise of our restarting.

If some of the points we wrote in the commentary can trigger a subversion and restart, we will have a good start.

Vestoj is a multi media platform for critical thinking of fashion.

Up to now, its banner includes a yearbook, an online website and a regular Vestoj salon. The theme of its discussion around fashion is "material memory", "shame", "power", "time", "failure" and so on. Its latest theme is "masculinity".

Each Vestoj project reflects and illustrates the contemporaneity's reflection and Practice on the fashion concept and its contribution to the society.

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