Why Is It Called The Ultimate Symbol Of Luxuries?
According to the world clothing shoes and hats net, the Vicu a, also known as the alpaca, is regarded by the Incas as a God. It is not unreasonable. This kind of animal with light and cinnamon fur is the cousin of the llama.
Their eyes are innocent and they live on the cold Andes plateau. Their fine and precious fluff is considered to be comparable to gold.
Only royal aristocrats of the Inca Empire were allowed to wear woollen fabrics.
Before the advent of Spanish conquerors, nearly 3 million horses were roaming in the rocky zone of the Andes.
They captured the "new world" by means of gun fire.
silk
"Ornamental decoration for the bedroom of Philip II of Spanish sovereign.
For several centuries, because the horse's fur is better than cashmere.
Cashmere
(Cashmere) better quality. These animals are not only people who get the fuzz, but also are hunted.
In 1950s, "Loma" became the reference of the two pop culture.
What is more striking is the scandal of Dwight Eisenhower's White House chief of staff, Sherman Adams (Sherman Adams), who accepted an investigation by the Federal Bureau of investigation (Eisenhower).
Spin
The llama coat, presented by the industry tycoon, was forced to resign in 1958. The event will therefore be called "the event of the Loma Mau coat"; the other is from the 1950 Boulevard Sunset Boulevard, where a tailor urged the American writer William Holton (William Holden) to play the downbeat screenwriter: "anyway, why did she not pay for the horse?"
These two moments add charm aura to expensive horse hair. These creatures are incredibly rare, and the Andean mountains are less than 5000 remaining since 1960.
After many failed efforts, the Peru government issued its famous ban on hunting for llama near Peru, a populous area near the Andean mountains. Soon it was classified as all wool trade embargo by the 1976 Convention on international trade in endangered species of wild animals and plants (CITES, also known as the Washington Convention), and is listed on the endangered species list.
Later, in connection with the establishment of the protected nature reserve of Loma, the relationship between the horse and woolen fabric gradually lost its relationship with the younger generation of luxury consumers.
However, due to the love of their parents, a pair of "Luo Ma fans" discovered business opportunities on this material. They are the two joint CEO of Loro Piana, Italy luxury goods manufacturer, Sergio Loro Piana, Pier Luigi Loro Piana brothers.
Loro Piana itself is part of the "Italy manufacturing movement" in 1950s, and eventually grew into one of the world's largest cashmere producers. It is also the world's largest supplier of Loma hair.
Pier Luigi Loro Piana said: "we have made a lot of efforts to reintroduce Lomamau into the business world."
In 1980s, Loro Piana formally invested in the Luo Ma nature reserve and other protective measures in the medium term, and actively participated in the cooperation of the Peru government.
Referring to the joint efforts made by the elder brothers to return the market to the market, Pier Luigi Loro Piana said: "from 1980 to early 1990s, we have made a lot of efforts to achieve all this."
In 1994, their brilliant business vision was rewarded: the Washington Convention relaxed the restrictions on animals. The government of Peru chose Loro Piana as its exclusive partner to purchase, process and export llamas in the form of fabrics and finished products.
"Since then, we have been able to purchase large quantities of government official trimmed downhill tomentose, research and develop new categories of products and explore the possibility of developing the market here."
Today, the global supply of wool to the yarn is only about 12 tons, compared with about 25000 tons of cashmere.
"The cost of each kilo of loco wool is between 399 and 600 dollars, cashmere price is between 75 and 85 dollars, and wool is between 5 and 6 dollars," said Pascaline Wilhelm, fashion director of Paris textile and fabric exhibition Premi re Vision.
It's so rare that 100% of the horse's hair is very rare.
But is there really a market for the fur products of Loma? Or is Lomamau's business more similar to that of advanced customization -- a display of creativity and quality -- making it more like marketing practice in the end?
In the spiritual home of the rich, London, Harold (Harrods), Loma hair products seem to be very popular, and Thorstein Veblen's theory also thinks that expensive materials are one of the biggest selling points of such products in itself. (Thorstein)
Helen David, chief buyer of Harold's department store, said: "now we have strong demand for Loma hair. Our customers realize that this is one of the rarest and best quality materials in the world."
However, she refused to disclose the specific sales figures, and said: "the best selling product is obviously from the Loro Piana, but at the same time we have the design of Berluti, Zegna, Brioni, Zilli and other brands."
Harold's department stores also sell Falke pure pure horse horse socks at a price of 620 US dollars.
"Finally, we spent two years producing socks," said Paul Falke, the current chief executive of the top socks luxury brand.
It also says that the used horse hair is also from Loro Piana.
"There is a great demand for these Loma horse socks. Because of the rare and exclusive yarn of the Loma horse, we can only produce a small quantity of products every year, which is a real luxury."
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At Loro Piana's boutique Bond Street boutique, HD videos of llamas roaming in the Andes mountains are shown on large widescreen televisions.
The store also placed small piles of primitive llama hair, customers can personally touch the villi, as if touches the clouds.
The idea here is that as long as you touch the horse's fur, you know that cashmere is no match.
As Mr. Loro Piana said, "once you are addicted to it, it's hard for you to change your mind."
The price of the brand's sweater is 4.5 times that of the brand cashmere sweater, and the cashmere sweater is priced at $995.
The price of other similar Loma hair V sweaters is $4495.
With the brand's 100% Loma hair jacket and shawl, its chipmunk fur and mink lining often show its decadent sense. Some people end up with symbols of symbolic status.
But Loro Piana's Bond Street boutique sells only one style at a time, and the product of horse hair is only a small proportion of its display products.
"This is a small part of our company, but it is very important," Mr. Loro Piana said.
In 2013, he and his elder brother sold 80% of the brand to the French luxury giant LVMH by $2 billion.
Loro Piana, the world's largest manufacturer of Loma hair products, declined to disclose part of the total sales revenue of the company.
But Mr. Loro Piana has never hesitated to compare the products of horse products to those of advanced fashion. "It also depends on how you define" advanced custom clothes, "he said." if you are only too vague to refer to those lofty things and have no real meaning to the world, then the horse products are not.
But if you refer to an expression of creativity and highest quality, you can really compare the product of horse and horse with advanced customization.
If the wardrobe of Loro Piana customer can only have one piece of clothing, no doubt this dress should be made of horse hair.
Today, Loro Piana controls most of the world's Loma hair market.
The company first launched a Dr. Franco Loro Piana protected area (Dr Franco Loro Piana Reserva) in Peru in 2008. In 2013, it acquired a majority stake in a Argentina farm licensed by law to prune wild wild horses. The farm covers an area of about 85 thousand hectares in 2013.
Three years ago, Loro Piana began selling the Loma wool yarn to other brands.
"If you want to be competitive and provide materials to third parties, what you need first is a lot of raw materials," explains Mario Ortelli, senior analyst at Sanford C.Bernstein. "These third party brands who purchase Loro Piana will usually mention this from haudy, because this brand has become the pronouncement of Sanford Bernstein and high quality, so this creates a win-win situation."
But now the company has stepped back, saying that it will sell the wool and wool blended materials to the third party and leave the 100% horse hair to its own product.
"I think this is a good way to make Loro Piana stand out," said Luca Solca, director of luxury products at Exane BNP Paribas, Paris, France. "They have developed many raw material acquisition channels, such as lotus fiber, cashmere and loco wool, which proves their ambition to make high-end products, proving that they are different from other competitors.
Although the company is dominant in supply, Loro Piana is not the only brand that can get pure Luo Ma Mao.
Since the opening of the "Washington Convention" in 2002, the other brands and factories have been purchasing wool from South America.
Ermenegildo Zegna and Brioni, the brand of Kai Yun group (Kering), also began offering the products of Loma hair products, and claimed to be independent purchasing materials.
Xavier Strasse (Savile Row) top fabric manufacturer Holland & Sherry has been purchasing loco wool from Bolivia, Peru, Argentina and Chile since 2003 (the company said that Loro Piana had to purchase in 4 countries at the same time as a near monopoly in South America), otherwise it would be difficult to buy enough loco in a single country.
"When customers talk about" Loma hair, "they tend to mention Loro Piana," Holland Chambers business director Richard Chambers said. "Our services are definitely not inferior to them. But they became part of the development process of Loma MA in the early years, such as LVMH's brand, and more like promoting other brands in the same group."
In addition, Berluti, a fashion house under Lu Wei Ming Xuan, is the first senior garment series run by the current creative director Haider Ackermann. It also contains a double open top coat made of 100% Loma hair. Berluti said that it was purchased from Loro Piana.
So how did Loro Piana integrate the conservation of the llama into the business agenda and become the focal point? "The reason why it became a market leader is that we are more likely to buy most of the available materials, and these materials can ensure continuity of the business for the breeder." Mr. Loro Piana said, "we have to convince them that these animals are worth protecting and nurturing.
Besides, to raise a horse, you need at least 10 hectares of pasture and special care. "
The way of coats: a The Coat Route:On the Trail of the 50000 Coat, the author of a $fifty thousand coat making process, Meg Lukens Noonan started researching the Loma horse 7 years ago, and witnessed the traditional "ancient" shearing process inspired by the ancient Inca civilization.
She said the Italy brand was crucial in promoting the breeding of wild horse breeding, but was skeptical about its trade agreements with local villagers.
"In the process of harvest, these villagers are stakeholders, so it is profitable for everyone.
They can get some money, and there is every reason to protect the horse from the poachers, "Lukens Noonan said." but the villagers didn't make much money, so you know the great difference between their income and the value of Mao Chengpin.
Lukens Noonan added: "I think the efforts made by Loro Piana are indeed helpful to the survival of Loma, but I am not sure whether Loro Piana has a positive impact on local residents.
For Peru people, what is similar to build local manufacturing industry is not so profitable. This is a very small market. "
Mr. Loro Piana seems to have realized that the situation must be changed to attract new workers into full-time horse breeding.
"We need the younger generation to take care of the horses here," he said. "But they also need to live up to the standard of living of young people in the city, otherwise they will definitely get out of the Andes."
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