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    Lanvin Is Only A Step Away From Marginalization.

    2017/7/19 12:37:00 80

    FashionDesignerBrand

     Lanvin

    The ever-changing trend of the fashion industry is often baffling, especially the rapid change of creative director, almost becoming the norm.

    Just over half of this year, we have seen Riccardo Tisci leave Givenchy, replaced by Chlo's Clare Waight Keller, Natacha Ramsay-Levi will debut in the Chlo 2018 spring summer series, Paul Surridge quickly joined in after she left.

    Recently, in March last year, the replacement of Alber Elbaz became the creative director of Lanvin (Lang Fan) Bouchra Jarrar. After contributing two big shows, the short contract with Lanvin has come to an end, and the term will be less than 1 and a half years.

    On the fourth day after the departure of Bouchra Jarrar, Lanvin quickly appointed the new creative director Olivier Lapidus to take the lead, and will debut the Lanvin debut in Paris fashion week in September.

    Is it necessary to pform the luxury goods from the low price to the American Mike high?

    Olivier Lapidus is not active.

    fashion

    Frontline

    Designer

    I believe many people are still strange to him. He is the son of the famous fashion designer Ted Lapidus.

    He was founded by Balmain Homme and his father.

    brand

    Ted Lapidus, and 4 years ago, crossed the border for the sixteenth District of Paris F e licien The Inn Boutique interior design.

    During last week's Paris custom fashion week, Olivier Lapidus launched the world's first Internet based custom house, taking advantage of the show to buy Dongfeng, allowing customers to watch the fashion show online and instantly purchase the displayed styles.

    He also opened a hotline to provide 11 foreign language orders, and equipped with a whole production line.

    At first glance, its resume and design may not impress people instantly. However, with his experience in both China and Japan, his vision and furniture design and business design may be lacking in the brand of Lanvin, and even in the September fashion week of Paris, it seems reasonable to choose him as the creative director of branded women's clothes at this critical moment.

    Olivier Lapidus recently told reporters: "it's a great honor to join Lanvin, and I sincerely thank Mrs. Wang Xiaolan for her trust.

    Lanvin has nearly 130 years of history, is France's oldest fashion brand.

    How to make Lanvin flourishing is a difficult and exciting challenge. "

    According to the British fashion business website, Olivier Lapidus intends to pform the world of fashion and make the 100 year fashion house a "French version of Michael Kors", but has not yet received a positive response from the brand headquarters.

    This statement has confused many professionals. Maybe Lanvin is really forced by business.

    In the early years, the idea of Lanvin pformation may still be exciting, but now it is more or less "mildew". Even though it is the leader of light luxury concept, Michael Kors is also losing money at this stage.

    The latest quarterly report shows that the brand's revenue has shrunk by 11.2% over the past three months as of April 1st this year, with a net loss of $26 million 800 thousand.

    From Lanvin, a luxury brand with hundreds of years of history and tens of thousands of dollars, to be pformed into light luxury, this step is a bit big, but on the other hand, it also shows that even today, the brand has to reverse the situation even if it takes risks.

    Do not you know that Brigitte Lin will wear the "French version of Michael Kors" to walk the red carpet? Has she personally admitted that her favorite clothing brand is Lanvin.

    The performance was far behind LV and GUCCI.

    The situation of Lanvin is not optimistic at present. Sales in 2015 were 200 million euros, compared with sales of 250 million euros in 2014, which dropped by more than 20%. In 2016, its sales further dropped 23% to 162 million euros, and the first time in ten years, it was a 18 million 300 thousand euro loss.

    What is particularly worrying is that in the global luxury market as a whole, Lanvin has dropped by 32% in the first two months of this year.

    It is far from the strong performance of competitors such as Louis Vuitton and Gucci.

    The contradiction between its creative class and management has erupted repeatedly.

    In 2015, the sudden departure of Lanvin's original creative director, Alber Elbaz, shocked the whole fashion circle. He worked for Lanvin for 14 years and was forced to leave because of a major disagreement with the board of directors.

    When he left, he talked about Wang Xiaolan's death in the stock market, unwilling to introduce new blood and unwilling to invest more, so he limited the development of the company.

    No one expected this to happen even in the fashion world that had been accustomed to the replacement of designers.

    The original harmonious marriage between designer and brand suddenly turned into an ugly "divorce", like many divorces.

    Many employees followed Alber Elbaz "betrayal". They not only went on strike with the support of Alber Elbaz, but the Union also sued management.

    The sharp regression of performance is closely related to the departure of Alber Elbaz. Customers can no longer buy the Lanvin brand signature design that has been redefined for 14 years, and wholesale customers such as multi brand stores and department stores have reduced the number of new orders, and wholesale income has thus dropped by 30%-40%.

    Lanvin has always relied on Wholesale partners, and about 70% of its revenue comes from wholesale businesses.

    Vanessa Friedman, a fashion critic, once said that Lanvin has no Alber Elbaz, and it is no different from ordinary brands.

    {page_break}

    In March 2016, designer Bouchra Jarrar took over Alber Elbaz as the creative director of Lanvin's new women's wear.

    However, the creative director Lanvin did not welcome the expected achievement in spring. The first series of products sold by Bouchra Jarrar was in poor condition, and the performance of the second series was not much improved.

    And last year, the number of sales declined even more than two figures, and the rumors that Jarra and Michele Huiban were disagreed with each other seemed to have foreshadowed her short-lived career in Lanvin for only 16 months.

    Bouchra Jarrar left office in less than 16 months, and he said he failed to get company support.

    According to the world clothing shoes and hats net, it is said that the female director is annoyed by the company's lack of clear strategy and investment.

    This coincides with her predecessor, Alber Elbaz.

    Since the end of 2015, the company's internal fight split has also damaged the Lanvin brand. After many personnel changes, Lanvin is still in a confused period.

    Fast fashion has raised expectations for luxury brand groups, and business is starting to force designers to think like businessmen, always want faster, and want more, and once done badly, designers will be kicked out immediately, so that the whole fashion creative link is in a vicious circle.

    The designer's frequent departure makes Lanvin once again in a difficult pition period. The only way to find breakthroughs is to find a good designer who combines beauty, creativity and commercially.

    After all, Alber Elbaz once pushed the serious loss or even bankrupt Lanvin to the first-class Paris fashion house. The image of Lanvin was too deep and solid. Even Bouchra Jarrar also called her chiffon dress without a little fat dress.

    It is possible to move away from headquarters in 1889.

    In addition to personnel changes in the creative director, Lanvin is also likely to move away from the Boissy d 'Anglas headquarters of Jeanne Lanvin in 1889 before moving to the Levallois area in the suburbs of Paris to cut costs. I am afraid that it will be more difficult to reawaken people's sense of Lanvin.

    This also marks Lanvin becoming "Sleeping Beauty" again, but I wonder if there will be a designer like Alber Elbaz to wake her up this time.

    However, for Lanvin, the new boss may be more urgent than the new designer.

    For France's first-rate luxury brands, which once tied up with Gucci and Louis Vuitton, the situation is almost equivalent to the fall of cliff style.

    Conversion style is not the fatal problem of Lanvin at present. As the two creative director of Lanvin complains, there is a conflict and conceptual gap between them and Lanvin's current president Wang Xiaolan and the conservative board of directors.

    Wang Xiaolan, 75, is also regarded as a "dictator". He is reluctant to make any investment behavior no matter in the expansion of retail channels, or in the reshaping and marketing of brand image.

    Not only is it reluctant to invest more, it also refuses to allow the Swiss Bartel family, which has the remaining 25% stake, to increase its holdings so as not to dilute her stake.

    According to sources, Mayhoola for Investments SPC first expressed its willingness to invest in Lanvin in 2016, allegedly quoted 500 million euros, but was rejected by Wang Xiaolan.

    At the end of January this year, the market again pmitted the sale of Lanvin to Mayhoola for Investments SPC, but it has always been a stumbling block for sale.

    Unwilling to accept acquisitions, unwilling to invest more money for the brand, and unwilling to do so, lack of effective business strategy and investment led to stagnation of the company's performance.

    In the luxury industry, even if there is money, it is difficult to compete with the luxury group and big brands that are rich in resources and well connected. Besides, Lanvin has both general strength and no market appeal.

    In short, Lanvin is at the lowest level in history. Olivier Lapidus seems to have been placed in the hope of reforming Lanvin, but the main reason for the decline of Lanvin is the divergence of internal management and the conservative nature of Wang Xiaolan.

    If the brand leader's strategy is to do nothing, the fate of the brand leader will almost be forgotten by the new generation of consumers.

    More interesting reports, please pay attention to the world clothing shoes and hats net.

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