How Do Fashion Designers Defend Their Heritage?

According to the world clothing shoes and hats net, in 1985, the Beijing Chinese Art Museum held the first fashion in China.

Exhibition of personal works.

The design of the multicolored and varied styles contrasts sharply with that of the people at that time. The audience is also full of whispers.

The designer's doubts about the exhibition in the art gallery.

The person who enjoys this honor is Yves Saint Laurent.

The exhibition comes from a retrospective review of its personal works held two years ago in Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. It is the first time that the museum has held an exhibition for a living fashion designer.

Therefore, not only in China, which has just started reform and opening up, even the United States is also questioning the fact that Saint Laurent himself has made remarkable achievements and seems to have failed to reach the same level as the artists in Metropolitan Museum of Art.

In any case, Saint Laurent has gained a lot of publicity and exposure from this tour, and the identity of its fashion designer has been given more extra value.

The first smoking suit that came out in 1966

Saint Laurent's incommunicative character means that he can not take the initiative in planning such projects.

One of the players behind the scenes is his partner, Pierre Berg e, co founder of Yves Saint Laurent fashion house.

Berg AI, who died in September this year, was very good at using all kinds of connections and government relations, and sent Saint Laurent's design works to museums and other academic halls.

In his view, the museum is the real attribution of Saint Laurent design.

Today, when fashion shows are used as marketing tools or even abused by the major brands, people can sigh Berg's brilliant vision.

Berg is a smart guy.

Unfortunately, he did not wait until his latest project was officially released.

In the past few years, under his chairmanship, two museums dedicated to Yves Saint Laurent opened in Paris and Marrakech in October this year to provide a new channel for the public to understand the life and deeds of a fashion designer.

Both museums have the classic design of Saint Laurent as a collection and have a large footprint and magnificent appearance, but the exhibition angle and emphasis are slightly different. The museums in Paris focus more on the designer's fashion design and his contribution to the fashion history. The museums in Marrakech focus on the cultural tradition of the city and even the country and the designers.

The Marrakech Yves Saint Laurent Museum, designed by Studio KO, was unveiled in October. The first visit to the city since 1960s, Saint Laurent will soon be regarded as the first place to seek inspiration.

"We hope that the museums in Marrakech are more like a cultural center," said Bj o RN Dahlstr o m, curator of the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Marrakech. "Fashion is important, but we want to show the influence of this city, especially its culture and tradition, on Saint Laurent.

Saint Laurent and Berg e fell in love with her first visit to Marrakech in the 60s of last century.

Before the new series is created every year, designers will return to this area for inspiration.

The museum's first exhibition was dedicated to the local artist Jacques Majorelle, whose home just happened to be adjacent to the site of the museum, which was jointly funded by Saint Laurent and Berg two.

{page_break}

The site of the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris is the headquarters of the early fashion house.

In 2002, Saint Laurent announced its retirement and completely stopped the high-end custom business of the fashion house. It was also pformed into a "Pierre Berg Yves Saint Laurent foundation", which is dedicated to collecting and inducing all the archival documents of the designer, and organizing publicity, lectures and other activities to publicize them.

The foundation has a total of over 4000 pieces of Saint Laurent's advanced custom design, which is the most complete single designer archive in the world.

The completeness of the Saint Laurent archive is due to the fact that the fashion house has been deliberately keeping all kinds of information about the fashion series since its inception.

You know, the rest of the fashion houses had never had the idea of building brand files, and even more, Coco Chanel had deliberately destroyed some of the Chanel fashion houses before they died.

Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Marceau Avenue, Paris

"Nowadays, many fashion houses will try to buy back the works they left behind. This is a wealth that can be constantly endowed with new value and reuse.

Kerry Taylor, a London based auctioneer.

The Kerry Taylor Auctions she runs is the only auction house in the world that specializes in classic antique fashion.

"Behind this is more marketing ideas driving.

Of course, some brands are not so fast.

For example, the archive of Alexander McQueen was not established until 2011 when the exhibition was ready for Metropolitan Museum of Art.

"

"When I was a curator in the 80s of last century, I often faced this problem: most of the fashion houses did not have their own complete archives. Therefore, for every exhibition, we could borrow clothes from museums and private buyers all over the world.

"French fashion curator Florence M u ller said.

The retrospective of her 2008 Yves Saint Laurent in Montreal Museum of Fine Arts and the little palace in Paris in 2010 was the two most spectacular exhibitions of the designer. Almost all the exhibits were directly from the brand foundation.

This naturally provided great convenience for curatorial exhibitions.

"My assistant later helped Chanel and Dior reorganize their files, and then, whether it was a brand with historical deposits, or only about 10 years old young brands were doing so.

"M ller added.

The famous Mondrian skirt

Since 1990s, Salvatore Ferragamo, Gucci, Dior and other brands have set up their own fashion museums, adding new hot topics for the growing trend of fashion and Museology.

But unlike the rest of the brand, the Yves Saint Laurent museum is not directly related to the Saint Laurent brand that people can buy in stores.

Rather than a brand Museum, it is rated as a personal museum. All the plans are centered on Yves Saint Laurent, and have nothing to do with the designers who inherit their legacy.

In 1999, Gucci group (today's Kering group) bought the Yves Saint Laurent brand clothing line, and appointed Tom Ford as the new designer.

After that, Stefano Pilati, Hedi Slimane and Anthony Vaccarello have been appointed as brand creative directors, adding their own footnotes to the history of brand development.

Their contribution and filling to Saint Laurent will not be reflected in the new Yves Saint Laurent Museum. It also reflects the relationship between Saint Laurent and Berg Yves and Yves Saint Laurent: even though two people have published positive or negative evaluations on designers who are in charge of fashion house, they have no direct influence on the behavior of the group for the designer appointed by the brand.

"People will be confused, but actually we are talking about two things: one is Yves Saint Laurent, the commercial brand of Kering group; the other is the Yves Saint Laurent Museum, which is a non-profit organization dominated by the designer foundation.

The latter is just to promote the spiritual legacy of Saint Laurent himself.

"Dahlstr m said.

But he also disclosed that there is still a close communication between the two: the current brand creative director Vaccarello has quietly visited two institutions before the museum's official opening, and said that reliving the founder's old works has a great impact on his new series of creation.

Since its establishment in 2002, the Pierre Berg Yves Saint Laurent foundation has organized dozens of exhibitions around the world, covering designer's advanced customization, clothing and fragrance products, as well as the theatre, art and culture that they loved before.

M ller suggests that her latest curatorial project will continue to be related to this great designer. She just planned the "Yves Saint Laurent:The Perfection of Style" Exhibition for the Seattle Museum of art just a few months ago.

"There are still many stories to be discovered about Saint Laurent.

The future curators do not have to worry about the exhaustion of many past exhibitions.

"M ller said.

More interesting reports, please pay attention to the world clothing shoes and hats net.