Why Do Consumers Nowadays Prefer To Buy Par Line Brands?
Back to the past ten years ago that luxury consumption had not yet fully moved to the mass market, large luxury brands and fashion brands developed a number of sub lines to maximize their income to expand consumer groups. Once red is the Emporio Armani, D &G and Marc by Marc Jacobs and other sub line brands, which maintained a fashionable style and lower prices, becoming the key to enhance the visibility of the major brands, and won a large number of young consumers.
But with fashion retail market With the intensification of the shock and the rise of social media, luxury brands who once had specific loyal customers were forced to return to the same starting line with all brands, while the next generation of consumers came from around the world.
Now the sub line brands are dominant. Middle end market It faces such threats as Michael Kors and Tory Burch. Luca Solca, director of Exane BNP Paris bank, has said that now consumers have more choices, and the products that independent designers cooperate with large retailers are constantly emerging. The status of sub line brands is facing severe challenges.
Under all kinds of pressure, Prada group chose to relocate Miu Miu, while Missoni reclaimed M Missoni's management rights from the Valentino fashion group. Other fashion brands choose a more radical way to shut down or merge sub lines, such as Kate Spade has closed its Kate Spade Saturday and Jack Spade two sub cards.
At the moment when young consumers dominate the fashion discourse, a number of new luxury brand sub lines that combine street style and youth subculture are showing new vitality. At the same time, they also arouse the fashion industry's thinking on how to improve the auxiliary line to adapt to the new market changes.
After joining CALVIN KLEIN two years later, creative director Raf Simons at least let some people mention CALVIN KLEIN, the first impression that comes to mind is no longer just those people who are keen to show off.
It can be no exaggeration to say that Raf Simons has brought about radical changes to CALVIN KLEIN.
The first brand invited to design the album cover for New Order and Joy Division is Peter Saville, who replaces the brand Logo (all the lowercase letters are capitalized, the lines are slightly thickened, all alphabet heads, Jue Qiping), and the new Logo looks more neat, concise and fashionable. CALVIN KLEIN The official used the "return of the original spirit of the brand" to describe the Logo after the transformation.
Secondly, the original brand Calvin Klein Collection has been renamed as CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC, but the change in design style is more thorough than renamed. If the former Calvin Klein Collection represents the elegant and mature American middle class, then the Raf Raf Simons is just like playing the "youth needle", not only becoming younger, but also more Fashionable And interesting.
In addition, the CALVIN KLEIN BY APPOINTMENT, which provides customized services, has been set up. More art projects have been launched (including Andy Warhol, Sterling Ruby, Red Hook Labs), and the new generation of the two generation, such as the Red, the family, the star, the Chinese and the Chinese, have been interpreted.
All these changes in the past two years have been carried out in a very intense way, which is basically the reshaping of the old American brand. But the relative price of the branch line CALVIN KLEIN JEANS is just looking for traffic KOL to wrap up the overall image, the design aspect is difficult to find the traces of Raf Simons, which is obviously not enough for the budget Raf fans. Perhaps this is part of the demand, so the new branch line CALVIN KLEIN JEANS EST. 1978 between parity CALVIN KLEIN JEANS and CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC is formally born.
You need to focus on this new branch line: the original Raf Simons design, combined with the brand American gene and the next generation youth street culture, and the price is much cheaper than the advanced clothing.
From the perspective of style, this series of printing not only has the Brooke Shields (Christa Brooke Shields) 1980's sexy blockbuster shot for Calvin Klein Jeans, but also has the classic moment of the brand, the logo of the stars and stripes, the western style, the cowboy and horse, barn and other iconic American styles. At the same time, the design is not only integrated into the aesthetic system of Raf Simons, but also fits the current most Hype street youth's dress habits.
Even when people saw this design, they thought of the street brand Supreme's single product. Raf Simons incorporated the printed and Logo elements of the young generation into its own design. With the price of the people, it was believed that it would be easier to stimulate people's consumption desire.
It seems to be a new choice, but similar operations are not new in fashion circles. This kind of price line with high reduction degree for the mainline is traceable in various brands' curriculum vitae.
Throughout the whole Fashion industry Some of the exploded parity branches even surpass the main line.
After many years of fire, CdG PLAY, which is still undiminished momentum, says that it is the sales king of Wakubo Rei's fashion empire. It is not too much. The iconic bright eyed peach shaped design has been popular for many years. It can be described as the "evergreen tree" of the tidal current circle. It is still the sales volume of the Comme des Gar ons ons group with its new color matching and slightly altered pattern position or typesetting method. Consumers are not just ordinary people, but fashion trend practitioners are hard to refuse.
The reason is very simple. Wakubo Rei's fame, highly recognizable pattern, many stars' blessing and easy to wear style are the most important ones that are easier to start with.
Secondly, the brand new ESSENTIALS launched by Jerry Lorenzo in the past few days, though Jerry herself said it was not a branch line of FEAR OF GOD, however, no matter from which point of view, this brand has become the same character as the branch line in everyone's eyes. Not only does it maintain the design sense of the main line FEAR OF GOD, but also focuses on young consumers' preference for basic everyday clothes, striking and revealing the word "ESSENTIALS" and the price of being approachable, so it is no surprise that the queuing army that attracted nearly 1000 people on the day of the sale was fast SOLD OUT. This can not help but remind people before the Jerry Lorenzo and PacSun presented the branch line F.O.G, it seems that just changed a name?
Take a look at this geometric package. The official name is BAOBAO. Although you may not have heard of it, it is not clear where it came from or what brand it is, but it is definitely a familiar product. This series is the branch line BAO BAO of Japanese fashion brand ISSEY MIYAKE. Like Comme des Gar ons, ISSEY MIYAKE has a lot of different branches in addition to the main line, including BAOBAO, PLEATS PLEASE, HOMME PLISS, PLEASE, and so on. Of course, the most famous and best seller is the absolute leader.
As time goes on, the street style has not yet occupied the fashion circle a few years ago. AVANT-GARDE is the absolute king. In the dark brand of the sudden rise, Rick Owens is the leader. However, the main line of Rick Owens has strong Gothic style. Not daily and high priced become the main factors of "scare away" many consumers. So the DRKSHDW with the same design style, more practical style, daily price and parity has come into being. The reason why people will spend DRKSHDW is not only the parity, the title of Rick Owens, but also the relationship between them.
In fact, whether it's the 11 by Boris Bidjan Saberi or MADSTORE before, or the recently launched Virgil Abloh Abloh, Off-White Off-White for ALL ALL series, which can be bought at the main line 1/4 price, is all the same reason. They are often easier to be compared with the mainline, some of which are even more amazing.
So what is the meaning of the parity branch line?
Whether it is the CALVIN KLEIN JEANS EST. 1978 mentioned above, or PLAY, BAOBAO and ESSENTIALS, it is using the relatively low price and young style to occupy the young market and expand the audience of the brand.
In the main line of CALVIN KLEIN, although Raf Simons has already injected more fashionable DNA into the brand, it still can not completely shake off the upper and the elite side of the brand's overall style. Whether it is a sophisticated evening dress or a well tailored suit, it will be out of place in ordinary occasions, let alone the young people who have been mixed up in the streets. Besides, the high price barrier will naturally turn a large number of people out of the door. The main consumption target is still concentrated in the upper class of fashion Pyramid. After all, the direct consumption group and the more extensive young market body that Raf Simons has introduced can not be mentioned in the same breath.
At the same time, in the Internet era, any brand does not want to miss the young generation who knows how to spontaneously propagate and create the biggest influence. Therefore, how to "please" the group becomes the focus of all brand work. I think that from the trend of designers who know the taste of young people in old fashion houses, we can see that whether Louis Vuitton's Virgil Abloh, BALENCIAGA's Demna Gvasalia or Dior Kim Jones, apart from design, they are masters of the needs of the younger generation.
Secondly, regardless of reputation and reputation, the ultimate goal is the actual sales figures. Since the mainline is too expensive, it will discourage most people. It is a good choice to launch a relatively cheap series to open up downstream markets. Moreover, the par price line often stimulates people's desire for consumption. The key is that it can paralyze the needs of many people at the same time. Once they can afford to spend, many people rush to settle accounts with those names.
If the price is close, the cheaper branch line can also strike some "plagiarism" styles of fast fashion brands to a certain extent. We know that the fast fashion brands, led by H&M, Zara and Topshop, often draw lessons from the latest design of the first line brand, and gain a lot of revenue with time difference and high cost performance. Once there is a pure line and lower price branch line design, it will inevitably disperse the consumption power of the consumers who are originally part of fast fashion. After all, "borrowing" is a reference, and it will never compare with the brand name of the same line.
Does the branch brand look so good that it always makes you willing to take out your wallet? But at the same time, do you seriously think about the trap of consumerism behind your checkout? Do you easily fall into this trap?
To put it simply, consumerism is much more about buying more goods and services. This concept has developed until now. We will find that when people consume, "need", "inappropriate" and "good looks" are not the main considerations. New products, Logo, limits, prices and flaunts are the main motivations for achieving consumption. For example, the more famous, more expensive commodity and cooperation series, and the popular Logo style are all enduring because of the popularity of consumerism. The important reasons for this situation include the rapid growth of social economy and the increasing amount of money that people use to buy goods. At the same time, social networking is becoming more and more serious.
The rapid economic growth has led to more income, so many people have begun to pursue a broader identity and social status after solving the problem of food and clothing. At this time, it is a general trend to buy products that can show their identity with increasing income. What is the best way to show identity and status? In the past, the "top class" consumption of designer clothes became the most direct choice. Because these clothes are born with the "attention" attribute, anyone who wears them will be more likely to attract the attention of others.
Of course, this show is also spreading from reality to the Internet world due to the development of social networking. Although we can communicate with each other through the Internet, we can communicate with each other on the ground, but at this time, text, pictures and videos become the window for others to understand you, and the latter two are more intuitive. Even though facial features and appearance can be modified by PS and Mito software, ordinary people still can not reach through simple post processing, so the demand for famous brand clothes is also more huge. Drying clothes, drying shoes and drying bags has become the daily operation of most people in social networking.
For front-line brands, the introduction of branch brands to meet more people's Consumerism tendency, and at the same time earn full pot.
Looking back at consumers, though you can say that people wear brand goods may just follow their personal pursuit of beauty, but I have to admit that there are some deviations now. It seems that the psychology of "wearing" in order to dress for others is becoming more and more common. No wonder there are endless series of different brands of cards. No matter what kind of person they are, people will be willing to take all of them. Under consumerism, people nowadays do not care much about the essence.
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