New York Fashion Week: More Opportunities For Designers, Between Peak And Trough
Compared with the fashion week in Europe, the American fashion industry is probably advocating "natural selection".
After all, it is a hot spot of capitalism and entrepreneurship.
But money is not everything.
In the fashion week of New York this season, some brands do not have enough funds. For example, Oscar de la Renta, if you can sit on the resources of luxury enterprise groups, you should do better.
Some brands are afraid of too much money. For example, Coach, magnificent and magnificent, like the press conference of the end of the day, the "Millennium generation" favorite advertising stars gather in the front row, but it is hard to make up for the fact that the products are not satisfactory.
This year, the 50th anniversary Ralph Lauren was set up. At the Central Park conference, the magic of money was really displayed.
But if the series fails, the press conference will not be so well received.
It remains to be seen whether Coach, a poor seller in recent years, can return to its peak in the late 1980s and early 90s, but this is a good start.
In Calvin Klein, Raf Simons uses wrinkled flowers.
Dress
And tearing.
Pleated skirt
We held a conference that we must not miss.
Of course, there are a lot of attractions beyond design.
This is another exploration of Simons's calm and dangerous undercurrent of American society. He sent models to the scarlet carpet, wet their hair, and carefully arranged the starry rows of distinguished guests to watch the classic scenes of the big screen playing the big white shark (Jaws).
The Belgian designer is not only content, but also a lively fashion.
For another fashion occasion in New York fashion week, Marc Jacobs, the embarrassed American fashion designer, once again chose to hold a press conference at the spare area of Park Avenue Arsenal.
Just this time, the designer changed the cheap metal chairs of previous seasons to plexiglass.
In many ways, this season's release is like crossing another space, because the opening of this conference on Wednesday is a bit absurd.
The audience waited for almost 1.5 hours, and several European editors could hardly wait to start the red eye flight. Many people jumped into taxis for the New York Naval Shipyard in Broolyn because Rihanna was there to show the latest Fenty underwear series.
Finally, the chosen audience was taken to Marc Jacobs's dream Wonderland, full of 3D crystal collar and large rose cluster.
Just Jacobs's clothes on the fashion flyover are far more important than the shops, and in pure fashion, this kind of magic is no longer effective.
Just Jacobs's clothes on the fashion flyover are far more important than the shops, and in pure fashion, this kind of magic is no longer effective.
Michael Kors this time there is no moth but it may be too mild.
The atmosphere of Malibu Beach Club is somewhat uniform in Kors.
Impact is there, but it is not enough to produce real impact.
The degree of Tom Ford is similar.
Where is the problem? Proenza Schouler is not so competitive this season, or it will mark the beginning of a new era.
The fashionable and bright wrinkle tannin is cool, and should be sold well. But is this the direction of the brand's future? This is not only a matter of resources, but also a brand's pure will.
Designers that people really want to see are no longer the main designers.
On the contrary, people's eyes are closely following Pyer Moss, Eckhaus Latta, Telfar and Vaquera.
These community led fashion brands can really write sincere cultural commentary.
Starting on Monday, Creatures of the Wind, the designer of Christopher Peters, unveiled his first neutral fashion series CDLM, the poet and actress at the gallery.
Artist John Giorno
You can also see the show on the stage (you can see that many of these conferences are being selected by Midland's Walter Pearce and Rachel Chandler).
According to BoF's special correspondent Chantal Fernandez, Rihanna has achieved "Vitoria's secret s Secret" achievement, but never realized in Fenty, by virtue of its ethnic lineage and diverse lineup models.
Then there's Sies Marjan.
Brand designer Sander Lak
It's really good looking.
He proved his talent this season, greatly reducing the color (one of the early signs of the brand) and simply following his heart.
The vitality of the brand will certainly be reproduced in the future, but through these clothes of this season, he conveys such a rich feeling (sadness, loss, peace) that he really wonders how he will develop next.
Of course, Lak, after all, has solid financial support and is willing to let him develop Sies Marjan at a reasonable speed.
Even so, the road ahead will not be easy, but the new designers will be the same.
At least they have a chance to try it, and only in the US.
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